Yesterday, we introduced some of nonnotte's Spring/Summer 2024 collection, which will go on sale from March 2nd (Saturday) under the direction of Mr. Sugihara of nonnotte.
Part of it.
And today, I'd like to introduce you to something else.
I didn't intend to make a special order, but...
I made a "special order".
If you're reading this blog, you may know about it, or maybe even shop there, but in December of last year, we had Kaneta Orimono make products for us at our store. We made our clothes using a material called Suvin Gold Supreme, which boasts the highest quality cotton fiber in the world.
I think it's a genuine bespoke garment.
The Suvin Gold Supreme clothes took more than two years to realize from conception, so we were working backwards toward the unveiling in December 2023.
The clothes we are introducing to you this time were created at an "exhibition" where nonnotte's 2024 Spring/Summer collection was unveiled to retail stores (select shops).
In terms of this Spring/Summer 2024 collection, it was held in June 2023.
When I went to an exhibition of nonnotte's Spring/Summer 2024 collection.
I, I want to see as much information as possible with my own eyes, so I stay at one brand's exhibition for a long time. lol
The same goes for this nonnotte exhibition.
I stayed at the nonnotte exhibition for six and a half hours.
During those six and a half hours, I looked at Sugihara-san's clothes in detail, experienced them, and tried to understand them in my own way.
Ah, what should I do? This is good. It's like this. This is the case for myself, but also for the brand, as it is a place where both parties can seriously confront each other, so I have always been facing the clothes made by Mr. Sugihara.
Normally, at an exhibition, select shop buyers look at one brand for about an hour to an hour and a half, but in my case, at nonnotte it was about six times that amount. lol
Well, I never expected to be able to understand a brand's collection in an hour or so from Hana.
Even with other brands, which have a large size and don't have many collection variations, I usually stay for at least two hours.
However, in the case of the nonnotte exhibition, there are many variations of the collection created by Mr. Sugihara, and each piece is extremely special.
Therefore, during the exhibition, I asked Mr. Sugihara to spend a lot of time talking with me about all kinds of things.
Nonnotte's clothes are not outsourced, and Mr. Sugihara makes them all by himself, and because the clothes have an ``inherent mass'' to them, he uses a lot of power and energy.
As I mentioned earlier, at that time, I was talking to Mr. Sugihara about various things and confronting the clothes that Mr. Sugihara was making.
As I looked at the nonnotte collection, I felt that Mr. Sugihara was creating exceptionally unique and quality items.
But you know,,
but.
For me, there's one more thing.
I felt like my heart only wanted one thing.
Then, just as the sun was setting, at the very end, it suddenly started raining.
Hey, hey, this is it.
What my heart is calling, the cry of my heart, no, the desire of my heart.
Something that can reach even greater heights.
That idea suddenly appeared in my head, or rather, in my heart, and I conveyed it to Mr. Sugihara.
"How about we do this this way?"
Mr. Sugihara created the "astonishing beauty of the clothes"
and
An "incredibly beautiful fabric" developed by Mr. Sugihara together with a weaver.
What I had in mind was a pattern for a shirt made with other fabrics, even though it didn't exist in the brand's inline.
and
Fabric used in other clothes.
I wanted to combine the two.
Then, Mr. Sugihara said.
"Wow. That's really good! I wonder why I didn't think of that on my own. I think it's really good. Let's do it!"
To my surprise, he gave me the OK easily.
However, I simply didn't want to do something that would give off a meaningless sense of specialness, such as being bespoke or exclusive.
Originally, the existence of a collection was created with a lot of thought put into it.
However, this time, my heart couldn't hold back.
However, Mr. Sugihara himself really likes it and seems to have worn it quite a lot already, so I think we made something good.
That is this.
nonnotte × CASANOVA&CO
Draping Shirt Type A
Geometric Cotton Linen
material _ COTTON 53%,LINEN 47%
color _ GEOMETRIC BROWN
size_4,5
this.
But before that, I would like everyone to understand that the color of the photo hanging on the hanger that I am about to introduce is completely different from the actual product.
When I was taking the photo, I thought it came out pretty well, but I'm sorry.
Therefore, please be aware that the photos of the fabric that appear after you read the article, and the photos of me wearing it, are very close to the actual colors.
sorry. . . m(_ _)m
Well then, let's pull ourselves together...
Based on the "Draping Shirt Type A" shape that I introduced yesterday, it is a combination of original fabrics that Mr. Sugihara developed with Mitsubishi Yarn from Bishu based on an organization chart.
I think these are clothes of a very high standard.
The one from nonnotte's Spring/Summer 2024 season that I was most moved by its beauty is the "Draping Shirt Type A."
And the fabric that I fell in love with was a fabric called "Geometric Cotton Linen."
I pursued both of those things, and made what would be the pursuit of two rabbits become one rabbit.
First, let's talk about the fabric.
*This photo is very close to the real thing.
this.
As mentioned earlier, this fabric is a super original fabric that was developed by Mr. Sugihara of nonnotte together with Samsung Yarn based on an organization chart.
It's very symbolic of the season.
Mr. Sugihara feels the beauty in living things in the natural world.
Today's world is full of things created by humans, but creatures that live naturally are not created by humans, and they definitely have a meaning and have their colors.
Its beauty attracts people's attention.
He has always wondered what it is that attracts people's attention.
However, in the clothing market, there are already items that use natural and biological patterns as patterns or prints.
Therefore, Mr. Sugihara uses the keywords "symmetry" and "regularity" that do not exist in nature.
The idea was to create something that would naturally attract attention when worn .
Selection of color scheme, texture, weaving pattern, and thread.
He wanted to express this through these four elements.
The color scheme that became the motif is a python (snake) that lives in nature.
I don't really like snakes because it was inherited from my mother, but I love the texture of this fabric.
The fabric blend is 53% cotton and 47% linen.
The warp threads are made of cotton in three colors: orange, unbleached, and brown.
The weft is lined with ivory and black linen in multiple colors.
Placing two different materials for the warp and weft is also a great benefit for the owner later on, but I will introduce that later.
This fabric is woven with two types of fibers and multiple types of thread.
Bishu is a wool producing area.
Another big point is that it is woven here.
The loom we use is a dobby loom, but in Bishu, a wool producing region, many weavers refuse to use the dobby loom to weave cotton and linen fabrics.
However, isn't there a fabric that had thin stripes in old men's suits?
Originally, the Bishu production area was good at creating moody wool fabrics using dobby looms.
Bishu is also a wool producing area, so the strengths of the production area as a whole are put to use in the fall and winter.
But these days, it feels like summer is getting longer every year.
Mr. Sugihara believes that if Bishu can weave fabrics using dobby looms, which are one of Bishu's strengths, and use not only wool fibers, but also cotton and linen fibers, which are strong in spring and summer, he will be able to realize the wonders of the region. He seems to think that it is possible to raise this even further.
A very nice person.
However, it seems that not many weavers are willing to respond to this demand.
Personally, I have been advised by Mr. Sugihara for some time that I should go to Mitsubishi Yarn because it is a very good weaving shop, but I was able to overcome the difficult hurdles with this fabric as well. , it is the product of Samsung Yarn's technical ability and the imagination and creativity of their willingness to take on challenges together.
For the fabric this time, Mr. Sugihara drew a draft for the "squares" that will be the base of the organization chart, and Mitsubishi Yarn judged it, gave advice, and was able to make it into a shape. However, it is a transcendent organization that has never existed in the world before.
A series of small, scratchy patterns, orange stripes, and the occasional natural knot of linen.
I was captivated by the look, texture, and feel of this fabric, which is complex, deep, and regular, but not easily understood.
Moreover, it is designed so that Mr. Sugihara's ideals are realized not only when it is in new condition, but also when it is worn.
This fabric is far from wearing out or deteriorating.
It's amazing, and I think it's a great reminder of the high level of technical ability and depth of Mr. Sugihara of nonnotte's philosophy.
*The color of the hanger photo may look different from the actual product. m(_ _)m
And about the form and specifications of the clothes.
This is the "Draping Shirt Type A" that I introduced yesterday.
I absolutely couldn't give up on the shape of this shirt.
Even if you look around the world, there are only a handful of people who can create clothes with this shape with their own hands. surely.
In the collection, we use extremely dangerous fabrics from Kaneta Orimono, and I think this is more of a shirt-jacket type of clothing.
In fact, I wanted clothes that could be worn like a shirt or a light jacket, but were completely different from anything else out there.
Then, the combination of things I liked was perfect.
As I briefly introduced in yesterday's blog, "Draping Shirt Type A" has an uneven structure.
Two overlapping collars, two overlapping base collars, and two overlapping cufflinks. So far it's common, but...
・Left and right front sections (2 pieces)
・One sleeve for each side (2 pieces)
・One large piece of back body (1 piece)
Using only the five parts listed above, a form never before seen by humans can be created.
The photo above gives you an immediate sense of this.
When you spread your hands out, it bends from the front to the armpits into an "L-shape."
this.
The fabric on the side of the body goes inside the body, and the sleeves seem to be coming from inside the body.
The switching between the front and back sections at the armpits, the stitching of the single sleeve, and the armholes are all done in places I don't understand and have never seen before.
Of course, the sleeve attachments are not sewn in one go from the side of the body to the inner sleeve like a regular shirt, but each sleeve is attached separately.
This is the area where the "three seams" of the front armhole area gather.
This specification could not be understood from the sewing specifications and could not be sewn without Mr. Sugihara directly instructing the seamstresses at the sewing factory the order in which to sew.
I think you'll be impressed by this when you see it in person. I'm sure there's a structure around the armhole that no one has ever seen before.
And, you can instantly feel the amazing structure of this clothing.
Here. . .
Look at this.
Isn't it dangerous? ?
If you lift the sleeves up, it will look like this.
It's not tough and it's not tough.
Mr. Sugihara, the designer of nonnotte, creates this with his own hands.
It looks like this when it's on a hanger, but when it's worn by a human being, it's an astonishingly beautiful piece of art.
Originally, the side switching lines that existed were placed so far forward that they could not even be seen from the side.
*This color is close to the actual color.
Lay flat.
Because it has a super three-dimensional structure, there are a lot of wrinkles, but look carefully at the transition lines.
The switch between the front body and the back body should normally be at the top of the shoulder, but it has been shifted to the back yoke position.
On the front, the grain of the fabric is straight, but around the shoulders and back yoke, the direction of the fabric is endless.
This pattern technique is truly a superhuman technique.
When the sleeves are turned up, you can see that the transition between the front body and the back body at the armpits is very far forward, and instead of being a straight line, it falls diagonally from the armhole to the hem.
In addition, the back body is large and has a large amount of volume in one piece.
All the lines are in absolute positions that are only allowed here, and curves and darts are erased there.
It's not ultra heavy. this.
Seriously, so much respect.
*I'm sorry that the color of the clothes keeps changing. m(_ _)m
side view.
The transition line at the shoulders is where it falls, and at first glance it looks like a "drop shoulder", but that's not the case.
By placing the shoulder line in this position, it is set to bring out the roundness of the shoulders and the beautiful form of the sleeves. It's amazing, isn't it? It's amazing.
Due to the complexity of the fabric structure, there are edge stitches on the collar, but the stitches are buried.
Almost invisible.
The collar is carved in a curved line rather than a straight line.
front button.
Actually, this is also worth mentioning.
buffalo horn button.
is half baked.
Following the "Suvin Gold Supreme" clothes we sold in December, we're also making buttons this time.
Burning the buttons really enhances the button feel, and we like burnt buttons.
By the way, this is a photo that is close to the actual item.
It's like this. in fact.
Half-baked buffalo horn buttons are expensive and look strong, so they don't really exist.
I think those who like it will agree with me.
The sleeve cuffs and sword bolo opening are also half-burned buffalo horn buttons.
And the back.
Fold-down stitching is used extensively throughout, creating a beautiful and durable backside.
Now, you can feel safe and secure even if you wash many times in the future.
Also inside the armhole area.
The folding and folding stitches are done beautifully and beautifully.
And here.
I think that's a pretty important part.
Sewing at the base collar.
It may not be something you see very often, but I find it very disappointing when the curved stitching of the collar is distorted in relation to the body.
Even with Japanese brands, the stitching of the base collar and collar attachment is often uneven and distorted, not just on shirts.
But with nonnotte, you can rest assured.
It's very beautiful and has an amazing curve that makes you want to follow it with your eyes.
In fact, this is the first specification for the brand, but the specifications of the Kenboro are the most classic and polite specifications, including those from AUBETT so far.
It is flat and has been treated to prevent the edges of the fabric from being exposed.
Looking at the back of this Kenboro opening, I could really feel that Mr. Sugihara had improved his level of clothing making.
The CASANOVA name is also included in the quality display.
wear.
Height 167cm, weight 52kg, size 4.
This time, it won't shrink too much, but considering the shrinkage of the fabric after washing and the mood of the clothes, we didn't make the brand's smallest size, 3.
Therefore, it is available in two sizes, 4 and 5.
I have extremely short hands, so they don't stick out much, but don't worry, even if you're the same size as me, I don't think the sleeves will feel this long at a size 4. lol
As mentioned earlier, linen is placed in the weft, so it has a firmness in the horizontal direction, giving it a bulging shape.
I think you can really feel the draping form of Mr. Sugihara of nonnotte.
The drape has an amazing "hugging" feel.
If you spread your hands out, you will get this amount.
However, if you do it naturally, what awaits you is "super-sculpture."
I think it has great form.
But! ! !
Isn't this what we're aiming for?
Of course they are displayed like this in new condition at the store, but they are not like this.
Our ideal is not like that.
Look at this.
this.
What I'm already wearing.
Wash only once.
So, even though it's still super developed, it has more points than a new product.
I think the outline of the form has become a little more natural.
I think you can maintain both the balance of the fall of the fabric and the maintenance of the form.
Also, this.
Cotton warp.
This is the reason why linen is placed on the weft.
Irregularities in the fabric.
When you add home washing to the original fabric developed by Mr. Sugihara and Samsung Yarn, the fabric is designed to create unevenness due to the difference in shrinkage ratio between cotton and linen. this.
Isn't it dangerous? ?
By adding this expression, the mood of the fabric increases, creating a ``complex texture'' that looks like it exists in nature.
So, in new condition, I'd say 4 points.
4 points out of 100 million points.
So, if you get your hands on one, please enjoy the surprising firmness for a little while, then immediately throw it in the washing machine.
An endless loop of wash, wear, wash, wear.
If you can do this over and over again, I think you will see your scores improve more and more.
Please stay tuned.
So look at this.
I only washed it once.
Of course, it's washed out.
I think you can feel that the mood is clearly higher than when it was new.
This is our aim.
As I said earlier.
The form of nonnotte's clothes has not disappeared, and the potential of the fabric has been greatly demonstrated.
The shape of the nonnotte clothes designed by Mr. Sugihara is determined by the draping process, so no matter how many times you wash them, they don't lose their shape.
This allows me to wash these clothes without any worries.
Obviously, the outline is different from other clothes in the world.
If you just look at the fabric, it has a certain artisan essence, but this shape is added to that.
This is not great.
I think they are creating a genre of clothing that I have never seen before.
There are very few designers who can create clothes like this.
I believe that our clothes are made in a completely different way than the clothes that are overflowing in this world.
It doesn't make you stand out when you wear it on the street, but it does have a special feel to it.
Moreover, clothes that attract people's attention within their natural range.
I feel that I was able to achieve what I wanted to create clothes with that kind of balance.
Also, oh yeah.
For the upcoming season, I want to wear it like a shirt jacket, but when it gets hot, I think it's a garment that looks good when you roll up the sleeves and wear it casually. I was aiming to wear it.
I've only washed the clothes I've been wearing once, so it's still a long way off, but I think they're not only brand new, but I have great expectations for the future.
The selling price is ¥55,000- (¥60,500-).
These will also go on sale to coincide with the launch of nonnotte's new season on Saturday, March 2nd.
I would be happy if you would consider it if you like it.