"Summer shirt" Yamauchi

Arrived just now it was getting very hot. Yamauchi Wool shirt with mesh structure. Yamauchi No Mulesing Mesh Wool Shirt material_wool100% color _ sand beige size_2,3,4,5 Yamauchi No Mulesing Mesh Wool Shirt material_wool100% color_navy size_2,3,4,5 It has long sleeves, but I think you can wear it coolly in the summer as the wind blows through it. The material is no mulesing wool that Yamauchi uses. Wool that has not been treated in a way that could be considered cruelty to sheep. In terms of raw wool, 100% SUPER 120S is used. It's very fine hair. Due to its fineness, the result is a thread that does not irritate the itchy skin. And this is a shirt that uses a fabric woven with "mesh" from that thread. As you can see, the coloring is sand beige and a deep navy that looks like black at first glance. After all, the color tones that are difficult to achieve with cotton fabrics are unique to wool. If you look at it from a distance, you can't recognize that it's a mesh fabric with gaps, but if you look closely, you can see small gaps like this. This fabric was used for coats, jackets, and pants made from "yak wool" with Yamauchi at the end of November last year. It is a fabric woven by "Kuzuri Keori" who made the fabric. When it comes to mesh, the image of sportswear and outdoor wear is common, and when it comes to clothes, it is all about casual clothes. I'm crazy this. This is sand beige. A simple image is that the three threads, the warp and the weft, are tightly attached to each other, creating gaps and forming a mesh. Navy is a piece-dyed fabric, but as you can see, sand beige is "yarn-dyed". Three threads make up the warp and weft. Each thread that makes up the three threads is dyed. A single yarn that has been dyed is used as a two-ply yarn, and three of the two-ply yarns are used for the warp and weft. In other words, "Yarn-dyed single thread" it "Two-ply yarn (Two yarns are twisted into one yarn)" it "Place three sticks together" This is the mesh structure. Generally speaking, the higher the density of the fabric, the stronger it becomes. But there's no reason why Kuzuri Keori's creations and Yamauchi's clothes are weak. Especially because it is a mesh structure, it is supposed to be worn in spring, summer and autumn. This means that you will inevitably need to wash them more often than you would for winter clothes, and durability is absolutely required. That's why it's durable even if there's a gap, and it's built to withstand repeated heavy use. If you take a good look at the photo of the microscope above, you will understand that the point where the most stress is applied to this fabric is the grounding point where the warp and weft intersect. In order to make it stronger, one and two warp and weft threads are alternately arranged vertically at the crossing point. As a result, even if there is a gap, the fabric is formed by intersecting with the eyes firmly fixed at all points. this fabric. So, as you can see from the microscope photo, it's sand beige, which uses yarn-dyed yarn before it becomes yarn, so it's a very deep fabric composed of all four colors of wool yarn. I'm here. In the first place, Mr. Yamauchi was looking at past materials that Mr. Kuzuri Keori had made about 40 years ago before thinking about this shirt. That's why I was attracted to this fabric, and it seems that I was able to revive it now. That's why it's luxurious, but it also has an old-fashioned atmosphere. Well, the structure is the same as above, but the texture of the fabric is quite smooth. I think it's a touch that can be imagined by those who like this kind of thing. But it's Kuzuri Keori quality, so it's not just a smooth feeling. It's not a heavy fabric, but it's a drape that makes the fabric fall down, but there's a gap, so the wind can pass through and the fabric floats. Also, the smoothness of SUPER 120s wool is absolutely retained, and although it is strong and smooth, it is not too strong and does not feel "rough". It's common, isn't it? It's smooth. not Something rough. That's not it. It's not a very stimulating touch, so I think you'll be able to wear it comfortably. And yet, since it's 100% wool, it doesn't get sticky even when you sweat, and it dries quickly. What's more, the main component of the fiber is different from plant fibers such as cotton and linen, so it won't smell bad even if you continue to wear it while sweating. This is very important when you become an uncle. And the sewing specifications are Yamauchi. Shirts are usually made from a single piece of fabric and have a single sleeve, but there are two sleeves made from two pieces of fabric. The opening of the sword boro is a specification that uses the switching of two sleeves. This sword rag is also designed with a deeper overlap than usual, and it is designed to be closed tightly so that the inner and skin are not visible when the button is fastened. The collar is not edge-stitched, but 4mm from the edge is stitched with very fine stitches. Sand beige is all genuine "brown" butterfly shell buttons. A brown-colored butterfly shell. No back yoke. Enjoy the graceful shading of the drape, which also has no yoke. This is the back. One of the definitions of a good shirt is the sewing specifications of the shirt, but this overturns that way of thinking. In general, shirts are often referred to as "lock-down stitching" or "fold-down stitching", but these sewing specifications are not suitable for this shirt. This fabric is most useful, and it is assembled with specifications that do not adversely affect the appearance of the outside. The hem is three rolls. The sides are bag-stitched so there are no stitches on the front. By using bag stitching, the fabric is not fixed too tightly, and a rich drape can be seen from the side view. And this. overlock. In this shirt, the overlock is used for the "shoulder line where the front body and back body join", "armhole", and "two-piece sleeve joint". If this is a cotton shirt, even Yamauchi wouldn't do it like this, but with this shirt, by overlocking the above three points, the seam allowance won't be stiff. If this is folded down, or if it is designed to be firmly fixed, it will inevitably bulge out on the front, and it will not look very good. Therefore, by making suitable specifications for suitable places, a shirt that can make the most of this wool mesh material is completed. Also, this is not limited to this shirt, but is common to all of Yamauchi's clothes. is being processed by overlocking. I feel like who else would do that, but even if it looks like it fits in normally, the inside is actually sewn properly, even where you can't see it. This is something that Mr. Yamauchi doesn't say openly, but he told me when I pursued Mr. Yamauchi before. smile Mr. Yamada is the one who sews this shirt with "circular stitching". In Yamauchi, when it comes to shirts, they are usually sewn at "Fashion Izumi", a shirt factory in Saitama Prefecture, but Mr. Yamada does the circular stitching. By the way, the clothes sewn by Fashion Izumi in Saitama are tagged with "Chiyoko Mizude, the person in charge of sewing". Even though it is dyed fabric, it is a very deep navy. This is unique to wool. When it comes to cotton fabric dyeing, it is quite difficult to achieve this color. Both the sand beige and the navy have long sleeves, but when you wear them, they look completely different from cotton shirts. As for this long-sleeved shirt, for some reason I have ordered all sizes, but the order was only for one of each, so if you are interested, it would be good if you could take a look at it as soon as possible. Yamauchi No Mulesing Mesh Wool Short Sleeve Shirt material_wool100% color_navy size_2,3,4,5 This is the same no-mulesing wool mesh short-sleeve version. This is also available from the smallest size 2 to the largest size 5 available in the brand. The feeling of size may be more refreshing here. Feeling. A neck design that looks like the collar is clearly hollowed out, which is rare in Yamauchi. But, in order not to make the neck look feminine, this one is made of the same fabric and has a firm neck. Furthermore, both sides have Kobasutetchi. As a result, the round neck looks soft, but it has a firm edge, giving it a masculine look. Even one of the sewing specifications can greatly change the appearance. It's simple and soft, with short sleeves and a round neck. The parts where the corners stick out have sharp corners, and when worn, it looks like a three-dimensional piece of clothing. I think it's pretty comfortable if you wear this shirt with a tank top as an inner layer. in the summer. As an impression when worn, it may look like a very formal baseball shirt. It may be good for those who like this kind of thing. This is the back. It's the same fabric as the long-sleeve shirt, but as I said above, I think it's better if you think that this one is sewn with a "harder feel". It's because it's short-sleeved clothes, but compared to long-sleeved clothes, short-sleeved clothes inevitably give a more relaxed feeling, so I adopted a slightly tighter sewing specification to balance it out. . Well thought out. I think this short-sleeve shirt goes very well with an uncle-like look. Well, I didn't take any pictures. The fabric is the same for both the long-sleeved and short-sleeved ones, so I would be happy if you could imagine what it would be like when it gets hotter and hotter. Both can be washed at home. Also, there was a black open collar shirt that was woven with rayon and silk with cupra warp woven by "Watanabe Textile" that I introduced the other day. lined up. I will introduce it later.
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