The other day, I announced "grey machine denim".
I think some people have already guessed various things, but I prepared the fabric.
And production with that fabric
I asked Mr. Nishino from NEAT.
Raw denim that has not undergone any sorting processing after the fabric is woven.
As I wrote last time, I think there are really few gray fabrics. These days.
It's Kojima. the fabric.
Kojima in Okayama Prefecture.
There are various types of Kojima Denim, from mass-market denim fabrics that are produced in large quantities, to ultra-maniac items that have been researched and researched, from so-called vintage jeans to yarns and fibers that have been disassembled and reproduced. variation of.
And when I learned about the existence of this fabric, I really wanted to make it into a shape.
Because it's a denim fabric that seems to have been forgotten in the current fashion world.
However, I believe that this is the starting point for both those who make clothes and those who buy them.
No matter where you look in the world, the technology is now concentrated in Kojima.
Poured it to overflowing, this fabric is filled with the pride of the technician.
Dismantle, analyze, and try Levi's 501XX, which is often considered the pinnacle of denim.
Until then, there are things to see in the area of replicas.
However, this time, a professional who has done that kind of thing many times has now arrived at a selvedge denim that is a reproduction of XX.
That "raw machine".
The warp is 7th strong twist, and the weft is 7th soft twist.
I've heard that this combination of warp and weft number 7 is the most suitable thread thickness for making full use of old shuttle looms, and this is the same.
However, the strength of the twist of the thread, the combination, and the rope dyeing that I wrote in the last blog.
The number of times this rope is dyed is a super-original trade secret.
However, it is dyed in a darker indigo than ordinary denim.
Therefore, it is a design that leads to a wonderful blue contrast when worn over the years.
Indigo color in the professional world that adjusts the pH (pH) with a precise calculation of the chemical formula, calculates backwards, and produces the desired color.
"Gray denim" that allows everyone to experience the texture of the fabric as it is.
But you know,
Here's where it matters.
The biggest point was who to give shape to it.
5-pocket pants made of denim that reproduces vintage gray fabric.
So, I don't think it's any different from the American casual replica brands I've seen so far.
It already exists enough without us doing it.
And the denim fabric produced with this kind of vector is usually sewn and shaped in the neighborhood (around Kojima).
In other words, if you follow that convention, you'll end up with the so-called jeans you've seen before.
That's fine, though. Enough.
But that's not the concept this time.
I believed that the finished product would be completely different by combining the quality of NEAT's boasted trousers, even though the original denim itself would be maximized.
The reason is that even with the same pants,
This is because the process of making general jeans and NEAT trousers is fundamentally different.
And it took me more time than I thought to overcome many hurdles before I could create from that imagination and show it to everyone.
Therefore, the release date was significantly delayed from the original plan. smile
That's it.
NEAT
THE STANDARD DENIM
material _ COTTON 100% (raw denim)
color_INDIGO
size_42,44,46,48,50
Denim trousers made from Kojima denim fabric in a completely different production area.
The model is only one type of standard model among NEAT.
The most classic style, in other words, the most suitable style to combine with the original standard denim fabric, is based on the trousers with the name "STANDARD" among the brands.
just,
It was difficult to make this happen.
The reason is simple.
Because it's raw.
Like I said before, greige denim is rare these days.
That's because it can cause a lot of trouble.
At first, even if it is okay because the dough has glue,
It shrinks a lot when you wash it, it fuzzes up a lot, and it's twisted.
So it was getting less and less.
However, the benefit of the gray fabric is definitely there, and I wanted everyone to experience it.
So I did my best.
factory people. smile
First of all, the biggest disadvantage of gray denim is "shrinkage".
And that is the great enemy of NEAT.
First, NEAT assumes hemming.
Second, NEAT has a marbelt with white cloth on the inside of the waist.
This means you buy greige denim in new condition, hemm it straight up, and it's the end in one wash.
The length shrinks by about 15 cm, and the waist shrinks only in denim, not the marbelt, so it becomes a mess and a disaster.
So I did something that I normally wouldn't do with denim.
I don't think I will ever do it.
Or rather, I've never seen it.
yes.
"Fabric wash"
Usually, when you wash denim for the first time, you wash it after the product is finished.
It can be said that it is "product washing" so to speak.
In order to make the most of the beauty of NEAT's trouser construction, it is NG to let the shape of the trousers change significantly after passing through water from an unwashed state.
So, I consulted with the fabric factory and people in the area, and then had a meeting with Mr. Nishino.
However, at that stage of the discussion, the idea of applying sanforized or skewing to prevent twisting came up.
But then the concept will change.
And everyone involved in denim started to wash the fabric while saying, "I've never done it before."
However, there was also the issue of whether or not to wash the fabric, which is about 50 meters long, and how to wash it.
I washed it very carefully.
Then, "washing at the fabric stage" is applied, the fabric shrinks firmly, the skew is eliminated, and the fabric is sent to one of NEAT's leading trouser factories, which is proud of NEAT.
Well, gray denim shrinks about 10% to 15% when washed, depending on the conditions.
In addition, because the fabric is selvedge, the width of the fabric is narrow, so we were able to produce a superhumanly inefficient denim trouser that could only produce 12 NEAT pants from the denim fabric, which was about 50m per roll. rice field. smile
I've never heard of such jeans.
After all, even if you make a small estimate, you can usually make about 25 rolls from one roll.
If I were to organize and process something that wasn't Selvage, I would end up with 36 rolls per roll.
It's dangerous, isn't it? Various.
Furthermore, I asked Mr. Nishino of NEAT to fine-tune the color scheme of the stitching so that when this THE STANDARD DENIM wears out and becomes a pale blue, it will have a wonderful contrast.
Normally, it is called trousers, so it is sewn with the same color thread as the fabric, but this is just like banana yellow.
just,
Trouble also occurred in the sewing process.
If you look at the belt loop and the back of it, you will understand that THE STANDARD DENIM is not a normal jeans loop.
The belt loop sewing machine for the trouser has broken.
The reason is that the fabric was washed, so the fabric swelled and became too thick.
Even in that process, alternatives emerged, but since it is one of the details that makes you feel the precision of NEAT's construction, we asked them to fix the belt loop sewing machine and managed to give it a shape.
And what I would like everyone to see is the fineness of the stitchwork exposed on this surface.
This is also a product unique to the trouser factory.
Normally, a denim sewing factory would have thick yellow sewing thread, but it was the trouser factory that sewed this for me.
That's why I used the thread for sewing trousers, not the thread for ordinary jeans.
Because it is thin against the fabric, it looks like a dot and the stitch is buried in the fabric.
Is it possible to change not only the color of the sewing thread but also the type of sewing thread using cotton thread? I asked, but I don't have one. I was told by the trouser factory, so it is sewn with polyester sewing thread.
But don't worry, they're stronger.
For this powerful fabric, this thin and delicate stitchwork,
Seriously no other. As long as you don't aim for it.
There are more.
buttonhole.
This is the same as the old jeans, with the "back female" specification.
In other words, after the shape of the buttonhole has been cut, a notch is made with a scalpel.
That's why threads are gushing out of the holes.
This is a normal specification for NEAT, but in general clothes, it is customary to cut a slit in the fabric with a scalpel first, and then sew the buttonhole.
It looks more beautiful that way, but the "back knife" is superior in terms of durability of the buttonhole.
Unexpected but positive result that fits the concept of THE STANDARD DENIM.
Normally, NEAT trousers have a center press, but since this is a gray fabric, if you put a center press in, the fuzz will burn, so there is no center press.
Therefore, please wear it from a brand new state, wash it repeatedly, and transform it into the owner's specification.
Well, for the first step, it might be better to keep wearing it for 3 to 6 months without washing it, depending on how often you wash it right away.
This is because it is necessary to make the fabric unique to the wearer.
How you wear it is up to you, but I recommend not washing it for a while.
Nowadays, it may feel like an anachronism to wear jeans like that, but I think it would be a good idea to practice how to get along with jeans like the classic denim enthusiasts do.
So this.
A sample that I have been wearing every day since January 5th of this year.
Since it's a sample, the specifications of the colored threads are slightly different, but I really wore it every day.
I have washed it about 6 times.
I said earlier that I shouldn't wash it for 3 months, but I wash it more often than other people and I wear it for a long time a day, so in just under 2 months, it's about 2 years worth of the average person. I think I wore it. smile
Fluff has come off from frequent rubbing, and the white marks are exposed.
However, there is still a lot of rope dyeing, and the dark color is still there.
I think we can have a very long relationship.
this.
Since I ride a bicycle, my buttocks are easy to hit, and my knees are often on my knees, so my knees are white.
I think that the appearance after 3 years will change completely depending on the wearer.
And this.
The hem is sewn 2 cm wide.
There are other options such as chain stitching and hand-stitching, but considering the fineness of the stitching threads for the pants and the balance with the fabric, I think that the vest should be stitched 2cm from the hem.
If it's a chain, the stitches will be thicker at the hem, and it can be worn a little casually, so I think this is better than the Tematsuri, which is invisible.
NEAT
THE STANDARD DENIM
I think we have created something very good.
There are countless denim pants in the world, but there is definitely no similarity.
The quality of the fabric, the beauty of the construction of NEAT, the three-dimensional details, and the beauty of the curvilinear outline are still alive.
It will be on sale at the store from 12:00 on Saturday, February 27th.
Also, Mr. Nishino from NEAT will be there on the 27th and 28th.
Please look forward to.
I'll introduce you again.
