Today, Isabella Stefanelli.
This time, the model is called "Gustave."
The "Gustave" clothing style is named after the painter "Gustave Courbet," who lived from 1819 to 1877.
Isabella designed this model based on the idea that the painter may have worn similar clothes when he was alive.
There seem to be many works by Gustave Courbet, but one of his works was once used in a TV commercial about thinning hair.
"Despair", a self-portrait painted in 1845.
I'd like to introduce you to some Isabella Stefanelli clothes inspired by Gustave Courbet.
Because it's really cool.
Isabella Stefanelli
Gustave
material _ ORGANIC COTTON
color_TEA
size_S
※Sold out
This "Gustave" model is slightly different from the Isabella Stefanelli clothes we've had in our store so far.
it is,
1: 100% organic cotton
2: The fabric is used vertically, not horizontally .
3: The seam on the back is not flat, but has a special locking process .
The above three are distinctive.
With that in mind, let's start with the first fabric.
As mentioned earlier, the material is 100% organic cotton.
Apparently it was made in the UK.
100% cotton gives a casual impression.
Even at Isabella Stefanelli, there are no other pieces that are 100% cotton; Virginia, which I introduced the other day, is made of linen, silk, and wool, and often uses a number of different materials, but even this would never be called a "dress," but I think you can still see why Isabella calls it "100% COTTON."
This fabric has a single weave made up of a total of three threads .
The fabric is made up of two warp threads and one weft thread.
Both use thick thread, but when you look closely at the fabric, you can see that within one stitch, two warp threads are arranged together in a way that makes it look like they are "pulled together."
In contrast, the weft thread is just as thick but there is only one.
Each stitch is made up of three fairly thick threads, which gives the fabric a very pronounced weave.
However, a similar fabric that is widely recognized is something called "cotton canvas."
It gives off an image of being quite hard, stiff, and tough.
However, this Isabella Stefanelli fabric is worlds apart.
It retains the impurities, the black granular cotton fiber lint, so the fibers are left as they are, giving it a "natural" appearance that is as close to nature as possible, and it has a canvas-like texture, but is incredibly moist and soft.
It's a fabric that creates a sense of "encounter with the unknown" when you actually touch it, in contrast to the way you imagine it before you touch it.
Additionally, as an option, we offer high temperature dyeing using black tea leaves from Sri Lanka.
Therefore, although it is lighter in places than the color of the cotton itself, it is unevenly dyed to look like light beige.
I don't really know.
I try to keep it as natural as possible. As much as possible.
So, unlike undyed fabrics, it has a natural feel, but I think you can still feel the shadows deep within.
The use of thick yarn gives the fabric a firm, sturdy structure and a soft, damp feel.
In addition, the fabric structure stands out clearly and there are shadows from deep within the fabric.
I also like undyed fibers, and this fabric gives off a mood that you don't often get to experience with that type of fabric.
Photo of the collar area.
If you look at the lapel, you can see that the "fabric edge" is located at the end of the collar and the adjacent end of the front body.
This is the second one.
2: "The fabric is used vertically, not horizontally ."
Isabella Stefanelli uses fabric in its entirety to the maximum extent possible, and often uses it horizontally to make the most of its width.
While doing so, Isabella Stefanelli's stunning form is revealed.
But this one uses the fabric vertically.
The reason for this, as I understand it, is that the warp threads are made of 100% cotton, as mentioned above.
This 100% cotton fabric is an original creation by Isabella Stefanelli.
I haven't seen any other clothes made from the same fabric, but I think this fabric is probably meant to be used vertically, unless you are aiming to create a very voluminous form.
This is because by using thick threads as the warp threads in a "pulled together" manner, the direction in which the warp threads run becomes very stiff.
In other words, if this type of fabric is used horizontally with the warp threads running horizontally, a shape will pop out as if defying gravity.
However, this time with Gustave, the grain of the fabric runs vertically and the warp threads follow the direction of gravity, giving the fabric both firmness and a damp-like softness, which I think has succeeded in giving the cotton an otherworldly drape.
At our store, Suvin Gold Supreme, we have been exploring the possibilities of cotton, but someone has already done something amazing with the total balance.
The edge of the fabric where the front is joined has fabric twill.
The fabric is used vertically and cut off at the hem and sleeves.
The thick twist of thread is released from the cross section and comes pouring out.
The selvedge, which is unique to fabric woven with old shuttles, is used as is on the lapel.
The upper lapel collar is also selvedge.
However, this upper collar is not an extension of the body, so the way it is attached is unique.
The upper collar also uses selvedge fabric edges, so the collar edges do not need to be finished and can be left as is.
However, the edge of the fabric is straight, so the collar line is cut to match the curve of the neckline.
The collar is hand sewn as you can see.
The top row, which appears to have three rows, is a separate collar attachment stitch, while the middle and bottom are a continuous hand stitch.
At Isabella Stefanelli, Isabella determines the most appropriate type of sewing thread based on the characteristics of the fabric being used and the specifications of the garment.
The tag that comes with this Gustave states that the hand-sewn thread is "cotton, hemp, and silk," and the thick hand-sewn thread is made by hand-twisting one strand of "cotton hemp" thread and one strand of "silk" thread together.
In other words, instead of using the type of hand-sewing thread that is normally available, they select different threads in the atelier, twist and ply them by hand, and sew them together as a single thread.
The Gustave that I am introducing today has been machine sewn with cotton thread for the flat seams, and looking at the overall details, it appears that the hand sewing has been done with either a strong sewing thread that Isabella twisted herself, as shown above, or silk thread.
back.
The hand-sewn threads at the collar are exposed all around.
It is a single collar design with no collar stand or crescent waist part.
However, the collar attachment dimensions, which correspond to the neck opening dimensions, are larger than the selvedge part at the end of the lapel, giving the impression of a sharp and short collar end. Therefore, even though there is no collar base or interlining, the collar is designed to stand on its own when turned over.
This lapel collar also looks very cool when worn.
Also, if you look at the photo from the back, you will see that this Gustave has a fabric change in the middle of the back, called the "center back."
This centre back seam is a feature that Isabella Stefanelli occasionally uses only on clothes where the fabric is used vertically.
I understand that using fabric vertically requires width and therefore a need to have a seam, but looking at the structure and form of Isabella Stefanelli's clothes, that doesn't seem to be the only reason.
So, it is not that the fabric width is necessary because it is used vertically , but rather that it is the result of a comprehensive calculation of the design of the clothes, including the fabric used, the grain structure, and the completed form. That is the Isabella Stefanelli clothes.
In other words,
At an exhibition, I placed an order with Isabella Stefanelli for "Gustave", a 100% organic cotton tea dye.
That was the only "decision made for Isabella Stefanelli" regarding that order.
Now the question is how to finish it.
Shape relative to fabric.
The grain of the earth in relation to the shape.
Pattern structure relative to the grain of the fabric.
Sewing threads and stitching details relative to pattern construction and fabric.
I'm sure there are still many decisions that need to be made at the production stage, but we will consider, try out, and give shape to the best design from many different aspects, over many layers and stages.
So, when it comes to using 100% Organic Cotton fabric in the shape of "Gustave", no one can imagine what the finished garment will look like, and everything is created with Isabella Stefanelli's accumulated experience, technique, and sense.
It's truly amazing. The finished clothes are amazing.
Front waist pocket.
The pockets this time have a single welt.
This pocket also has multiple types of stitching specifications.
There are three stitches to hold and reinforce the pocket welt.
There is one stitch to hold the fabric down on the back of the pocket.
There is one stitch to secure the body and the pocket body.
There is one stitch connecting the body fabric and the back of the pocket fabric.
There is one stitch made with silk thread that is golden in color to hold down the piping fabric.
I guess it's the 7 stitches above?
I think that the five places other than the golden-colored hand-sewn thread that holds the piping down and the stitches that connect the body and the pocket fabric are sewn with twisted cotton silk thread.
The pockets on Isabella Stefanelli's clothes aren't just for decoration, because so much effort goes into making them.
Since the pockets have proper functions that can be used in everyday life, I think you can use them with complete confidence.
And three buttons on the front.
I believe this is a nut button, dyed and burnt.
Reinforcing fabric is hand sewn around the edges of the holes.
All three of these buttons are different.
The buttonhole is hand-sewn using two different types of thread twisted together by hand.
The tightly sewn, tight holes provide a sense of security when fastening and unfastening buttons on a daily basis.
From the back.
Holes and button attachment points.
This specification is pretty cool, but when you actually use it, you'll find the processing is extremely reliable.
Seriously, a lot of work went into it and it's extremely detailed.
In addition, there are also stand-up buttons sewn on with handmade sewing thread, also made in the atelier by twisting together multiple threads.
Just like the pocket specifications I mentioned earlier, it's not just about the "design" - they put a lot of thought into how the wearer will actually use it, and I think it's these kinds of things, these kinds of specifications, that fulfill the responsibility that comes with making expensive clothing.
Isabella demonstrates this by showing the finished garment itself.
So I think it's truly a really good brand.
Even when hung up, it already gives off a glimpse of its awesome form.
This Gustave has a seam at the center of the back, but no seams at the sides.
The body is made up of one piece on the left and one piece on the right.
Still, it's a lot crazier than normal.
This one also has one sleeve, but the seam that finishes the sleeve into a tubular shape is on the outside, not the inner sleeve side.
The cuffs are reinforced to prevent the sleeve seams from fraying.
Shoulder line.
On the left shoulder line only, there is a hand stitch on each side of the seam that extends all the way to the back split seam allowance.
This doesn't fit on the right shoulder, so I guess it's a design feature.
With sleeves rolled up.
Compared to Virginia, who I introduced the other day, her shoulder line doesn't seem to be abnormally long.
But when I wear it, I look like Isabella.
I was impressed by the superb form.
Next, the back.
The back specs are also amazing.
The third point is about the "locking process , the back seam is not flat ."
Here's a photo of the back of the shoulder.
The shoulder seams are sewn with a split stitch.
The remaining seam allowances on the back are in four places: the armhole, center back, sleeve cuffs, and collar attachment.
The seams at the armholes, center back, and sleeves are pressed down, with two pieces of fabric attached and hand-sewn with a lock stitch.
To minimize thickness when worn, the shoulder seams are hand-stitched and the edges of the fabric are locked with a split seam.
The collar is also designed to be as flat as possible.
The Gustave is made from a thick 100% cotton fabric, so if the fabric were a little thinner, the stitching would have an even smaller step, but this time, taking into consideration the thickness of the fabric and the "thickness and stiffness" of the seam allowance, it has been sewn with the best balance of materials in the right places.
For example, if the fabric were thicker and made for winter use, it would seem there would be more split seams.
A major feature of Isabella Stefanelli is that even with the same shape, the seam allowances and sewing threads are completely different depending on the fabric.
So, as I wrote in my blog the other day, this is a brand where not only the clothes themselves, but even how they are sewn is a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
Stitching at the collar attachment point.
Sew the collar and secure the edge of the seam allowance.
There are two types of hand stitching.
Shoulder seams, armholes and sleeves stitching.
All of the sewing threads are made from thick, strong threads made by combining two types of thread: cotton hemp and silk.
I wonder how long it would take just to sew all the edges of the fabric at the seam allowance.
Even though Isabella is very experienced in hand sewing, I think it would be difficult to sew even the back seam in a whole day.
Center back stitching.
If you look closely at the center back, you can see two machine stitches side by side and a hand-stitched overlocked seam next to them.
The sleeves also have all hand sewn lock stitching.
Back of armhole.
There was something that bothered me about the sewing of the seam allowance here.
this.
Look at your fingertips.
This specification is the same for both left and right shoulders, but...
Only the "top" side of the armhole seam, which is turned down to one side, has hand stitching in the seam allowance .
I wonder what the specifications are.
I thought.
As a result, the shoulder line drops and the shoulders become dropped, but by adding hand stitching to the back seam allowance, the seam allowance becomes "stiff."
Isabella Stefanelli uses no interlining, no shoulder pads, nothing.
By adding this stitch, the seam allowance is made stiffer, so that when worn, the shoulder line is pressed against the seam allowance and stands out more clearly. That's my opinion.
Sorry if I'm wrong.
But after giving it some thought, I think that's the case.
When worn, it does look like the seam allowance of the armholes is slightly pushing out the outer fabric, so I will post a photo of it being worn later, so check it out.
But if I'm wrong, sorry.
It's a brand that takes an enormous amount of time to produce, so there's no way it would be included without reason.
"Hand stitching" that goes inside the seam allowance.
It was the first time I'd ever met him in my life.
It does not fit under the armhole.
And then there are the pockets, as I mentioned earlier.
Isabella Stefanelli's pockets are really strong.
That's all I've sewn.
And not all of the sewing thread is the same.
Isn't that amazing?
Even just the back of the pocket looks incredibly cool.
wear.
I am 167cm tall and weigh 52kg.
This time, Gustave is size S.
The size isn't bad even for me, but I think it would be a good size for someone up to 170cm tall.
As I mentioned before, can you see how the armholes on the body side of the dropped shoulders are clearly visible on the outside?
The back style also creates an ultra-drape that is hard to believe is made from 100% cotton fabric.
The back view that accompanies this draping is astonishing.
Here, here.
This floppy drape starts from the shoulders.
This is the real thing.
The outline of the shoulders and body is not as emphasized as in Virginia.
However, one thing to remember here is that there is no "side seam."
It's abnormal. Abnormal.
All parts move naturally and obediently in accordance with your movements.
These are clothes that are made over a long period of time, with extremely detailed craftsmanship.
Isabella Stefanelli's clothes are a collection of incredible details, and they have a great mood.
Also, nine new pieces of Isabella Stefanelli clothing arrived in our store today.
Unfortunately, we don't have any bright colors like the one we have here, so if you like this kind of thing, check out Gustave.
