"Sewing" is always necessary when making clothes.
This requires techniques honed over years or even decades.
Clothes need to have a design that is easy to understand, but "sewing" plays an important role in greatly influencing the finished product.
It takes a great deal of patience to accumulate skills and to sew a garment, and ``sewing'' is almost always essential to making clothes.
However, it is something that is rarely mentioned in the fashion scene.
However, I believe that such "sewing" techniques are very precious, and I always want to share this with everyone.
That's why this time, I asked a sewing factory to sew the fabric that was woven by Kaneta Orimono, because from the bottom of my heart I wanted these people to sew it.
Mr. Mizuide of "Fashion Izumi".
Before working at CASANOVA&CO, I had a temporary job as a denim sewing worker at a denim sewing factory, and from that time on, I believed that "divine sewing" was what I still do at our store. "Yamauchi" handles the matter.
And the sewing factory whose name has been mentioned many times on this blog through Yamauchi's clothes is "Fashion Izumi" from Saitama Prefecture.
I can't think of anything other than having my clothes sewn by "Fashion Izumi," and I'd like everyone to know more about them through this.
JR Saikyo Line, Yonohonmachi Station.
I usually live in Okayama, so it didn't really appeal to me, but it was very close to Tokyo.
Here, I met with a certain designer.
I was a little late for the meeting because my previous exhibition appointment took up all of my time.
Mr. Mizide from Fashion Izumi came to pick me up there in his car.
I had met Mr. Izumi several times before that day, but this was my first time actually going to Fashion Izumi.
here.
This is a place I have seen on Mizude-san's Instagram, where he is actively active.
"Fashion Izumi" is on the second floor of this place.
The signboard says "alterations," but the store does not only sew clothes for clothing brands, but also alters clothes for the general public.
It seems that it is OK to wear just one item, whether it is nearby or far away.
As it says on the signboard, this is a "sewing factory" that does not just "repair" clothes, but also sews clothes, so the level of repair is quite high.
In fact, I was able to see the clothes that had been repaired at the site, and I was able to see not only what was requested, but also how the clothes were repaired to make them even better so that they could be used properly in the future and to have a better finish. was being done.
A cutting table for sewing clothes.
Here, the raw fabric is spread out and cut.
Even at Fashion Izumi, the cutting is done very precisely.
I introduced this method at Maya Sewing Factory, where I sewed the "Guanaco x FOX50G" clothes for tilt The authentics, which was released in July, and this method is very rare nationwide.
When cutting fabric according to a pattern, don't you just cut it according to the pattern in one shot?
After doing the ``rough cutting'', we do the ``fair cutting''.
It's a two-step decision.
Moreover, all the cutting is done by hand, not with an automatic cutting machine.
"Rough cutting" means cutting with margins first rather than the exact dimensions of the pattern.
This involves rough cutting not only the outer material, but also the "interlining" that is hidden inside the garment.
Then, the outer material and interlining are pasted together in the rough cutting state, and then the "regular cutting" is performed.
By doing this, there will be no misalignment between the outer material and the interlining, and they will be bonded together properly, resulting in a beautiful finished product.
At the sewing factory where I worked, there was no such concept as "rough cutting," and when attaching the outer material and interlining, the garments were cut in one shot according to the pattern dimensions and then glued together.
Therefore, the outer material and the interlining were often pasted together with some misalignment, and I think there are quite a lot of clothes in the world that actually have misalignment between the outer material and the interlining.
The lower the price, the more likely this will happen.
At the sewing factory I worked at, even if the interlining was a little off, there were times when the garments would go on as they were.
Still, at that time, the selling price of clothes sewn at sewing factories was in the 30,000 to 40,000 yen range.
That's why Fashion Izumi and Maya Sewing Factory are such careful sewing factories that are very rare even in Japan.
Anyway, it's beautiful and has a neat finish.
Until now, we have introduced "Yamauchi" shirts at our store, but in recent years, most of Yamauchi's shirts have been sewn by Fashion Izumi.
Clothes made by Yamauchi that have "Chiyoko Mizude" written on the "sewn by tag" are clothes sewn by Fashion Izumi.
Furthermore, Fashion Izumi's system for sewing clothes is very different from other sewing factories.
That means "sewing and completing each garment one by one."
Normally, many people work together to sew clothes, and each person has a designated sewing area (station), and it is common for different people to sew each garment.
In addition, for example, if there are 30 shirts, each part of the 30 shirts will be sewn in order.
30 pieces with collars...
30 items with side sewn sides...
30 items with hems sewn...
Finally, all 30 pieces are completed at the same time.
During that period, it felt like the 30 garments being sewn were all going through the same process at the same time.
However, with Fashion Izumi, things are different.
Each garment is sewn in one continuous sequence from start to finish.
What's more, they take great care in ironing, not only ironing the finishing touches after they're finished, but also doing "intermediate ironing" quite often when sewing.
In other words, each garment is sewn, ironed, sewn, ironed, and so on, carefully and carefully from beginning to end.
By doing this, the finishes of all the clothes will not be different, and all the clothes will be produced according to "Fashion Izumi" standards.
Mass-produced clothes can be hit or miss, and even the same clothes can have different looks.
However, at Fashion Izumi, everything is sewn to a specified high quality.
In addition, this.
Ignore the many open buttonholes. Because I was given a chance to try it out.
Of course, Fashion Izumi's buttonholes are also made with extremely high precision. .
What I want you to look at is the "white thread" attached to the front.
This is also a very rare method and is only done at very high-level sewing sites.
This is called "Kirijitsuke" (Kiribitsuke).
This is a mark that tells you what to sew where on the cut fabric, and where to sew exactly where.
Normally, ``holes'' are made in the fabric by ``marking'' with a chalk pen or perforating.
However, if you draw the mark with a chalk pen, the color of the mark will remain on the finished garment, and if you stamp it, it will leave a hole.
However, since it is a small item, this is generally considered OK, but Fashion Izumi basically does not use that method.
Marks can be marked using a method called ``kiri-kei,'' which is the most careful but time-consuming method.
It's a very small detail, but it goes without saying that it places the least stress on the fabric and is the most luxurious specification.
As mentioned above, after the fabric has been subjected to "rough cutting" and "regular cutting", this "cutting pattern" is applied and sewing is done.
After sewing is complete, the small threads used to mark the stitching are carefully removed.
Of course, once the garment is sewn and finished, those spots disappear without a trace.
It's a time-consuming process that only the person who sews can see, but the "Fashion Izumi" quality is maintained even in such detail.
Clothes made through such a sewing process are really neat.
Not only are the seams beautiful, but the clothes are completed as designed, and the clothes look great on the hanger and when worn.
The stitching pitch is one of the finest in Japan.
It goes through a time-consuming process before it is sewn.
Sew and iron.
Sew and iron.
As I watched, I saw her going back and forth between the sewing machine and the ironing board over and over again.
The person in the photo is Chiyoko Mizude.
We post videos of actual sewing on our Instagram page, so you may want to check them out as well.
Some of the clothes this time were quite complicated and had difficult specifications that made it hard to understand what was going on, and some of them were considering changing the specifications, but they were in their ideal specifications. Mr. Mizude sewed it beautifully.
Chiyoko Mizude says that when she sews, she says, ``I want to get as close as possible to what the brand is thinking, thinking, and aiming for.''
This time, the finish is exactly as the word says.
I think that by stepping on the sewing machine and actually sewing it in detail, and carefully repeating the intermediate ironing process, the result is very good. Please look forward to it.
"Fashion Izumi" was founded in 1991.
The company's president, Toshiya Mizude, founded the company when he was 26 years old.
Ms. Mizude herself has been sewing for 42 years, having started sewing since she was 18 years old.
In the first place, the name "Fashion Izumi" is the opposite of Mizude's last name.
Apparently there is a region in Kagoshima Prefecture called "Izumishi", and he said that it was difficult to read the word "Mizude".
Fashion Izumi is a sewing factory located in the clothing sewing industry that specializes in high-end ready-to-wear, as mentioned above.
However, it has not been this way since its founding, and it seems that they originally sewed clothes in a slightly lower price range.
However, from the mid-2000s, thanks to the accumulation of technology over many years and the influence of the rise of fast fashion in the world, the company shifted to sewing high-end clothing.
Over the years, she has spent many years not only learning the techniques she used up until now, but also acquiring even more detailed techniques, and has reached her current level of clothing sewing.
The sewing industry is a wage job where the cost is ``how much yen per garment''.
In other words, the basic idea in the world is that profits increase by sewing a single piece of clothing as quickly as possible.
However, what Fashion Izumi is doing is the opposite.
In addition to the "intermediate ironing" and "cutting process" mentioned earlier, it is important to sew each piece of clothing neatly by putting in one or two steps such as cleaning the seam allowance and removing the wrinkles from the fabric. A sewing factory.
In addition to sewing for clothing brands, we also do the "alterations" introduced earlier.
It seems that he has been doing this type of repair for over 10 years, but in the past he used to do it on the ``cheap'' side, such as hemming for 500 yen.
But now, as a garment factory, they have changed their focus to ``repairing clothes by utilizing their skills'' as a ``repair shop with skills related to garment sewing.''
The level of sewing and clothing repair is of a quality that Japan can be proud of.
However, even in such a situation, it has changed over time.
Mr. Mizude asked me, ``Why do you think dinosaurs became extinct?''
"That's because they didn't try to adapt to the changing environment. They didn't want to change." and.
That's why Izumi's fashion style has changed with the times.
However, I think it is difficult to try to change by incorporating more difficult techniques rather than changing the type of method or perspective.
Even if someone adopts something that is troublesome and time-consuming, it won't last long, and the sewing industry is one of the most labor-intensive and time-consuming jobs in the clothing-related process.
However, I believe that this sewing factory has been around since its founding in 1991 because it continues to improve its technology and perform careful sewing.
For me personally, having Fashion Izumi sew my clothes was something I had longed for.
Please enjoy watching the sewing of the completed clothes.
And the raw materials that were sewn by Fashion Izumi this time.
"Suvin Gold Supreme"
"Svin Gold Supreme"
This cotton raw material can be called a fantasy.
This is the first time that this fiber has been made into "cotton fabric."
We asked Kaneta Orimono to weave it using all of its know-how.
Continue.