I've been doing a lot of things so I haven't written on this blog at all since nonnotte, but I think the storefront has changed quite a bit in that time.
Like the new season.
A limited-time DAN TOMIMATSU event is planned to begin on Saturday, April 6th, but I'm sure you'll still have plenty of time to enjoy the clothes until then.
And today, I'd like to introduce you to another "awesomeness of the world."
John Alexander Skelton.
I'm sure some people know of this brand, but there is only limited information available on the Internet, and of course the price is not disclosed.
They are not listed on online stores, prices are not disclosed, and on top of that, the name "John Alexander Skelton" does not appear anywhere on any of John Alexander Skelton's clothes.
In other words, the brand name is not written on the brand tag or the attached tag.
Well, what the designer himself said from the beginning was, "Look at my clothes themselves," so it's proof that there is no need to compete in the market with brand name or price, but rather that he cares very much about "what he wants people to feel from the clothes."
Well, it's a brand that can't compete on price.
However, there is something overwhelmingly awesome about the clothes.
The brand's policy is that it is generally not OK to give out too many details, so I asked if I could write about it on my blog anyway, and they said OK, so I'll introduce it in my own way.
However, I feel that this clothing item is a complex combination of highly specialized elements of clothing making, so it would be difficult to introduce all of it in this blog.
Also, I think that when customers actually wear the clothes, they will feel something different, so in a way, I want to leave that as "romance."
Let me introduce it to you.
John Alexander Skelton
BUFFALO SHIRT
Material: 100% silk
color _ BRONZE
Size: XS, S, M, L
*Sold out
John Alexander Skelton
SEDGE JACKET
Material: 100% cotton
color _ BLUE EMBROIDERED
Size: XS, S, M
*S size is sold out
John Alexander Skelton
CXV MOONSAILOR TROUSER
Material: 100% silk
color _ BRONZE
Size: XS,S
*S size is sold out
John Alexander Skelton
CLINK SHIRT
Material: 100% cotton
color _ JAPANESE FLORAL PRINT
Size: S, M
*S size is sold out
John Alexander Skelton
CLINK SHIRT
material _ COTTON 50%,LINEN 50%
color _ CREAM EMBROIDERED
Size: S, M
*S size is sold out
John Alexander Skelton
SAVOCCA SHIRT
Material: 100% cotton
color _ BLACK PRINT
Size: S, M
The six items listed above are the ones we carry in our store from this brand's collection.
Oh, and there are suspenders, but I didn't take a photo of them.
It would be difficult to introduce the feel of all of them at once, so today I will introduce the first three.
・BUFFALO SHIRT
・SEDGE JACKET
・CXV MOONSAILOR TROUSER
Let me tell you a little about it.
To begin with, I first learned about this brand when I joined Casanova & Co., or maybe before that, around that time.
So, that was about 8 years ago.
This is John Alexander Skelton's 15th collection.
So, if you think of it as two collections a year, one for spring/summer and one for fall/winter, it's around that time.
Back then, fashion magazines weren't as lifestyle-oriented as they are now, so I think they still delved deeper into clothing and it was still a good time.
I can't remember which magazine it was, but there was a feature on John Alexander Skelton's collection, I think it was his debut collection.
I still remember how shocked I was when I saw it.
There have been two times in my life when I was shocked by a magazine, one of which was "John Alexander Skelton."
By the way, the other one was Toogood, which was featured when they first debuted.
So, the reason I decided to work with John Alexander Skelton is because I felt that there was something incredibly consistent and thorough about his work.
However, it's true that it can be quite difficult to handle brands in this genre.
I myself contacted the brand myself and didn't get a response for a year.
However, I believe that it is my duty to introduce valuable clothing from around the world to everyone, so I really wanted to introduce this brand of clothing.
So, let me give you a little introduction.
First, this.
It's called BUFFALO SHIRT.
As mentioned above, the composition is 100% silk.
Original fabric made in the UK.
In terms of the stages of silk, I think it's spun silk. That's my experience wearing it.
I think that's probably right.
I think this fabric will be positioned as the main fabric in John Alexander Skelton's 15th collection.
It is made of 100% silk and features various leaf patterns of various sizes, probably woven on a jacquard loom.
First of all, John Alexander Skelton is not just a brand that does design; it is an expression of the designer's own will and inherent ideas, which he has investigated and studied in depth, and his "process" and "current goal" are expressed in the brand.
So, what does that mean for this, our 15th collection?
John Alexander Skelton himself was previously interested in how society in the Neolithic period, about 10,000 years ago, lived in harmony with nature.
However, his interests have changed and branched out over time and with age, and now his research thinking has shifted to the question , "What benefits can the harmony between Neolithic society and nature bring to modern society?"
In today's society where artificial development continues, it is "gardens" and "natural parks" that allow us to feel and connect with nature, and what he has learned from studying it academically is expressed in his 15th collection.
Well, what I mean is that the clothes are made by "researchers" who have a talent for making clothes.
John Alexander Skelton's clothes.
This fabric expresses that idea all over.
Well, looking at the fabric, since it is made from spun silk, there are no unevenness and anyone can see its high quality no matter where they look.
It looks matte in the pictures but when you wear it it gives off a natural glow.
The brand offers two types of clothing: BUFFALO SHIRT and CXV MOONSAILOR TROUSER.
I am also happy to be able to carry John Alexander Skelton, and I am wearing the BUFFALO SHIRT in great spirits.
When I wear it, I feel a great sense of awareness.
Well, even though this BUFFALO SHIRT is called a shirt, the structure of the garment is not a shirt at all.
Seriously.
The fabric is not that thick, and since it's 100% silk, I want to wear it casually like a shirt except in midsummer. So I wear an XS.
It has a small tailored collar, or rather an open collar, and the neck is open, so it looks a little cooler, and when it gets hot I'd like to wear it with a sleeveless top from OLDE HOMESTEADER underneath.
But this collar.
From the moment I saw it, I felt something strange about its appearance that I had never felt before.
I've been wearing it to figure that out.
Then I realized why I had felt strange at first.
The construction of this collar is amazing.
At first glance, it looks like a small tailored collar, and hasn't changed much.
However, there was one thing that bothered me from the moment it was delivered.
It's the "mysterious wrinkles" on the lapel of the upper collar.
If you look at the photo above, you can see that there are slight wrinkles on the upper collar on the left side of the body, as if it has been pulled.
And the cutting of the lapel on the upper collar.
When not worn and on a hanger, the cut of the lapels appears straight.
But look at that lapel line.
When you wear it, it naturally softens and curves.
What's more, the collar is soft and fluffy.
This is amazing.
What does that mean?
Collar upright.
Looking at it this way, can you see that the collar opening is obviously small when it is in stand-up collar mode?
This neck opening dimension is significantly narrower than a human neck.
In other words,,,
The dimensions of the two points indicated by the fingertips are intentionally completely different when cutting.
The size of the "body with collar attached" that he is pointing to is...
These are the measurements for the outer circumference of the collar.
This BUFFALO SHIRT is designed to be worn with the collar turned up (laying flat).
Therefore, by folding back the collar,
In this way, the lapel of the upper collar is designed to curve naturally to fit the wearer's body measurements when worn.
this,,,
Superb tailoring techniques.
If you create the lapel curve on the pattern from the beginning, the collar tip will only curve as specified.
In fact, depending on the wearer's build, the curves the brand envisions may not be apparent.
That's why we intentionally designed the dimensions of the top and bottom of the collar to be different, so that when worn, it creates a natural curve to fit the wearer's body.
Designed to look beautiful when worn, not just on a hanger.
So, while John Alexander Skelton's clothes are designed by the brand, they are ultimately worn by someone, and it is the act of wearing that ultimately creates the ideal form of the clothing that the brand envisions.
Isn't this crazy?
As the designer himself said earlier, the clothes themselves are imbued with the idea that "I want you to feel this way when you wear them."
You sometimes see slogans like "Wear it and feel it" from various brands, but for me, most of these products feel the same whether you wear it or on a hanger.
Well, that's what happens, because it's like this on the hanger.
With so many clothes being made instantly, you can definitely feel the greatness of John Alexander Skelton's clothes.
Well, all the clothes are made like that.
This is really crazy.
So, if you look at this photo with the above in mind, you will see that there is a bulge with some "space" where the collar is folded.
This is also seen from the side.
These two points on the fingertips.
The outer circumference of the collar fits snugly against the body.
The folded part is definitely bulging.
Normally, I don't think any clothing with a collar like this is constructed in this way.
This is the first time I've seen this design.
However, as I said earlier, this type of design and construction makes a clear difference when you wear it.
I think John Alexander Skelton's clothes are expensive clothes.
But the reason for this is present all over the place in clothing.
There are certain "conventions" for any type of clothing, be it shirts, pants, or jackets.
However, I think that this "conventional" approach will only result in the same thing being created.
Most of the clothes in the world are made of "conventions."
That's why I think the culture of Western clothing never really deepens.
I believe there is huge value in creating clothes like this from scratch, something that doesn't "conventionally" exist in the apparel market.
And this BUFFALO SHIRT.
It has patch pockets with flaps and a boxy silhouette at first glance, but it's completely different.
The position of the flap is clearly not in a normal position, and when worn it naturally shapes the waist, but the flap assists this, giving it an incredible three-dimensional look when worn.
Also, I don't think I need to mention that all of the leaf patterns are arranged symmetrically, but please take a look at the actual product to see for yourself.
The shoulders are designed to be high on the body. That's what a shirt is called.
The sleeves are attached after the fact with two pieces attached.
The shirt is not sewn in a single continuous stitch between the body and the inner sleeve, as is common with regular shirts these days.
This is a common theme for all John Alexander Skelton shirts.
And this.
The line where the front and back of the body change.
You will be able to feel the presence of the seam at this position when you wear it, but the side of the body creates a "sculptural three-dimensional effect" that develops as you move.
Rather than being located in the middle of the side of the body, the seam is placed in a unique location, creating a meaningful curve that you can feel when wearing it.
Buttonhole.
This buttonhole also really reflects the brand's aims.
A buttonhole is made up of two parts: the "outer thread" and the "core thread" that forms the center of the hole.
Take a good look.
At John Alexander Skelton, the thread used for the hole stitching is a different colour from the core thread.
This is something that would never happen in "conventional" clothing production.
The "conventional" practice is to always make both buttonholes the same color.
However, in this shirt, the hole thread is a color that matches the ground color of the outer fabric.
The core thread is the same color as the thread that outlines the leaf pattern.
This creates a garment that is "integrated" down to the smallest details.
For me, this is the second time I've come across a brand that uses two colors of thread for this buttonhole, after COTTLE.
The level of completion of clothes made from an accumulation of these small details is totally different from anything you can find anywhere.
In terms of BUFFALO SHIRT sizes, I'm 167cm tall and weigh 52kg, and I wanted a relatively tight-fitting shirt, so I chose XS.
I think this BUFFALO SHIRT is great because it comes in a straightforward size range, like Japanese brands' XS, S, M, L.
And next.
SEDGE JACKET.
I wonder if this will also be a representative form of John Alexander Skelton.
The fabric is 100% cotton, like a moleskin satin weave. I think.
But it's not heavy at all or anything like that.
In terms of the clothing genre, this would be classified as a stand-up collar "coverall," but when you wear it, it doesn't fit into that category at all.
I think you'll feel a unique sense of overwhelm.
You can really feel that every detail has been thought out of these clothes.
First of all, I think that with a 100% cotton blend, in 95% of cases the garment can only be made into casual wear.
So I myself have been thinking about "what level of quality can be produced" in the "100% cotton" realm, and I once worked with my favorite cotton weaver, Kaneta Orimono, to create clothing using the world's best cotton fiber, Suvin Gold Supreme, with Mr. Sugihara of nonnotte.
However, this John Alexander Skelton jacket is not made of cotton of the same quality as the Suvin Gold Supreme, and just looking at the fabric, it looks very casual.
However, when it becomes "John Alexander Skelton's clothes," it is completed with an air of luxury that is almost unbelievable.
This I couldn't believe at first.
I think it's genius level.
Those of you who visit our store on a regular basis will probably understand this, but at CASANOVA&CO, we rarely have any blue clothing on display.
If anything, it's denim.
Even the color navy isn't my forte, so I don't wear it often.
But this jacket was completely different.
Additionally, John Alexander Skelton himself, as a brand, rarely uses the colour blue.
The designer himself said that the reason for this is that it is a difficult color to use in a collection.
However, he says he will purposefully try to create some shades in the collection that he finds difficult to create.
In other words, in this case, it's "blue."
Personally, I have hardly ever come across any blue clothing in my life that I thought looked cool.
However, this is different.
I'm super moved.
The reason for this is the carefully thought out design of the clothes.
This is also embodied in the SEDGE JACKET.
The condition of John Alexander Skelton's clothes on a hanger is completely different to how they look when worn.
To begin with, I think clothes can be broadly divided into three types.
The first type is something that doesn't look good on a hanger and doesn't look good when worn.
This is a completely useless outfit.
The second type is something that looks cool on the hanger, but falls short of your imagination when you wear it.
This is what you might call normal clothing.
And the third one.
I think this is extremely unlikely.
"It doesn't look good on the hanger, but when you wear it, it has an amazing look level."
I think that this third outfit is the highest quality outfit.
John Alexander Skelton is no exception.
In other words, the clothes that people first imagine will look the most like when worn are what make them so awesome.
Now, this SEDGE JACKET.
What does that mean?
Take another look at this photo.
Just like the BAFALLO SHART mentioned earlier, there is a secret hidden around the neck.
Normally, when you look at clothes with stand-up collars on a hanger, the neck doesn't open like this.
I don't think it's possible to see the tag sewn inside to the extent that you can see in the photo above with other clothes.
Most stand-up collar items are...
I think that most hanging fixtures look something like this.
That's why many stand-up collar jackets give off an instant "Chinese" feel when you put them on.
But that's not the case with SEDGE JACKET.
Stand collar design.
There's a secret hidden here.
The area of the fingertips.
The dimensions for sewing the collar to the body are as follows:
Collar outline.
The top part of this collar is made larger in size.
In other words, it's the complete opposite of the BUFFALO SHIRT mentioned earlier.
But, that's not all.
The stand-up collar is designed to open beautifully and naturally when worn.
I was surprised when I wore this.
John Alexander Skelton's clothes look so much better than you can imagine.
Well, I didn't take any pictures of it being worn.
Please look forward to this real "romance"!
As mentioned above, the SEDGE JACKET is made from 100% cotton, which makes the stitching more eye-catching, and the stitching around the neck and shoulders is a complex combination of indented and recessed stitching.
This SEDGE JACKET has a total of three pockets on the front.
All of them are round with flaps.
The brand calls it an "offset flap," but it's attached offset from the patch pocket.
Do you understand?
Flaps of different sizes.
The flap is sized to fit inside a patch pocket.
I wonder why it's doing this.
The same goes for the waist pockets located on both the left and right sides of the body.
However, I find it really amazing how, on a cotton coverall-type garment, the pockets and other details can stand out so clearly.
I had the same feeling with COTTLE denim, but all the visible details are three-dimensional. They're not crushed.
Usually, the details of 100% cotton clothes tend to be flat and look terrible, but the details of John Alexander Skelton's clothes really stand out.
So I was curious, and after the delivery I asked, "The details stand out so much. Who on earth is sewing them?" and I received the reply, "Someone who runs a small family-run sewing factory."
Yeah.
I have no idea. LOL
Although you can't tell at first glance, it also comes equipped with darts for shaping the waist.
The high sleeves create a beautiful outline around the shoulders.
And a fair amount of "shirking."
This aspect is one of the elements that prevents this item from being reduced to just a casual coverall.
And while the brand name is not mentioned anywhere, the only icon it has is the number of buttons.
Well, I've always liked clothes with lots of buttons, so it's my favorite.
By the way, all the buttons are buffalo horn buttons.
When I asked the brand about this, I think they said that they made everything themselves.
There are also four buttons on the cuffs.
Of course, the sleeves are open.
In my opinion, the best way to wear it is with two buttons open and the cuffs rolled up randomly.
Symbolizing this collection is a painting of a plant that was recorded approximately 600 years ago.
The embroidery incorporates this motif.
This jacket also has a slightly unusual seam at the front and back of the body.
To begin with, the size and placement of the pockets is a balance I've never seen before.
However, when you put it on, all of those negative feelings of discomfort disappear; in fact, you'll be surprised by the shape.
It's natural to wear around town, but it's not normal at all.
I think this is proof that it's a very good piece of clothing.
I think that if you actually try wearing it, you will empathize with this.
back.
As you can see, it is fully piped and unlined.
Because it's a British brand, I think people can instantly sense its simplicity and robustness.
By the way, the first BUFFALO SHIRT also has no lining and uses a folded-felled seam for sewing. I didn't take a photo of it though.
In addition to the piping, I think the stitching on the back is also quite impressive.
Even in the overlapping areas of the waist darts on the back, the stitching for the pockets is beautifully done without any messing up.
The stitching is so simple that it seems as if the thickness of the darts doesn't even exist.
This is pretty amazing.
The SEDGE JACKET is available in three sizes: XS, S, and M.
I am 167cm tall, weigh 52kg and wear size XS.
It seems like XS is equivalent to S in Japanese brands, S is equivalent to M in Japanese brands, and M is equivalent to L in Japanese brands.
When it comes to this jacket, if you're unsure about the size, it's probably best to choose the smaller size.
And lastly, for today.
MOONSAILOR TROUSER.
The fabric is the same as the first one introduced, 100% silk leaf pattern.
The single pleat gives the pants volume and makes them seem like they'll just fall straight down, but that's not the case at all.
These pants feel like they're infused with the world of John Alexander Skelton.
High waist, no belt loops.
Suspender buttons instantly give you a sense of the brand's mood.
All the buttons on the button front are horn buttons.
The fabric is 100% silk, so it's lightweight and will feel cool during the upcoming spring and summer seasons, but it's still designed to give you a sense of security when wearing them as pants.
There are no belt loops or a waistband, but it's important that pants fit properly around your waist when you wear them.
It's not a matter of size, but the internal structure of the waist.
As you can see, it doesn't have a stiff waistband like Japanese brands, but there is a white cotton lining at the waist.
When I touched it, I couldn't tell for sure whether it was two layers or one layer doubled, but there was a thick "core material" inside.
Unlike the types commonly used in Japan, these have a double layer of core material built in, so they hug your waist when you wear them.
However, since it's not the typical adhesive interlining, it's not stiff, but rather soft and fits gently.
The fit around the waist is superb.
So this is what it means to have a "proper, soft fit." It was my first time experiencing something of this level.
The back is a high back design.
It doesn't look very good on a hanger, but when worn it curves and rises from the armpit to the back of the waist, which is incredibly elegant.
However, even though it is a high-back design, it still has a "V-shaped cut" to improve the fit around the waist.
I have never seen a pair of high-back pants with a seam at this position.
I think this triangular cut makes it fit even better around the waist.
And the needle cinch is completely cut out from the beginning. It has three needles.
In addition to the V-shaped cut mentioned earlier, darts are also included.
The dart starts relatively close to the side.
I think it's placed in a very unusual position and angle.
Because of this waist detail, there are suspender buttons, but I think you'll find the fit quite comfortable even without suspenders.
There is a flap pocket on the right back.
They sit higher and to the side than regular pants.
Furthermore, the shape of the flap pocket gives it an old-fashioned feel.
Also, I can barely fit my hand into this pocket.
At first glance, it may seem like the details aren't that significant, but that's not the case at all.
These pants really reflect the brand's unique characteristics.
The original design is for it to have a stiff shape, but after washing the product, the inner thigh shape has more movement.
hem.
The hem has a flipped outward edge.
These pants have been washed and not pressed, so the outline is very variable.
I was shocked to see my concept of pants completely overturned.
If it's a regular brand, they would normally finish it by pressing it firmly.
But, but, still, draw a clear outline.
And I feel an overwhelming sense of power.
These pants are the most expensive item in the John Alexander Skelton collection we carry in our store .
When you put them on, you can feel the incredible precision of their design.
I'm sure that if you get your hands on a pair of these pants, they will reign as an absolute force to be reckoned with, but, well, the price is what it is.
One of the special pieces.
There is no lining on the back.
Experience the full feel of original English silk on your skin.
All transitions are piped.
I said earlier that this is a special piece, and the low production numbers confirm that.
Apparently it's 5th in the world.
The composition of the ingredients is simply written on the back of the tag.
There is no mention of "John Alexander Skelton" anywhere.
I think size XS is a good size even for people with a small build.
I can wear them full length without having to have them hemmed, so I think they'll be a great fit for petite or slim people.
Size S is for someone around 175cm tall.
Visually, it does seem to have that kind of impact.
Because it looks totally different when you wear it.
Come experience the high level of perfection of these clothes and the impressive power of this brand.
John Alexander Skelton, I hope you'll take a look.