Hello.
I'm Noguchi from CASANOVA&CO.
Currently, our store is in the midst of IRENISA's LIMITED STORE.
We are very grateful that so many people visit us every day.
Thank you very much.
There are some IRENISA items I'd like to introduce, but I'll save that for later. Today, I'd like to talk about daisuke tanabe's clothes.
It's already been half a year since the pre-order event held at the store in March of this year.
As those who saw it at the time would have felt, the quality was incredibly robust, unbelievable for a brand in its third season.
The toughness of its craftsmanship.
The depth and clarity of the collection's theme.
And, let's not forget the appearance of the clothes themselves.
Everything from Tanabe-san's upbringing to his career leading up to today is connected to daisuke tanabe.
Six months ago in March, after the first day of the pre-order event at the store, Tanabe-san and I had a small celebration at a izakaya that felt like a popular pub.
We both enjoy drinking, and being close in age, our conversation flowed very smoothly.
More than just flowing, I was so amazed by the breadth and depth of Tanabe-san's knowledge, his excellent control in retrieving it appropriately from his mind, and the speed at which he did it, that I became engrossed in drawing out his stories.
He talked about when he was wandering America as a teenager and coincidentally saw Tyler, The Creator.
He talked about solving practice problems for Kyoto University while queuing for Supreme after returning to Japan.
He talked about job hunting while attending Kyoto University.
He talked about great photographers for great brands.
He talked about contemporary art.
He covered an unbelievably wide range of topics, connecting them in his own way as he spoke.
While I only vaguely understood that there was a connection there, I felt like I somewhat grasped the underlying structure behind Tanabe-san's creations.
There is aspiderweb-like network expanding in his brain.
And it possesses incredible breadth, depth, and density.
And, a signal of consciousness can freely and incredibly swiftly traverse through it.
In short, he's amazing. (In a good way, of course.)
The theme of the 25AW season collection by the incredible Tanabe-san is "syvash."
The collection's theme is "syvash," a lake in Ukraine also known as "the Sea of Corruption."
For more details, please read the blog where I tried my best to break it down half a year ago.
To summarize it very simply:
・"Syvash," a real lake in Ukraine with a chaotic ecosystem, also known as the "Sea of Corruption."
・The "Sea of Corruption" from "Nausicaä of the Valley of the Wind," which holds the key to coexistence between humanity and nature.
・The current war between Ukraine and Russia.
・The fact that the story of Nausicaä takes place after a great war.
Keywords such as "people," "nature," and "war" can be deciphered from "syvash."
And based on such themes, daisuke tanabe constructs his collections by developing fabrics and designing patterns.
He intricately weaves together well-known masterpieces and problems facing modern society, not simply ending with "this is cool" or "amazing clothes," but rather posing questions to the wearer.
As a collection brand, they are truly committed to their role in society.
I apologize for the long preamble, but I would like to introduce a jacket from daisuke tanabe's "syvash" collection, featuring the highest density Ventile as mentioned in the title.
daisuke tanabe
asbel/ventile
color _ olive
size _ 2,3
This is the jacket.
Although I haven't taken close-ups of the fabric, theasbel used here is the highest density Ventile cotton.
It's apparently called "L28" in Ventile's product numbers.
When people hear "Ventile," many simply imagine high-density cotton waterproof fabric, but apparently, there are actually quite a few types.
Indeed, daisuke tanabe sometimes uses Ventile other than L28, but this L28 is the highest density and most expensive from Ventile.
(Incidentally, the second most expensive Ventile is apparently the lightest and thinnest...)
It seems that it's rarely used by fashion brands, and Ventile can only provide the olive color used by daisuke tanabe and orange, apparently.
In other words, military olive and rescue orange.
It's only intended for super military applications, lol.
That's why general circulation is extremely limited, and Mr. Tanabe directly contacted Ventile to use this L28.
The people Mr. Tanabe takes action with are not limited to Japan.
That's why he's able to acquire such fabrics himself and create these kinds of clothes.
What's distinctive about this asbel is the large flap extending from the right chest to the back.
This detail is an expanded interpretation of the gun flap and umbrella yoke seen in trench coats and similar garments.
I think this is an important design that also connects to the context of the season's theme.
When standing, the neck is high enough to cover the chin.
There's a zipper inside the gun flap, but the neck fastens with snaps.
The zipper is a riri zipper.
This zipper isn't a normal riri.
Apparently, riri custom-makes them with this pull tab size, matte finish, and no logo on the pull tab.
Therefore, most of daisuke tanabe's zippers are of this type.
Between Ventile and riri, he's working too directly, lol.
The waistband and pocket openings are made of Italian vegetable-tanned goat leather.
This part, too, probably highlights the imbalance between artificial and natural elements.
This is what it looks like worn.
Due to the stiffness of the highest-density Ventile, the oversized gun flap creates an unusual silhouette.
This pocket is also with vegetable-tanned goat leather.
Since the flap isn't sewn down at the right side seam, access to the right pocket is surprisingly good.
Look, just like this.
Personally, I like to wear it with only the neck snaps fastened.
The way the Ventile stands up and falls is exquisite.
As I've said many times, because it's the highest density L28, the outline of the clothes comes out extremely sharply.
The idea is to pair sharp Ventile with soft garments like smooth fabrics or brushed lining.
Through keywords like war and "Sea of Corruption," the collection focuses on the contrast between natural and artificial objects, so it might offer an opportunity to find beauty in imbalance.
I hope that through daisuke tanabe, you can feel the richness of clothing and also a stronger awareness of modern societal issues.
Please take a look.