Taiga Takahashi "The Roaring Twenties"
Taiga Takahashi, a brand that debuted from the previous autumn/winter season.
In December of this year, a brand-owned store opened in Gion, Kyoto, and the space is well-crafted.
I haven't been there yet.
From today, we have started the spring/summer collection, which is the new season of the brand.
"Roaring Twenties"
A collection focused on 100 years ago.
The era of mass production and mass consumption began in the United States in the 1920s.
The American-style capitalist society changed not only clothes, but also manufacturing in various productions.
It is an era in which the tradition of emphasizing careful and manual work by craftsmen has changed to a system that allows mass production.
The workwear worn by hard workers who underpin the economy is a key to deciphering the historical background.
Simplification of clothes by straight stitching and planar patterns.
All of them are made of fabric and designed to withstand heavy work.
When Mr. Takahashi of Taiga Takahashi saw the clothes of that time, he felt that they were in line with the design of Japanese kimonos.
All traditional Japanese kimonos are cut in a straight line and have a flat shape.
And it's something that can be handed down from generation to generation.
Its beauty.
The collection named "The Roaring Twenties" is a collection of clothes based on that idea.
Mr. Takahashi, the designer of Taiga Takahashi, does not consider himself a "designer", nor does he call himself a "designer".
Being an "archaeologist". and.
Reviving the relics of the past in the present age, through it, research the background and characteristics of clothes making.
That is Taiga Takahashi.
For the first timing of this new season, there are four types.
Today, I will introduce it briefly.
Taiga Takahashi
DENIM JACKET C.1920'S
material_COTTON 100%
color_RAW INDIGO
size_36,38,40
*Size 40 is sold out.
A denim jacket that has been produced since its debut season.
Appears in something different than the first season.
The fabric is the original left twill.
Denim has a strong unevenness, and it's a denim that has a lot of NEP.
The first season was an art deco-like carved snap button front, but this time it's a tuck button.
This button is also original.
All "iron".
Moreover, it does not have any rust prevention.
Therefore, if you wear it, it will rust soon.
In modern times, iron is not used for clothes, but in this collection, all the parts attached to the clothes are original, and the parts attached to denim etc. are made from "iron". .
At first, it's dark blue and shiny clothes, but as you use it, the fabric and the parts go together at once.
At the dawn when you keep wearing it, a terrible appearance is waiting for you.
Some of the samples at the exhibition had already begun to rust even though it had only been a short time since they were produced.
Even if it's okay for the rust color to transfer to the denim, please be a little careful with other clothes, such as white items.
However, this kind of thing is not used in modern times, so enjoy uncoated iron.
With a mud-dyed leather patch, the buttonhole sewing machine was remodeled and the teardrop-shaped buttonholes of the time were arranged.
Also, the patterns are very different.
I made it based on the one from that time, but the armhole is vertical to the ground.
This is an arm with a surprising amount of momentum.
Taiga Takahashi
DENIM TROUSERS C.1920'S
material_COTTON 100%
color_RAW INDIGO
size_28,30,32,34
*28,32,34 sold out
Old-style jeans made from the same original left-hand twill denim as before.
As you can see, it comes with belt loops, but it also comes with suspender tuck buttons and needle cinch backs attached to the waist.
The rivets on the pocket opening are all exposed, and the leather patch is mud-dyed in Amami Oshima.
The rise is deep, and it looks like something from the 1920s.
The top buttonhole on the waist band is also a rough teardrop type.
It is a buttonhole that cannot be made without remodeling an old sewing machine.
You won't know once you've put it on, but it's clothes that are made by accumulating small details like this.
It's an important specification.
The shape that becomes the motif is not Levi's.
Foremost from JCPenny.
Taiga Takahashi
DB CARDIGAN
material_SILK 100%
color_IVORY
size_36,38,40
Round neck cardigan with short double front.
The double design button is a nut button with plant dyeing.
Judging from this feeling, I think that the silk used is spun silk thread.
When counted with the naked eye, the thread is woven with four parallel lines.
The motif is a photograph of two men that seems to have been taken in the United States in the 1910s.
He seems to have been wearing a newsboy cap and a double-breasted, collarless knit with two rows of buttons. Like what you are.
From the photo, Mr. Takahashi extracted as much as possible the parts that can be visually confirmed, and designed a collarless cardigan with detailed specifications in his head.
Taiga Takahashi
AUTOMOBILE JACKET
material_HORSE LEATHER
color_BLACK
size_40
This is based on an American-made 1930s leather jacket found in New York where Mr. Takahashi lives.
As you can see in the photo, the arm was swung forward, and it seems that it was a remnant of the time when people still rode "horses" instead of cars.
It's rare in recent years, and I think that those who like the feeling of wearing it will be fully satisfied with the heavy and thick leather.
A shade that puts black on top of brown horse leather.
It reproduces the traditional "brown core" leather.
So, as you continue to wear it, the leather will naturally fit your upper body, and the black surface will come off in places where it rubs frequently, revealing the "brown core" of the base.
Although it is a fully lined specification, even the lining is an original fabric.
Thin blanket-like plain weave of 74% wool and 26% cotton.
The wool is undyed and retains its color as it is.
The fan-shaped zipper on the front and the bakelite buttons on the cuffs are all art deco engraved.
At the time of its debut, it was about 500,000 yen due to the fact that it was dyed with mud, but this time I think the price is a very good balance for this weight.
Taiga Takahashi
HICKOK BELT
material _COW LEATHER
color_DOUBLE MUD DYED BROWN
size_ONE SIZE
This is the belt that has appeared since the debut season.
A belt made from cowhide that has been mud-dyed twice in Amami Oshima.
Mud dyeing leather is quite a hurdle, but it's unique to a brand that cherishes that "Japanese black".
The buckle is engraved like other clothes, but there is a blank space in the center, which was used to put the initials of the owner in those days.
I reproduce it as it is.
One size free.
There is no stitching on the leather, no lining, and it shrinks a little when dyed, so I think it will stretch out as you use it.
This is the first delivery for this spring/summer season, so I hope you will enjoy what we have now and what will come in the future.
Take a look.