Today, I'll introduce a brand that I'm featuring for the second time on this blog.
seventyfive.
We started carrying this brand in the Fall/Winter season a year ago, which is when I first introduced it on this blog.
Although we also carried it for this year's Spring/Summer season, due to various personal circumstances, I wasn't able to feature it on this blog.
But this time, please let me introduce it.
I first encountered this brand in Paris.
It seems that it's still not widely available in Japan, but I believe it's a brand that makes truly excellent products.
In fact, I think it's good enough that I'd like various buyers in Japan to see it.
While the clothing has a different nuance from the mainstream fashion sensibility in Japan right now, there's something unique to seventyfive hidden in every detail of their garments.
I didn't know about the brand at all until I met them myself, but I vividly remember being deeply impressed by their garment making when I saw the actual products.
Incidentally, the brand name seventyfive was chosen because the designer didn't really care what the name was, and the studio in London where the brand is based is at "number 75."
So, that's why it's called seventyfive.
The characteristic of this brand is that the designer, Janny (a woman) who has Chinese roots, designs and sews the clothes herself.
You'd think I'd like that, wouldn't you?
However, it's certainly not the case that anything sewn by hand or entirely by oneself is automatically good; the level of skill is absolutely crucial.
The "atelier sewing" done by seventyfive is incredibly meticulous and beautiful.
To an astonishing degree.
My personal theory is that if the person who designed (or planned) something sees it through to completion themselves, and the result looks very refined, then they must have poured an immense amount of time, effort, and spirit into the process of reaching that finished form. Absolutely.
Conversely, one could say that it looks refined precisely because so much time, effort, and spirit have been invested.
I learned this very well from brands like Araki Yuu and MOTHER HAND artisan, which I've carried for a long time.
And now, seventyfive, which I'm introducing today.
The designer of this brand puts a lot of thought into making clothes.
They are extremely meticulous.
By putting so much care into each tiny element that constitutes a garment and personally bringing it into form, the collection of these elements creates clothes that radiate an aura.
So, I'd like to introduce you to seventyfive's clothes.
seventyfive
Student's Jacket
fabric _ Leichtfried Loden 540g
material _ Merino Wool 80%,Alpaca 20%
color _ Marsh
size _ 2,3
First, this.
As you can see, it's a short blouson-style outer jacket.
The fabric is "Loden cloth" from Leichtfried in Austria, a renowned name.
Loden cloth is a traditional and highly respectable fabric; I perceive it as being so prestigious that there's an image of "getting a coat tailored from Loden cloth when you turn 40 or 50."
There's tweed, which is another widely recognized fabric for autumn and winter, but I believe Loden cloth is far superior in status to tweed.
Among them, Leichtfried in Austria is a long-established specialist in Loden cloth.
Furthermore, among the Loden cloths produced by Leichtfried, the one blended with alpaca fiber, rather than 100% wool, is said to be exceptional, as it maintains traditional manufacturing methods to this day.
Despite being a substantial fabric, it boasts a fine, uniform nap, luster, and suppleness.
It will require some "training" when you first start wearing it, but I believe everyone will feel its luxuriousness and the superior quality of the fabric.
And since the fabric weight (or basis weight) is "540g," it's guaranteed to be a fully effective outer layer for the Japanese deep winter.
Roughly speaking, when the fabric weight exceeds 500g, you can imagine it being used for winter coats.
A slightly open collar, and an extremely rare, narrow breast welt pocket.
There are seven front buttons, which is quite a few.
Are these buttons buffalo horn? They're painted by hand.
Speaking of seventyfive... this is it.
Look at the collar tip.
The stitching is incredibly fine.
Well, when I say "speaking of seventyfive," I don't think it's widely recognized yet. *laughs*
This fine stitching on an outer jacket made of heavy fabric.
The threads look like dots.
The two stitches across the neck stand on the underside of the collar are also amazing.
By the way, regarding the brand tag, in the four lines, if you divide it into left and right halves in the middle, and count the red dots and lines, the left half has 7 and the right half has 5.
It's a mark that represents seventyfive.
As mentioned before, the width of the breast welt pocket and the shape of the side pocket flaps immediately show the elaborate detail.
The back features a classic large center pleat.
A waistband piece is sewn on at the end of the pleat.
Side vents.
Surgeon's cuffs.
The "額縁仕立て (gakubuchi-jitate)" or picture frame finish is also beautiful.
Inside.
seventyfive's insides are also amazing.
The high quality is immediately apparent from the construction and finish of the inside.
The "Odaiba-jitate" (bay-shaped construction) and the fabric changes in many rounded areas.
The lining is 100% brushed cotton from Carlo Bassetti in Italy.
This lining fabric was used as the outer fabric for other garments in the collection.
It looks amazing just from the photos, doesn't it?
seventyfive still produces a small number of items, so we communicate with the brand, discuss the existing garment shapes in their collection, and request them to "make this with this fabric."
Janny, who designed the clothing shapes herself, listens to my requests and discusses how to make them as we proceed with the order. This ensures that the shape of the clothing, the fabric, and the design are perfectly matched in the final product.
They don't just consider the visible exterior when worn, but also painstakingly think about and create the specifications, finishing, and comfort of the inside.
Therefore, while there's no flashy appeal, the results are excellent, and I believe that the garments created one by one in this manner ultimately turn out to be incredibly stylish clothes.
I am 167cm tall, weigh 52kg, am 33 years and 10 months old, and have been smoke-free for 1 month. I'm wearing the smaller size 2.
For me, size 2 offers a very good size balance, but this jacket has a rather sharp design.
To compare, I think the sizing impression is similar to brands like BIEK VERSTAPPEN, John Alexander Skelton, and Araki Yuu.
Size 2 might be for people up to about 170cm tall.
And size 3 might be for those just under 180cm.
So, size 2 feels like an S, and size 3 feels somewhere between an M and L, I guess?
Well, you'll understand when you actually try it on.
Last autumn/winter, I had a coat made from the same Leichtfried Loden cloth, and it was incredibly dependable in the deep winter.
This blouson also uses the same fabric, so it's quite thick and suitable for winter, and you can also feel the natural, lustrous texture of the high-quality raw materials.
This type of short outer garment isn't very common in recent years, but I think it's been made into something very cool.
The Student's Jacket feels incredibly robust and gives off a strong sense of being a long-lasting companion.
seventyfive
Tapered Trousers with Beltloop
fabric _ Leichtfried Loden 540g
material _ Merino Wool 80%,Alpaca 20%
color _ Marsh
size _ 1,2,3
Next, this.
These are pants made from the same fabric as the jacket I just showed, featuring abundant details.
I think these pants also boast an incredible coolness.
Last season, when we first started carrying seventyfive, we offered this exact style of pants in different fabric colors, from size 1 to 3, and despite being pants from an unknown brand, they sold out immediately.
They are very distinctive but possess a considerable charm.
The waist has plenty of details! *laughs*
These are pants where you fold the large waist, both left and right, inwards and tie them with a linen tape to wear them.
There are two front pockets on each side, so four pockets on the front alone.
This time, we've incorporated several improvements, after discussing with the brand, from the model we carried last year.
Last year's model didn't have a front opening, but now it's buttoned.
This makes it possible to quickly relieve oneself.
Also, because the Leichtfried Loden cloth is thick, the fly with sewn buttons has been changed to high-density cotton to reduce bulk.
Similarly, the waist facing has also been entirely switched to cotton.
Also, as mentioned earlier, Leichtfried Loden has a fabric weight of 540g, which means it's a heavy fabric. This created a problem where the front would slide down during wear.
To address this, seventyfive came up with a method of securing it from the inside with a different fabric and buttons.
Since the unique shape of these trousers cannot be achieved without the front-folding design, a specification that balances both was adopted.
Then, at the very last minute of the order, I requested, "Oh, please add belt loops as well."
That's why the product name is "with Beltloop," and it comes with belt loops.
This.
The distinctive paneling makes you imagine the charm of its form even when it's on a hanger.
You can feel the quality of the fabric, and despite its thickness, you can see the excellent sewing technique used for the fabric changes.
Back.
High-backed waist with a minimalist pocket utilizing the paneling.
Inside.
Just like the jacket I mentioned earlier, it has a cotton flannel lining from Italy's Carlo Bassetti.
The outer fabric of these trousers is originally coat fabric, after all.
Moreover, it has a soft, voluminous cotton full lining.
This prevents bagging at the knees from repeated wear, is gentle on the skin, and is incredibly warm.
These are pants designed to be worn "no patch (no tights)" in the dead of winter. *laughs*
Wearing them.
They have a distinctive rounded silhouette that tapers sharply at the hem.
And the length is set to be slightly shorter.
The substantial Loden cloth highlights the shape of these trousers.
I'm wearing size 1.
At 167cm tall, 52kg, with a slender waist in the 60cm range, a body type uncommon for an older man, seventyfive's size 1 pants accommodate such "waist refugees" remarkably well.
The fit allows me to wear them without a belt, even with my body type.
Well, if you use the belt loops that were added, it's invincible for anyone, no matter how slender. Size 1, that is.
The generously cut waist is folded and secured, and the leg volume is designed with that in mind.
I think this outline is very well done.
seventyfive
Tapered Trousers with Beltloop
fabric _ Silk Wool Loden
material _ Silk 65%,Wool 35%
color _ Raven
size _ 1,2,3
Next, this.
These are the same style of trousers as before.
But these, the fabric is...
"Silk and wool loden cloth."
I've never encountered such fabric before.
Silk uses "raw silk" with many raw silk threads bundled into a single ply, then twisted into a two-ply yarn, and the wool is also a two-ply yarn, resulting in a very high-density fabric. This is what seventyfive showed me, saying "we have this kind of fabric too."
I recall that the brand's collection featured women's long dresses made from this fabric.
It's a "silk and wool Loden cloth" woven in England.
I genuinely wanted to use this fabric.
In the brand's collection, the long dresses were very glamorous.
I thought that if I made trousers out of it, they would turn out to be quite impactful.
So, I had them use this fabric and adopt the trouser shape that I believe best brings out seventyfive's appeal.
Look at this.
Trousers that shine brilliantly when seen in the light.
Especially around the waist, there are so many details, which really highlights the contrast.
This one also features a full cotton lining.
While the previous Loden cloth trousers had a warm cotton flannel lining suitable for deep winter, these have a soft, plain-weave shirt fabric as the lining.
Despite the fabric's density, these are incredibly lightweight trousers. By making them fully lined, I wanted them to be wearable from the current season until April, and also prevent bagging at the knees or losing their shape, which is why I had them made with this specification.
These trousers also have parts sewn in to enhance the fit when worn.
By the way, the fabric used for the waistband facing and tabs is also a Japanese-made shirt fabric from the collection.
This is also size 1.
The silk-wool Loden fabric has strong resilience, which allows the outline of the trousers to be very clearly defined.
I think this fabric really accentuates the silhouette, which starts fitted at the waist, then expands roundly at the thighs, and finally tapers sharply.
With a large single pleat at the front, the back feels like a compact design.
The extra room at the front means there's no issue with movement, and the line from the compact rear comes out sharply.
I think these trousers create a pretty excellent silhouette from every angle, 360 degrees around.
On top of that, Janny's sewing is incredibly detailed and super durable.
You can use it with confidence.
seventyfive
Student's Jacket
fabric _ 1960s Eastern China Vintage Handwoven Cloth
material _ Cotton 100%
color _ Vintage
size _ 2,3
Finally, this.
A different fabric version of the jacket I introduced first.
This fabric is amazing too.
I thought it was a print replicating a basket weave, like a bag woven from plant fibers.
The vertical and horizontal patterns appear to alternately rise and fall, making it look exactly like a print.
This fabric was hand-spun and hand-woven in Eastern China in the 1960s, apparently.
The threads were hand-spun, dyed with natural dyes, and then woven by women of the time using home looms.
Janny, the designer of seventyfive, seems to have Chinese roots, so it appears she possesses a variety of Chinese fabrics from around 60 years ago.
The fabrics made on domestic hand looms back then had inconsistent widths, ranging from narrow ones of 45cm to wider ones of about 60cm.
Modern fabrics generally have a width of 140cm, don't they?
Janny said that those old Chinese fabrics possess characteristics that are not seen today.
I also saw various stocks that Janny had, and among them, this fabric, which I had never seen before, caught my eye.
To think that something like this existed in the past...
There's no more of the same fabric left, and the fabric width is quite narrow.
Therefore, as seen here, there isn't enough fabric width for a single garment, so the brand meticulously sews and connects pieces together.
Because of the fabric, only one piece each of sizes 2 and 3 can be produced, making it a very rare fabric, I think.
In addition, with seventyfive's sewing, a truly remarkable item has been created.
Inside.
This also features a full lining, and the lining is the same Italian flannel as the Loden cloth series.
Since it's hand-woven cotton, it's not exactly a heavy outer layer, but thinking that I might never see it again, I ordered it with the image of being able to wear it from now until about March.
The sleeves are the same.
Even though it's hand-spun and hand-woven fabric, I initially couldn't believe it because the fabric was so stiff.
I got a small scrap of the fabric sample, pulled out a thread, and unraveled it, and the thread instantly swelled up.
So, even among hand-spun threads, the twist in the spinning might be quite strong.
This means the fabric itself is probably quite robust.
This is also size 2.
When viewed from a distance, due to it being an old fabric, there are subtle variations in color within the garment, I feel.
Although it's an extremely rare fabric, it's best to wear it casually, without too much fuss. Since it's cotton, you don't have to worry about anything.
Since the fabric has seams where it's pieced together, I think the overall mood will harmonize better once it's worn and aged.
You'll probably see changes that you haven't experienced with other fabrics.
Oh, and by the way.
seventyfive also handles bags like this, and they're incredible.
It's a two-layer bag made from fabric traditionally crafted by ethnic minorities in southeastern China.
It shines brightly, feels hard to the touch, and has a texture that's difficult to describe.
This fabric is made from hand-woven cotton, first indigo-dyed.
Next, it's steeped in a dyeing solution mixed with "ox blood," "madder," and "tree bark."
Then, it's coated with "egg white."
Finally, the cloth is repeatedly beaten, resulting in a glossy, tough, paper-like fabric.
This brand does such wild things.
This bag is also pretty cute.
It's been a while since I introduced seventyfive, but if you look at their clothing, I think you'll really get a sense of their abundant approach to garment making.
They have an intensity about them.
If you're interested, please check it out.