Today I'd like to introduce you to Isabella Stafenelli, who I mentioned recently.
I think these are the finest pieces of clothing in the world.
Clothes that reach the pinnacle of a particular clothing genre.
The clothes are extremely complex and there is a limit to what I can introduce on a blog, but as not many details about the clothes are publicly available, I hope that I can let people know at least a little about them.
Also, as mentioned in the title of today's blog, what was delivered to our store this time was a lineup of clothing for Fall/Winter 2022.
Because we are investing an extraordinary amount in clothing, the current delivery terms are unavoidable, but we don't know when the next one will be.
I hope you can face this issue head on.
And we hope you will experience the incredible quality of the clothing.
Isabella Stefanelli
Jack Flight
Material: 100% wool
color _ feu
size_M
※Sold out
First, this.
It is a hand knitted item.
A hand-knit version of a flight jacket with a Jack Kerouac motif.
Since it is hand-knitted, the collar is rounded and voluminous.
The image is like an old Cowichan sweater. It's very striking.
However, what they have done is truly amazing, and it will blow away your concept of the shape of knitwear.
this.
A close-up of the knitted fabric.
One thread made up of three threads.
In other words, the main body is knitted with three strands of yarn.
But there are only four colors.
White, red, blue, purple.
perhaps.
The color name is "feu".
It means "fire".
The knitting that makes up this Jack Flight is anything but monotonous.
Body, placket, arms, collar, hem...
It is made up of a wide variety of knitting structures that change in various ways even in each area.
Of course, Isabella designed this knitted fabric.
Apparently it is the grandmothers of the Aran Islands who knit them.
Although it is a three strand knit, the stitches are incredibly tight.
The weight is just right and the other side is completely opaque.
I think this is a knitted piece that requires quite a bit of strength as you knit.
However, it is Isabella's grandmother who knits the fabric according to her designs.
With normal hand-knitted items, the knitter usually creates the shape of the knit itself according to the design instructions.
But this is not the case.
Grandma creates the woven "panels" designed by Isabella.
After that, it is Isabella herself who shapes the clothes.
So what does that mean?
Unlike woven fabrics, knitwear's shape is constructed by each individual "stitch."
That's why clothes always end up with straight lines.
Because it's impossible to curve the stitches in the knit.
However, this hand knitted piece is by Isabella Stefanelli.
A "panel" of a wide variety of knitting patterns knitted by a grandmother.
Using these, Isabella then "knits and connects them."
It's not something that is connected by "sewn."
We “knit” and connect them.
It is by “knitting” and connecting the pieces that Isabella Stefanelli creates her stunning three-dimensional forms.
What's more, this knit is completely "seamless" (except for the buttons, lol).
Normally, knitting is done by knitting each piece separately and then connecting them with a stitch called linking.
However, this is not made by sewing panels of knitted fabric together.
The shapes of Isabella Stafenelli's clothes are created by knitting the fabric to create a three-dimensional shape in which all the pieces are integrated.
This knit makes the human body appear incredibly three-dimensional, something that's impossible with other knitwear.
That's called Jack Flight.
It's very hard to tell from the photo, though.
Looking at the knitting, you can see that the shoulder design combines set-in sleeves and raglan sleeves.
Furthermore, the bottom of the armhole.
This part is designed to naturally fit inside the body.
It was the first time in my life that I had come across a knitted garment that had this kind of "shape" even when hanging.
Logically, I thought this couldn't possibly happen.
But it's actually happening right in front of your eyes.
This is the level of Isabella Stefanelli's knitwear. It was as if a punch had hit me in the head.
The front is fully open.
The front of the body is not straight.
As the knitting structure changes, there are places where the overlap becomes slightly deeper, creating an organic curve.
The knitting structure on the placket and hem is not uniform.
The sleeves have a traditional British Aran pattern.
The left and right are the same.
As mentioned above, there are no seams whatsoever.
Well, strictly speaking, there are probably seams, but are they sewn with the same thread as the main knitwear?
The neck collar is attached.
Maybe they're connected by knitting.
At this point, they're all made of the same thread, so even if you stare at them for minutes or even hours, you still won't understand.
Even if you try to follow it with your eyes, the structure of the knitting is constantly changing, so it becomes confusing.
This cannot be explained.
This is the structure that has been created to such an extent that it is extremely complex.
Buffalo meat is roasted and charred.
As you can see, the thread used to attach the buttons is the same wool as the thread used to knit the main knit garment.
By the way, the buttonholes are not punched.
I spread out the knitting and made holes. Lol
This is something only Isabella Stefanelli could do.
Waist pockets on both front sides.
The pocket openings are made of sturdy knit fabric and are strong.
And inside, something crazy appears.
this.
The pocket lining is hand-woven by Isabella.
Extreme agony.
And the way the pocket bag cloth is attached is also awesome.
Do you understand?
It is sewn with the same thread as the knitted fabric itself.
The part where the body and the bag fabric are sewn together is made with feu color thread.
However, the pocket bag fabric itself is sewn together using only blue knit thread.
I think that's because the handwoven fabric has a blue base.
The back of the pocket bag cloth is regular bag cloth.
So, if you look here, it's easy to see the color of the sewing thread (or more precisely, the knitting thread).
The thread used to sew the bag fabric together is blue to match the hand-woven fabric.
Of course, it's hand sewn.
The knit fabric itself of Jack Flight is quite voluminous, so the overall quantity is quite large.
However, as I mentioned earlier, it has a three-dimensional shape that is not possible with knitwear, so I think that the size M that we carry in our store will look amazing on anyone, from someone like me who is in their late 160s to someone who is 170cm tall.
This is a complex hand-knitted piece that takes a long time to understand no matter how you look at it.
If you see the actual item, you can easily imagine it being a companion for many years to come; it has a weight and texture that gives you a great sense of security, something that is unique to this knit.
With lavender flowers.
Isabella Stefanelli
William
Material: Cotton, Linen
color _ tea iron
size_3
※Sold out
Next up, this.
The form William.
Actually, this was not in the collection.
These clothes were produced by Isabella Stefanelli outside of the collection and sent to Japan.
When I saw it, I wondered if a sample like this existed.
Then, a person from a Japanese brand said, "It was made outside of the collection."
So, it doesn't really have much to do with the theme of the collection, but I was so amazed by the construction that I really wanted to sell it, so I purchased it for this autumn/winter collection.
As a result, this coat was on store shelves a little earlier than the autumn/winter items that I'll be introducing today.
Those of you who regularly visit our store may have seen this.
We also know that the material is cotton and linen, but the exact percentages of each are unknown.
But I think it's mostly cotton based.
I think it's around 6:4 or 7:3.
The fabric is Italian corduroy.
This is called an iron mordant tea dye.
Regular tea dyeing produces soft brown or beige nuanced colors, but this dye uses iron as a mordant, which gives it a unique black color.
this.
The base fabric has very clear corduroy ridges.
As mentioned above, it is then dyed with iron mordant tea dye.
As you can see in the photo, the grain of the fabric runs vertically, but as always, the neck and placket have some amazing details.
At first glance, the collar, placket, and pocket openings appear to be made from fabric near the edge of the garment, with the edge of the fabric simply being used for the placket, but that's not the case.
If you look at the neck and body seams, you can see that they are all hand-sewn.
Left and right body edges, neck, pocket openings, everything.
The pocket openings are also made of corduroy-based fabric.
If you look at the placket and the back of the neck, it looks like this.
yes.
Switching ends.
The body is stitched with incredibly strong thread from Mara, a German company.
The seams are then hand sewn to ensure a flat seam.
this.
In addition, the back of the neck is made of corduroy to make the neck area flatter.
This part also functions as a "base collar," which is unique to Isabella Stefanelli, who does not use "interlining" or "lining," and the corduroy is doubled on both sides to make the neck stand up.
The attachment is all hand sewn.
Do you understand?
This neck collar.
And similarly, the back of the pocket opening.
To prevent the pocket opening from sagging, the fabric is run vertically on the front, but horizontally on the inside of the pocket opening to prevent stretching.
The attachment is also hand sewn.
The detail is incredible.
The buttonholes are also hand sewn.
back.
With reinforcing fabric.
When you spread your arms, the armholes are extremely small compared to the width of the body.
As for this William, the size is listed as 3.
So, size wise it's either an XS or S.
She's probably around 160cm tall.
Because it feels just right for me.
To make up for this, the armholes are very small.
However, the sleeves are large compared to the small armholes.
An enormous amount of sleeve fabric is sewn in, creating gathers on the shoulder side of the sleeve.
This allows the arm to move, creating an amazing shape when worn.
In addition, there is a hand stitch running from the armhole to the inside of the pocket.
When you look at the back, you can clearly see what the stitches are.
Darts run from the armhole toward the inside of the pocket.
As you can see from the back, when viewed from the front when worn, the starting point of the darts is hidden in the armhole seam and the end point is hidden inside the pocket.
These darts are awesome too.
A very clear outline emerges.
Perfect corduroy ribbing.
It's a thin, half-length cotton-based coat, but there's something amazing packed into it.
Although it is designed to run small, this coat promises a wonderful world for petite and slim people.
Isabella Stefanelli
Amedeo
material _ WOOL 50%,LINEN 20%,SILK 20%,HEMP 10%
color _ Bark
size_4
Amedeo jacket made from handwoven fabric designed by Isabella.
Amedeo has become my uniform recently.
Its hand woven fabric.
The clothes are made from hand-woven fabric, and unlike the coat mentioned above, the grain of the fabric is run horizontally, so when you consider this aspect, it can be said to be the true essence of Isabella Stefanelli.
this.
There are no buttons on the front.
The dress is tied at the front with a hand-dyed leather cord by Isabella that is threaded through the back.
As for the fabric, it is hand-woven and is from an organisation designed by Isabella.
As I mentioned earlier, the fabric is made up of four different materials.
As for this fabric, as you can see in the later photo, it is not just used horizontally, but also reversed.
The reason for this is that I was more drawn to the complex, seemingly multi-layered look of the back than to the front, where four or more different materials and threads are clearly visible.
So we asked them to produce it and bring the extremely complicated back side to the front.
Amedeo jackets have lapels on the upper collar, but I think it would be difficult to finish the ends of those lapels.
This is because the grain of the upper collar and the body are different.
However, this is hand-sewn fabric.
I'm wearing the machine-woven Amedeo, which is made from the same fabric but with the edges finished in a piping style.
But this...
Do you understand?
The same threads that make up the fabric are "sewn in."
I have never seen this type of specification from anyone other than Isabella Stefanelli, so I don't know what it is called, but it might be easier to understand if I say that the piping is made with the same thread as the main body.
This is the placket seen from the back.
As I said before, the back side is the actual front, so you can clearly see the fabric structure.
Because the fabric is used horizontally, the front placket is cut, but the edges of the fabric are finished in a different way to prevent fraying, using the same thread as the main body.
A brand that thoroughly incorporates the right details in every place.
Even though the "fabric edge treatment" is the same for the lapel and placket, the specifications are different depending on the area.
Isabella Stefanelli creates each and every garment to its very best specifications.
Waist pockets on both sides of the front.
The opening of this pocket is formed by cutting a slit into the fabric.
However, the pockets are still extremely sturdy.
The pocket opening is made with the same thread as the main body and is sturdy.
And although it's almost impossible to tell from the photo, if you look closely you'll see that the same thread is firmly fastened near the tip of the thumb.
And the back.
Amazing pocket structure.
Do you understand?
The pockets are made from the same handwoven fabric and are attached flat.
This is a pocket structure that has not been featured in the handwoven fabric items suitable for spring and summer that have been sold in stores until now.
This is the first time I've come across such an astounding pocket.
On the inside of the handwoven Amedeo, a handwoven pocket is sewn flat to the main body with the same threads that make up the handwoven fabric.
This is a super shocking specification for anyone to see.
It's attached firmly and securely, so I think it's safe to use.
There are no side seams.
The Amedeo has a flat-stitched seam at the center of the back.
It is threaded with Isabella's hand-dyed leather strings.
The fabric is laid horizontally at the hem, so the selvedge of the fabric will be placed there.
This also applies to the sleeves.
The back neck is made of handwoven fabric, so the weave changes halfway through.
Viewed from the rear at an angle, you can already see how the sleeves tuck into the body, promising to create a great shape when worn.
Even if you spread the sleeves slightly to the side, they will come out from the inside of the body.
The body and sleeves are integrated.
This is one key essence that, when worn, transports you to the world of Isabella Stefanelli.
No matter how you look at the inside, it has an ultra-flat structure.
The clothes are made in such a way that all processes are exposed, without being hidden by lining.
Although the clothing is ready-to-wear, as long as you choose the right size, anyone can achieve the look that Isabella Stefanelli aims for.
On top of that, it's an incredibly physical experience.
Isabella Stefanelli
Virginia
material_WOOL 80%,COTTON 20%
color _ Starrise
size_M
※Sold out
This is also a hand-woven fabric called Virginia.
This coat is made of thick fabric, using the full width of the fabric.
Virginia is very impressive.
A hand-woven fabric designed by Isabella called Starrise.
A wide variety of wool and cotton thicknesses and colors.
The fabric is made from this thread and has an extremely complex design incorporating borders, stripes, diamond patterns, etc.
On the back of the neck, about 2cm of the same fabric is attached with the vertical grain of the fabric selvedge, and it is hand-sewn with the same thread as the main body so that it protrudes about 3mm from the front, and the edges of the fabric are finished.
The body is made by using a single large piece of fabric horizontally.
The front edge of the body is hand sewn with the same thread as the main body to prevent fraying.
The sleeves are made with fabric cut horizontally.
Just like the hem of the body, the fabric edge is placed at the cuffs to make them flat.
Of course, since the fabric is used horizontally, the hem also uses the fabric edges.
Seamless, flat hem.
The length of a Virginia coat is determined by the width of the fabric, so you are wearing a single piece of hand-woven fabric.
However, what awaits you there is a world that is very different from what you would experience if you were wearing a simple, flat piece of fabric.
Virginia is an astonishing, extremely three-dimensional design.
When you spread your sleeves out without any stress, they appear to stretch straight out to the sides.
There are only three seams in the body of this Virginia coat.
All that is left is the “shoulder lines on both shoulders,” “armholes,” and “sleeves shaped like a tube” made from vertical fabric.
However, with only three stitching points, extremely intricate details are packed into the garment.
When worn, the armholes appear visually incredibly small and the sleeves fit perfectly around the arms.
You can get a glimpse of this in the side view even when hanging.
The coat called Virginia shows off Isabella Stefanelli's ultimate three-dimensional cutting and gives the wearer a rich feeling.
Of course, the pockets are made from the same handwoven fabric as the Amedeo and sewn flat, and all of the seams on the Virginia are flat as well.
No matter where you look, there are clothes that will surprise you.
However, rather than forcing it on the wearer, all the details are designed to gently and softly envelop the wearer without any discomfort.
It does not hinder any thinking and has a positive effect on the inner self of the wearer.
I think that's the way we make clothes at Isabella Stefanelli.
Isabella Stefanelli
Charles
Material: 100% wool
color _ Gold
size_S
※Sold out
A coat made from British herringbone tweed.
This coat, called Charles, is one of Isabella Stefanelli's coats with inward-facing shoulder lines.
As mentioned above, Isabella Stefanelli's clothes do not use any interlining or lining, but the Charles has a round upper collar that fits around the neck and stands up surprisingly well when worn.
I'm sure they searched for the right spot in the fabric to make the collar stand up.
If it were a normal weave, I think it would be impossible without using an interlining.
The front of the dress has a deep opening and can be buttoned up to the neck, so it can also be worn like this.
When the collar is upright it feels very floppy, but when folded back in the right position it fits perfectly around your neck.
Very flat collar.
Of course, the buttonholes are also hand sewn.
And it has a flap, a pocket I've never seen before.
Flip the flap and a magnificent world awaits.
This specification is awesome.
The pocket openings are completely hand-sewn.
It provides various benefits such as reinforcement, stretch prevention, wearing, and use.
The inner pocket itself is sewn directly into the body, just like before.
When I visited the atelier in London, they were in the middle of sewing the pockets of this coat.
Isabella told me, "This is your order," so I let her see it.
Well, it took a really long time to complete one of the pockets because it required a huge number of hand-stitching steps.
Inside.
The Charles product we sell is basically joined together with a split stitch.
This is the first time I've seen this split stitching method from Isabella Stefanelli, but I think they chose the split stitching method because it is the longest length, it's made of herringbone tweed, and the finished coat has a flowing fall, which results in the softest seam allowance.
When you turn up the cuffs, where the edges of the fabric are hand-sewn, you will see a split seam.
Very deep center vent.
However, this is not a single piece of fabric being folded.
This is a never-before-seen center vent design, with the vent made up of multiple pieces of fabric.
Densely hand-sewn vent reinforcement.
The front is made by using the fabric vertically, so the edge of the fabric is used.
The buttons are really cool.
The back has a split seam, which makes the shoulders look incredibly flat when worn.
I've never seen anything like it on a court before.
It gives a great look to the shoulder line.
The hem is cut off.
This coat has a voluminous flowing fabric and a nice color, making it look very elegant.
This gold color is size S.
I think the appropriate size is for people between 160cm and early 170cm tall.
It depends on your build.
Isabella Stefanelli
Charles
Material: 100% wool
color _ Seppia
size_L
※Sold out
This is Charles, wearing the same coat as the previous one.
It's simply a different colored fabric.
The only difference is the color and size, so the specifications are basically the same.
There may be different specifications that I'm not aware of.
The Charles itself has a look that is close to a traditional British feel, but in this Seppia colour, the hue gives it a classic look.
However, the actual fabric is overflowing with a sense of luxury.
Even though it's this earthy color, it feels like each strand of wool is glowing from deep inside.
It is herringbone tweed, so unlike Amedeo and Virginia, the fabric is used vertically.
But I know it's this color...
The grain of the back of the garment.
If you look at it with the center of the back as the axis, you will see that the herringbone pattern comes together at the center of the back.
In other words, the grain of the fabric on the bag runs diagonally.
This creates a resistance closer to gravity than the vertical grain of the fabric, resulting in the ultimate drape.
It's an endless parade of details that you rarely see in other clothes.
These are clothes that can be worn in life, spiritually, academically, and culturally.
I think that’s what Isabella creates.
Because of this, the hurdle to getting your hands on it may be quite high.
But I think it's clothing that you can feel something every time you wear it and go out.
Isabella has dedicated most of her life to making clothes.
As I wrote in my blog the other day, these clothes are very much a part of the designer himself.
Given that each piece is physically produced in one piece, not everyone can wear the clothes, but I believe there is definitely value and reason to wear Isabella Stefanelli's clothes.
With this latest delivery, our store has completed its yearly supply.
The season doesn't matter anymore, but if you find something that fits you, try it out.
It really is a wonderful outfit.