Yesterday, I introduced COMOLI, and today I will introduce Yamauchi.
It's a very beautiful shirt.
This time, a new type of salt-shrinking shirt, which has been the most representative item in Yamauchi so far.
Until now, it was a mixed weave fabric of cotton and linen, but this time it is 100% cotton.
However, "kasuri lattice".
It's a lattice, so it's a checkered pattern, but most of the normal checks are straight from end to end.
This time, of course, it's a straight line, but by making it with "kasuri", which is unique to Japan, it gives a completely different impression.
On top of that, the strong "salting process" is done by hand at a processing plant in Yamanashi Prefecture.
Thanks to this, a very tasteful "check with shades of kasuri" was born.
Yamauchi
Salt-shrunk Cotton Kasuri Lattice Shirt (with Feather Collar)
face material _ COTTON 100%
lining material _ COTTON 55%, CUPRO 45%
color _ KASURI RED
size_2,3,4,5
here.
This time, our store only handles collars.
Up until now, I've mainly focused on things without collars.
First, look here.
The kasuri threads are uneven and the borders of the lines are ambiguous, and they disappear.
A very beautiful fabric that makes you forget the time and keep looking at it.
Not all of them have the same expression, but the thick and thin parts of the threads, and the colored threads that look faded.
With such expressions, you can truly feel the depth of Japan that is common to traditional Japanese clothes.
For example, a check pattern like "ink painting".
This fabric is Yamauchi's original fabric, but it was designed and woven by Fukuda Orimono in Shizuoka Prefecture.
When Mr. Yamauchi from Yamauchi went to Fukuda Orimono, he saw traditional kasuri threads and requested this fabric.
The kasuri threads used are of two different thicknesses.
This thread is said to be made by Fukuda Orimono.
Until now, salt-shrinking shirts were only plain, and the structure of the fabric was twill weave, but this time we used plain weave to create a Kasuri lattice.
And it's not just that shady look.
this fabric.
In the case of traditional kasuri, threads that are relatively thick, rough, and have unevenness and fluffiness are used, but this thread is completely different.
Based on very fine thread, the fluff of the thread is removed to create a very smooth texture.
It is woven densely with plain weave.
It's spring and summer, so it's not a solid fabric, but the fine threads are woven with a solid density, so you can feel a sense of trust.
Even when viewed from a distance, the fabric has a natural unevenness that is typical of Japan.
The appearance is very beautiful.
back.
The depth of the fabric is created by manually soaking it in a highly concentrated salt-condensed liquid.
This process is rarely done today, and the world is quite chemical, so it requires very specialized skills, but when it comes to clothes, it is full of benefits.
The manual salt-shrinking process creates shrinkage, giving the kasuri lattice a more unique appearance rather than being flat.
If you look closely, you'll notice that the large amount of shrinkage due to the salt shrinkage is not in the base white plain weave, but in the kasuri threads.
The kasuri threads are made with two different thicknesses, so the difference in the thickness of the threads adds to the unevenness.
And it's not just the fabric that's beautiful.
It's "Yamauchi" who makes this into clothes.
"Yamauchi"'s specialty sewing technique is transcendentally poured.
Well, in order to make the most of the atmosphere of the fabric, salt-shrinking shirts basically do not expose the stitches on the front as much as possible.
Let me introduce some details.
As mentioned earlier, there are almost no stitches to join the fabrics on the front.
And the placket is also absent from the table.
There are no exposed stitches on the body, yoke, armholes, and collar.
The hem is gently rounded.
I know it when I see it.
Also, although it's hard to see in the photo, stitches appear on the hem of the body.
A collar that stands neatly three-dimensionally.
The sharp tip of the collar and the angle of the collar are also outstanding.
And this shirt.
Fully lined with 55% cotton, 45% cupro.
The lining is a thin twill weave, but it feels super comfortable against the skin.
What's more, the way the lining is attached is amazing.
I've introduced it many times on this blog so far, but it's amazing no matter how many times I see it.
Although it is sewn on top of the outer material, it is perfectly sewn without any distortion or distortion.
back. front side.
Rather than simply lining, all the processing is done very carefully, it is exactly "a shirt that goes beyond a shirt".
back. rear side.
Since the stitches do not appear on the surface, the sewing specifications are basically bag stitching, but it is not only the outer material.
The lining is also bag-stitched at the same time.
And since there is lining, the thickness of the seam allowance is unavoidable, and piping is used in places where bag sewing is not suitable.
It's not like an overlock.
Piping specifications at the joint of the armhole and two sleeves.
The piping can be stitched without distortion from the edge of the fabric, even in places where the armhole curve is tight.
Furthermore, the back processing of the two sleeves of the masterpiece.
I'll talk about it later, but Yamauchi's shirt has a special design for the sword rags.
I handle it properly behind the scenes.
In order to realize the appearance of the clothes that Mr. Yamauchi is aiming for, even if it is a special specification, he will carefully work on the inside.
This is Yamauchi's clothes.
And this is the cuff of Yamauchi's shirt.
Cuffs are angular type.
So, the sleeve opening there.
The opening part of this sleeve is something that uses the switching of two sleeves,
Compared to other shirts, Yamauchi's shirt has a deeper layer of fabric at the opening.
If I compare it with a jacket, I think of it as an image of a double jacket.
this.
Large overlapping area.
The reason for this is that Mr. Yamauchi is very meticulous, but when he puts on a shirt, he doesn't want the cufflinks fastened and the sleeves popping open, revealing the inner layer and skin.
Men's clothes should be more thoughtful. With the idea.
By paying attention to even the smallest details and putting your hands into them, clothes that can be loved for a long time are born.
That's why the shirt is finished with so much attention to detail that you can't imagine with other shirts.
The place where the cuffs open like this is the part where you can see and experience it.
Then there's this buttonhole.
Of course, the button itself uses a super-luxury button called "white butterfly shell", but the buttonhole is also very dangerous.
The buttonhole has an ultra-high-density needle movement that firmly grips the fabric and yet is tightly stitched.
It's the complete opposite of yesterday's COMOLI stripe series. smile
Currently, in our store, clothes with the coarsest buttonholes in Japan and clothes with the finest buttonholes in Japan coexist.
Please take a look and compare. smile
And this shirt is sewn by "Fashion Izumi" in Saitama Prefecture.
At our store, Yamauchi and tilt The authentics are sewn by Fashion Izumi.
Mr. Nakatsu of tilt The authentics says that Mr. Mizude's stitching quality has been honed with Yamauchi's shirt.
As I mentioned at the beginning, this Yamauchi lined, salt-shrunk shirt is a quality shirt that symbolizes the brand, and has been around for many years.
Of course, it's the first time I've ever had a pattern like this one.
I have several of these shirts.
Anyway, there are a lot of moving parts.
Perhaps I tend to look more closely at clothes than other select shops, but for me personally, it all started when I met Mr. Yamauchi through this Yamauchi shirt.
For me, who used to work in the sewing industry and wanted to pursue a career in clothes, I admired this shirt, the brand "Yamauchi", and Mr. Yamauchi's way of thinking.
Before I knew it, I was now working with Mr. Yamauchi, and I was in a position to introduce Yamauchi's clothes, but this person's clothes were real.
I've been to Mr. Yamauchi's atelier many times, and we've talked about many things.
The clothes are made too neatly and carefully, and sometimes they are too stiff, but Yamauchi's clothes are infused with the idea that people in the world should choose them.
No matter how you look at it, no matter how you look at it, there is no part of it that makes me feel uncomfortable.
That's a different story than what I like about clothes. Clothes are filled with a tremendous amount of thought, technology, and time spent facing each other.
You can really feel that from the finished clothes.
That's why, well, it's fashion, but it always makes me think about things that go beyond just "dressing up".
That is how the clothing industry should be, "upstream", "engineers", "midstream" as brands, "downstream" as retail stores, and so on.
That's because I can't feel it unless it's clothes that have a lot of conviction and craftsmanship.
As for this shirt, the design of the kasuri lattice, the appearance of the salt-shrinking process, the extremely careful stitching, and the surprising comfort and outstanding durability.
It is all created by the hands of engineers, including Mr. Yamauchi.
Wear it, use it, wash it.
Through this shirt, I think that you can feel the high level of the Yamauchi brand, the weaver, the processing factory, the sewing factory, and the people involved in Japanese clothing making.
Also, yes.
From this season, Yamauchi's clothes are all half size larger.
Well, it doesn't change that much.
It's a word I used yesterday, but if you wear this shirt, you'll be able to understand Yamauchi and the people of Kawakami who have the technology that Japan should be proud of.
The look is a matter of taste, but I think it will greatly exceed expectations. this shirt.
Please be impressed.
