The event we had planned has been postponed for a week, and we apologize to everyone who was looking forward to it.
It took more than two years to make this happen, so we felt it was necessary to make sure it was in perfect condition for everyone to see, so we decided to postpone it.
Also, the introductions that we would like to announce in advance have been temporarily suspended, so today we will continue from the previous article.
nonnotte × Kaneta Orimono × Fashion Izumi × CASANOVA&CO
"Twill Drape Twill -Suvin Gold Supreme-"
I would like to introduce the "twill weave version" of Suvin Gold Supreme.
Last time I introduced...
"Plain weave Clear Heavy Broad -Suvin Gold Supreme-"
This fabric takes full advantage of the charm of ultra-high-quality raw materials and is designed to ``enjoy the original taste of the ingredients.''
On the other hand, today's item is made by Kaneta Orimono.
The idea behind the dough is to "enjoy the best taste by seasoning wonderful ingredients."
And, as I mentioned in a previous blog, twill clothes are
・Two Sides of The Same Coat
・Two Sides of The Same Wide Trousers
That is,
"two sides of the same coin = two sides of the same coin"
As it expresses,
Both are "double specifications".
Once you put it on, it's so comfortable that you'll want to keep wearing it forever.
When the season comes to wear something comfortable, it's the kind of skin your body always wants.
As for the rest, well, this type of "double-layered" clothing, as Nonnotte's Mr. Sugihara says, means that if you use cheap raw materials and fabrics and create double-layered clothing like this one, the fabrics will not touch each other. It seems that the "fuzz" sticks together and cannot be used as clothes.
Therefore, please think of this "double specification" structure as a reflection of the confidence of those involved.
And, the twill version named "Drape Twill -Suvin Gold Supreme-" is incredible.
``Brightness'', ``feeling faded'', and ``skin feel''.
By making it double layered, we can ensure its durability, and together with Mr. Sugihara, we created clothes that can be used in a super-dimensional way.
Let me introduce you.
nonnotte × Kaneta Orimono × Fashion Izumi × CASANOVA&CO
<Drape Twill -Suvin Gold Supreme->
Two Sides of The Same Coat
material _ Suvin Gold Supreme 100%
color _ Amphora
size _ SM,ML
Here.
This coat shows off Sugihara's draping technique.
By the way, as a preface, this photo was taken with priority given to showing the details, so it does not show the quality of the fabric at all. lol
I hope people will think that the real thing is on a different level than today's photos.
First of all, when it came to the coat, Mr. Sugihara put a lot of thought into designing the appeal of the fabric called "Drape Twill -Suvin Gold Supreme-" and making sure to make the most of it.
Therefore, the result is a finish that allows you to feel the movement and power of the fabric.
And when I think about it in detail, I feel that it is full of ``amazing theories'' that go far beyond what Japanese designers can create.
As with all things, Japanese people tend to think about things within a set framework.
I think the same thing can be said about the process of making and designing clothes.
So, when it comes to coats, most of the common domestic brands that exist in the world come from similar origins.
However, I think this one is able to go far beyond that framework.
That's because Mr. Sugihara used his ``draping from scratch'' technique that he had developed over many years to try and achieve the desired shape over and over again.
In addition, Fashion Izumi successfully passed the extremely difficult sewing specifications and combined Kaneta Orimono's fabric with Sugihara's design.
Such an amazing coat.
It may not be clothing that everyone can wear, but we took the time to create it while imagining the people who would like it, even though the production numbers are limited.
First of all, there are three buttons visible on the front.
Considering the balance of the court, I installed it at a fairly high position.
Well, I don't think you'll want to fasten all three buttons on the front.
The reason why the button closure was placed so high is to prevent much of the fabric from being draped in place even if the garment is worn with the buttons fastened.
The button position was designed to reduce the amount of fabric when viewed from the front.
As for the stitch work, most of the sewing parts of the coat are "edge stitch" at the edges of the fabric.
As I mentioned earlier, the buttons are half-grilled buffalo bones.
The plain weave fabric is undyed Suvin Gold Supreme, so I think this button looks very familiar.
On the other hand, I think the twill weave has a good contrast with Amphora, the color of ancient pottery.
I'm sure everyone has different tastes about this, but I wanted to bring out the nuance of the buttons, so I attached grilled buffalo bones.
There are a total of 5 buttons on the front neck.
The design allows it to be fastened as a double with a deep front, or as a single.
However, the best way to make the most of the mood of the coat is to wear it unbuttoned.
It's like just throwing it on.
The back view shows off the shine of the fabric and Fashion Izumi's edge stitching.
Collar, front and back body switching, armholes.
And the stitching on the back to prevent split seams.
Kaneta Orimono's fabric is amazing, as it uses the Suvin Gold Supreme material and gives it the "best seasoning."
And the edges are sewn with perfect pitch by Fashion Izumi.
The beauty of this combination is unparalleled.
I think you'll get an overwhelming sense of the quality of the finished product if you see the real thing.
I think you'll be blown away by the intense touch of "Suvin Gold Supreme" that you've never experienced before.
It's amazing fabric.
Seriously, this is terrible. this is.
And the sleeves.
The cuffs are also made with edge stitching, which utilizes Fashion Izumi's best technique, ``shirt sewing.''
Of course, not only the body but also the sleeves are double layered, but I wanted to wear this coat like a shirt during the spring and summer seasons.
As I said earlier, it feels like you just throw it on.
So, in those seasons, I'm thinking of wearing it by folding the cuffs like a shirt and rolling up the sleeves.
Since I had envisioned wearing it that way, I didn't include any buttons or adjustable straps on the cuffs.
I didn't want it to look too much like THE coat.
Also, the "Sugihara magic" is actually hidden in the "sleeves" themselves.
One of the things I asked Mr. Sugihara to do when shaping the coat this time was to design the "armholes" to be smaller .
The reason for this is that I like thin armholes for a voluminous body.
Of course, if it's a mid-winter coat, it's inevitable to make the armholes larger in consideration of the fact that you'll be wearing a lot of innerwear.
However, with this coat, I don't plan on being able to handle the depths of winter.
When it comes to large armholes, I'm not very good at making them look like baggy sleeves.
Therefore, I asked them to be conscious of making the armholes ``smaller than the size of the body.''
Then Mr. Sugihara said that it had the smallest armhole in nonnotte's history. lol
The armholes are about that size, but don't worry, they don't look unnatural or extremely small.
On top of that, arm.
"The sleeve itself."
As mentioned above, I asked for the armholes to have a compact structure, but the sleeves themselves were not designed to be slender.
This is extremely important...
Although the armholes are designed to be small compared to the length of the coat, the sleeves themselves have a moderate amount of volume.
The form of the sleeves created by Mr. Sugihara is so beautiful.
Furthermore, as you can see from the photo above, the right side of the photo is the front side.
You can see that the sleeves naturally flow and swing forward a little bit.
This specification is usually realized with a "double sleeve" structure.
But, this coat.
It's a "single sleeve".
It is customary to create double-sleeved sleeves, that is, two pieces of sleeves joined together.
However, for this coat, one piece of fabric (strictly speaking, the lining is also made of the same fabric, so it's two pieces of fabric overlapping) is made into a tube shape.
Normally, the sleeve shape of a single-sleeved shirt falls straight down along the side of the body.
However, Mr. Sugihara used the ``small armholes'' to create ``the fullness of the sleeves,'' and on top of that, he used draping to create a structure that ``allows the sleeves to swing forward naturally .''
This is amazing.
Moreover, this coat,
Look again.
There is no "side line" seam on the side of the body.
The structure has no side lines, and the single sleeve gives off the volume of the sleeve while creating the form of the arm.
Normally, if you can add a side line, it will be easier to continue with it and make it into two sleeves.
However, for this coat, I prioritized not interfering with the Suvin Gold Supreme fabric. Mr. Sugihara.
That's why they created a wonderful volume and form for the sleeves, even though there were no side lines.
But, but, but,
That's not all.
Here's where it gets dangerous. Leap further.
This is the center of the back.
There is a switch in the back.
Switched seam on the back. However, there are no such seams on the sides.
In other words, the left and right bodice are each made of one continuous piece of fabric.
But you know,,,
Please look again.
Before.
behind.
The amount of fabric and the way the drape is done in the front and back are completely different.
The difference between this before and after without having to "switch aside".
This reason...
Please look carefully. . .
If you zoom in on the fabric of the front body, you will see that the direction of the fabric, the "grain of the ground", is straight.
for,,,
This is an enlargement of the back center fabric.
Do you understand? ?
On the front, the grain of the fabric is straight.
However, the fabric on the back is biased (45 degrees diagonal).
What's more, it's "one continuous state" without switching.
By using this "bias in the back", the drape of the "Suvin Gold Supreme twill fabric", which is already flowing, is taken to an even more ultra-sneaky level.
this.
This flowing drape of fabric is created by designing the eyes of the fabric on the bias.
If this were a normal, vertical grain of the ground, it would never reach this level.
And this time, the back has a belt of the same fabric that can be removed with a button.
This belt is not just a functional belt, but a belt that brings together the drapes on the back of the body to create an "attractive drape."
It's okay to remove it like this.
When you attach a belt, the drape is concentrated at the back of the body,
When you remove the belt,
"Suvin Gold Supreme flows all over the surface" with an impressive A-line shape.
In this way, the front body has a straight vertical grain , but the back body has a biased structure without side lines , which is definitely impossible with programming or planar design patterns. is.
Ms. Sugihara uses the ``draping technique'' to assemble clothes one by one with her eyes and hands, as if creating a three-dimensional object.
Clothes that are made by following a theory of the direction of the fabric would never be able to produce clothes.
This really sets the mood for the coat that screams.
And for me, because of this form of the coat , this color called "Amphora" exists.
In terms of the timeline of creating this garment, the time when Mr. Sugihara was working on the draping of the coat coincided with the time when he was deciding on the color of the fabric.
At that time, I imagined the coat that Mr. Sugihara was making in full swing in my head, and then I imagined the final destination of the clothes that I was aiming for, coloring the goal. I was thinking.
The overwhelming Suvin Gold Supreme fabric shines and sways while revealing its amazing shadows.
Additionally, in my mind, this coat is not meant to be worn neatly and with care.
I recommend my customers not to wash Ferreira Mohair fabrics, and I don't really think about washing them myself.
However, with this Suvin Gold Supreme fabric, I only think about washing all four types of clothes.
That's why the incredibly drapey coat becomes fluffy with repeated washing and use, but it still maintains an indelible luster.
Suvin Gold Supreme's twill fabric with a sweet twist design has a "fluff" and "indelible shine".
One day, this well-worn coat, which has been used over and over again, will look antique, and although it may not be modern, it will remind you of the era in which it was made. I was aiming for a ``mood that only this coat can have'' that you would have no idea about.
So, for that purpose, the color "Amphora" was the only one I needed. Inside me.
The aim was to create a coat that had an "absolute sense of luxury" and was welcomed to wear out.
In that sense, a new product may be too beautiful.
I've already washed it twice.
Hand wash and machine wash once.
I may or may not take a photo and post it again.
Of course, mine is still a "chick coat" that is still in development.
I'd love for people to see it because I'm wearing it in the store, but I don't think there are really that many coats that are as beautiful as they are worn out .
Especially with "cotton".
That's why this coat takes on that challenge with the strongest lineup.
And the back.
As the name "Two Side of The Same Coat" suggests, the lining is also made of the same "Suvin Gold Supreme" twill fabric.
The interlining that supports the clothes is used as little as possible, and only to the extent that it is barely reflected on the outside.
By doing so, I concentrate on bringing out the mood of the fabric.
There is a fairly large pocket on the inside, and this part has a "three-layer structure", which is designed to maintain its shape like a hair core.
Of course, the entire surface is "double structure".
In particular, the back section is "double" with bias as mentioned above.
Bias makes sewing incredibly difficult.
If you sew it too easily, the seams will stretch out.
Furthermore, as I think everyone will understand once they touch the actual product, this fabric is difficult to sew.
Fashion Izumi was able to sew it with an absolutely amazing workmanship even though there were multiple levels of difficulty such as ``bias'', ``double stitch'', and ``fabric that moves uncontrollably''.
I'm so impressed with this.
This technology is amazing.
Mr. Mizuide of Fashion Izumi said that out of the four clothes he chose this time, the coat was the most difficult. lol
Although the plain weave pants have the same double layer, the waist and hem are sewn together, but the twill weave pants have a plush hem that is not sewn.
The reason is to maximize the drape of the swaying fabric.
By the way, even the power button on the back is made from grilled buffalo bone.
This coat has an incredibly high hurdle to sew, but no matter how you look at the back, it's sewn beautifully.
If you can actually see it, please flip it over and take a look.
I think it's a fabric that looks great even with fine wrinkles.
I also wash and bleach my clothes, and I think that using them in this way creates clothes that look great on you.
and,,,
last.
nonnotte × Kaneta Orimono × Fashion Izumi × CASANOVA&CO
<Drape Twill -Suvin Gold Supreme->
Two Sides of The Same Wide Trousers
material _ Suvin Gold Supreme 100%
color _ Amphora
size_S,M,L
Here.
Wide pants in the same twill weave Suvin Gold Supreme as the coat.
The coat is available in 2 sizes, but these pants are available in 3 sizes.
I don't usually wear wide pants, but I wanted these pants to be wearable for people of my type, and also to be able to bring out the drape of the fabric just like a coat.
The impression is quite different, but the image I have of Yamauchi's Ferreira Mohair pants, which I sold just a year ago, is not far from the shape of the pants back then.
However, among them, "Sugihara magic" is applied.
here.
Back body.
The detail runs from the waistband to the beaded pocket and turns into a tuck below.
Although it has something in common with plain weave pants, these pants have a more authentic design, so they are similar in direction, but different.
Men's pants usually have two darts at the waist.
I think it's all about the "short distance" between the waist and the back beaded pocket.
I thought it made my butt look rounder, but that's not wrong.
However, it seems that it is not possible to cover the roundness of a person's bulge from the waist to the buttocks with just ``those short distance darts''.
However, since men's clothes are always designed within the bounds of tradition, most people who make clothes no longer question this.
That's why most men's pants always have darts in similar places and distances.
However, this time, I suspected that it was Mr. Sugihara.
Is that really correct? and.
Mr. Sugihara's answer was no.
So, what should we do to truly cover 100% of the bulge from the waist to the buttocks?
So, here are the details that have a proper meaning.
The darts that would normally disappear at the edge of the beaded pocket as if nothing had happened, pierce the pocket and finally release the roundness with a tuck.
By doing this, the structure covers the bulge of the buttocks properly and also creates an outline that does not expose the hip line.
Moreover,...
That...
This was achieved by having the pants have no outside seams.
I think these pants are quite innovative.
There's a lot of "Sugihara magic" going on.
front.
It also has elastic at the waist.
I wish I didn't have to put elastic in these pants...
However, I think everyone will understand once they touch this fabric.
You'll want to keep wearing pants made of this fabric forever.
That's why we decided to make it rubber, so that you can wear it comfortably and comfortably.
However, it has belt loops so you can wear it with a belt when you want to wear it properly.
By the way, this is the first trousers in nonnotte's history to feature an intuck design.
The top button is the same button as on previous clothes.
The zipper is Excella.
The stitching on the front opening is a design that Mr. Sugihara uses when making pants from drapey materials, and the stitching disappears halfway through.
This is a detail that prevents the crotch area from becoming stiff and creates a "surface" in the front, ensuring that the leg lines are not exposed.
And a back pocket.
This is a very thoughtful specification.
To prevent the opening of the single beaded pocket on the back from falling open due to gravity, a half-baked buffalo bone button is attached and secured with a loop.
I think we're thinking about it well. Well, Mr. Sugihara was the one who came up with this specification, and I didn't know about it until it was completed. lol
hem.
As mentioned earlier, there are no outseams.
The inseam is a split seam.
The hem of the pants is also folded in three and stitched 5mm from the edge of the fabric.
The specifications of this hem are extremely beneficial when worn, and I think you'll understand that when you look at the photo of it being worn.
By the way, these pants are made so that the fabric collects at the hem, creating a cushion.
Therefore, the length is long.
Moreover, it has a super irregular pitch from S to L.
The total length is 12cm different between S and L. lol
There is a 3cm difference between S and M, and this width is the same as usual, but it increases significantly from M to L. lol
Therefore, tall people are most welcome.
Therefore, depending on the person who chooses these pants, it may be necessary to hem them, but this time we will ask Fashion Izumi, who actually sewed the products, to do all the hemming.
Even if the length of the product is long, please rest assured that you will be able to wear it at a good length and with the perfect specifications.
back.
This is also "double".
This feels incredibly good.
Pants made of 100% silk would feel cold the moment you put them on, but these are like paradise from the moment you put them on.
And when the body heat penetrates you, you no longer feel anything. lol
A feeling of freedom like a soft-shelled turtle.
The inside lining is also properly tucked.
The hem is also a plush design that is not sewn.
The twill trousers are also designed for maximum drape.
Also, the seams on the side that come into contact with the skin are also flat.
This is the specification when you turn over the back.
The split stitches are facing each other.
"Two Side of The Same Wide Trousers" with very beautiful fabric and stitching.
I'm sorry that the show has been postponed for a week, and I haven't been able to introduce any clothes for a while, but these are the four types of clothes I've introduced above, along with the "undyed plain weave" type that I introduced earlier.
All of this involved spending a lot of time talking with Mr. Sugihara over and over again about how to utilize the fabric of "Suvin Gold Supreme."
There were times when we couldn't get along with each other, so we sometimes stopped talking for a while.
However, even though Mr. Sugihara is extremely busy, he spared no time to sleep and worked on designing this clothing.
I often talk to people who visit my store, and I think that there is no other designer who is as talented as me, and who is also kind, strong, and considerate to others. I am a person.
I love the clothes that Mr. Sugihara makes from the bottom of my heart, and I believe that Mr. Sugihara's style of making clothes should be conveyed to the world in the correct way, without any mistakes.
We started over two years ago, and the clothes are the result of our constant contact, meeting frequently in Tokyo, and discussing things.
Regardless of whether you like it or not, we have always wanted to create clothes that have our own heart, even though they are not typical clothes.
Sales begin on Saturday, December 16th.
The first day, the 16th (Saturday), was all day, and the next day, the 17th (Sunday), I guess it was until the evening.
Mr. Sugihara of nonnotte, Mr. Ota of Kaneta Orimono, and Mr. Mizude of Fashion Izumi.
The people who were involved in making these clothes are here at our store.
We will announce the price at the end, but we hope that those who are considering it are looking forward to the day.
Continue.