Yamauchi short-sleeved shirt


As I've been telling you before, we're currently in the middle of a project, but today, I'd like to introduce you to Yamauchi, who was delivered.



Yamauchi's items currently being held are all one-of-a-kind, but the stock of short pants is limited, so we are out of stock.



Therefore, the size is also limited, but if the size fits, I would like you to compare the colors and patterns unique to Hakomura Shibori and choose one.



There are fewer items that are not "A", but if you look at them, I think you can feel the fierce hurdles of Mr. Yamauchi's "Standards for A".




Today, I would like to introduce a collection that has been delivered.



A short-sleeved shirt. Linen 100.



However, I think that it is completely different from the linen that everyone imagines.



This fabric is woven by Kuzuri Keori in Aichi Prefecture, and Kuzuri is a "wool fabric" weaver.




such as wool and animal hair. Along with that, the loom used is also called "Schönherl loom", which is specialized for woolen fabrics.



It is a finished linen fabric that makes full use of the loom used to weave the "woolen fabric".








Yamauchi

Schonherr Linen Short Sleeve Tailored Collar Shirt



material_LINEN 100%

color_ASH GRAY

size_2,3,4









Yamauchi

Schonherr Linen Short Sleeve Tailored Collar Shirt



material_LINEN 100%

color_BLACK

size_2,3,4




this.



As the name suggests, it is a short-sleeved shirt with a tailored collar style.



Two colors.



ASH GRAY and BLACK tinged with brown.




The size is quite spacious even in Yamauchi.



The texture of the fabric is strong, the edges of the details stand out, and the stitching is crackling, but the size balance is well balanced.







The fabric first.



As mentioned above, the fabric is 100% linen woven by Kuzuri Keori.



It's a twill weave, but in terms of organization, it's "cavalry twill".



The angle of the twill is very steep, and it is a fabric that allows you to see the structure very well.



If it is made in a cotton fabric production area, this structure is called "karze".




The warp is a 66 count single yarn.



The weft is a 75 count single yarn.



A fabric composed of single yarns for both warp and weft.



The texture of the fabric is also very characteristic of 100 linen fabric, and the touch is amazing.



This is because Aichi Prefecture, where Mr. Keori Kuzuri is located, is called the Bishu production area.




What do you mean,



After the fabric is woven, it is finished with a finishing touch.



This finishing is a very important process, and it is a process that greatly affects the finished fabric.



According to Mr. Yamauchi of Yamauchi, basically, weavers in Bishu almost always ask finishers in Bishu to do the finishing work.



In other words, the linen fabric is "finished" by a finishing shop that specializes in the finishing of wool and other woolen fabrics.




This is because in other production areas, such as Enshu, the production area of ​​cotton textiles, it is rare for the weavers in Enshu to request the finish only to finishers in the same Enshu.



It seems that depending on the finish you are aiming for, you may finish in another region, not just in the same region.



This isn't about which one is better or worse.



In other words, for this linen, a specialist in wool woven the fabric using a loom for wool, and finished it specifically for wool, from the finish that affects the texture of the fabric.



That means.



Therefore, it is completely different from the image of 100 linen fabric that everyone has.



And it's at a great level.



I think everyone likes the look and feel of this fabric.



The wind also passes.



Besides, it's not just the new condition, but I can already see the wonderful scenery waiting for me after I wear it and wash it.



It's summer, isn't it?



Wearing it, sweating it, and washing it is a very positive shirt.



this.





Come on, this shirt.



The fabric is the same, but the sewing is also amazing.



I forgot to take a picture of the sewer tag sewn on the inside, but this shirt was sewn by Fashion Izumi of Saitama Prefecture.



After all, Izumi's sewing level is wonderful.





this.



There are several factors that determine the level of sewing, one of which is this.



"hand movement".



This is an index of how many stitches are in every 3 cm.



In terms of this shirt, 3 cm is "21 stitches".



3 cm. It's 30 mm.




There are 21 stitches in between.



It's also on all the sewing points.




Clothing can be broadly divided into two categories: "casual" and "dress."



Casual is the kind of clothes that we carry.



The dress is the clothes handled by the tailor.



When it comes to dresses, there are cotton shirts with 21 stitches or 24 stitches.



Is the thread for sewing thin 70? Number 90 or something? There are times when even the thread used for sewing is so fine that it is sewn with such delicate stitches.



For that reason, the fabric will be thin cotton.



But this time, the fabric is 100% linen with cavalry twill bulges.



And the sewing thread is 50, not as thin as a dress.



That's 3 cm and 21 stitches.



I think this is the highest value for casual clothes in Japan right now.



Today, it is becoming impossible to sew with such fine needle movements.



That level of needle movement is firmly embedded in cavalry twill linen, which has a firm texture.



This figure is very, very beautiful.





Everything is sewn.



Whether you look at it in a photo or with the naked eye, it's just a "dot".



Sewing in which the "dots" are very well-proportioned and connected to form "lines".







Also the side slits.







Also the hem.







front desk too.



By the way, the button is a matte water buffalo.







The breast pocket also has a curved shape, but along the curve, too beautiful edge stitches are included.







And attach a collar.



The collar is attached to the body.



When it comes to attaching collars to these shirts, most of the shirts are sewn with crooked or distorted stitches.



This is because it is extremely difficult to prevent distortion here. smile




But this Yamauchi short-sleeved shirt is stunning.



There is no distortion even at the collar attachment.



I'm not going to deny the shirts you have at all, but if you compare them side by side, you can see that this shirt, or rather the level of sewing by Fashion Izumi, is insane.





Kobastitch of this quality. Panay.





And this picture is what I saw from the front of the collar.





On the front side, the stitching attached to the collar is not exposed on the collar.





If you look closely, do you understand? ?




There is no stitch on the collar, but it is the root.



This is a sewing technique called Otoshi Sewing Machine.



The invisible back side is sewn with strong strength, but the stitching on the front side is inconspicuous and the stitching is erased.



For this reason, although it has proper strength, it is almost invisible.



What's more, this sewing machine close to the edge of the collar continues beautifully.



It's also a great technique.



There are quite a few clothes that use this kind of sewing machine, but there are some sewing machines that can't be removed, and others that stand out because they are far from the collar.



Especially for mass-market clothes.



Even around the collar, it's not easy to sew, it's packed with technology.



this shirt.



Well, it has nothing to do with coordination.





Body facing (back).



The width of the endpaper is wide, and this linen fabric, I think you can feel it when you touch it, is a fabric with a lot of "movement".



Therefore, when viewed from the front, the interlining is firmly attached to the back of this wide facing page so that the front facing area can be seen properly.



As a result, considering the size balance, Yamauchi has a slightly loose impression, but it looks very neat.





This is the back slit processing.



Just like the kasuri shirt that we delivered last time, the three-fold stitching on the hem meets the slit and disappears.



I think it's extremely difficult to sew here and there against the fabric.



I've done sewing work before, but even when I'm most used to it, I'm at a level where I can never sew this far.





Specifications around the shoulder seen from the back.



Everywhere sewing is folded down sewing.





Multiple layers of fabric are layered, and in addition, the shoulders are stitched with a super-pitch, which makes the pattern more rounded.



It has two stitches, but it's not a two-needle sewing machine.



Because each stitch is sewn separately.



It is exactly the domain of "craftsman" to sew this part at equal intervals with this needle movement.





Sewing armholes and side lines.



No matter how you look at it, this short-sleeved shirt will impress you.



This short-sleeved shirt, as I said earlier, is a fabric that has a lot of movement due to the characteristics of twill weave.



Even if you just sew straight, you can see that it will be distorted immediately.



But sew the fabric at this level.




First of all, Mr. Yamauchi's design is crazy, but the level of Mr. Izumi Fashion who makes it look amazing is super dangerous.



I'm so impressed with the texture of the fabric and the quality of the stitching that I only took pictures of it, so I don't think I really know what kind of shirt it is.



Well, anyway,, it's a great level shirt.



Please think.



So, see the real thing and be impressed by this quality.




oh yeah.



Yamauchi's shirt is made at this level, but in order to make it come true, the technology and time accumulated by fashion Izumi who sews this shirt are packed, and the effort put into sewing this shirt, The dimensions are different compared to normal shirts.



Otherwise this kind of clothes will not be completed.



Just be grateful for it and wear it neatly.



Isn't that what you mean?



I don't think it's very good.



This shirt is also washable.



Well, it's a hand wash display.



I think the ideal is for the person who picks up this shirt to wear it without thinking about anything.



Anyway, it's very neat because the hands are in it.



That's why, at first, it may even feel like it's too stiff, but that's first of all because we'll be able to "see" the techniques of the producers.



After that, it's best to wear it messed up by the owner.



Wear, wash, and repeat countless times.



As you do so, the firmness of the fabric and the firmness of the mood will be removed, and the appearance of the owner's wear and amazing technique will match.



If you do that, I think it will be clothes that give off a spectacular aura.



With normal clothes that are made in a certain way, you can never reach that kind of realm, and it will always end up falling apart.



normal.



But when it comes to shirts like Yamauchi's this time, the amount of time you wear them and the number of times you run through them all have a positive effect.



That's what I think of as an absolute position when I see Yamauchi in terms of clothes.



Of course, I believe that the Yamauchi brand will shape the future of Japanese clothing craftsmen.



However, when I see it in clothes, I really think so.



That's why it's durable and can be used roughly.



And it keeps getting better and better.



Especially since it's the summer when you'll be sweating from now on, it's time to use it naturally without straining yourself.




Please take a look if you like it.



As I've been telling you before, we're currently in the middle of a project, but today, I'd like to introduce you to Yamauchi, who was delivered.

Yamauchi's items currently being held are all one-of-a-kind, but the stock of short pants is limited, so we are out of stock.

Therefore, the size is also limited, but if the size fits, I would like you to compare the colors and patterns unique to Hakomura Shibori and choose one.

There are fewer items that are not "A", but if you look at them, I think you can feel the fierce hurdles of Mr. Yamauchi's "Standards for A".

Today, I would like to introduce a collection that has been delivered.

A short-sleeved shirt. Linen 100.

However, I think that it is completely different from the linen that everyone imagines.

This fabric is woven by Kuzuri Keori in Aichi Prefecture, and Kuzuri is a "wool fabric" weaver.

such as wool and animal hair. Along with that, the loom used is also called "Schönherl loom", which is specialized for woolen fabrics.

It is a finished linen fabric that makes full use of the loom used to weave the "woolen fabric".

Yamauchi

Schonherr Linen Short Sleeve Tailored Collar Shirt

material_LINEN 100%

color_ASH GRAY

size_2,3,4

Yamauchi

Schonherr Linen Short Sleeve Tailored Collar Shirt

material_LINEN 100%

color_BLACK

size_2,3,4

this.

As the name suggests, it is a short-sleeved shirt with a tailored collar style.

Two colors.

ASH GRAY and BLACK tinged with brown.

The size is quite spacious even in Yamauchi.

The texture of the fabric is strong, the edges of the details stand out, and the stitching is crackling, but the size balance is well balanced.

The fabric first.

As mentioned above, the fabric is 100% linen woven by Kuzuri Keori.

It's a twill weave, but in terms of organization, it's "cavalry twill".

The angle of the twill is very steep, and it is a fabric that allows you to see the structure very well.

If it is made in a cotton fabric production area, this structure is called "karze".

The warp is a 66 count single yarn.

The weft is a 75 count single yarn.

A fabric composed of single yarns for both warp and weft.

The texture of the fabric is also very characteristic of 100 linen fabric, and the touch is amazing.

This is because Aichi Prefecture, where Mr. Keori Kuzuri is located, is called the Bishu production area.

What do you mean,

After the fabric is woven, it is finished with a finishing touch.

This finishing is a very important process, and it is a process that greatly affects the finished fabric.

According to Mr. Yamauchi of Yamauchi, basically, weavers in Bishu almost always ask finishers in Bishu to do the finishing work.

In other words, the linen fabric is "finished" by a finishing shop that specializes in the finishing of wool and other woolen fabrics.

This is because in other production areas, such as Enshu, the production area of ​​cotton textiles, it is rare for the weavers in Enshu to request the finish only to finishers in the same Enshu.

It seems that depending on the finish you are aiming for, you may finish in another region, not just in the same region.

This isn't about which one is better or worse.

In other words, for this linen, a specialist in wool woven the fabric using a loom for wool, and finished it specifically for wool, from the finish that affects the texture of the fabric.

That means.

Therefore, it is completely different from the image of 100 linen fabric that everyone has.

And it's at a great level.

I think everyone likes the look and feel of this fabric.

The wind also passes.

Besides, it's not just the new condition, but I can already see the wonderful scenery waiting for me after I wear it and wash it.

It's summer, isn't it?

Wearing it, sweating it, and washing it is a very positive shirt.

this.

Come on, this shirt.

The fabric is the same, but the sewing is also amazing.

I forgot to take a picture of the sewer tag sewn on the inside, but this shirt was sewn by Fashion Izumi of Saitama Prefecture.

After all, Izumi's sewing level is wonderful.

this.

There are several factors that determine the level of sewing, one of which is this.

"hand movement".

This is an index of how many stitches are in every 3 cm.

In terms of this shirt, 3 cm is "21 stitches".

3 cm. It's 30 mm.

There are 21 stitches in between.

It's also on all the sewing points.

Clothing can be broadly divided into two categories: "casual" and "dress."

Casual is the kind of clothes that we carry.

The dress is the clothes handled by the tailor.

When it comes to dresses, there are cotton shirts with 21 stitches or 24 stitches.

Is the thread for sewing thin 70? Number 90 or something? There are times when even the thread used for sewing is so fine that it is sewn with such delicate stitches.

For that reason, the fabric will be thin cotton.

But this time, the fabric is 100% linen with cavalry twill bulges.

And the sewing thread is 50, not as thin as a dress.

That's 3 cm and 21 stitches.

I think this is the highest value for casual clothes in Japan right now.

Today, it is becoming impossible to sew with such fine needle movements.

That level of needle movement is firmly embedded in cavalry twill linen, which has a firm texture.

This figure is very, very beautiful.

Everything is sewn.

Whether you look at it in a photo or with the naked eye, it's just a "dot".

Sewing in which the "dots" are very well-proportioned and connected to form "lines".

Also the side slits.

Also the hem.

front desk too.

By the way, the button is a matte water buffalo.

The breast pocket also has a curved shape, but along the curve, too beautiful edge stitches are included.

And attach a collar.

The collar is attached to the body.

When it comes to attaching collars to these shirts, most of the shirts are sewn with crooked or distorted stitches.

This is because it is extremely difficult to prevent distortion here. smile

But this Yamauchi short-sleeved shirt is stunning.

There is no distortion even at the collar attachment.

I'm not going to deny the shirts you have at all, but if you compare them side by side, you can see that this shirt, or rather the level of sewing by Fashion Izumi, is insane.

Kobastitch of this quality. Panay.

And this picture is what I saw from the front of the collar.

On the front side, the stitching attached to the collar is not exposed on the collar.

If you look closely, do you understand? ?

There is no stitch on the collar, but it is the root.

This is a sewing technique called Otoshi Sewing Machine.

The invisible back side is sewn with strong strength, but the stitching on the front side is inconspicuous and the stitching is erased.

For this reason, although it has proper strength, it is almost invisible.

What's more, this sewing machine close to the edge of the collar continues beautifully.

It's also a great technique.

There are quite a few clothes that use this kind of sewing machine, but there are some sewing machines that can't be removed, and others that stand out because they are far from the collar.

Especially for mass-market clothes.

Even around the collar, it's not easy to sew, it's packed with technology.

this shirt.

Well, it has nothing to do with coordination.

Body facing (back).

The width of the endpaper is wide, and this linen fabric, I think you can feel it when you touch it, is a fabric with a lot of "movement".

Therefore, when viewed from the front, the interlining is firmly attached to the back of this wide facing page so that the front facing area can be seen properly.

As a result, considering the size balance, Yamauchi has a slightly loose impression, but it looks very neat.

This is the back slit processing.

Just like the kasuri shirt that we delivered last time, the three-fold stitching on the hem meets the slit and disappears.

I think it's extremely difficult to sew here and there against the fabric.

I've done sewing work before, but even when I'm most used to it, I'm at a level where I can never sew this far.

Specifications around the shoulder seen from the back.

Everywhere sewing is folded down sewing.

Multiple layers of fabric are layered, and in addition, the shoulders are stitched with a super-pitch, which makes the pattern more rounded.

It has two stitches, but it's not a two-needle sewing machine.

Because each stitch is sewn separately.

It is exactly the domain of "craftsman" to sew this part at equal intervals with this needle movement.

Sewing armholes and side lines.

No matter how you look at it, this short-sleeved shirt will impress you.

This short-sleeved shirt, as I said earlier, is a fabric that has a lot of movement due to the characteristics of twill weave.

Even if you just sew straight, you can see that it will be distorted immediately.

But sew the fabric at this level.

First of all, Mr. Yamauchi's design is crazy, but the level of Mr. Izumi Fashion who makes it look amazing is super dangerous.

I'm so impressed with the texture of the fabric and the quality of the stitching that I only took pictures of it, so I don't think I really know what kind of shirt it is.

Well, anyway,, it's a great level shirt.

Please think.

So, see the real thing and be impressed by this quality.

oh yeah.

Yamauchi's shirt is made at this level, but in order to make it come true, the technology and time accumulated by fashion Izumi who sews this shirt are packed, and the effort put into sewing this shirt, The dimensions are different compared to normal shirts.

Otherwise this kind of clothes will not be completed.

Just be grateful for it and wear it neatly.

Isn't that what you mean?

I don't think it's very good.

This shirt is also washable.

Well, it's a hand wash display.

I think the ideal is for the person who picks up this shirt to wear it without thinking about anything.

Anyway, it's very neat because the hands are in it.

That's why, at first, it may even feel like it's too stiff, but that's first of all because we'll be able to "see" the techniques of the producers.

After that, it's best to wear it messed up by the owner.

Wear, wash, and repeat countless times.

As you do so, the firmness of the fabric and the firmness of the mood will be removed, and the appearance of the owner's wear and amazing technique will match.

If you do that, I think it will be clothes that give off a spectacular aura.

With normal clothes that are made in a certain way, you can never reach that kind of realm, and it will always end up falling apart.

normal.

But when it comes to shirts like Yamauchi's this time, the amount of time you wear them and the number of times you run through them all have a positive effect.

That's what I think of as an absolute position when I see Yamauchi in terms of clothes.

Of course, I believe that the Yamauchi brand will shape the future of Japanese clothing craftsmen.

However, when I see it in clothes, I really think so.

That's why it's durable and can be used roughly.

And it keeps getting better and better.

Especially since it's the summer when you'll be sweating from now on, it's time to use it naturally without straining yourself.

Please take a look if you like it.

Back to blog