Beginning of "Yamauchi" Spring

Yamauchi's collection for the 2020SS season has finally started.

That being said, the pink silk shirt that was released in January was part of the spring/summer season, but this time the 2020 brand's spring/summer collection has begun.

Even if I wanted to write a blog, it was difficult to write because it was a special period for irose and HEALTH that were held until the other day, and I had to go on business trips, but I think I can make a comeback soon.

At that time, Yamauchi came, so I'm going to write about Yamauchi's clothes as usual. That's why I'm going to introduce Yamauchi's stuff today.

Since this is the first shot of the new season, we will start with high-quality items. Blouson and Blouson. Two. As you can see in the first photo, this is the first.

No collar zip jacket with Yamauchi rib

Outer material: 50% cotton, 50% Japanese paper

Color : black

Accessories: Genuine water buffalo button, YKK Excela, Yamauchi rib

Size : 2, 3

The ultimate blouson. This fabric is crazy. It will fit.

This is the first fabric that appeared in Yamauchi.

It's a fabric that has the strongest potential, but it's shiny, and you can easily imagine how it will wither. Mixing ratio is as shown. 50% cotton warp and 50% Japanese paper weft are woven together.

This zip jacket itself has been made in Yamauchi's collection with repeated fine-tuning, but when combined with this fabric, I feel a strong atmosphere that is different from anything I've ever had.

This is densely woven with thick cotton and Japanese paper. Black cotton thread that is tightly twisted. Black with a flat thread surface and a dull luster unique to Japanese paper. I think the contrast between these threads creates a very nice atmosphere.

The texture of the fabric may be similar to thick cotton fabric, like a luxurious duck fabric. Also, well, it's a black color, but it's more like an old-fashioned black rather than a mode jet black.

I think people who like that color that was black at first but has faded to white after a long period of time will like it.

So, it is ultra sewing that is multiplied there.

It's a hard fabric, but it's a super quality that doesn't make you feel even the slightest error even when multiple layers of fabric overlap. This blouson has a complicated neck pattern, but this high-level sewing makes it even better.

It looks colorless when viewed from the front, but the back style has a pattern with a collar.

Ribs are attached to the hem and cuffs of the body against the strong fabric.

Even if you say ribs, they are transcendental perverted ribs.

sleeves too. up.

A daunting specification that hits hundreds of stitches with the same tension in the groove of the rib.

This greatly improves the durability and feel of the ribs, and certainly makes them look better. However, this meticulous attention to detail is no longer confined to the area of ​​clothing, but rather makes me feel the beauty of a sculpted object.

This is a shiromono that Mr. Yamauchi, a designer, makes all ribs by himself.

Well, there aren't many designers like that.

Because there are not many people who have the technology to do this.

And although it is a casual zip blouson, the shoulders are set relatively high so that the shoulders look beautiful when worn. That's the wrinkle. Do you understand. If you raise your arm a little, there will be a small puddle of dough at the top of your shoulder. As a result, when you put your arm down, you can realize an arm circumference that falls down.

The arm itself is also a three-dimensional two-piece sleeve.

However, the seams are too fine, the fabric is strong, and the fact that it has two sleeves is a level that you can't see unless you look closely.

Thin lining for lining.

Of course, this time of year, but for those who don't wear heavy clothes in winter, I think that if you put a sweater of good material inside, they will be able to use it sufficiently.

Recently, I like to wear clothes made of soft fabrics, imported clothes, and clothes that make me feel rough, but when I see clothes of this quality, my heart doesn't get excited. I can't stay.

While the fabric is hard and strong, Yamauchi's delicate tailoring. Things that are only found in this brand are alive and well.

The new condition is good, but I find it very attractive to wear this as work clothes in everyday life.

If so, I'm sure this dress will respond to that.

It's a dress full of potential for changing fabrics.

You can feel the growth from here just by looking at the fabric.

The sewing person is Saki Osaki. This is the first sewing machine I've seen.

A blouson that perfectly matches the atmosphere of delicate tailoring and strong fabric.

The size is 2 sizes this time.

How you wear it is up to you.

For example, it's like wearing a leather jacket. It also has a fabric feel to it.

It's good to wear it neatly as it is, or it's okay to wear it as a tool without worrying about anything.

I'm looking forward to seeing how this blouson will look in 3 or 5 years.

Yamauchi Arimatsu salt shrink processed zip jacket

Outer material: 100% cotton

Color : dark brown

Attachment: YKK Excela

Size : 2, 3

Next is this. One of the fabrics that symbolize Yamauchi. A blouson made from Arimatsu's salt-shrunk fabric. This one is lighter.

Fabric processing that applies Arimatsu Shibori, a traditional technique that has remained in the Arimatsu area of ​​Nagoya since ancient times. The reason for using it is that it has a unique texture, but it seems that the color changes greatly by doing this.

Even in Japan, there are cotton fabric production areas, but even those who have made many famous cotton fabrics in such production areas seem to have a hard time getting out the cotton. I think you can imagine that many materials such as wool have deeper colors. This is because there are differences in dyeing methods due to the characteristics of the material.

It seems that it is difficult to bring out the depth of color with cotton and linen. However, Mr. Yamauchi's special salt-shrinking process seems to solve that problem at once. In other words, this is a coloring that can only be produced by Yamauchi.

All of the salt-condensed ones that have appeared so far are like that.

So, what is the difference between this and the fabrics we have used so far? The weave is different.

Until now, we have been dealing with salt-shrinking linen shirts, but they are plain weave.

This is a twill weave.

Oblique fabric lines are visible.

This is the first development of twill weave salt shrinking.

This fabric is a little more flexible when worn. I mean soft. This is one of the characteristics of twill weave. I think that is important for people who like fabrics.

Also, a different setup.

hem and cuffs. The pattern design allows you to see the black lining.

This is revolutionary. This is the first structure I've seen.

As the front body goes from the center to the side, the lining gradually appears diagonally.

It's a feat of pattern work.

It makes a big difference when you wear it.

Yamauchi's clothes are salt-shrinked so that the stitches are not exposed on the surface as much as possible.

I think it's to make it possible to directly feel the splendor of this fabric, rather than highlighting the beauty of the stitching on the front.

This blouson is also finished so that only the collar part can be seen from the front.

This subtraction, Yamauchi balance.

This is also important.

Because it is a slightly light outerwear, the collar is finished so that it is not too stiff. Seen from the front.

However, the moon waist appears from the middle of the collar. When you look at it from the front, it looks light, but when you look at it from the back, it looks like the collar is standing firmly.

Clothes that are too loose are just loungewear, so I think it's a very well-balanced specification between the parts that are firmly finished and the parts that are not heavy.

The front is an Excela zipper, but there is also no zipper presser stitch that normally runs parallel to the zipper.

The fabric is sewn firmly on the back, so it doesn't feel flimsy, but it's held down at equal intervals.

I think it's a unique part of a brand that understands the structure of clothes and pursues sewing.

thin lining.

This is sewn by Yuriko Sato.

One of the joys unique to Yamauchi, where each garment is sewn by one person. Sewer check.

I think the clothes are really well made.

After all, this one is softer and lighter than the previous blouson.

For that reason, I think this one has an outline that gently falls on the arm and is light when worn.

You'll like which one you prefer.

Yamauchi's SS season started with these two.

Items that can be used as outerwear are only available for these two items this season.

If you like it, please take a look.

Back to blog