Wonderful Worsted Fabric ~Special Edition~

As a person who explores clothes, as a person who handles clothes in a store, I would like to always pursue "fabric".

Even when judging clothes, the weight of good and bad there occupies a lot.

But these days, I'm more attracted to things that you can't really tell what the fabric is like as soon as you see it, rather than something that you can imagine just by looking at it.

By looking at it, you can finally imagine it, touch it with your hands, wear it, and gradually understand it.

Thankfully, there are many brands that we carry in our store, and I myself personally see the full collection of about 60 to 70 domestic and overseas men's brands in a half-year season, and the quality is very high. The more expensive the fabric is, the less you can make contact with the fabric with the first touch.

Are you saying that you won't open the door to your heart right away?

This means that you cannot immediately understand what is going on.

The clothes that are actually available in the store are made of carefully selected varieties of cotton and the finest animal hair, but there is a possibility that the fabrics may be overlooked at first glance. There may be many.

In terms of this season, there are The Inoue Brothers' alpaca, Mongolian cashmere, and MOTHER HAND artisan's wool x angora that will be unveiled soon. Is there something that shines ahead?

All of them are high-quality materials, and you can feel the potential of the fibers after wearing them for a long time.

Well, the pursuit of such fiber materials will continue in the future, so I would be happy if you could join us.

But there are some fabrics in the world that can never be made again.

You may already have some idea of ​​it.

It's the fabric in the photo.

Our CASANOVA&Co. This November is Anniversary Month, isn't it? smile

So I was thinking of something suitable for that.

So far, I have been introducing wonderful fibers that have been turned into threads and woven into fabrics, but at this time I was wondering if I could create something that everyone has never experienced before.

Since we are a select shop that sells ready-made clothes, we start by consulting with someone and asking someone who agrees, and that person immediately popped into my mind.

Then, we started talking about what we think about in our daily life and what we want to do as a clothing store, and in the end, we readily agreed.

But here is the real start.

Nothing will happen if you just think about it.

It's not like that, it's not like that, we're talking about what's good and what we want to do.

However, since I've been with the designer for a little while, he understands me very well, and I thought that this person would be the best choice for me.

Thanks to you, I was able to prepare wonderful fabrics.

Let me introduce you.

However, I will tell you everything I can say about the fabric this time, so there may be things you do not understand.

If you want to dig deep, read the whole thing.

However, you may not understand it just by reading it once, so read it several times.

I have heard all the information that can be disclosed to Mr. Itoya and Mr. Weaver, so let me talk about it. (There are some technical parts, but I will explain it in an easy-to-understand manner.)

First, this fabric. I can't make it again.

The reason is that there are no raw materials. Simply.

And there is only one company that can weave the fabric so far.

It seems that the machine shop says that it can no longer be done.

This fabric is 50% YAK and 50% SUPER120s WOOL.

Yes, it's yak wool.

By the way, the yak is undyed.

Cashmere is the “King of Textiles”.

Silk, the "Queen of Fibers".

These two are famous as the finest fibers, but in terms of cashmere, we have made sweaters from BODHI, The CLASIK, and Seya. I did.

These materials are also very good, but you can imagine how dangerous cashmere and silk are. That extravagance.

If you do a search, you'll find plenty of information now.

However, when it comes to YAK, even if you search the Internet, you may not find the information you want, or even get no hits.

It's not in circulation. at all.

Also, even if I checked this fabric this time, I could not find any resemblance.

The reason is that you are doing things that you normally wouldn't be able to do.

Kuzuri Keori Industry Co., Ltd., located in Ichinomiya City, Aichi Prefecture, has woven a special fabric that only Mr. Kuzuri Keori can do.

I have prepared.

I think that it will take you to a world that you have never experienced with clothes.

inexperienced zone.

Amazing New World.

It's the fabric that I've been most excited about in the last few years.

Number one.

Recently, it has been updated, but this was by far the best.

In the first place, the yak inhabits the Tibetan Plateau in China at a height of 3000m or more and less than 6000m.

So, it seems that it is one of the most severely cold regions in the world, and only a limited number of animals can live in places that far.

A yak that lives there.

Mount Fuji is the highest point in Japan at 3776m.

The highest point in the world is Mount Everest at 8848m.

No animals live at the height of Everest. perhaps.

I've never been there so I don't know.

By the way, it seems that the lowest yak is 3000m, and it seems that they are only at about 3000m for a moment throughout the year.

YAK is said to be "the fiber closest to the sky."

Yak hair was developed to protect themselves from such a harsh environment.

100% downy hair.

Only downy hair of yak fibers can be used for clothes, and it is said to be 15 to 19 microns in numerical value within the range of high quality.

Cashmere is 14.5 to 16.5 microns. This is also downy hair.

Vicuña, the world's thinnest fiber, is about 12.5 microns. Micron is 0.001mm equal to 1 micron.

I don't understand anymore.

That's why yak is a very thin fiber among animal fibers.

Well, if you like clothes, you've probably seen a yak sweater.

It's important from here. Very much.

Knitwear such as sweaters is made from wool.

Wool and animal hair (yak, cashmere, alpaca, angora, etc.) are divided into "wool" and "worsted" when spun into yarn.

・Spun yarn is a fluffy and fluffy yarn that is suitable for knitting.

When making threads from fibers, twist them as they are to make threads. Therefore, it becomes a warm and fluffy yarn.

・Worsted hair is easy to understand if you imagine a suit fabric.

When making threads from fibers, the fibers are combed to straighten them out and then twisted to form threads.

As a result, the yarn becomes shiny and less fuzzy.

Keeping that in mind, most of the yak fibers that exist in the world are spun wool.

That's why I think you'll see yak sweaters.

If it exists, it is common.

Of course, it's a very rare fiber, and it's good.

But this time the fabric is "worsted".

Worsted yak is extremely rare in the world, and even in Japan, only Mr. Keori Kuzuri can make it.

First of all, it's not just yak that's fine, but only the highest quality yak can be used as worsted yarn.

Kuzuri Keori's ability to "weave" the worsted threads is the result of the very high technology possessed by Mr. Kuzuri Keori, and it is a white product that is difficult for other weavers to shape.

However, I mentioned earlier that the blend ratio of this fabric is 50% yak and 50% wool.

There's a reason for that too.

In the first place, yak cannot be combed with chisels, and it is impossible to weave it into fabric.

However, I tried to make a thread with as much yak as possible.

Mr. Kuzuri Keori made use of his excellent technique and repeated trial and error to create a fabric that does not exist in the world.

It is said that this 50% mixing ratio is barely the maximum amount of yak.

Also, I just touched on the fineness of yak, didn't I?

All yak in this fabric is 18.5 microns.

And 50% of the wool is SUPER 120s quality wool.

Regarding the notation "SUPER○○s", it can be called "SUPER○○s" if it contains even a small amount of that level, but please rest assured that this fabric is 100% SUPER120s.

I checked with Kuzuri Moori many times. smile

Here, some people may be a little offended by the fact that Yak is 18.5 microns.

Among the fineness of yak, it is a little thicker. Say it clearly.

Of course it's super high quality.

However, this is not just a pursuit of thinness.

Yak and Super 120 wool are blended half and half.

In other words, it would be nice if you thought that half of the warp and weft were mixed.

It is made into a 60-count two-ply yarn (two 60-count threads are combined to make one thread).

yes. Worsted, 60-count two-ply yarn, 18.5 micron yak and super 120 wool are thick for yarn.

This is Keori Kuzuri's super virtuosity.

By using undyed ultra-high-quality yak, which is rarely found in Japan, and combing it, I thought I could create a touch that could never be felt in a knit.

Therefore, instead of stretching the thread tightly to weave the fabric, we stretched it only to the minimum necessary amount and woven it in a state of super super super low tension. The loom used for weaving is a Schonherr loom, which is very close to the hand-woven loom that Kuzuri Keori specializes in.

That's why I think there's almost no stress on the threads or fibers.

Because it is a very precious raw material, we have woven it into a fabric that allows you to feel the potential of the fiber to the maximum.

This fabric is really amazing.

Yak's natural properties are strong and flexible, but despite the bounce of the fabric and the softness, luster and worstedness of Super 120, the overwhelming bulge is something you've never seen before. A different dimension from other fabrics.

It's the fabric of that level.

Of course, I checked with a microscope.

Undyed yak has a brownish color.

SUPER120s wool looks whitish and pale.

Normally, when different materials are mixed together to make a fabric, the thickness of each fiber is different, but in this case, the brown yak fiber and the whitish wool fiber appear to have the same thickness.

Actually, this is also what we are aiming for, and SUPER 120s is the same thickness as 18.5 microns of yak fiber to make yak into worsted hair.

Therefore, in order to improve the combination of both, we set them to the same fineness in order to make them more compatible.

Also, when I was doing this microscope, at first I didn't notice that it was a two-ply yarn (two threads are one).

The reason is that the thread itself is very bulging and not tightly tightened because there is almost no load on the thread with the 60 count.

But if you look closely, you can see that it is a double thread.

That's why it's durable, and this bulge is the greatest benefit to the wearer.

Coloring and texture unique to undyed yak.

At first, you may only feel that it is a good shade.

However, this will blow your mind. surely.

I have prepared some wonderful fabrics.

By the way, this fabric was so good that I bought everything at the weaving shop this time.

It's a fabric that can never be made again, but it's a fabric that will never be seen again in the world. First and last.

And I used this fabric to make wonderful clothes.

It looks like it will be unveiled soon.

Back to blog