Yamauchi "Mud Dyed"

Mountain Fold Wallet order event with PETROSOLAUM held from the other day.

This is a wallet made by a brand, and I would like to thank everyone who ordered it.

It will take a little longer than 2 months before we can deliver it, but I would be happy if you could look forward to it until it is completed.

At present, the number of wallets that can be produced from the leather we have arranged has finally reached 3 items each for D.GREEN/BLACK and BLACK, so if you are considering it, I would appreciate it if you could see it again. .

And today, I would like to introduce Yamauchi.

It's a shirt and two pants.

Both brands are doing it for the first time, but it's "mud dyeing".

of Amami Oshima.

It's not like anyone can do it anywhere, and you can't do it unless you have the know-how and the physical location of "Amami Oshima".

It is a dyeing technique that has been called "Japanese black" since ancient times.

Since it is a technique that has existed in Japan for a long time, the color and texture are completely different from chemical dyes, and along with that, the amount of time and effort required is also exceptionally different.

A tree called Sharinbai, which grows on Amami Oshima, is finely chopped, boiled for two days, and then the broth is fermented.

The broth has already become a dye, and it is called "wheel plum dyeing", but it is soaked in the dye many times, washed, dried, and repeated.

It is said that by doing so, the fabric will turn brown, but from there, it will finally enter the "mud" of Amami Oshima.

I've heard that it's related to the soil of Amami Oshima, but the "mud" contains iron, and the dark brown "wheel plum dyeing" fabric seems to contain tannin.

By reacting the tannin component and iron, the dark brown becomes blackish, and the "Japanese black" is completed.

That is the dyeing technique called "mud dyeing".

Combining this with Yamauchi's clothes creates something of considerable quality.

Let me introduce you.

Yamauchi salt-shrunk cotton linen shirt doro - 1

Yamauchi salt-shrunk cotton linen shirt doro - 2

Salted cotton linen shirt

face material _ COTTON 50%, LINEN 50%

lining material _ COTTON 55%, CUPRO 45%

color _ DORO



The brand's "Yamauchi Classic" is a salt-shrunk cotton-linen shirt that has existed as an immortal piece of clothing for many years, and has been mud-dyed for the first time.

However, it is completely different from the mud-dyed clothes that exist in the world.

This is amazing.

Yamauchi salt-shrunk cotton linen shirt doro - 3

It's mud-dyed, so it's a deep dark brown color.

And the unevenness of the color that is unique to this kind of dyeing method is still alive.

Yamauchi salt-shrunk cotton linen shirt doro - 4

Yamauchi salt-shrunk cotton linen shirt doro - 5

As you can see from the photos, this shirt has almost no visible stitches.

And if you take a closer look at the fabric, you will notice that the color of the mud dyeing and the wrinkles caused by dyeing are slightly different.

The reason is that the production process is very different from the "mud-dyed" clothes of Theory Street.

It is a shirt with "mud dyeing with fabric".

This is very important.

Normally, mud-dyed clothes are "mud-dyed products" that "almost all" exist in the world.

Therefore, there is uneven dyeing all over the clothes, puckering due to product dyeing, and worn-out twists in the fabric.

That is one of the characteristics of the texture of mud-dyed clothes.

However, as I mentioned earlier, Yamauchi's products this time are "fabric dyed".

That's why the finish of the clothes is completely different. at all.

The appearance, of course, is finished in something completely different from what the clothes emit.

However, this is a very high hurdle for many brands to produce clothes.

That's why I don't think there is any other type of clothing called "mud dyeing with fabric". As far as I know.

Furthermore, in addition to the "mud dyeing on the fabric", "salt shrinking" is done afterwards.

Yamauchi's new series has been realized after clearing a very high hurdle in terms of production.

Yamauchi salt-shrunk cotton linen shirt doro - 6

The cotton linen is mud-dyed at the fabric stage, giving it a very deep and expressive texture.

Yamauchi's "mud dyeing with fabric" production process is amazing.

First, cut the base fabric into 4m pieces.

This 4m is called "chakubun".

It is OK if you think that it is "for one wear".

In other words, it is "one suit at 4m".


This shirt uses 4m of fabric only for the outer material.

This number of 4m is not normal.

In general, a shirt is made of approximately 1.5m of fabric.

Considering that, this shirt has a lot of 2.5m.

Even just the base fabric is not normal.

Then, one by one, each piece of fabric for 4m of clothing is mud-dyed using the method described above.

That's how the completed "4m long mud-dyed" fabric was completed.

Next, salt shrinkage is applied.

This salt-shrinking process is a process in which the fabric is immersed in salt-shrinking liquid by hand, and the fabric is shrunk to give it a unique look.

In the process of "salting", you can see why this shirt uses "4m" of fabric only for the outer material.

The mud-dyed fabric before the salt-shrinking process is

It seems that the length is 4 m and the width of the fabric is 120 cm.

By applying the salt-shrinking process that it pickles by hand,

It is 3m long and shrinks to 85cm wide.

From here on it gets pretty technical, but fabric with a width of 85cm is definitely not suitable for making clothes by itself.

This is because in the process of placing the pattern on the fabric and cutting it, the convenience of taking the fabric is at an extraordinary level, and it is tremendously bad.

Then, by applying a salt-shrinking process to the fabric, we put the pattern paper for the cut parts of the clothes on one piece of fabric one by one, and cut them one by one while observing the condition of the fabric. .

This raises the hurdles of production at a level that is not edgy.

It's already far from the concept of "mass production".

further, further, in addition,

It seems that it is very difficult to sew clothes that have been mud-dyed with the fabric.

Therefore, even in the sewing process, it deviates greatly from the concept of "mass production".

The reason for this is that if you continue to sew a large number of pieces, the "mud" will accumulate in the needle hole of the sewing machine, causing the sewing thread to break and the balance between the upper and lower threads to be lost. And it becomes difficult to sew neatly.

Although it looks deep, even at the dyeing stage, it is already a lot of work, and that alone increases the cost of "mud dyeing".

However, it is for this reason that only "product mud dyeing" can exist.

Well, Yamauchi's clothes are not factory-produced.

Because it is only sewn by an individual skilled seamstress or Mizude of Fashion Izumi, who does it with a few people.

Besides, the fabric is basically cut at Yamauchi's atelier, except for the one that Narikiyo sews.

That's why I can give form to clothes that can't be realized if you think about it like this.

It is also extremely detailed and well-crafted.

Yamauchi Salt-shrunk cotton linen shirt doro-7

Sword rag opening cuffs using the switching of two sleeves.

Yamauchi salt-shrunk cotton linen shirt doro - 8

There are no stitches on the front of the back yoke or switching between two sleeves.

Yamauchi salt-shrunk cotton linen shirt doro - 9

There is no placket, and it looks very simple.

The photo is cut off in the middle, but the shape of the collar is also unique.

Yamauchi salt-shrunk cotton linen shirt doro - 10


Yamauchi salt-shrunk cotton linen shirt doro-11

And back.

This shirt is fully lined with a thin cotton cupra twill lining.

So, as a disadvantage, I can't wear it in the middle of summer.

However, I think that the moment you put your sleeves on, you can feel the tightness against your skin when you wear it.

Yamauchi salt-shrunk cotton linen shirt doro - 12


this beauty.

The collar has the same fabric as the outer material attached to the inside, and is sewn with a slight margin of about 1 mm so that it cannot be seen from the front.

The back of the placket, the switching of the lining, the inside of the cover, all of them are neatly sewn.

Yamauchi salt-shrunk cotton linen shirt doro - 13

Total back.

Yamauchi salt-shrunk cotton linen shirt doro - 14

Piping is used to connect the back of the armhole.

Yamauchi Salted cotton linen shirt doro - 15

This is the back side.

Piping is also perfect for joining two sleeves.

I've been saying this a lot so far, but this is just "more than a shirt".

As for the mud dyed items this time, "beyond the shirt".

Yamauchi Salted Cotton Linen Shirt doro - 16

There is no complaint about the processing of the back of the sword rags.

It's a dress that has been meticulously crafted down to the smallest details.

Especially for this one, I think it's much more powerful than Yamauchi's "salted cotton linen shirts" so far.

In addition, there is no "processed feeling" that could not be wiped off in the "mud-dyed" clothes that existed in the world until now.

Even though the fabric is strong, the clothes are amazing.

I think this is going to be amazing.

As you wear it, it will naturally change depending on how you use it, because it is a natural dye.

Each piece looks slightly different, so I hope you enjoy it.


Yamauchi Salted cotton linen shirt doro - 17

Yamauchi Salt-shrunk cotton linen shirt doro - 18

120/2 Super Strong Twisted Broad Cargo Pants

material_COTTON 100%

color _ DORO




Like the salt-shrinking shirt mentioned earlier, it is "mud-dyed at the fabric stage".

However, the base fabric is different.

As the name suggests, this is a 120-count two-ply yarn fabric.


"ZZ Super Twisted".


Mud dyeing is done on the fabric of "Kaneta Orimono".

"Mud dyeing with fabric" x "Kaneta textile".

This mariage.

Yamauchi salt-shrunk cotton linen shirt doro - 19

The raw material is Supima 100 cotton.

As for the touch of the fabric, it feels like a shirt because it uses "ZZ super strong twist" and the 120 count yarn is double yarn.

Well, strictly speaking, it's Kaneta's broad fabric, so it's super dense, and it's a fabric that gives you a sense of security and reliability that you can't feel with normal shirt fabric.

Originally, Kaneta's fabric is a thread that has very little fluff, so in terms of wearing comfort, I think it's extremely comfortable in the summer.

I've come across several pants made from Kaneta's fabric this season, so I ordered them all.

Well, apart from Yamauchi, it's just AUBETT and Araki Yuu.

All of them are comfortable to wear in paradise in the summer.

However, it's only these pants that are mud dyed.

Yamauchi Salted cotton linen shirt doro - 20

The process up to the sewing process is the same as the shirt above.

Dyeing for each garment and hand cutting for each part.

In terms of these pants, unlike a shirt, the sewing stitches are visible on the front.

The count of sewing thread is thick as it is, but the pitch is very fine.

Yamauchi's standard is 17 stitches between 3 cm, but the pitch of the needle movement is so fine that no one else can match it.

Yamauchi salt-shrunk cotton linen shirt doro - 21

The mud-dyed fabric is impressive, but the tightly stitched stitches also stand out.

Both sides are not defeated.

Normally, when it comes to mud-dyed clothes, the only thing that comes first is the fact that they are dyed in mud, but that is not the case. Yamauchi's clothes.

I think it's amazing.

Yamauchi Salted cotton linen shirt doro - 22

There is a code in the hem.

This cord will rub against the ground if you don't squeeze it and tie it.

If you don't want to tie it, just pull it out.

In addition, hemming is also possible. I will lose the code.

Yamauchi salt-shrunk cotton linen shirt doro - 23

The back is a pocket with a button on the shoulder bead.

All the stitches are up now.

Yamauchi salt-shrunk cotton linen shirt doro - 24

From the specifications of the front opening of Yamauchi's overwhelming pants to the inside.

Amazing Kobastitch, Tengu, Endpaper.

This waist structure is completely unique to Yamauchi.

The waist area of ​​the pants is the most stressful, so it is very important to know how much you put your hand in this area.

There are many more pieces of fabric that overlap than normal pants, and the number of processes far exceeds casual pants, and even surpasses slacks.

Yamauchi's pants are made in places that can't be seen.

That's why, the moment you put it on, I think you'll immediately feel the fitting of the waist.

On top of that, Kaneta's ZZ super-strong twist fabric makes it very light and comfortable on your feet.

Yamauchi Salted cotton linen shirt doro - 25

Yamauchi Salted Cotton Linen Shirt doro - 26

In Yamauchi, the inside of the waist is a standard specification.

I don't think there are many brands that can keep doing this.

It is a specification that you can feel the real benefit of this quality after many years of use.

Especially when it comes to pants, you can expect further changes in the mud-dyed fabric as you wear it over the years.

Depending on how often you wash it, it promises to be very powerful.

Even though they are cargo pants, the cargo pockets on the sides have been removed, so even those who are hesitant about that point should have no problem.

In addition to the amazing clothes that are made, I think that the clothes will look more profound as the years go by, so please take your time and experience them for yourself.

If you like it, I would be happy if you could consider it.

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