"Yamauchi" after a long absence

The last arrival was around December, so this is the first appearance this year. "Yamauchi" I don't know how many seasons it will be after handling it, but it has arrived. Yamauchi is no longer bound by the SS season, the AW season, and so on. However, starting from this time, we plan to continue from here little by little. First, the shirt. It is a completely new form in the brand, it is an appearance in the fabric. And stripes. Yamauchi Cotton cupra striped shirt (with feather collar) material _ COTTON 45%, CUPRO 30%, LINEN 10%, RAMIE 10%, SILK 5% color_BLACK size_3,4,5 As you can see from the material, the fabric contains 5 types of fibers. It's a fabric made in Fujiyoshida City, Yamanashi Prefecture, which is the sacred place for silk and cupra. Then, the salt shrinkage process is applied at a low concentration at the fabric stage. I think it has something to do with the color balance of the stripes, but overall it's a shirt with a strong atmosphere. In the brand's collection, you can choose between one with a top collar and one with a stand-up collar, but at our store, we only carry the one with a collar. It's been about half a year since Yamauchi's clothes have been lined up in the store, and you can still feel the special quality. Once again, the Yamauchi brand does not have oversized clothes at all. However, this shirt is made with a slightly looser air than other brands. But it's not overly big at all. What's going on is Around the shoulders first. Some people, including grown-up Han people, who are genuinely interested in clothes, say that it is no longer acceptable just because the "shoulder line" between the bodice and the shoulders is falling. When viewed from the front, the "shoulder line" of this shirt is just the shoulder, but the back is designed so that the position of the shoulder is shifted in the direction of the arm. Such a thing. As a result, the back style looks more comfortable. In addition to that, by taking a large amount of shoulders in the back body, lightness of movement of the arms forward is born. In addition to this. The angle of attaching the arm is superhuman. If you place the seam between the shoulder tip (sleeve) and the armhole (bottom of the armpit) so that it does not wrinkle, the sleeve will be deformed tremendously. As a result, the stress of movement when wearing is not felt even in the slightest. The arm is easy to move, and the structure is very comfortable to wear. The position of the shoulder line in the front and back has a difference of the distance between the fingers, so I think it's visually noticeable. And since this shirt has such a shoulder design, it doesn't need a back yoke. So when you look at it from the back, I think it gives a slightly different impression than a normal shirt. As the length is longer, it has a slit. The hem is round at the front and square at the back. This is a picture from the back, but the processing of the beautiful slit. The hem of the front body and the hem of the back body are each wrapped in three, and while it acts as an intermediary for Kandome, it overlaps softly and smoothly and becomes one. The processing of the cuffs is also Yamauchi quality. Although it is a process with a firm edge, This is a photo of the back. The left and right sword rags are wrapped in different parts of the same fabric, this. Closure of the sword rags on the back. The edges of the fabric are folded inwards. It's the first time I've seen how to handle the edge of the fabric. Due to the structure, unless it is a series of specifications where the blade is opened in one piece, the edge of the fabric often protrudes, but we carefully put our hands on it to finish it. It's a place where you don't get to see it often, and it's a place where you can get away with it, so if you put it in this way, you can feel very secure about it as a piece of clothing. The "real black butterfly shell button" that shines one by one. Handmade of course. And a buttonhole that is unusually fine and has no gaps between threads. No matter how you look at it, it's unbelievably fine stitching for the sewing thread of this thread count. This is also a picture of the back side, but even around the shoulders, which are strongly rounded, the sewing machine technique was used to make the most of it. I forgot to take a picture, but this shirt was also sewn by Mizude-san and other people in Saitama Prefecture. Therefore, the name of Chiyoko Mizude is included in the sewer tag. After all, it is a very amazing and beautiful sewing level. Yamauchi. You are making good things. I'm looking forward to the future delivery. So, to the main topic. This is Yamauchi's first time using this fabric. 45% cotton, 30% cupro, 10% linen, 10% ramie, 5% silk. This kind of mix rate is very rare because you don't see it very often. In the first place, Yamauchi has only used natural fibers until now, except for hard-twisted punch fabrics. However, since the last autumn/winter collection, I have studied and started using cupro. Cupra is a fiber with a long history among chemical fibers, second only to rayon. Developed in Germany, the technology was introduced to Japan, and it is also a fiber that was nurtured in Japan. Cupra. Among chemical fibers, it is classified as a regenerated fiber, which is the closest to natural fibers. What does it mean to be close to natural fibers? The raw material is cotton. yes. cotton. Half cotton, half chemical. The other day, I wrote a little about cotton, but the fiber called cotton has a flower called cotton, and when the flower dies, the seeds inside appear. Become. After the fluff is collected, short fibers that cannot be completely collected remain. That short fiber is called "cotton linter", and it's a fiber made from it. Cupra mixes it with a chemical solvent, extracts it, and spins it. It has similar properties to rayon, but is more durable and water resistant than rayon. And this fabric has a big impact on the comfort of the cupra. This is a photograph of this fabric magnified 37.2 times. Five types of materials are used to make the most of their respective characteristics. The black part of the warp yarn is used as a blend, in which cotton, linen, and ramie are mixed at the fiber stage. The warp threads that look white are silk spun threads. silk. And all the wefts are cupra. Normally, the white warp silk is a fiber with a strong shine, but because it is used for silk spun yarn, which is characterized by a wild look, it has a lot of fluff and is very attractive to the naked eye. looks like something with Linen and ramie, which are blended with cotton, are fibers collected from the stems of plants called the bast, and have a texture unique to nature. Well, this is a cupra. This fabric has a twill weave. Therefore, the surface of the cupra, which is the weft, is slightly exposed. Therefore, it looks like a matte fabric from the front, but you can see glimmering cupra from the back. This gives the fabric a lot of depth. On the other hand, this is a photograph of the back enlarged to 37.2 times the same magnification. Compared to what you saw from the previous table, you can see that many cupra running in the horizontal direction are exposed. After weaving, this fabric undergoes manual salt-shrinking in Fujiyoshida City. Yamauchi's representative "salted linen shirt" is also salt-shrunk by hand in the same way. Salt shrinkage with decreasing concentration. As a result, although not as much as a salt-shrunk linen shirt, more depth is created in the fabric, and the linen and ramie fluff comes out. So when you touch it from the outside, the fabric looks dry, but the inside that touches your skin is wet. I'm not wet. That much, the back side is smooth and the front is dry. Well, I wrote a lot, but please think it's a super good fabric. The stripes made only of silk spun silk also look good. Also, when you look at it like this, it looks like a heavy fabric, but strangely, strangely, it's very light. Is this twill weave? you're kidding. That's what I feel. It lets the wind through, and Mr. Yamauchi uses only high-ranking natural fibers, so I think you can immediately see the obvious high quality. In the collection, there were white-based ones in different colors, but they were strong even when new, and I could imagine how they would wither and wither after wearing them and washing them. may be good for I think that the potential of each of the five types of fibers will be revealed little by little each time you wash it repeatedly, so please enjoy it. It's getting hotter and the number of washings will increase, so it's a good cycle. Also, there was a mistake that no matter how you add the percentage of the quality label on this shirt, it's only 95%. That's why I haven't purchased that many, but I'm planning to post them on the online store around the 20th (Thursday). In this situation, I think it's hard to go out too much, so if you have a hard time coming to the store, I hope you can see that too.
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