Interview -tilt the authentics-

So far, I have introduced clothes made with tilt The authentics.

As I told you, it will be on sale from July 15th (Sat) in Okayama, and from the 22nd (Sat) of the following week at Kitasando in Tokyo.

Also, regarding the Tokyo sale, the place and date are as announced last time.

We have separate products for Okayama and Tokyo, but the quantity is not so large at present, and it is not possible to secure products for each of the three days.

We will keep it in stock from the first day.

There is no need to make an appointment.

Today, I would like to finish with an interview with Mr. Nakatsu from tilt The authentics.

Tilt The Authentics has been dealing with the brand since its debut, but this is the first time it has been posted in such a format.

So, it's long, but I'd be happy if you could watch it to the end.

I will be described as "Fukuda", and Mr. Nakatsu from tilt The authentics will be described as "Nakatsu".


Fukuda) Thank you very much, Mr. Nakatsu.

Nakatsu) Thank you very much.

Fukuda) Finally. New Year's Eve.

Nakatsu) Finally.

Fukuda) In the first place, was it 7 years ago that we met for the first time?

Nakatsu) Yes. It's been seven years.

Fukuda) Your first exhibition was seven years ago, right?

Nakatsu) Yes.

Fukuda) At that time, Mr. Nakatsu sent an exhibition invitation to CASANOVA&CO.

Looking back, I didn't really know what brand it was.

I am very grateful, but even at that time, I received invitations and exhibition guides from quite a few brands, but due to the large amount of invitations, there were many places I could not go or could not go.

But for some strange reason, I thought I'd try it, so I went.

That was the first time, wasn't it?

Nakatsu) Yes.

Fukuda) It was a rainy day, wasn't it? in Shibuya.

Nakatsu) It was raining a lot.

Fukuda) At that time, it was about 30 minutes. It was almost time for my Shinkansen.

Nakatsu) In a very short time.

Fukuda) It was such a short time, but at that time I met Mr. Nakatsu for the first time.

At that time, I didn't have a lot of clothes at all.

Nakatsu) It was about 10 inches.

Fukuda) I still clearly remember the brown corduroy pants that I picked up at that time.

Nakatsu) Um, slim. Those are skinny pants.

Fukuda) Thin type. I still have those pants at home.

Nakatsu) Thank you. Pants for the first time.

Fukuda) Even after the exhibition, Mr. Nakatsu came to the store before the products were lined up in the store.

What a polite person he was then. I remember thinking.

Nakatsu) brand for the first time.

It was the first time since I started, and I didn't know what to do, so I had to go to the store to say hello to the first buyer who came to see me. I thought.

Besides, I thought that I had to take a good look at what kind of stores my clothes were displayed in, so I went there.

Fukuda) Come to think of it, Mr. Nakatsu, you haven't made it public, but the brand you worked for before was a completely different brand, wasn't it? smile

Nakatsu) lol. I agree.

But fundamentally, it's pretty close, and it's like paying attention to details.

The expressions I make are different, but I think the essential parts are still relevant today.

Fukuda) That's certainly my impression.

Nakatsu) I haven't made it public. smile

Fukuda) lol

So, this is the second time that we have received a "bespoke order".

Nakatsu) Yes. About 5 years ago.

A gingham check shirt.

Fukuda) Yes. Gingham check.

You were in 6th place. Six gingham check short sleeve shirts.

Nakatsu) Yes.

Fukuda) It was sold out in one day, so from the next day it was gone. smile

Nakatsu) Yes. smile

If I remember correctly, at that time, Mr. Fukuda didn't do much "bespoke", so I think it was the timing when he hadn't made that many in the first place.

Fukuda) That's right.

Nakatsu) So, I clearly remember receiving a message from Mr. Fukuda saying, "It sold out in one day," and "It's amazing."

The fact that it was sold out in one day remains vivid in my mind.

That's why it's a big thing for me that I've gradually accumulated experience through sessions with Mr. Fukuda through things like that.

Fukuda) Yeah yeah.

Nakatsu) After making my debut as a designer, I often feel fluffy when my products line up in stores.

Fukuda) Fluffy?

Nakatsu) Yes. Originally, I belonged to a manufacturer, and I made things for the manufacturer and watched them line up. Well, there's something completely different.

I think it was the first bespoke order that I was able to change that into a lot of confidence.

Fukuda) I see. That's how you thought.

It's been 7 years as a brand now.

Nakatsu) Yes. It's been seven years, counting from preparation.

Fukuda) It's been six years since you debuted.

Nakatsu) Six years.

Fukuda) First of all, it is said that fashion brands have a wall of "10 seasons". Inside, people say that "10 seasons" is the boundary.

But you're beyond that now.

6 years, so 12 seasons.

That's why it's amazing to go beyond that. I think.

As a brand, come alone.

Nakatsu) Yes.

I feel like I've come a long way, but I've finally made it to the starting line. It's also a feeling.

In the past 10 seasons, I've built up from nothing, and I feel that there's still a lot I can do and a lot I can do, and I'm getting more and more like that.

Fukuda) Yes.

Nakatsu) To some extent, how should we proceed? At the same time as I've gotten used to it, I feel like it's also a start.

Fukuda) I see.

I've been watching Nakatsu-san since he started, and I've seen him over 10 seasons. Nakatsu-san's clothes aren't flashy, but each and every one of them is made with great attention to detail. I feel it

Of course, this is also the case.

It's not flashy, but it's not plain either. It looks simple, but when you look at it, you can feel that it's very detailed and made with a lot of attention.

Nakatsu) Thank you. That's right, as you say, I think my personality comes out as it is.

Fukuda) That's right. Mr. Yamauchi from Yamauchi, Mr. Sugihara from nonnotte (former AUBETT), and I think Mr. Nakatsu is the same, but when I look at the clothes, I think the designer's face comes out.

There aren't many customers who come to CASANOVA&CO who have met Mr. Nakatsu, and Mr. Nakatsu doesn't even show up, so I'm sure there are people who wonder what kind of face he has.

Nakatsu) lol

Fukuda) If you meet Mr. Nakatsu, I think you'll know it's tilt The authentics just by looking at the clothes. I think you will link.

Nakatsu) Yes.

It's also linked to brands, but I don't usually put myself too far forward, and it's similar to how I approach clothes.

For example, sticking good fabrics where you can't see them, or paying attention to stitching even in places where you can't see them.

There are people who appreciate that kind of thing, so I don't think it's necessary for me to go out in particular.

Fukuda) This time, the fabric was woven by Mr. Yamaei, the pattern was made by Mr. Yamazaki, and the sewing was done by Ms. Maya.

Each and every one of you is a person with ability and technology.

In that world, aren't they people who are said to be the best in Japan?

Those people were especially serious about the clothes this time.

However, I don't think it's easy to build relationships with such people and get them to work at this level.

I think this is because of Mr. Nakatsu.

Nakatsu) Yes.

Fukuda) Mr. Nakatsu, when it comes to fabrics, why did you decide to ask Yamaei Keori to weave the fabrics for your brand collection in the first place?

It's already long, isn't it?

Mr. Yamaei.

Nakatsu) It's long.

Nakatsu) When I first thought about making original fabrics, the scale of the brand was small, so it was a major premise that I had to make fabrics in small lots.

Fukuda) Yes. yes.

Nakatsu) In Enshu and other production areas, we had to start with relatively large lots, so we decided to make fabrics in Bishu, such as Schonherr looms and rapier looms. I got it.

Fukuda) Yeah, yeah. yes.

Nakatsu) When that happens, I myself prefer cotton fabrics rather than 100% wool or 100% animal hair.

Among them, I was looking for a wide weaving shop that could weave cotton fabrics in Bishu.

Fukuda) That's right.

Nakatsu) That's right.

When I thought about it, Yamaei Keori was the only company in my mind.

A weaver who has many options and can do anything.

Even in Japan, there is only Yamaei Keori. That's what I thought, because I talked to them about the texture and movement of the fabric that I wanted to make, and it matched.

Fukuda) Yes. yes.

Nakatsu) Another thing is the personality of Mr. Yamada (the president of Yamaei Keori).

Fukuda) Certainly.

Nakatsu) Even though I've never met him, I sent him a really nasty email at first.

Fukuda) That's right. It's time to contact you for the first time.

Nakatsu) I would like to make fabrics for the first time because I want to do this kind of thing with this kind of brand. What?

We have no track record and we are a small brand, but will you listen to us? I sent it.

Fukuda) Whoa. Whoa.

Nakatsu) Then he replied right away.

Fukuda) Huh~. Despite the fact that we weave fabrics from many brands around the world.

Nakatsu) That's right.

However, regardless of the size of the brand, I really felt that Mr. Yamada treated me as a person and wanted to create something good together. I decided.

I started making the fabric from 2019AW, so it's been a long time since then.

Fukuda) Navy jacket.

Nakatsu) Yes. That fabric is gabardine, which Yamaei Keori specializes in, and is woven with wool and cotton in a Tilt The Authentics style.

Fukuda) The lining was Super 140.

Nakatsu) Yes. of Super 140

Fukuda) Herringbone.

Nakatsu) Herringbone. The first thing I made was Yamaei Keori's unique fabric, plain weave patterned fabric with nuances that had never existed before, and my favorite combination of different materials, wool and linen, with different yarn counts. Twill fabric.

At first, we developed the orthodox one.

At first, it was a feeling of memorizing the characteristics of combining different materials while making various things.

Fukuda) Yes. yes. yes.

Nakatsu) At first, I memorized it and changed the combinations more and more.

It took me about two or three years to make it work for me.

Fukuda) Hmm. I see. It's was so.

I think there are some overlaps with what we just talked about, but what do you think Yamaei-san's appeal is, Nakatsu-san? ?

Nakatsu) Simple

Personality, isn't it? Yamada's.

Fukuda) Whoa. That's right.

I also really felt that way about Mr. Yamada.

Nakatsu) That kind of thing is pretty big for me too, and among the people I work with, it's something I cherish tremendously.

Fukuda) That's right. When it comes to working together for a long time, things like money are important, but in this day and age, it's easy to make waves.

But I don't think there are waves in personality.

Nakatsu) Yes. That's why, when you're creating things together, there will come a time when what you think is good and what the other person thinks is good is different.

So, no, I want to do this. It's not like this. I don't think it's going to be a better one if it's not a relationship that can be said.

There are times when something that compromises quite a bit is completed, isn't it?

Fukuda) I certainly think so.

Nakatsu) That's difficult. Even if you have a good relationship, I think it's surprising that there are relationships where you can't say no.

If you don't have that, I think you can raise each other together.

I felt that kind of thing at the beginning, so to Mr. Yamaei.

Fukuda) I see.

Nakatsu) Also, to raise the level of practice. Even if I don't say it, it's a relationship where this person can read what I like.

On the other hand, even if I think like this, I think that it is something that you can understand when you are dealing with things like reading ahead of time that you will say that it is difficult.

Fukuda) Certainly.

Nakatsu) A relationship where we understand each other.

Mr. Yamaei, the sewing factory, and others.

Fukuda) I see.

How long have you been working with Mr. Yamazaki, a pattern maker, in such a place?

Nakatsu) Mr. Yamazaki has been since his debut. All types from debut.

I've never done tilt the authentics patterns other than Mr. Yamazaki.

Fukuda) All?

Nakatsu) Everything.

Fukuda) Then, Mr. Yamazaki, you clearly understand Tilt The Authentics clothes.

Nakatsu) Yes. You know all the nuances I want.

For example, even if I have no experience, if I convey the nuances, they will read it and give it shape.

Fukuda) That's amazing.

Mr. Yamazaki, how did you meet?

Nakatsu) Mr. Yamazaki was introduced to me by my classmates when I was a student.

Mr. Yamazaki happened to be the one who introduced me. smile

Fukuda) The pattern maker I was introduced to was a big name pattern maker. smile

That's a lot of pulling power.

Nakatsu) Yes. Without knowing anything about having more than 10,000 followers on Instagram, without knowing anything about the previous information, we met and talked, hit it off, and did the pattern of tilt the authentics. I was.

Fukuda) Huh~. Is that so.

Nakatsu) Since I was a member of a brand that had just started, it was a flat feeling, and I didn't look at Mr. Yamazaki in that way from the beginning, so on the contrary, I think that was a good thing. .

I found out all about it afterwards.

Fukuda) Huh~.

Nakatsu) It's just that he's a pattern maker whose sensibilities match mine. I just felt that it was fun to do it together.

That's why I found out about Mr. Yamazaki later, so I was convinced.

Fukuda) You made something amazing again this time.

Mr. Yamazaki picked up the nuances I thought of in the pattern, and Mr. Nakatsu has a lot of elements.

On top of that, during the sewing stage, she communicated with Maya-san, and at the end, when she sold the clothes in the store, she even created a commentary for the clothes to be exhibited.

That's amazing.

It goes beyond the realm of ordinary pattern makers.

Nakatsu) Yes. I think it's very close to being a kind of designer.

I always give Mr. Yamazaki a picture model, and I do it by the method of molding from there.

This time as well, I took the sketch that Mr. Fukuda gave me and converted it into a sketch once, and took it to Mr. Yamazaki to flesh it out.

Fukuda) Yeah yeah.

Nakatsu) Mr. Yamazaki understands my feelings and the degree of my demands, and he also understands CASANOVA&CO.

He really thought about how we could mix tilt The authentics and CASANOVA&CO.

Fukuda) You are a designer.

Nakatsu) Yes. There was no demand at all, such as that I was lacking or that I wanted it this way.

It is very important that I can ask Mr. Yamazaki with peace of mind and finish it with the balance I think.

Fukuda) Hmm.

Nakatsu) Moreover, I think it's almost a miracle that I met a pattern maker for the first time.

I think they are very compatible.

Fukuda) Huh~. Is that so.

What a great meeting. Mr. Nakatsu had many good encounters, and that's how it is now.

Nakatsu) Yes. In my case, I'm still working with the person I met for the first time. Regarding the production background.

Fukuda) Mr. Nakatsu, I think so too. smile

Nakatsu) lol. I agree. no doubt. smile

Fukuda) lol

Nakatsu) That's why the people at my current production site have supported me since I was completely unknown and I wasn't making any at all.

They are the people who knew me when I had the toughest time, so I'm even more grateful now, and I've come to feel that it's even more fun.

(Mr. Sugaya from Maya joins here)

Maya was a garment factory that took a long time to complete the transaction, so I am very happy that I was able to do this many times.

Fukuda) How was your meeting with Maya?

Was it an introduction from Mr. Yamazaki, a pattern maker?

Nakatsu and Sugaya) No, it's not.

Fukuda) What was that?

Nakatsu) Maya is Mizude from Fashion Izumi.

Fukuda) Ah, yes. It's Mr. Mizude.

Nakatsu) Until then, I had been ordering outerwear from Mr. Mizude, but as the scale of the brand grew little by little, the range of products that I made expanded, and I was looking for a new factory that could produce them. I was talking to Mr. Mizude.

When looking for a factory, it is better to talk to someone you know and actually go to the factory rather than starting from scratch yourself. I heard that.

Fukuda) Hmm. HM. HM.

Nakatsu) I asked Mr. Mizude, whom I trust, and he introduced me to Mr. Sugaya.

Fukuda) I see.

On the other hand, what kind of brand is Tilt The Authentics from your perspective?

You sew clothes from various brands, right?

Sugaya) There was such a person. That was my first impression.

Nakatsu) You were under suspicion. I.

Honestly, I want to create good products together with the factories and go out into the world together. When I told them that, they didn't believe me, and they were suspicious, or rather, they all took a stance.

Sugaya) In this day and age, there are a lot of people who say good things just like that.

Fukuda) Then, do some people say that?

Sugaya) There are people who say things like that.

I want to protect my factory. That's how you collect money.

Fukuda) Whoa.

Sugaya) Even if they say they want to protect the factory, I feel that it's not that easy, so I take a stand.

Nakatsu) Rather than wanting to protect the factory, I honestly said, "I want to make good things together" and "Please lend me your strength." I went there many times so that I could understand.

Fukuda) Previously, I heard that it was quite unusual for Maya to sew Tilt The Authentics, and that many things happened.

Nakatsu) When I first started, the policy was not to sew anything new, but to sew items from existing brands.

In such a situation, I went to talk to Maya, so it was quite a difficult situation.

Mr. Mizude introduced me to his son Tadashi.

Sugaya-san and I were close in age, so I often went to talk to him and asked him many times, "Please."

It was still quite difficult.

Fukuda) That's right.

Sugaya) After all, the president has the right to decide on the capacity of the factory.

Therefore, it was difficult to sew Mr. Nakatsu's clothes.

That's why I wanted to make Nakatsu-san's clothes, so at first, without telling my father, I sewed Tilt The Authentics at a factory in Chiba instead of a factory in Tokyo.

Fukuda) Well, in the beginning, did you tell your father that you weren't sewing Tilt The Authentics clothes, and you sewed them at a factory in Chiba?

Nakatsu and Sugaya) at the Chiba factory. smile

Nakatsu) At first, it was a shirt, wasn't it?

Fukuda) Huh~.

Sugaya) Just in the midst of this, there was a time when we lost some of our business partners due to the coronavirus pandemic.

At the same time, I created a frame for Mr. Nakatsu with Tilt The Authentics at the factory in Tokyo.

Fukuda) That's right.

So, did you know that Mr. Sugaya's father was sewing Mr. Nakatsu's clothes at a factory in Chiba then?

Sugaya) Yes. that's right.

Fukuda) There is also such a coincidence.

Nakatsu) The timing is big, isn't it?

Nakatsu) That's how Maya started sewing, but I also planned to take some time to get started.

I passed over and over again.

Fukuda) After all, until you start working together, you have to go back and forth many times.

Nakatsu) In my case, it was.

In addition to Maya, I also visited Fashion Izumi's Mizude for a year, and I went to talk to her many times.

Fukuda) That's right.

Nakatsu) There was also the situation of the factory, and I went there many times to get to know myself.

So, at Fashion Izumi, there is a timing, so let's sew just one type of shirt. That's how I started.

Little by little, we've built up to where we are today.

Fukuda) Is that so?

Nakatsu) From the beginning, you are this kind of person, so please do this kind of thing with this. I don't think it's a way to continue doing business for a long time unless you first get to know yourself and accept the job.

In particular, when it comes to manufacturing, day-to-day communication becomes necessary.

Fukuda) Yes.

Nakatsu) Fashion Izumi-san and Maya-san are the factories that I visited and started doing business with.

That's why it's so big for me.

Fukuda) Yes. yes. I see.

How about you, Mr. Sugaya? Sew Nakatsu-san's clothes.

Sugaya) Mr. Nakatsu, you changed.

Until then, the main focus was on large-scale women's clothing.

I also didn't know how to accept the job for tilt The authentics, so I started running while asking Mr. Mizude.

Now, in addition to large-scale women's work, I also undertake work for brands like Mr. Nakatsu.

Fukuda) Then, it was Nakatsu-san who opened the door to Maya-san?

Sugaya) Yes.

Thanks to Mr. Nakatsu, the work I accept has changed a little.

Nakatsu) Surprisingly, a factory that sews high-end women's ready-to-wear is sewing men's clothes for the first time, and they don't know how to sew. There are many things to say.

Fukuda) Huh~.

Sugaya) Mr. Tsuji (about Tsuji Western Clothing Store) also said that.

Nakatsu) Yes. Mr. Tsuji also told me that.

However, from my point of view, there is no problem with my specifications as long as I can sew high-quality preta materials with difficult specifications. Even if you bring the specifications, they will be more concerned about themselves, and will work on it in detail.

Fukuda) That's right.

Nakatsu) It really suits my craftsmanship.

I'm a very anxious person, and I confirm the same thing over and over again.

That's why the factories are so meticulous in their work, and I trust them so much.

Fukuda) It's very detailed.

Nakatsu) It's very detailed.

Fukuda) Mr. Nakatsu, I think there have been times since your debut season when the quality of your clothes has improved dramatically each season.

That was when you started sewing at Mr. Mizude, right?

Nakatsu) Yes. I remember Mr. Fukuda saying that.

Fukuda) I remember very well the timing when the quality of Mr. Nakatsu's clothes began to improve dramatically.

That was when you started making clothes with Yamaei Keori, Fashion Izumi, and Maya.

Nakatsu) Yes. In particular, this time's clothes are packed with the culmination of what I've done with the people I've worked with.

Fukuda) That's why I want everyone to take a good look at it.

Fukuda) Lastly, Mr. Nakatsu, please tell us what you want to do in the future and what you want to aim for.

Nakatsu) Yes. Of course, we want to be this kind of brand outwardly, and we want to make clothes like this, but...

Most of all, I'm introverted, but I want to continue making things with people I like for as long as possible.

Fukuda) Oh, I see.

Nakatsu) It's simple. Even if you look outside, the times are very fast and the situation is changing.

So, the most important thing is that I want to continue making serious clothes with the craftsmen I am involved with.

This may not sound like a designer's answer for a brand.

Fukuda) Yes. yes.

Nakatsu) If anything, I am also a craftsman, so I would like to continue making wonderful clothes with craftsmen.

People often misunderstand that it's for the sake of the factory, or that it's a factory-friendly brand, but that's not the case.

Because I like the people at the factory, because my human relationships are connected with the people at the factory.

It's not that I want to save or protect the factory, but I just like the people and work hard together.

Fukuda) Yes. yes.

Nakatsu) People sometimes say that we are a brand with good fabrics or a brand with good sewing, but that's not what I want to convey.

I really want to convey "people".

I think the people I'm working with now are the best in Japan, so I can't think of anything other than the current people.

That's why, six years after the brand started, I was able to meet such craftsmen, and I want to continue working with them. I honestly think.

Fukuda) Mr. Nakatsu's words are very honest and humane.

I would like to see Nakatsu-san's clothes, and I would like people to see the current one, and I would like to continue working together with everyone.

Nakatsu) That's true.


That's it for the interview.

As announced, Mr. Nakatsu will be in Okayama from the 15th (Sat) to the 17th (Mon), and in Tokyo from the 22nd (Sat) to the 24th (Mon).

We are looking forward to seeing the clothes this time.

First of all, we are looking forward to your visit at CASANOVA&CO in Okayama.

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