Nobuyuki Matsui "Glue"

Today, let me introduce Nobuyuki Matsui. This 2021AW season collection is also pretty good. "Glue" glue. The theme of the 2021AW collection. The other day, Nobuyuki Matsui participated in Rakuten Fashion Week, the former Tokyo Collection, in a runway format at her atelier/showroom. Before Corona, there were several brands that presented their collections in Paris. Everyone stopped going to Paris because of Corona. Mr. Matsui from Nobuyuki Matsui used to do it at the Paris Fashion Week, but this time he did it at his atelier in Japan. The atelier used to be in a different location, but it's been moved and it's amazing. I wonder if it's 1 floor underground and 2 floors above ground. It's an old building, but I'm producing and presenting in a place with a very good atmosphere. It seems that the interior was done by himself and the staff when he moved there. This season is what I imagined and felt at that time and expressed it in clothes. "Glue" = "glue" It seems that this expression was born from what Mr. Matsui experienced when he was building his atelier. He is a designer who can draw his own designs, draw patterns by hand, and complete sewing and processing on a superhuman level. By the way, it seems that he has also woven fabric, so he is a very rare person in the world as a designer. That's why, even for the clothes that look completely different on the left and right, Mr. Matsui is quoting the patterns he's made himself so far and drawing new patterns. This is crazy. It's easy to write like this, but you can't do that normally. That is Nobuyuki Matsui. And there is something that is even more symbolic of this season, but let me introduce it today. Nobuyuki Matsui Zip up Blouson (CASANOVA&CO EXCLUSIVE SIZING) face material _ WOOL 100% (SUPER 160s) lining material _CUPRO 100% color_WHITE(undyed) size_2(SM),3(ML) this. white blouson. This is amazing. People may avoid white outerwear at once, but this collection was developed in two colors, black and white. If it's just a color development, normal will be a stable black. But it wasn't black. Say it clearly. Because there was a world that could never be done without this "white". That's why our store only sells this color. why this white The reason is simple. Because it's a "undyed" color. It's undyed, so it's not pure white or pure white. It is completely different from the common chemical white of shirt fabric. I've heard from Mr. Yamauchi in Yamauchi before that "white" rarely exists in wool. That's why I don't think I've ever seen a white wool one. In Yamauchi, there have been wool shirts that have been processed to be as close to white as possible, but they are rare at our store. This "non-dyed" "white wool", and the overwhelming quality of the fiber is SUPER 160s. By the way, in terms of the name of the fabric, it seems to be "light melton". But this melton is a melton that no one has ever touched. That should be it. Because it's not dyed. General Melton is black or navy, isn't it? Is that dyed? Everyone's image of Melton is "strong and solid", isn't it? surely. Non non. This is the opposite. Each fiber is very soft, gentle, lightweight, fluffy and warm. Moreover, it reflects light properly and drape naturally. This is the benefit of the undyed melton of SUPER160s. completely. I have never seen such material. That's why our store is only available in this "white". However, this. I think it would be better for everyone to think of it as "undyed outerwear" rather than "white outerwear". White outerwear is just a color, and I think there are people who can't do it, but that's because it's chemical. This is strange. The depth of your bosom that you can't even imagine wearing white. I wonder if the world will change. Those who have never thought of "white outerwear" before will be surprised. Because it's amazing that it's undyed. It is a very fine light melton. Almost no stitches are exposed on the front. The waist pocket has a double-ball pocket, so stitches are inserted in the holding part. However, the stitching of the zipper holder does not enter the front, so the collar and parts details look like they are floating. A blouson with a very beautiful outline, which is composed of two sleeves and a shapely change on the back. This blouson. I asked Mr. Matsui, the designer, to design the size of our store CASANOVA&CO EXCLUSIVE. It's not that the whole thing has changed, but specifically the sleeve length. I had it shortened by 3 cm. 3 cm is quite short for clothes. But I think it's been a pretty good balance for our customers. Even with this, even if I wear a size 2, it will still fit on the back of my hand. I have fairly short hands, but I think it fits well for people with normal arm lengths. And this black pattern. "Surihagashi Nassen". It's a brand that uses Japanese craftsmanship dyeing techniques such as persimmon tannin dyeing and glue splitting in its collection. This season's theme is "scraping off printing". I also learned about this dyeing technique for the first time. It seems that the dyeing technique used in Kyoto, the sacred place of traditional dyeing in Japan, but each pattern is different. The method is to make a pattern with glue on a large workbench, put the dye on top of it, and then put the fabric on top of it. "Scrub" it and "Peel" it off. And it seems that it is a dyeing technique that wash the fabric to remove the glue and fix the color. However, when dyeing, the dyeing solution is put on the workbench, and the brush is also different, and this characteristic pattern also has a meaning. "Glue" in this collection was born during the work in the atelier. That's why Mr. Matsui used a brush to work on the walls during the interior work in the atelier. And I actually wrote this pattern on the wall. yes. The pattern created during the work in the atelier and the brush used were sent to a craftsman in Kyoto as they were. As you can see the process of rubbing off and printing at the fabric stage, I deliberately designed the rubbing off pattern to be cut in places during the cutting and sewing of the fabric. A fabric that is completed with a dyeing technique that puts a lot of effort into a base of ultra-fine material that is undyed. The zipper is from LAMPO, Italy. black coloring. It is a smooth and moderate bounce operation with a sense of security. And great back processing. The finish on the back is too beautiful. A number of astonishing piping. Nobuyuki Matsui's original ultra-thick cupra lining with the necessary amount of margin for the sleeve lining. With this, you can wear it with any material as an inner layer without any discomfort. Nobuyuki Matsui Mac face material _ WOOL 100% (SUPER 160s) party material _ WOOL 50%, FOX 50% lining material _CUPRO 100% color_WHITE(undyed) size_2(SM) Here is a coat of the same fabric. It's called Mac, and it's a slightly larger size than the blouson I mentioned earlier because it's an overcoat, which is a characteristic of this type of coat. As for this, the sleeve length is made as usual. This coat is commonly known as a coat that looks good on anyone. Mr. Matsui said at the time of the exhibition. I thought so too when I tried it on. I believe that the undyed fabric, the placement of the scrapings, the details and the outline all work together to create a coat that can be asserted. I will introduce various things. It is the same as rubbing off the outer material and printing, but the collar is also a feature here. FOX, a rare material that Nobuyuki Matsui uses occasionally. I think it was a kind of silver fox. A collar with a long pile that blends fox hair. The back of the collar is also full. Nobuyuki Matsui's original hair core with horsehair is placed on the collar band, and the transparent water buffalo button is also burnt. Firmly stitched. I really like the material contrast. A raglan line with a very beautiful curve. If the raglan sleeves aren't on the sloping shoulders, they will look squishy, ​​but Nobuyuki Matsui's shoulder line doesn't have that. Anyone can draw a beautiful outline as long as the size matches. The back shoulder pattern is also a great curve. It's super three-dimensional. this. It's a very hard-to-understand picture, but this is the armpit of the back. The later raglan line is bent and comes to the side. It gives a smooth and soft shoulder line, and it's easy to move even though it doesn't have a large margin. The silhouette of the shoulders seen from the front, the bulge from the shoulders to the back seen from the side, the fit and the margins at the back are perfect. This is the armpit when viewed from the front. I tried to take a picture, but I don't really understand it, so please let me explain at the store. As mentioned above, the buttons are also a combination of fabrics, which is quite high level. The blouson was black with both beads, but the coat was made of the same fabric with both beads. This is also the back processing without complaint. After all, it's not only about the appearance, but it's safe to wear clothes that are properly handled like this, and they will inevitably last a long time. Anyway, it's definitely better to have something that is durable and comfortable to wear. I don't think there is such a person who likes clothes that are uncomfortable and break easily. The lining is placed in a position that works well when worn. This is the brand's original ultra-thick cupra lining. It's unlined, but don't worry, the presence or absence of a lining has little to do with heat retention. On the other hand, clothes can breathe and keep you comfortable all the time. The lining is also shaking, but it is fastened with a thread loop. You are polite. It's a coat that's long and has a lot of volume, but I think it's very good as long as it's the right size. Well, I think it's good, so I'm buying it. This kind of coat takes you to a world that you can't easily experience with other clothes when you wear it. It's not only the appearance, but the fitting when you put it on, the feeling of the clothes on your shoulders, and the designer Matsui-san's work is beautifully reflected. Price is price, but if you like this kind of thing, I don't think you'll find anything that can replace it, so please take it with you for many years. Nobuyuki Matsui Padding stitch shirts face material _ COTTON 90%, SILK 10% party material _ WOOL 70%, COTTON 20%, HORSE HAIR 10% color_WHITE size_2(SM),3(ML) Finally this. A shirt that symbolizes Nobuyuki Matsui. It's a small amount every season, but it's a shirt that I order from Mr. Matsui. this. Reason, From magickake. The brand's original "hair core" and "hazashi" that is sewn on the collar, which is characterized by large stitches and middle stitches. This is a specification that can be put on the collar, body, and shoulders of a tailored jacket that is originally made to be "genuine". The hair core is combined with the outer material and hand-stitched in fine detail into a V shape. It's a real tailor's job from ancient times to keep it that way, and he's still doing it. Mr. Matsui. That's why it's difficult to actually see such a white thing, so this is what I'm doing on the shirt as a creation of one free idea. Darts on the shoulder. The actual tailored jacket also has hair cores installed in such an arrangement. At Nobuyuki Matsui, it goes perfectly with the standard three-hole shell button. The neck is a chinst specification with an extended collar. You can't see the stitches anywhere around the neck, so everything stands out and looks three-dimensional. The cuffs on the cuffs are also a characteristic combination of straight lines and curves. very complicated. It's hard to tell, but there are two darts on the back, and the waist shape is gentle. This is the back. Piping processing on the armhole. The back side of the sashimi is alive and well. behind the back. Back stabbing and back darts. All hand sewn. It's obvious. This shirt is also a very essential piece to see the quality of Nobuyuki Matsui. If you want a good shirt, I think you can consider this shirt as one candidate. We have a lot of high quality shirts, but Nobuyuki Matsui is the only one that is as elaborate as this. It's not oversized, it fits your upper body, but the cotton and silk fabric feels good against your skin. Take a look at Nobuyuki Matsui.
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