YAK・WOOL clothes ~Yamauchi~

The other day, I mentioned that I was able to obtain special yak and wool fabrics, and that I would be making clothes out of them.

It was Yamauchi who requested that the fabric be used to make special clothes.

You've made some great clothes.

I think it was the biggest surprise in my clothing life.

When I saw the finished product as clothes.

I think that the quality of clothes is determined by these three elements: appearance, quality, and comfort.

Roughly and succinctly.

Considering the trinity, this outfit can be said to be No. 1 at the moment.

I made three items: a trench coat, a tailored jacket, and seamless pants.

I think it was very meaningful to work with Yamauchi on the premise that each of them could make the most of the characteristics of this yak wool fabric and not go beyond the framework of universal things.

And it will be released soon.

It will be on sale from the 21st (Sat).

We will talk about the sales method later.

Well, at the store, nothing has changed as before.

Yamauchi for CASANOVA&Co.

Yak Wool/Tailored Jacket

face material _ 18.5μ nondyed yak 50%, SUPER 120s wool 50%


This yak wool jacket is based on the tailored jacket that is also available in Yamauchi's collection this season.

We used the same prototype, but it was the most well-made tailored jacket of the brand so far, so we asked for the production to be the same as the prototype.

Many of the jackets that Yamauchi has developed in the past were made with special fabrics, but this one is so-called orthodox, or because it uses this much fabric, it has a solid interlining.

All the front body has interlining, and the interlining is neatly inserted all the way to the shoulder line and the shoulder of the back body.

So far, we haven't developed jackets like this very often, but as I get older, I find myself wondering why.

That's why I've been thinking about it for a few years now, but at this time, it's Yamauchi's tailored jacket that can hit all of my feelings.

Mr. Yamauchi said it himself, so it is a tailored jacket, but it is a little different from what Mr. Tailor made.

I would like to talk a little bit about it in this blog, but I would like to separate myself from that in the apparel market, where the word "tailor's tailoring" is prevalent.

This jacket, the points worthy of special mention are "shoulders" and "stitches".

There are many other things, but let me explain the points that are particularly noteworthy that are clearly different from other tailored jackets.

First, "shoulders".

In the first place, I haven't worn a lot of tailored jackets until now, but that includes my age.

Also, due to the nature of its construction, there was a sense of incongruity that it would inevitably float. It's not like we have ceremonial occasions every day.

The reason is that the shoulder pads are too strong.

However, I don't like tailored jackets that are too thin and too light with almost no interlining.

However, this jacket was different.

The reason is the shoulder I mentioned earlier.

The shoulder detail was created using a method that I had never heard of before, called “imitation wari”.

If you look at the photo, you can understand it to some extent, but it's not the shoulders that are unique to tailored jackets. this.

That is the gift of "similarity".

I'm going to talk about the inside that I can't see from now on.

Due to the nature of a normal jacket, the seam allowance is laid down on one side of the sleeve.

This is called one-sided defeat.

Place the pad on the body part of the shoulder, and then fold the seam allowance to the sleeve side.

This gives the sleeves a rounded float in addition to the amount of float on the pad.

This is a normal tailored jacket.

So, a thin tailored style jacket without padding may have only a thin interlining on the body of the shoulder or nothing.

That's fine, but... This jacket is a very rare specification.


The one-sided seam allowance mentioned earlier is used on the sleeve side, but not only that, but the same amount of fabric (yak wool for the outer material) is also inserted on the body side.

It is a specification that resembles split stitching.

Split stitching is, for example, the inside specifications of the outside of selvedge denim, and the inside seam allowances on both ends of the NEAT trousers that we carry.

In other words, the same amount of seam allowance is lurking inside.

It is said that this "similarity" is not a specification that is usually used for men's tailored jackets, but also for clothes such as blousons, and it is a very rare specification.

As a result, a three-dimensional, masculine and beautiful shoulder line is born, but it does not go too far.

It can be worn casually, and it is a jacket that can be worn in a slightly formal scene without any problems.

Of course, it's just a good fabric.

The more you wear it, the more it conforms to the owner's body and changes to become familiar with it.

And then stitch.

When creating the tailored jacket, Mr. Yamauchi thought about how to incorporate Yamauchi's uniqueness into a universal jacket.

Yamauchi is also a brand that has a very distinctive quality of sewing, and Mr. Yamauchi himself is a person who pursues stitch work anyway.

Originally, the more casual the stitching is, the more it will be exposed.

If you can imagine coveralls and jeans that are synonymous with casual wear, can you get a vague image of them?

On the contrary, the more formal wear (dress wear), the more hidden the stitches. In general.

In other words, if you think about it within the framework of a tailored jacket, it should be the latter type of clothing.

The standard for the original tailored jacket is that the stitches are not exposed too much.

What Yamauchi aimed for was to incorporate Yamauchi's character while not deviating greatly from the standard appearance.

In addition, Yamauchi's clothes are characterized by inserting a stiff interlining into shirts that have collars, and then applying edge stitching to highlight the edges of the clothes.

And this jacket also has a very fine edge stitch at 1.5mm from the edge of the fabric.

There are very fine and well-proportioned stitchwork on the lapels, bodice edges, hem, and cuffs, where you don't often see stitches on a normal tailored jacket.

The appearance is completely different by adding this Yamauchi essence.

It's not excessive, but it's a beautiful and powerful tailored jacket.

As you all know, the outer material of this jacket is yak and wool.

Against the lining.

Mr. Yamauchi prepared something special for us.

It has a luxury lining that I have always wanted to use for my brand.

Wool and cupro lining. This is also very rare.

I myself see a lot of clothes, but the wool and cupra linings are rarely seen.

Even this has a tremendous sense of luxury and a touch that gently snuggles up to the inner.

As you can see, the coloring is a high level matching.

Side vents by the way.

Framed with sharp corners. and Koba stitch. and lined tematsuri.

Regarding the edge stitching I mentioned earlier, as you can see from this photo, it is sewn straight to the back side without any deviation.

When I asked Mr. Yamauchi why he didn't use edge stitching on his tailored jacket, he told me that besides the fact that it's dress wear, it's also because the stitches tend to come off on the back. .

If you look at the actual product, you will understand, but the outer material is not simply a single sheet.

Two pieces of fabric overlap to form a table.

like a lapel. It might be a look back.

If the stitches fall off the part that comes to the back side, it will be ruined. So you probably won't see it.

For the buttons, I have prepared genuine water buffalo buttons with a slightly darker tone to match the outer material.

Of course, since it is a natural product, each pattern is different.

And the cuffs are three button specifications of the main face.

It's a natural line.

Sizes are available in a limited number of sizes from 2 to 5 with the full lineup of brand development.

Yamauchi for CASANOVA&Co.

Yak wool/trench coat

face material _ 18.5μ nondyed yak 50%, SUPER 120s wool 50%


This is a trench coat.

This coat is designed to maximize the characteristics of the yak wool fabric used.

The jacket is fully lined, but this coat is half lined.

In addition, the interlining is properly applied to the necessary places such as the collar, but as much as possible, it is composed of only the outer material where it can be finished with only one outer material so that it can create a drape when worn.

And this coat is lighter than the jacket in terms of how the interlining is put in, but the stitching work is rough.

Like the jacket, the edge stitching is still there, but the edge + 7mm double stitching is abundantly installed.

Please enjoy the contrast of Yamauchi quality supernatural stitching against super high quality fabric.

4 fine stitches on the back and shoulders make it a transcendent specification.

I think the technique of sewing in parallel with this pitch without any deviation is wonderful.

Also, I will introduce the name of the seamstress who sewed each dress later.

The coat is half lined.

Please enjoy the contrast between the bulging drape of very fine yak wool and Yamauchi's stitchwork.

After all, the long coat has an overwhelming feeling.

This is the amount of dough.

Considering the characteristics of clothes called a coat and understanding the characteristics of this fabric, I think it was completed with a splendid degree of perfection.

As for this coat, it retains the original characteristics of being worn over a jacket, and has a generous size.

Width, armholes, etc.

If you can wear it with all your might, it will be a superb view.

Yamauchi for CASANOVA&Co.

Yak Wool/Side Seamless Pants

face material _ 18.5μ nondyed yak 50%, SUPER 120s wool 50%


This is the last one. pants.

These pants are completely original from the shape.

Well, the base does exist.

It is a completely original pattern that Mr. Yamauchi made from scratch for this time.

Those who are familiar with Yamauchi's brand collection may have guessed it right away, but the inspiration came from the collection's wool seamless pants.

But this time, I'm also making a jacket, so I'd like a handful of people in Japan to enjoy the finest set-up.

When you become a subordinate with that jacket. Assuming that, I asked them to add a front opening and belt loops to the pants in the collection.

But it's easier said than done.

It was difficult to shape it, so I asked Mr. Yamauchi to do his best.

Then, something more than expected came.

Please be happy.

A feature of these pants is that you can fully experience the characteristics of the fabric.

Eliminate as many seams as possible. No lining.

These two are the special points.

Yamauchi's signature stitchwork is fully visualized in the jackets and coats I mentioned earlier.

However, just seeing is not everything.

Clothes are a trinity.

There is also the world of beauty called subtraction.

Therefore, the number of sewing parts is reduced as much as possible, and the stiffness caused by the presence of seams is eliminated as much as possible.

The result is a soft drape.

Especially since there is no seam on the outside, the side view when worn may be set as the iPhone wallpaper.

This is it. I think that you can understand if you wear it.

There is elastic around the waist, but the elastic gathers are hard to see when wearing the jacket.

A loop is also provided so that a belt can be used.

Tengu, Excela, and dark brown water buffalo are also enshrined.

As for these pants, I have achieved the best comfort in my clothing life so far.

First, don't wear it, just hold it and touch it.

It will be different at that point.

Break through the concept of everyone's pants.

There is no one who does not feel the touch of the finest skin wearing these pants.

I've worn worsted cashmere trousers in the past and they surpassed them.

This is the power of Kuzuri Keori's fabrics.

These pants are the best way to experience the splendor of this fabric.

Therefore, I was worried about my troubles and made it a specification without lining.

Thinking about Mr. Yamauchi, I decided to make a decision without lining, but I got the best touch.

Please try it on.

The shape is a beautiful outline that tapers toward the hem.

There is no outer seam, and the cylinder is made from a single piece of fabric.

It's coming soon. From the 21th (Sat).

Back to blog