Isabella Stefanelli "Virginia"

June 15, 2024

Today we’d like to introduce you to Isabella Stefanelli.

First of all, here is the lineup we currently have in our store:

Isabella Stefanelli

Virginia

Material: LINEN, SILK, WOOL

size_L

※Sold out

Isabella Stefanelli

Gustave

material _ ORGANIC COTTON

size_S

※Sold out

Isabella Stefanelli

Oliver

material _ WOOL

size_S

※Sold out

Isabella Stefanelli

Oliver

material _ WOOL,COTTON,CASHMERE

size_M

Isabella Stefanelli

Amedeo

Material: Wool (HAND WOVEN)

size _ 4(M)

Isabella Stefanelli

Charles

material _ WOOL

size_L

※Sold out

Isabella Stefanelli is a brand that goes through an unimaginable process in the production of its clothes, and as such, its clothes are extremely complex.

That's why I think it would be impossible to introduce them all at once.

I'll introduce them little by little, if possible.

This time it's this.

Isabella Stefanelli

Virginia

Material: LINEN, SILK, WOOL

color _ DASH-GREY

size_L

※Sold out

It's amazing.

This is "Virginia".

When it comes to clothes, clothes that use thick fabrics for autumn and winter tend to have a more powerful look, don't they? Logically speaking.

However, this is not a fabric that is physically heavy or has a heavy feel to it.

Despite this, it exudes overwhelming luxury and power.

This is no joke.

So, let me tell you a little bit about that.

First, about the fabric.

I wonder if this photo conveys it?

It was apparently made in Italy by a company called Solbiati.

At present, we only see solbiati fabrics in Isabella Stefanelli's clothes, but in the dress (tailoring) genre, it is apparently referred to as "the ultimate linen."

However, while Solbiati specializes in linen fabric, Isabella Stefanelli's Virginia, which we are introducing this time, does not just use linen.

It is made from three materials: linen, silk, and wool.

In terms of texture, I feel that the fabric gives a direct sense of the presence of silk and worsted wool rather than linen.

When it comes to linen that is commonly available, it has a slightly dry feel to it and a firm core.

However, I guess this fabric doesn't use that level of linen fiber.

The dough is incredibly "melt-like".

At first, I didn't even realize there was linen in it.

In this photo, I touched the fabric a little to give it some movement.

As I said before, it has an amazing melt-in-your-mouth texture.

The fabric is so soft, smooth, and has such a luster that anyone can tell at a glance that it is ultra-luxurious.

Don't get me wrong. This isn't in the water. Lol.

This time, I took the photo indoors on a cloudy day, and when I looked to the left, I noticed something really shiny.

do you understand??

The shine that reflects when exposed to light is on another level.

And that's not all in this fabric; the white parts, I think, are silk, which is used as both the warp and weft.

The white silk thread is "intentionally made to have uneven thickness" within each thread.

If we were to compare it to Japanese fabrics, it would be something similar to the appearance of "kasuri" (splash).

An old-fashioned atmosphere amidst overwhelming luxury.

It really exudes that timeless vibe.

Also, when I first saw this fabric, I thought it was a "plain weave" based on the appearance of the fabric, but it seems that's not the case.

It has a "variegated weave" structure that is an application of plain weave.

At Isabella Stefanelli, there are two types of fabrics: woven on a loom, as in this case, and hand woven. I believe that the Virginia we are introducing this time is of quality that is in no way inferior to hand woven clothing.

In fact, I think customers who visit our store will understand that I personally love this fabric and often wear "Amedeo," which is made from the same fabric.

That's why I'm so attracted to this fabric.

This is a very exquisite fabric.

Well, if you see the real thing, I think you'll understand all of the above.

"Virginia" features a round neck and no collar.

The "Virginia" model is a piece of clothing designed by Isabella based on what Virginia Wolf, the British female novelist who lived from 1941 to 1982, might have worn when she was alive .

I think some people recognize these clothes as a symbol of the Isabella Stefanelli brand.

However, as I mentioned briefly last time when I introduced Isabella Stefanelli clothing (a shirt called Audrey) on this blog, even clothes with the same name have "different specifications" if they are made from different fabrics.

Next, the details.

One of Isabella Stefanelli's defining features is that, whenever possible, she uses fabrics in their original form.

Virginia is made by using the same fabric for both the body and sleeves.

Therefore, although a coat is a piece of clothing that has a certain length, you can think of this length as being determined by the "width" of the fabric used .

Also, as can be seen in the photo above, when the arm is spread out, its shape is clearly quite different from that of a human upper body.

And the shape of Virginia is...

The body is made of only one piece of fabric

The sleeves are also made by simply shaping one piece of fabric into a tube.

Except for the pockets and the construction of the details...

The basic structure of Virginia clothing is, as mentioned above, "one body" and "one sleeve".

With just three pieces of fabric , the shape of an ultra-transcendent garment is completed. Even though it's just a coat.

This is beyond human ability. Seriously.

This is what it looks like from behind.

So, as I said earlier, the body is made up of only one piece, so there are no seams at the back.

And what's more, what a shock...

There are no seams or darts even on the sides of the body .

In other words, it is made from a single piece of fabric, from the front edge of the garment all the way around to the front edge of the other side.

Can you believe that?

I can't believe it.

Furthermore...

"Shoulder line"

"Armhole"

"Tubular sleeves"

This is the only place where sewing takes place to create the shape of Virginia.

Isabella's extremely complex techniques, which go beyond the skills of an ordinary human being, are poured into that limited area.

There is no change in the center of the back.

A single piece of flowing body fabric.

There are no stitching anywhere, even on the sides of the body.

However, it is completely different from the outline you get when you wrap yourself in a blanket or something similar.

If you just wear a "flat piece of fabric," not only will it not fit your curvaceous upper body, but the fabric will "float" unnecessarily and you'll feel uneasy when wearing it.

Looking at the photo above, you can already get a glimpse of the ultra-quality outline of the garment when worn, even when it is on a hanger.

The secret is that it's "one of very few sewing points."

I think it's hidden by the shoulder line .

In fact, I will post a photo of me wearing it later, but without it it would have been impossible to create this Virginia shape.

There is definitely a meaning behind this shoulder line.

There's a limit to how much I can explain about the item just while it's on a hanger, so I decided to wear it.

Look at the "shoulder line."

The "shoulder line" is the only sewing point that connects the front and back body, which are made from a single piece of fabric, but...

"Shoulder line position"

and

"Angle of the shoulder line"

But it's completely different from other clothes in the world.

First, if you look just next to the neck, you will see where the shoulder line begins, but this position is completely different from the general starting position of Western clothing.

It's a few centimetres further forward than usual.

And in the photo above, I think the shoulder line is "straight."

but,,,

Look at the angle of my left hand.

This is an extremely awkward position, and his hand is raised diagonally backwards in an unclear direction.

His hand is raised at an angle that would never be the case in everyday human life.

This is what happens when you raise your hand normally and naturally.

Do you understand?

The shoulder line is no longer in a straight line, giving a bit of Isabella Stefanelli's shape.

And this...

this.

It's completely different.

Do you understand???

In this photograph, too, the left hand is raised at an angle backwards, but if the wearer looks forward like this, the front of the dress will fall straight down along the grain of the fabric.

But,

Similarly, even if you raise your left hand diagonally backwards, it has already been sewn at an extreme angle that has been determined to be "the only position possible," so the Isabella Stefanelli shape can no longer be completely hidden from behind.

In other words,

"Position" that is not common sense for clothing

and

An unconventional "angle" for clothing

The shape of Isabella Stefanelli's Virginia is created by cutting and sewing a single piece of fabric at the shoulder line.

So, if you were to disassemble the shoulder seams of this Virginia, I think you would see that the cutting of the edges of the fabric is in a way that makes you think, "That can't be true."

However, this is not something that I learned from someone else; it is something that I have developed through research and experience gained over the last 45 years of making clothes.

Furthermore, even if someone else were to try to imitate this "shoulder line structure," they would never be able to produce something of the same level.

Isabella Stefanelli's clothes can only be made by Isabella herself in the world.

The more you look at clothes from this range, the more you will be able to experience the "greatness that only Isabella Stefanelli has."

And the sleeves.

This sleeve is not just a tube. Of course.

View from the "front" while on a hanger.

View from the "rear" while in hanger position.

If you compare the two, when looking from the armhole towards the sleeve, you can see that the amount of puffiness is completely different in the front and back.

The front is sharp and the back is strongly rounded.

The armhole area seen from diagonally above the front.

The front side is the front piece, and towards the back is the back piece.

It's not so noticeable on the front sleeve, but on the back sleeve you can see the fabric gathering together due to the bumpy "ise" pattern.

This is actually very important, as it plays a major role in achieving the ultra-form that makes you feel like you can't take your clothes off when you actually wear Virginia.

I will post pictures of it being worn later, so take a good look.

cuff.

As mentioned at the beginning, Virginia uses fabric horizontally.

So, the item I'm introducing today comes with the fabric edges intact on the cuffs.

Also, if you look at this cuff, you can tell from the angle of the grain that it is not simply laid horizontally.

The hem is similar, with the fabric edges left in their original position.

This is the front fitting area.

The front left and right edges are cut off.

However, the threads at the edges have been carefully removed.

Even if they are the same Virginia, if the fabric is different, there are various types, such as those where the front edge is sewn with the thread that makes up the fabric and those where it is sewn with a different thread, but before the clothes are produced, Isabella herself determines the specifications that she considers to be the "optimal" combination of "clothing model" and "fabric", and the clothes are all processed according to those specifications.

Therefore, I think it would be good if people thought of Isabella Stefanelli's clothes as something that is once in a lifetime, not just the clothes themselves, but even the detailed specifications that create them .

And a pocket placed at the waist.

This is a double-welted piece, but the edges of both welts are incredibly thin, making them into ``kneaded balls.''

In this regard, I think the design makes it easy to see the skills of Isabella, who grew up receiving special training in tailoring, as her father was a tailor.

Well, these days, there are almost no brands that equip ready-to-wear garments with features like "kneading balls."

In our shop, Araki Yuu, who has both welts made with "Nanking welts", and Isabella Stefanelli, who always uses "kneaded welts", are unique.

Judging from the luster of the thread, the pocket opening is probably a "kneaded ball" pocket sewn by hand using thick silk thread.

Even the pockets reveal the beauty of the craftsmanship.

And this. The back side.

The back side is also packed with amazing features in limited areas.

First, this neck.

From the front, it looks like a simple raw neck, but that's not the case.

Can you see that the back of the neck is made of the same fabric as the main body?

As mentioned above, the grain of the main body runs horizontally.

However, the inside of the neck that forms the facing is made by cutting the edge of the fabric, running the grain vertically, and hand-stitching it so that the edge of the fabric edge is evenly spaced 2mm apart on the outside.

This allows the neck area to stand upright and appear balanced as designed.

I think this is a specification unique to Isabella Stefanelli, who creates unique clothes without using any interlining.

This Virginia piece also features no lining , which is said to be the "finest tailoring technique."

Interlining and lining.

Isabella Stefanelli creates clothes of the world's highest quality without using any of the "auxiliary materials" that are normally necessary and taken for granted for ordinary clothing.

Due to the nature of the clothing not having a lining, the back side is sewn perfectly flat.

Only the base stitching of the clothes is done by sewing machine, and all seams are sewn by hand to ensure that they are as flat as possible.

There's something really strange about the way clothes are made.

This is why it takes an unimaginable amount of time to complete a single garment, but the end product is of impressive ultra-high quality.

I believe that Isabella Stefanelli's clothes, when worn, have a positive effect on the wearer's or owner's "values - the way they see, perceive, and think about things."

It takes an endless amount of time and mentally draining effort to make a single piece of clothing, but I believe that this is a brand that Isabella has dedicated her life to conveying to the world what true "manufacturing" is and the "responsibility" that comes with it, something that seems to have been left behind in today's world.

Shoulder seam stitching seen from the back.

In this photo, the right side shows the back of the front piece, and the left side shows the back of the back piece.

So, if you look at the back in the photo, you can see that the twisting is quite strong on both the front and back, but in real life I think the amount of twisting is much greater on the back.

Even so, the amount of fabric has been hand-sewn in incredibly neatly.

Even the overlapping seams in the armholes are truly divine when it comes to Isabella's level.

The back seam is extremely even and flat.

And the back pocket.

Here at Virginia, the pockets are of the bag-cloth type, but there are some brands where the pockets are integrated into the garment.

The same thread is used on the back for hand stitching.

The white fabric that makes up the pocket bag is sewn together with the same fabric as the main body using a machine.

Then it is hand stitched.

So, it's fine as long as you can safely put things in it as a pocket that you can actually use.

Looking at the top of the back of the pocket, you can see that the pocket, which is subject to heavy loads, has been constructed to be sturdy by multiple stitches, including basting, running stitches and pressing down the seam allowances.

In this blog, I've been talking about one Virginia piece in particular, but if you see the actual piece, I think you'll understand just how much this piece of clothing is worth.

It's the most expensive brand in our store, but there's definitely a reason for that.

In fact, there is no reason.

Isabella Stefanelli was trained in clothing making from the age of four by her father, a tailor, and has since spent over 45 years making clothes.

It's easy to write it down in words, but if you try to do it yourself, it's almost impossible to get to that stage.

I've only been in the fashion industry for about 13 years, but when I see Isabella Stefanelli's clothes, I feel really inspired.

There's still a long way to go.

For me, work equals life, and there are a few designers who have changed my way of thinking, or more broadly, my life.

One of them is Isabella Stefanelli.

Even now, I still vividly remember being shown how clothes were made in the British atelier at that time and witnessing the way they approached things.

That's why I feel I need to continue spreading the word about this brand of clothing.

Well, that's not just a matter of my own feelings, but also because of the quality of the clothes that are actually produced.

This is life changing. Isabella Stefanelli.

In a good way.

wear.

The Virginia we are introducing this time is a large size, L.

I'm 167cm tall and weigh 52kg, so I'm big.

The perfect size for people in their mid-170cm to early 180cm height range, although it depends on your build.

The width of the body and the unique shape when the arms are spread out.

The drape starts at the shoulder and flows down from the top quality solbiati fabric.

This "embracing drape" by Isabella Stefanelli is amazing.

When viewed from the side, the drape starts from the shoulder and extends to the front and back.

Also, pay attention to the armholes.

It's hard to tell from the photo, but

If you look at the armholes, I think you can understand why there was a lot of "sewing" on the back of the sleeves.

When comparing the armhole to the sleeve, the sleeve appears thicker.

This makes the armholes appear smaller when worn, making the wearer look "stylish" and also creates an "ideal sleeve shape" by releasing the tension in the sleeves at the elbow.