Yamauchi "Mud-dyed docking coat"

Today, I'd like to introduce you to something amazing.

Some of you who have seen the "Yamauchi" collection in advance may know it, but it is one of the most impressive in the brand's 10-year history.

These are clothes with an overwhelming aura.

There is something called a 3-way docking coat that first appeared a few years ago and is a "two-in-one" style.

Both of the two pieces are first-class products, and when the first-class outerwear is layered and docked together, it becomes a super complete coat.

In the past, there have been people who have seen and owned each item in our store, and this time, in the brand's collection, they have appeared in a transcendental form.

That is "mud dyeing".

A dyeing technique called "mud dyeing" that is said to have existed for more than 1,300 years and is said to be "black" from ancient Japan.

This is the dyeing method used for Oshima Tsumugi, which is said to be one of the world's three major textiles.

It is not a pure chemical black, but a "traditional Japanese black" with a unique brown hue.

We use fabrics made at a dyeing factory called Higo Dyeing, which has been operating in Amami Oshima for 50 years.

However, the fact that this coat is mud-dyed with its "fabric" is not an ultra-thin coat.

The reason is that the total number of parts for the coat is about 100.

Each piece of clothing is made up of various parts, such as the body, sleeves, and endpapers.

However, there are very few other clothes in this world that have nearly 100 parts.

If I remember correctly, Mr. Yamauchi said there were 93 parts, right? ?

That was the case with the model that came out a few years ago, so maybe there are more of them now.

Generally speaking, coats have the most parts of all clothing, but I think even the most complex pieces have about 30 parts.

And because it's Yamauchi's clothes, it's not like they're adding additional details.

In order to create this coat, all the necessary details were gathered, resulting in a total of nearly 100 parts.

Well, in my opinion, it's a brand that makes the world's most detailed clothes.

There are many brands in the world that compete with specs, so I personally think it's not a good idea to overstate the specs on clothes, but Yamauchi's coat this time is on a different level.

That's no longer the case.

If you get down to the specs, you'll end up with something that no one else can match.

And when it becomes a garment that has been designed and shaped in such detail and over a long period of time, it is truly a sight to behold.

An incredible coat has been completed.


Cotton double cloth/3way military coat




*size2 SOLD OUT


At our store, we had one pair each in size 2 and size 3, but since we had a customer who had already purchased size 2 before introducing it on this blog, we only have size 3 in stock.

The photo is of size 3.

At our store, we currently have two types of Yamauchi clothing that are not posted on our blog or Instagram: a hybrid cotton cloth mountain coat and a Yaksheep pile zip jacket. I hope to be able to introduce it again later.

And this time's mud-dyed docking coat.

When separated...


The outer material is a ``liner'' made by mud-dying the original fabric that Mr. Yamauchi of Yamauchi has been making.

And this is the outside.

Like the liner, this is also a mud-dyed original fabric, and the body, sleeves, hood, cuffs, endpapers, etc. are all made with the same mud-dye.

As mentioned earlier, each piece is unique and can be used as an outer layer with incredible design.

First, the liner.

The liner is a short length when worn alone, so I think it's a garment that allows you to move around easily.

The raglan sleeves allow for easy movement, and the body and lining of the hood are made from a cupro and alpaca blend fabric made by WATANABE TEXTILE in Yamanashi Prefecture.

One, the fabric used is eye-catching because of its characteristic bumpy texture.

Even though it's all the same mud dyeing, the contrast is great depending on the material, and it looks amazing.

This mud dye is dyed multiple times to achieve a deep color, so I think it is a fairly dark color among mud dyes.

Well, no matter where you look, the stitching is incredibly detailed, and here too.


This used to be a feature of the brand, but it involved putting cotton fabric on top of the wool rib base to match the outer material, and stitching each groove in the ribs one by one. Specifications for special moves.

When you look at parts like this, I think it's obvious at a glance what kind of clothes Yamauchi is making.

These ribs are amazing.

When you wear it, you can feel that the ribs feel completely different against your skin, and that the ribs are clearly stronger.

I think this is where you will definitely feel the benefits when wearing it.

This is the back.

As mentioned earlier, these are cupra and alpaca boas.

I think you can get an idea of ​​the level of this "liner" just by looking at this photo.

On the front end of the back side, there is a pocket with both beaded edges, but even the beaded edges are made of different fabrics on the right and left sides.

Even though it's called patchwork, it feels like if you made it normally, you'd end up using the same fabric, but that's not the case. Yamauchi.

In the first place, I asked Mr. Yamauchi about the total production numbers for this coat, and each one is a slightly different patchwork.

In other words, each piece of fabric is carefully determined to determine where it will be used on the coat, and each piece is hand-cut for each piece.

It's not a random usage.

Therefore, I think it would be a good idea to think of each coat, which exists in small numbers across the country, as having its own individuality.

And this is the outside.

When wearing the aforementioned liner alone, the inside is made of alpaca boa, so I think it will be useful in fall and winter.

On the other hand, the lining of this coat is cotton polyester.

The brand always uses this fabric as a lining, so I think it would be good for spring and fall when worn alone.

If you dock the second pair, you'll have no enemies in the middle of winter.

It's quite heavy and comfortable to wear, but even those who are sensitive to cold can use it in the middle of winter.

The outer coat is also not bulky.

The base looks like a mod coat, so that alone is quite complicated.

In addition, Yamauchi's detailed design.

This time's docking coat, like the brand's previous ones, was sewn by Koichi Narikiyo, who lives in Fukuoka Prefecture, and apparently he was amazing at it. lol

It took days and days to complete one piece.

The cutting takes a tremendous amount of time, and the sewing is not average.

And this time it's mud dyed.

This "mud dyeing with fabric" seems to have troubled even Mr. Narukiyo, who is a super expert in sewing.

The reason for this is that as you sew, the needle hole becomes clogged with mud.

Yamauchi's clothes have many stitches, and Yamauchi has detailed specifications for the pitch of the hands.

As a result, even after sewing for a short time, "mud" gradually accumulated in the needle hole of the sewing machine, and the thread tension needed to sew neatly became disrupted.

In Yamauchi's clothes, irregular stitching is not allowed.

Therefore, Mr. Narukiyo continued to sew with new needles, taking time, effort, and care.

Well, this coat is overflowing with the quality of that "face-to-face work".

Although they are clothes, I think they have a special aura that goes beyond the framework of clothes.

I personally believe that a life that uses things like this as a "tool" is very precious.

The hood also has a number of parts that can be switched, so it can stand on its own.

The neck also has reinforced stitching.

The front flap pockets are all made of slightly different fabrics.

Straight places are straight and pointy places are sharp.

The edges of all the details stand out.

Flap pocket.

I think this flap pocket is also the "world's finest flap."

Do you understand?

This overlap.

There is another flap inside the flap.

The two flaps also have lining fabric sewn into them called endpapers.

Plus, there's a neat interlining on the inside that you can't see.

In other words, a total of 6 pieces of fabric are used just for the flap pockets.

Pockets are something you put things inside and use, right?

Every time you put something in or take it out, or put your hand in and take it out, stress is placed on the pocket flap.

So, anyway, this is Yamauchi's specification to make it durable.

The inside is also complicated.

Two pieces are included at the front edge: a zipper and a buffalo button to fasten the front of the coat.

The buttonholes are diagonally opened to ensure smooth button opening and closing.

The fastener is a double zip specification.

Four small force buttons visible on the left side of the zipper in the photo.

Dock the liner and coat with these four buttons.

There are a total of 8 liners and coats, 4 each on the left and right front edges.

It is designed to secure the docking with a total of 10 buttons, including two on the hood.

Well, I think you'll understand the structure once you see the actual product.

Front edge of left side.

Front edge of right side.

This has a buttonhole for docking with the liner.



A fishtail that splits perfectly.

And there is something important about this docking coat.

it is,,,,

This means that there is no backstitching.

This is a lie. That's what I think.

Exactly Yamauchi.

Among the most important pieces in Yamauchi's collection, there is almost no standard for backstitching at the beginning and end of sewing to prevent the sewing thread from fraying.

There's only one reason.

If you backstitch, the stitches will become double.

Yamauchi, a brand that focuses on sewing, places great importance on things like this.

Therefore, at the beginning and end of sewing, I pull the thread out from the back of the fabric and tie it by hand on the invisible back side.

This is a "divine trick".

By doing so, the fabric and the sewing area will look even more beautiful and the details will stand out.

Since this is a brand that values ​​these things, I believe that there is something that ``dwells'' in the clothes.

I think that because we are a brand that creates clothes in a way that no one else can, we are able to create clothes that can be realized.

Clothes like this are sure to move people's hearts and impress them.

I think clothes like this are wonderful.

the back of the coat.

The back is also amazing.

Our store currently only has size 3 in stock.

The price is also reasonable, so I think it will feel quite heavy when you wear it.

This weight is necessary for this coat. Mr. Yamauchi said.

The size feels like a 3, which is a little larger.

It's like the size 4 when I was selling it as a brand before.

It's a coat that has a lot of weight, but after many years of wear, it has undergone a truly special change, and the cotton and cotton linen fabrics have become more faded.

Of course, people will enjoy the change in comfort and appearance.

Out of all the coats we have handled so far, I think this is the ultimate garment, both from the production stage and from the complexity of the overall specifications.

However, because of this, I believe that those who own it will be able to feel the wonders of making these kinds of clothes and the things that ``dwell'' within them.

Mr. Yamauchi sewed the samples himself over a period of five days, and after further refining them, Mr. Narukiyo sewed the entire garment for the final product.

The coat is made with the traditional craft of mud dyeing by Higo Dose and the skills of the seamstresses.

I don't think you will come across anything like this very often in your life.

I would be happy if anyone who likes it could see it.

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