The other day, Irenisa held a limited-time event, partly because it was the brand's first spring/summer season.
The Spring/Summer season starts again this week.
Today, I would like to introduce tilt The authentics.
Three.
Like Irenisa, I have a connection with them, and I have been dealing with them since their debut season.
And the first thing to start is clothes using Tilt The authentics two-top fabric.
Deadstock and original.
Even if it is dead stock, it has a better texture over time. It's not something like that, but because of the balance of fibers and the structure of the thread, it's impossible to reproduce it because it can only be produced for that lot, so it means that we can only produce clothes as much as we currently have.
As for the originals, I don't think that the fabrics in circulation are inferior in the slightest, and there aren't many high-quality and exciting fabrics that are made as originals, so I try to look at them from an unbiased point of view. I'm doing it, but this tilt the authentics original fabric is really good.
It's a wonderful fabric that has a lot of depth and is made with a lot of thought.
Clothes made from these two fabrics.
tilt The authentics
1 Tuck Slim Trousers
material _ Wool 40%, Silk 36%, Linen 24%
color _ Melange Black
size_1,2,3
This is a trouser made with original fabric.
The mix is as you can see.
Completely original made by the brand from scratch with the cooperation and technology of the weaver.
It's a fabric that contains three types of fibers, a so-called three-part blend.
wool, silk and linen.
Wool looks black.
Silk looks whitish and has strong knots.
Linen is the intermediate gray tone thread.
It's a fabric that alternately strikes each of the warp and weft.
It is a brand that develops various fabrics, but this one has a blend ratio of 20% or more for all the fibers that make up the fabric. (Mixed ratios are listed in order of weight)
It looks very deep and expressive. this fabric.
Also, since it is the spring/summer season, the fabric is plain weave.
Thanks to that, it is a perfect touch for the season when you can feel the strong sunlight.
I feel that the original fabrics that the brand has produced so far have mainly been twill weaves, but this time it is a seasonal pattern, and in order to make the most of the texture of all three types of fibers, a plain weave is suitable. It seems that
In addition,
The wool is double-ply, with thick silk as a single yarn and linen as the top yarn as a single yarn.
A lot of positive things are happening with this.
I don't think this would be possible without it. this fabric.
In the first place, there are three stages of silk used for clothes,
・Raw silk
・Silk spinning
・Silk spun yarn
The fiber called silk is spit out from the mouth by an insect called a silkworm, which moves in a figure-eight shape, creates a cocoon ball to hold itself in, and refines it. Was it a process called boiled cocoon? In that way, impurities are removed, and I forget whether it was fibril, fibroin, or sericin, but it is born by taking out long fibers with a triangular cross section.
So, well, the process called scouring is like kneading for a few minutes, and I feel like it took 80% or 100%, but the impurities are completely removed, and you can see the most beautiful state of the silk fiber. , "raw silk".
However, the raw silk cannot be made into clothes.
It's only suitable for wedding dresses, one-time wear, and other special occasions.
The reason is that Silk, which is called the "Queen of Fibers", is extremely difficult to handle.
It has a very beautiful luster and a smooth surface, but if it gets hit by rain or if even a single drop of water gets on it, you're in trouble.
Sweat is the worst, and now the standard hand sanitizer is also THE END.
That's why it's only suitable for super dress scenes.
So, the thread that makes it possible to use a little bit of it every day, in other words, the fiber is cut short and the thread that is spun is silk spun.
But that's also a bit difficult to handle.
Well, I rarely see silk spinning, but I'll be able to show it to everyone in the future, so please wait for it. But it's for people who have a pretty good understanding of it.
So, the thread used by tilt the authentics this time is spun silk thread.
This is a by-product of silk spinning, but it's a luxury product that can't be used easily even though it's a by-product.
The brilliance of the fiber that only silk has can be seen, and the yarn is finished with a unique and uneven design.
This is what Mr. Komori of COMOLI uses, and this is what Silk 100 is all about.
A thread with a deep expression is created.
So, this fabric is 36% Silk.
That's not all.
If I write all of them, it will take too long for anyone to read them, so I will omit wool, but linen.
I use linen called Mokuito for the top.
Top refers to the dyeing process, and it is dyed in the most advanced stage, in other words, it is dyed in the state of cotton fiber before it becomes thread.
clothes are
Fiber → Yarn → Fabric → Product
Please think of it as the beginning of the beginning.
However, because it is top dyeing, it is top in many ways, so it looks very good, but it is located in the most expensive zone among dyeing.
The top-dyed linen fiber is spun into a deep heathered yarn.
Then, the wool, silk, and linen are each woven into a plain weave.
Well, the loom is also old, and it's a reason why it's an amazingly tasteful fabric.
It's a very strange finish.
I think this is Tilt The Authentics number one fabric for the 2021SS season.
Well, the fabrics used by the brand are all high-level.
Pants with 1 outtuck extending from the bottom of the loop.
side pocket.
But it's also pretty hard.
Til The Authentics has a standard detail, but generally pants pockets are POCKETs that use the switching line between the front and back, but this is usually overlooked.
The front body is hollowed out, and there is RYOUTAMA. And thin.
This kind of thing is actually important when you wear it.
When it comes to pursuing fashion in a high position.
Weird coin pocket.
The front is an Excela zipper front, the water buffalo top button is attached by hand, and it can also be used to fasten the tengu.
Hand-made waistmer belt specification, back processing piping.
No matter how you look at it, it's obvious that it's high quality.
Also, the brand and tags have changed.
Slim trousers with margins.
The shape that flows down from the hip line.
Well, it would be nice if you could try it on.
The tailored color jacket of this original fabric will also arrive at a later date.
tilt The authentics
Loose CPO Shirts Jacket
material _ Linen 35%, Cotton 31%, Nylon 18%, Silk 15%, Polyurethane 1%
color _ Dark Navy
size_1,2,3
This is Tilt The Authentics' original fabric that uses dead stock fabric from a weaver.
Mr. Nakatsu from tilt The authentics liked this fabric so much that he bought it all.
A super changing ball material with a very complex mixing ratio.
The mixing ratio itself is also special, but there is a reason to use dead stock.
This is a twill weave fabric.
The original is plain weave.
The warp is made up of linen and silk.
So, it has a bumpy surface, but those who understand it should immediately recognize it, but it's a bouclé thread. this.
In other words, a small loop of thread is created.
It's a fabric that creates shadows, but...
Sutra boucle —.
This is a very important keyword.
It's about knowing the fabric, and it's the same with this look, and it also has a big impact on the comfort of wearing. The warp is boucle.
According to Mr. Nakatsu, when fabrics are made using this type of bouclé yarn, it is usually placed in the weft rather than the warp.
So it's always the case that boucle appears in the horizontal direction.
If you can see the bouclé in the vertical direction on the clothes, it is the horizontal use of the fabric.
And this deadstock fabric.
I used bouclé yarn for the warp and made it into 3/1 twill.
3/1 Aya. It is read as "Sanichi no Aya".
3/1 means that the warp threads fly over the three weft threads and appear on the surface.
I feel like I've been seeing a lot of 2/1 Aya recently.
In this fabric, one more weft is flying over the weft, so more warp is exposed on the front.
And the slanted lines that are characteristic of twill weave are also strong on the side.
Fabric table on the left.
The right side is the back of the fabric.
I think the left side is more bumpy than the right side.
This is the proof that a lot of boucle (warp) is on the surface.
On the other hand, there are few unevenness on the back side, and diagonal lines should be clearly visible.
With this, the face has a strong expression and shadows, but the back hits are smoother than you can imagine.
So, it seems that it is already impossible to weave this fabric with bouclé on the warp.
So Mr. Nakatsu also tried to reproduce it, but it seems that it was impossible.
That's why I use deadstock stuff.
It's a super quality fabric.
It's a slightly thicker fabric that gives a sense of security, but it's assembled into a shirt shape.
In terms of patterns, it's quite complicated, and it's the sewing factory's ability to build it three-dimensionally without distortion.
It's a shirt-jacket type like this, and thick fabrics require technique to sew, so they often look frivolous and frivolous, but the corners stand out so much and the details stand out three-dimensionally. It's great to see it going up.
Then there is the shirt collar.
The collar is rather small, and the shell button at the tip of the collar is large, giving it a unique balance.
A stitch is put in the part of the original base collar and plays a role of the change.
If this stitching method is also at the same level as the factory, it is impossible.
Since it's clothing, I'll leave it up to you to decide what you like, but no matter what angle you look at it from, you'll be convinced by the quality of Tilt The Authentics clothing.
The placket is attached, the facing is made of the same material, and the backing and sewing process are ultra-careful.
Please take a look at the full size of the brand.
Sizing may be a little looser than before.
tilt The authentics
Semi Wide 6 Pocket Trousers
material _ Linen 35%, Cotton 31%, Nylon 18%, Silk 15%, Polyurethane 1%
color _ Dark Navy
size_1,2
It's too good, so I ordered the pants with the boucle fabric I mentioned earlier.
These are the thickest pants the brand has ever made.
Top button hidden in one intuck tuck, adjustable, ultra-thin bead.
This is also a marbelt specification, piping on the Excela fastener, and a large shell button.
Bouclé looks great in these elaborate and polite pants.
When it comes to pants, it feels like a year-round fabric thickness.
Deep bluish and high-quality luster. And the unevenness of the boucle.
No matter how you look at it, I think it looks like you're wearing high-quality pants.
Sleek is cotton and cupra twill.
I think the lining is pretty good quality.
The back is also well processed.
These pants have no lining, but are comfortable against the skin.
If you like it, please take a look.
In addition, I will introduce various things.
