Yamauchi x CASANOVA&CO x Kuzuri Keori Kogyo's Ferreira Mohair clothes that we have been telling you about so far.
The sale will begin the day after tomorrow, the 17th (Saturday), and this time I went to Mr. Yamauchi's atelier in Nagoya to talk with him about it.
In the past, I had made three types of clothes with undyed "yak wool", and at that time I posted a one-on-one interview with Mr. Yamauchi himself. This time, for my third time, I went to Mr. Yamauchi's atelier in Nagoya, where Mr. Yamauchi, Mr. Tomomi, and I had a talk.
So, this time, I will post an interview format with three people.
All of Yamauchi's clothes are born here. We will post below.
Mr. Yamauchi will be written as "Yamauchi", his wife Tomomi will be written as "Tomomi", and I will be written as "Fukuda".
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Fukuda) Yamauchi-san and Tomomi-san, thank you again for your time. I think I've heard about Kuzuri Keori when I was working on yak wool before, but I remember asking why Kuzuri Keori's fabrics were used. That's right. So, this time, please tell us why you continue to use Kuzuri Keori's fabrics.
Yamauchi) Yes. Actually, yes. What was your answer at that time? In my current self, what is it? If you ask me, first of all, if I don't like that person, I won't continue.
Fukuda) Oh, I think it was said that way before. Yamauchi) That's right. For example, when it comes to wool, Kuzuya is the only one for me, and when it comes to cotton, Fukuda Orimono is for fine counts, and Kaneta is for hard twist. For cupra, Watanabe Textile. There are not many weavers who do business with us. For Mr. Kuzuya, isn't it just combed hair? In the collection, if it is wool, it is also spun. Normally, I would, but the reason why I only use worsted hair in my collection is because I think Mr. Kuzuya's is enough.
Tomomi) That's not what I always say. I don't know if I can't do it together for a long time. Isn't that what you mean?
Fukuda) Whoa , whoa , yes. yes. yes.
Tomomi) We won't know unless we work together for a long time. In the end, even if I did it in one shot, I couldn't understand each other, I guess. Even if you think, there is no such thing as matching from the first time.
(Mr. Yamauchi) I like to slowly create things. So, if you don't know the other person, you can't do good things. Because I always say (Mr. Yamauchi) has this personality, so he's not the type to tell someone in 30 minutes or an hour the moment they meet. It's a long time, but after 10 years together, I understand. smile
Fukuda) lol
Tomomi) Even if I don't say it, the designer will contact me saying, "It looks like it will give me the feeling I like." You can get the point. It's been a long time since I've been cherishing the creation of things that have such human relationships.
Yamauchi) Naturally, it may feel like that.
Tomomi) Somewhere, until I can carefully work on one thing. I'm always thinking about that, so if it's wool, it's Mr. Kuzuri. First of all, I haven't been able to get along with this person, but next. I don't feel like that, but I do my best. That's what I'm thinking. (Mr. Yamauchi's) personality. smile
Yamauchi) Yes. Personality. smile
Fukuda) Lol It's true that Mr. Yamauchi feels like that. We talk about it all the time and I really think so. smile
Yamauchi) At that time, at that time, only this person can do this, so I will do what only that person can do. Well, next time, I'm bored, so I'm going to do different things with different people. So does the weaver. So does the dye shop. So does the processing shop. I don't have the personality to change everything like that. Simply. I don't think it's good to make things like that. Will something good come out of a one-off job? I have a doubt about that.
Fukuda) Hmm. That's right.
Yamauchi) I want to do this. I want to do this I mean, it may have been in the past. After changing the brand name from "yamoci", which I did for about 7 years, to "Yamauchi", I think that kind of awareness has changed.
Fukuda) Hmm. yes.
Yamauchi) I think that I have become less positive about making clothes where I "make what I want to make" or "express what I want to express".
Fukuda) Hmm. HM.
Yamauchi) To put it in an extreme way, it's like figuring out what the person in Kawakami wants to do and actually using that to make clothes. It wasn't until I became a brand called "Yamauchi" that my awareness changed. In making things, I no longer think it's good to make things on my own. I want to do this And.
Tomomi) Yes. It is possible to give shape to what you want to do in your own category.
Fukuda) I see.
Tomomi) That's right. If you do it on your own, with only your own will, you can do it, and the level of what you do well when you do it together is higher than the satisfaction you get when you complete something you thought on your own. I think
Yamauchi) You can probably do better things that way. I will definitely do this with my own passion. What I thought may come out depending on time and case. But in fact, I told Mr. Kuzuya that this was the best warp, that this was the weft, and this was the weave. Even if you go ahead and say, "This is absolutely good," there may be something that can be conveyed by that heat, but it's only a one-off, and I'm going to do a little more long-term project. sea bream. If you want to build a long-term relationship, what would that person want to do? I think that will become important.
Fukuda) Hmm. yes. yes.
Yamauchi) For example, this is the case with Ferreira. Since Mr. Kuzuya had this kind of thread, I wanted to try it like this. Mr. Kuzutani's inquisitiveness and passion for what I make should be more passion for each other than how I cook it. If we just say what we want to do from our point of view, I think there are times when the craftsmen will feel like, “That’s not right.” Instead, I believe that if I take in what the craftsmen want to do and cook it myself, I think I will be able to produce something better.
Fukuda) I see.
Yamauchi) Not only Kuzuri Keori, but also Fukuda Orimono and Watanabe Textile. world.
Fukuda) Oh, that's right.
Yamauchi) For me, the most comfortable way to make clothes is how to cook what the weaver makes for me. For example, it would be fine if the weaver said, "I have some leftover yarn, so maybe I should use it to make something that Mr. Yamauchi would like."
Fukuda) I see.
Yamauchi) I'm looking for something new by getting something new. Rather than that, the craftsman is thinking of something like "Yamauchi". That's also what I'm thinking about now. I think it's really good to be like that.
Fukuda) That's something that can't be born unless it's a long relationship.
Yamauchi) I think so. In such a case, the feeling of the craftsman who is actually working on it should not be a bad feeling. When I place an order, the craftsman says, "Please definitely use this. The delivery date is this, and the color must be this." , should be made with a pretty sick feeling. Rather than that, when I ask, "Do you have anything good?", I say, "I'll try it," and there are many good things that have been made with the feeling of a craftsman, and I too. Those things are easier to use. I value that kind of method, that kind of method, and I want to master that method.
Fukuda) Is that so?
Yamauchi) For example, Mr. Fukuda wanted to use this Ferreira mohair. In addition, I will also be able to join you. I think that relationship is very good. I definitely think this is the way to go. Absolutely. I don't think we talk to each other like that.
Fukuda) That's right. surely.
Yamauchi) Considering that person's intention, then what should we do? think with The way. I think this is very important for manufacturing. If you say "manufacturing that lasts", I think it's all the more true.
Fukuda) Huh? surely.
Yamauchi) I think it will be established if it is a temporary thing.
Fukuda) If it's a one-time job, it will be established, isn't it?
Yamauchi) I think it will be established, and I think there are people who make powerful things with it. However, since I started thinking about long-term things, I don't think it's very meaningful to achieve results with one-off things. After all, what I think is also quite long-term. So, the range that I can continue to do is another 20 years. I'm 45 now. Also, you know very well what you can do in 20 years.
Fukuda) Yes. yes. Yamauchi) Considering the long history of mankind, 20 years is very short. That's why I think that this is all I can do (with a small hand). It would be nice if the next person could do it.
Fukuda) I see.
Yamauchi) I really think like that. The other day, when I had a conversation with Mr. Kuzuya, he also said the same thing.
Fukuda) Oh, yes. yes. The other day, when I called Mr. Kuzuya on the phone, Mr. Kuzuya also said something like that.
Yamauchi) Ah, were you told?
Fukuda) You said that.
Yamauchi) Humans kept sheep, sheared the wool, and spun it to make woolen fabric. From that history, we are really only a very small part of that history. There is really only a little range that we can do. That is what the predecessor did, what the generation before that came, and what the generation after that did. It's important to inherit that and pass it on to the next generation.
Fukuda) I see.
Yamauchi) It's not something that I want to do, but rather, I inherit what I've done so far and pass it on to the next generation. Put some thoughts on it. I think that's enough. Otherwise, I don't think it will be possible to continue manufacturing in Japan in the future. Unless you feel that way. If we adopt a method such as innovatively changing it ourselves, I think it probably includes denying the way of the predecessor.
Fukuda) Oh, yes. yes.
Yamauchi) That's too much. If you think about the history you've come to, even people before you have thought in the same way. .
Fukuda) I see.
Yamauchi) Because there is such a place. Why do you continue to work with Mr. Kuzuya? Besides, I feel like I've already made up my mind. I don't really have the feeling that I'm someone other than Kuzuya-san.
Tomomi) Mr. Kuzuya was the first person to care about "Mule Thing".
Fukuda) That's right.
Tomomi) That's right. When I started "Yamauchi", I sewed "cotton and linen" together and made mille-feuille even in the fall and winter seasons.
Fukuda) Yes. that's right. There was no wool. Tomomi) Yes. No wool or animal hair was used. In that way, I used to make collections where I wanted to give thickness to the fabric, so when I met Mr. Kuzuri Keori and asked Mr. Kuzuya, "Why aren't you using it?" from. At that time, I said, "I'm worried about mulesing, so I don't use it." It was Mr. Keori Kuzuri, a long-established store, who suggested this.
Fukuda) That's right.
Tomomi) I never thought that Mr. Keori Kuzuri would do it.
Yamauchi) That's right. When Mr. Kuzuya asked me why I didn't use wool in Yamauchi, I told him honestly.
Fukuda) Then, at that time, there was no transaction. Yamauchi) Yes. I knew my wife. Mr. Kuzuya happened to be.
Fukuda) Was that so? lol Tomomi) lol It's not like I'm an acquaintance. Before I came to Yamauchi, I was doing it myself, so at that time there were many opportunities for me to connect with others.
Fukuda) That's right.
Tomomi) That's right. Then go into the mountains. We also run a men's brand in Aichi Prefecture, so please come and see us. I made an announcement about the exhibition.
Fukuda) Yes.
Tomomi) At that time, you really came to see me.
Fukuda) Was it when Tomomi entered and yamoci (the predecessor brand name of Yamauchi)?
Tomomi) Yes. The time of yamoci. Was it after I became Yamauchi?
Yamauchi) I think it's a last-minute timing. At that time, Mr. Kuzuya invited me to the exhibition.
Tomomi) So, I asked Mr. Kuzuya to come to the exhibition. It was during the autumn/winter season, but I was like, "This is the AW collection, isn't it?" Because there were only cotton and hemp. "This is not an SS, is it?" "Is there any reason why you don't use wool?" I told him, "I'm just not using it because I'm worried about the mulesing." Mr. Kuzuya asked me, "It's not that you don't want to use it, but if it's not mulesed wool, do you want to use it?" I said, "I really want to use it, but I'm just not using it because my mulesing got stuck."
Fukuda) Is that so? I see.
Tomomi) How many years ago was that?
Fukuda) That's right. When I first started working with Yamauchi, there was no wool. So, after several years of handling it, wool came out. No mulesing wool. Tomomi) That's right. It is displayed in the upper right corner of it (a certificate of no mulesing wool was displayed in the atelier).
Tomomi) You can do it like that. Think. Because we have a long history, they paid attention to us. I think that (Mr. Yamauchi) also likes Mr. Kuzuya's personality.
Yamauchi) Yes. Really. There were many things that I could sympathize with what Mr. Kuzuya said. I am always learning a lot.
Fukuda) That's what Mr. Yamauchi says on a daily basis. About Mr. Kuzuya. everytime. And I heard that too, ah? and. You often come up in conversations with Mr. Yamauchi. What Mr. Kuzuya is talking about.
Yamauchi) If everyone is working on something, life will be troubled, isn't it?
Fukuda) Yes. yes.
Yamauchi) At that time, I think about various things in my own way, think about life, think about work, think about my friends. When various things happen in front of me, I have a habit of looking at myself "inside myself" again instead of looking outward.
Fukuda) Whoa. Is that so.
Yamauchi) At that time, to put it cool, it's like a "reason". What am I living for? And. Why do I feel this way? And. There are times when you worry about your “way of life” itself.
Fukuda) Yes. I think it will be like that no matter how old you are.
Yamauchi) That was what I was talking to Mr. Fukuda at that time. (*I arrived at the atelier earlier than I had planned, so I was waiting for Tomomi, who had gone out with her daughter, to come back. What I was talking about at that time) What is work for? I wonder if they are doing it. What is the reason for being alive? When I thought about it that way, the stories of the conservative thinkers made a lot of sense to me. If there is a difference in thinking between "conservative and innovative", which is often said when reading various books and seeing and hearing various things. I was very convinced by the talk of the person who said conservative things. I don't really agree with the story of innovative people.
Fukuda) That's right.
Yamauchi) So, Mr. Kuzuya often tells the same story. The fact that we have inherited a family business that has been around for about 110 years means the concept of "maintenance" and "protection". And if we call a movement that fits the times "innovation", I think it's only natural that there should be a movement for "innovation even among conservatives." But mostly conservative. Instead of turning it into an innovative idea right away, protect it first. Listening to what older people say.
Fukuda) Yes.
Yamauchi) Such an idea made a lot of sense to me. When you think about it that way, you can see what you've done so far and what your shortcomings are. After all, when you act on your own will, it affects the people around you, and the people around you may rebel. However, it's still better to rush, but I can't do that easily. I think a conservative move suits me better if I'm going to cooperate with my surroundings. In addition, in the midst of what we are trying to do now, what is important in the decline of Japanese manufacturing is that it should be more conservative rather than innovative. Kuzuya-san and I often talk about it. I agree with that very much.
Fukuda) Hmm. I see. Yamauchi) After all, in the streets, innovative movements such as new ways of thinking and movements that have never existed before are touted.
Fukuda) Certainly. That's right.
Yamauchi) In the first place, fashion is all innovation in creating new things. Some people say that, but I don't think it goes that far. I want to be conservative and mindset.
Fukuda) Oh?
Yamauchi) I want to be like that. When I talked with Mr. Kuzuya, he said that it is not good to act in a way that fits the current age in terms of "conservative" thinking. However, Mr. Kuzutani is "conservative, acting in accordance with the times." That's why I thought that that kind of movement was good when I saw Mr. Kuzuya. Never do anything new. Rather, I think it is necessary to have a way of moving that matches the times. That is not to deny the previous person, but to "maintain" something that must be changed. That means.
Fukuda) I see.
Yamauchi) That's why I was very convinced by Mr. Kuzuya's story. Innovative even in maintenance. I'm already talking about this all the time...lol everyone) lol
Fukuda) Listening to what you just said, Mr. Yamauchi says he wants to be "conservative", but I have something on my mind. In the world, what kind of things do you do in making fabrics and clothes? Even if there are brands that talk about the specs, I don't think there were any brands that focused on the "sewing" process before Mr. Yamauchi. right. In a way, I think it was a movement of "innovation".
Yamauchi) Yes.
Fukuda) However, in the midst of the long-standing reputation of Japan as a manufacturing superpower, and the fact that it is made in Japan, I wonder if it was to "maintain" Japanese clothing manufacturing. I thought so again. And at that time, I think there were many people who thought that it was a very new movement.
Yamauchi) Yes. I think that the way that light is applied is something that other brands haven't been able to do much. However, I think that by continuing to do that, you will think that it was not a temporary thing. It's not a business talk.
Fukuda) Certainly.
Yamauchi) If we don't continue this for a long time, we won't be able to convince those who have seen it that way. That's why we think we have to continue for a long time, and this is what we really want to do. So, as a way of thinking, it is "conservative". I wasn't really trying to do anything new. It's just that the part that I really like, the part that doesn't get the light, I put the light on.
Fukuda) That's right.
Yamauchi) However, all the weavers I work with now are like that. Not only Kuzuya, Fukuda Textile was the second generation, Watanabe Textile was the second generation, and Kaneta was the second or third generation.
Fukuda) Did you feel that way?
Yamauchi) So, the factory that does Arimatsu's shibori is also the 5th or 6th generation. Fukuda) Are you Mr. Kuno?
Yamauchi) Yes. Mr. Kuno. It's not like everyone started doing it in their own generation, so in that sense, it's completely different from modern work. I'm taking over the family business, so if you say conservative, I'm conservative.
Fukuda) Oh , I see. surely. That's right.
Yamauchi) Even if I wanted to start a weaving shop now, I think it would be quite difficult.
Fukuda) Oh, sure. It would be very difficult to start a weaving shop from now on. surely.
Yamauchi) So what I'm doing is not particularly unusual. It may have just happened that it seemed unusual to shed light on sewing.
Fukuda) But relatively, no one is doing it, so let's do it. Mr. Yamauchi, instead of the idea of
Tomomi) I liked it. smile
Yamauchi) It's the same with brand names. I'm not saying that romaji is good, but I just thought it would be better if I used my name fairly and openly.
Fukuda) lol
Yamauchi) I just thought it would be better to put my feet on the ground and be "Yamauchi", but I don't have any awareness that I would stand out if I did this.
Fukuda) I see. Well, you're not the type to think like that. Mr. Yamauchi. smile
Tomomi) But at first, there were times when I thought that it was the opposite of what I was thinking. Whether the focus is on sewing or whether the brand name is written in kanji.
Fukuda) Certainly.
Tomomi) There are also people who think that you shouldn't attack.
Yamauchi) But there were some buyers who actually wanted to handle it. We will decide whether it will be caught by customers as catchy and whether it will sell. That's what I was told. From the looks of it, it might not look like that.
Tomomi) But, well, let's meet. lol that's not it. smile
Fukuda) That's right. lol you'll know when you meet. (laughs) Tomomi) I simply thought of it in the same way as clothes.
Fukuda) This time, we will have you stand at the store, so if you meet Mr. Yamauchi, you will understand and feel it. Lol But recently, Mr. Yamauchi's real voice is appearing in the gallery shop video. I think everyone who sees it will agree.
Tomomi) Recently, (Mr. Yamauchi) often says that I am the most normal. That's what I'm saying. They say that everyone around them is different. Me too. Also the staff.
Fukuda) But doesn't that mean that Mr. Yamauchi has become very round? LOL I think Tomomi-san used to say that.
Tomomi) lol. In the past, there were times when I had sharp eyes that would hurt me. smile
Fukuda) lol
Tomomi) I've been scolded for the same thing many times, but the point is that I'm doing my best, doing a brand, or selling my soul. In order to find this and convey it, I had to concentrate hard, so I was so nervous that I was so nervous. Now, I say, "I'm a really normal human being."
Fukuda) lol
Tomomi) That's why I'm making things that make use of my strengths. Do you have patience or like to be beautiful? I'm just taking it in the direction of developing that kind of personality. Designers usually have a sense that they have changed. Isn't it something to appeal to? Honestly, I'm normal. When I was told that, I laughed. . . smile
Fukuda) lol
Tomomi) What I'm trying to do is neither throwing a curve ball nor pretending to be eccentric. That's what it means. I just want to do "manufacturing that lasts" without changing from the old days. Like this, but it's simple but it goes a long way. I'm just doing it without changing it. That's 10 years, being together 24 hours a day, I feel like that's what it really is.
Fukuda) That's right.
Tomomi) I think that manufacturing is something that people have to do in order to live, and that it should not be lost.
Fukuda) Yes. yes.
Tomomi) It's the same with human relationships. It's not something that just pops out and can be done in a flash, and with digital manufacturing, it can be erased in a flash. Do you want to start over from scratch or return to a certain point? Do you want to stop returning after all? Clothes are analog manufacturing that can't be done like that.
Fukuda) Yes. yes.
Tomomi) For example, even if you say how you feel about the texture of the thread, it's natural. . . How is the rain, or how are the animals feeling? I think we should stop making things on earth.
Fukuda) Huh? I see. Making clothes is very analog. indeed.
Fukuda) Next, you talked about how you first met Mr. Keori Kuzuri, so please tell us about the seamstress.
Yamauchi) It's not a special order this time, but it's related to what I was talking about earlier. That's "Yoko Yamashita" who was with me in the video.
Fukuda) Yes.
Yamauchi) I've already told everyone. It is also the reason for the birth of the brand. It can be said that the reason I changed from the sole proprietor yamoci brand to Yamauchi was when I met him.
Fukuda) Whoa .
Yamauchi) Without a doubt, Yoko is the one who gave me the opportunity. Yamashita: I once had Yoko sew a sample shirt for me. When I saw how wonderful the finished product was, I was pretty confident in my sewing skills. When I saw Yoko's shirt, I was really impressed.
Fukuda) Can you tell us specifically how it was?
Yamauchi) Specifically, the details, of course. The collar is beautiful and the stitching is fine, but the moment I put it on the hanger. I was moved.
Fukuda) Was it completely different?
Yamauchi) It's completely different. very. Really, this is amazing. That's what it feels like. Tomomi) Rarely did you get excited.
Yamauchi) It's not a beautiful expression, it's already amazing. Of course it's beautiful. If you look at how the collar is attached and how the cuffs are attached, of course everything is beautiful. But when it all comes together and hangs on a hanger, it's great. That's what it feels like. Anyone who sees this should feel it. I think so. In particular, I sewed myself, and I was confident about it, but I felt an overwhelming difference.
Fukuda) Whoa .
Yamauchi) As a seamstress, I thought that clothes would change so much, and that was the reason. At that time, the person who was sewing in the atelier had been sewing for more than 10 years. When I saw the sewing of the person working in the atelier, I thought, "This person is a god."
Fukuda) Oh , is that so?
Yamauchi) Yes. I called him "God" back then. Then, one day, I asked him if he knew anyone because the samples weren't ready in time. I was introduced. That person is Yoko. So I asked him to sew it for me. I thought, "This is God."
All) lol
Yamauchi) I discovered "Kami no Kami". That's what I thought. When I saw the sewing, I wanted Yoko to sew all of them. However, when I heard Yoko-san's story, I was told that the job of sewing cannot be eaten. Even someone like Yoko can't make a living, and the wages are simply low, and when you think about the time it takes to sew one dress, the money for sewing is very cheap.
Fukuda) Yes.
Yamauchi) At that time, such a good person was buried. I thought. where I don't know I think there are still more such people in Japan, and I want to work with them. Thinking so, I practically quit sewing at that point.
Fukuda) Yes. I see.
Yamauchi) Mentally, I can't beat these people. I thought. I just want to make clothes with these people. I thought so too.
Fukuda) Look at their sewing. is not it.
Yamauchi) Yes. When I was doing the yamoci brand, I was doing everything myself. I did sewing, patterning, designing, processing, and dyeing. I was doing it by myself.
Fukuda) That's right.
Yamauchi) Only then can you create something with originality. That's what a brand is. That's what I was thinking. Your own. My true self. At the time, I thought there was value in what I was able to do.
Fukuda) I see.
Yamauchi) Besides, I thought that if it wasn't so, I wouldn't be able to forgive myself. There are many things I don't like when I ask people. It won't even be the color you want to dye. In that case, I thought I could dye it myself, make it myself, and process it myself, and that was the brand called yamoci. But after having Yoko sew it for me. "From that day on, I stopped thinking about it." It was so shocking.
Fukuda) Huh.
Tomomi) You said that you have a sense of sewing.
Yamauchi) Yes. At the time, I even thought that people who sewed things had no taste. To put it very simply.
Fukuda) Yes. yes.
Yamauchi) I thought engineers had no sense.
Fukuda) At that time?
Yamauchi) Yes. At that time, I thought that people in positions such as designers like myself would talk about sense. I overshadowed that idea. I felt that when the people who sew, the craftsmen, and the technicians come to such a high level, their sense comes out.
Fukuda) Whoa .
Yamauchi) I used to think that the job of an engineer was to do exactly what he was told. I thought there was technology, not sense.
Fukuda) I see. That is the case of the "category of professional craftsmen" that Mr. Yamauchi said.
Yamauchi) Yes. When you become a true craftsman, you have a sense.
Fukuda) I see.
Yamauchi) That's right. This was a shock. I can feel it. For that person's sewing. I don't sew mechanically, I have a sense. I think that's what this means. For example, the samples made in the atelier are very good. Even if they are made by inexperienced people, the samples made in the atelier have power.
Fukuda) Whoa.
Yamauchi) For example, it's made by people who have feelings for the clothes. It has sense and power. Not technology. That's why, as I said earlier, I thought that if there was technology, there would be no sense, and in short, I thought that sense was in another place. The people in the atelier are full of their hearts, so they can do good things without any technical skills. A sense dwells. That's why I thought that if I sent it to an outsourcer, it wouldn't have any sense, and it would just be mechanically finished beautifully. But it was different. The idea is completely different.
Fukuda) Whoa .
Yamauchi) When engineers aim high, they also have good taste. That's what I found out. I keep saying the same thing. lol But it really is.
Tomomi) Yoko was the one who understood me. It's not just that I want to show off my skills.
Fukuda) Yes. yes. yes. Is that so.
Tomomi) Mr. Yamauchi, what kind of things do you like? What kind of beauty do you think is cool as men's clothing? After properly understanding that, Yoko-san's experience was put on top of it.
Yamauchi) That's why, if the technique is high, it doesn't mean that the sense resides. It's because of Yoko. The point is that he is a true "craftsman".
Fukuda) That's right. A real craftsman when there are "professional craftsmen" and "craftsmen".
Yamauchi) Yes. A true craftsman understands the client's intentions. That is someone who thinks to the point of tailoring it to the client's liking. Clothes made by such craftsmen have a sense of style.
Fukuda) I see.
Yamauchi) I don't feel that way about people who push technology on their own based on their own ideas. I think that making good things means making things with the other person in mind.
Fukuda) Hmm. HM. HM.
Yamauchi) So, let's go back to the very beginning. When I unilaterally tell them that I want to make it like this, the craftsman says so, so let's make it. I just think. There is no sense in the finished product. A sense resides in what the craftsman wants to propose to this person, or what he wants to do in this way. That's how I want my clothes to be.
Fukuda) I see. This is exactly what I was talking about earlier (what Tomomi was talking about before he came back). .
Yamauchi) I think so. You can do something good because you do it for someone else. Now, I believe this to be the case. What you do for yourself is not good at all. I can say that. When you're young, you might think so. To be interested in things that you do for yourself.
Fukuda) Yes. yes. Yamauchi) For example, I am attracted to people who are called artists and do something with their individuality. But in reality, people who have fans should never do it on their own.
Fukuda) Well , I guess so. surely.
Yamauchi) I'm sure you're doing it for your fans. So even if there are people who admire that and want to be like that, I don't think they will have fans.
Fukuda) I see.
Yamauchi) I think so. If you talk only about yourself, you won't be interested. Something that gives people power should not be something that imposes your own ideas on them.
Fukuda) I see. That's a really good story.
Yamauchi) Is that so?
All) lol
Yamauchi) I felt that from Yoko. He listens very well. For example, this kind of conversation is fine. Ah, Mr. Yamauchi is such a person. Those who understand and make things. What do you want to do with this detail? It's not a story, but something more nuanced.
Fukuda) I see.
Yamauchi) "Do you like soft lines?" "Do you like firm lines?" Also, it can be more abstract. What do you mean? "I like very masculine things, but it feels delicate." Surprisingly, it's the opposite, isn't it?
Fukuda) Yes. Sounds difficult.
Yamauchi) Sounds difficult, doesn't it? "I'm masculine, but I like beautiful things." If you tell him so, he will raise it. It's like that.
Fukuda) Wow ~ . Really. very. You're a craftsman.
Yamauchi) A true craftsman. After all, I would like to meet more people like that. Surprisingly, I think there are still people like that, but the percentage is probably small. Anything made by these people is definitely worth it. That's exactly what the four people who sewed the Ferreira mohair clothes this time are really like that.
Fukuda) Yes.
Yamauchi) The seamstresses I'm currently working with are people who are willing to help me. So does Narikiyo. Mr. Okamoto too. Mr. Sano too. Also, I can't name one person. The point is, if you don't do that kind of thing together for a long time, you won't know this either. There has to be enough information to absorb.
Fukuda) Yes. yes. yes. I see.
Yamauchi) That's why I'm still talking with Yoko about what kind of things I like.
Fukuda) Is that so?
Yamauchi) I want to spotlight those people. Patterns are of course important, but I believe that the seamstress has the power to dramatically change clothes.
Fukuda) Whoa. is that so.
Yamauchi) Of course, I also respect pattern makers. However, if anything, I think the power of the seamstress is higher to change the look of the clothes. Fukuda) I see. It's a real experience.
Yamauchi) Yes. I see it in clothes. Of course, the silhouette is important, and clothes are silhouettes. Some people say. However, I don't think that sewing people can't create silhouettes. You can create a silhouette by sewing.
Fukuda) Yes. yes.
Yamauchi) It was after I met Yoko that I started to think that way.
Fukuda) I see.
Yamauchi) I think people think that round silhouettes and curvy silhouettes are only for pattern work. it is not. Of course, this is part of the job of the pattern maker, but the power of sewing is great.
Fukuda) Yes. yes.
Yamauchi) Actually, there are times when we make things with the same pattern but different fabrics. Of course, the pattern is absolutely necessary as a starting line, but it is the sewing person who actually changes it.
Fukuda) Yes. yes.
Yamauchi) However, sewing is the most neglected part of clothes. I don't think so.
Fukuda) Yes.
Yamauchi) Yes. For me, the person I can respect the most is the sewer. Fukuda) Yes. yes.
Yamauchi) Also, my personality. I want to see it in detail. When I look at clothes, I also like to think, "Oh, how detailed."
Fukuda) lol
Tomomi) Of course, the better the pattern, the better it will be if you adjust it to take advantage of the characteristics of the fabric.
Fukuda) That's exactly right.
Yamauchi) But that is still difficult to see in mass production, especially super-mass production.
Fukuda) Yes. And since there are so many of them, it's getting harder to see. That number is already overwhelming. I think that even the field of watching sewing is not going up.
Yamauchi) Yes. After that, how should the brand launch itself? When you think about it, sewing is hard to spot. After all, there is usually an unspecified number of people sewing, and there is nothing more difficult than bringing good or bad technology there. If so, they will try to compete with silhouettes, designs, and textiles. In other words, it's hard to say anything other than that. clothes.
Fukuda) I think so. Normally, it's not even circular stitching like Mr. Yamauchi is doing.
Yamauchi) When it comes to a large scale brand, who sews it? It's impossible to say, so it's going to be a design, an image. Even if you step into it, it's only about competing with patterns, and it's becoming difficult to think about in general. That's how it is with clothes. That's why I want to put a spotlight on such seamstresses. Fukuda) That's right.
Fukuda) Well then, finally, clothes using Ferreira mohair this time. Tomomi-san, Yamauchi-san, what did you think when you saw the finished product? I don't usually ask people what they think of clothes like this, lol
Yamauchi) Did you see the pants?
Tomomi) I saw it and tried it on.
Fukuda) You sent me one earlier, right?
Tomomi) Yes. Yamauchi and Kuzuri are the ones who make the clothes themselves, but I felt that Fukuda was the one who made the final product.
Yamauchi) That's why our manufacturing is what we were talking about earlier. I've been thinking about what kind of thing Mr. Fukuda is looking for, and of course, I think I'm a "Yamauchi" color.
Fukuda) Certainly, when we had the jacket and pants made from scratch, we spent many months talking back and forth about what to make.
Yamauchi) First, I chose this Ferreira fabric. I knew about this material from before, but I couldn't use it. I couldn't use it all up, specifically because the unit price of the fabric is very, very high, so I can't use it in my collection. After all, it was very expensive, so in this project, Mr. Fukuda said, "This is it," and we were able to make a start. I think it means that they could be used together.
Fukuda) That's right. First of all, after I know Ferreira, I will definitely do it when the time comes. It was the material I thought. First of all, when I went to Mr. Kuzuri, I was wondering what kind of fabric he would make with Ferreira mohair.
Yamauchi) I went there because of Ferreira mohair.
Fukuda) Yes.
Yamauchi) Moreover, it ended up being really expensive. If it wasn't for Mr. Fukuda, I wouldn't have been able to come up with that idea. We've talked about it before, but when we make this as a collection, the coat will be the same price. I want to try what I want to try, but if I can only make a few pieces, I can't even make the fabric.
Fukuda) Yes.
Yamauchi) I was able to ride it because Mr. Fukuda said he would go with it because it was Mr. Fukuda's special order to do it in a certain amount. On the contrary, I am grateful that I was allowed to use it. this fabric.
Tomomi) Yes.
Fukuda) Oh~. is that so.
Yamauchi) I didn't know how much it was.
Tomomi) I think you can feel Mr. Fukuda's spirit. Spirit, isn't it? This project.
Fukuda) Spirit.
Tomomi) Spirit. Mr. Fukuda's spirit was revealed in this project, wasn't it?
Fukuda) Could you say so? smile
Tomomi) Yes. The first time was when I went to Okayama before the Tokyo exhibition. You were worried about what to do with threads and fabrics, weren't you?
Fukuda) Yes.
Tomomi) It started from that time.
Yamauchi) The first fabric sample was rejected. Good is good.
Tomomi) Yes. More and more.
Fukuda) Yes. I was looking for more. smile
Tomomi) So, with this high unit price, the more proper the clothes are, the more you use this color instead of the usual "black" color. Fukuda's dashi. That's all there is to it, so please take a look. I'm feeling. This is. Especially if you know Mr. Fukuda, it's finished in Mr. Fukuda's color.
Fukuda) Yes.
Tomomi) If you follow Yamauchi's line all the time, you'll be able to feel the essence of Mr. Fukuda's color. Fukuda) Thank you for saying that. I certainly think so myself. LOL Tomomi) Right. smile
Fukuda) I also think that there is absolutely no point in doing something like this if it is a color that is common in Yamauchi. That's why I think it's very important that the feeling of Casanova comes out. But, well, how about making clothes with Ferreira mohair this time! I don't want to do that at all. For the customers who bought it, it was definitely good to buy it. Of course, I think it's clothes that can really impress you, so this coloring was also important. It's the same with the usual selection, but there's a feeling of looking closely.
Tomomi) Yes. yes.
Fukuda) That's why there are times when customers who come to see me say things like, "What is that?" There is a meaning, there is a reason, and there is more than that. I think that is very important. I always keep that in mind. So, if Ferreira's clothes are black, I wonder if there's a reason for them to pick them up. On top of that, I think it's a color that doesn't deviate from the "Yamauchi" brand.
Yamauchi) I've heard that from Mr. Fukuda everywhere. "If it's Mr. Yamauchi," "What did Mr. Yamauchi do?", "Do you think this is good?"
Fukuda) lol
Tomomi) You asked me a lot of questions like, "What did Mr. Yamauchi do?" smile
Fukuda) Yes. Lol Anyway, I wanted to cherish the close contact with Mr. Yamauchi's reaction.
Yamauchi) I think I was able to make it like this because I worked with Mr. Fukuda. It's a different way to place an order than usual.
Fukuda) That's right.
Yamauchi) It's a completely different method than usual, and I'm going to be with you. It sounds like you had a lot of fun moving forward. But the colors we didn't make ourselves, but they didn't deviate from us, and the same goes for jackets, coats, and pants. It has Mr. Fukuda's elements, but it also has Yamauchi's essence, so it's a project that made it possible. I haven't fallen either way and I think it's completely new. But it has nuances from both, so the balance is very good.
Fukuda) That's right.
Tomomi) I think this exquisite balance is only possible when there is a relationship of trust.
Fukuda) When I first went to Mr. Yamauchi and Mr. Keori Kuzuri, I remember talking about what to make and how to make it in the car on the way home.
Yamauchi) It's changed, isn't it? various.
Fukuda) It has changed. There were really twists and turns. smile
Yamauchi) There were twists and turns. smile
Fukuda) However, at the very end, I think that something really good has been completed, as you said earlier.
Yamauchi) I really think so. I think we have created something very good.
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that's all. As I told you, it will go on sale from the 17th (Sat).
And on the first day, Mr. and Mrs. Yamauchi will be at the store all day. If you like it, I would be happy if you could look forward to it and come to the store. I don't think the level of clothing is edgy, so please come to the store with great expectations. We are looking forward to your visit.