The autumn/winter season is coming to an end, but I ordered COMOLI because I thought it would be good for people to wear it, and when I was buying it, I wanted people to see what I was doing.
Well, fortunately, there are quite a few brands that carry them, so there are many that I haven't been able to introduce on this blog before the end of the season. Teru, let me introduce you to something "COMOLI".
Is it because the price is the price among the brand shirts?
It is an impression that there were more people who bothered their heads than I thought. smile
I thought that more people would bring back the things themselves, but there were a few times when they brought back their thoughts. smile
That's why today I'd like to tell you about an aspect that I can't quite talk about at the store.
Introducing two types of COMOLI shirts.
With this kind of fabric, this kind of sewing specification, and this kind of pattern, I think it would be difficult without COMOLI to bring out this nuance.
COMOLI's clothes are clothes that express Komori's inner side and brand staff's inner side. That's why you can make unusual clothes.
I also see clothes from various brands during the season, but when I go to the COMOLI exhibition, I go with a completely different mindset.
Well, if anything, it's not like looking at new clothes.
Hm? Well, it's difficult, but if I were to compare the colors in my head, I'd go with beige rather than undyed.
For example, in terms of color.
It's not pure white, I go with a slightly dull head.
Well, I don't care.
Let me introduce you.
COMOLI
Cashmere Japanese paper work shirt
material _ CASHMERE 60%, Japanese paper 40%
color_NAVY
size_1,2,3
First of all.
A shirt made of a "mixed weave" of cashmere and Japanese paper.
Japanese paper on the warp.
Cashmere yarn is used for the weft, and it is a plain weave.
In terms of shape, it has a rather unsophisticated shape. In a good way.
Looking at it as a piece of clothing, it is by no means a smart shirt, and it has a very strange shape, but considering the overall balance, it is a very well-made shirt.
It's a luxurious fabric because the material is the material, but it doesn't look like it at all.
I think COMOLI's sense of excellence is what makes it so wonderful.
The upper arm is so thick that there is excess fabric in the wider width of the body.
The wide width of the body is almost the same as it is, and it falls to the hem, and the arm also has a loose volume.
The cashmere and Japanese paper fabrics that sway uniquely thereby.
And it is COMOLI's unique sewing specifications that connect it.
"rolling stitch".
The same stitches appear evenly on both the front and back sides. Unlike lockstitching, the front side uses a single double needle stitch, while the back side is stitched in a loop.
"Rolling sewing" that can process the edge of the fabric at the same time when joining the fabrics together.
I have written many times on this blog about "rolling stitching", but to put it simply, most of the seams of jeans are sewn together using this method.
But, well, when sewing jeans, they are usually rigid, unwashed, gluey, and thick enough to be sewn easily, but that's because it's such a soft fabric.
Pretty difficult.
Well, in order to solve that, instead of wrapping it in one shot, underlaying is done, but even so, in order to create the mood of an old-fashioned work shirt, COMOLI must have a sewing specification that is indispensable. .
"rolling stitch".
table.
back side.
Some of COMOLI's clothes are often rolled and sewn, but there is no brand that uses this specification so much in its collection.
I wonder if it's the number of lineup in Japan.
Not a work brand. smile
Because I don't usually do it.
The reason is that there is a unique seam puckering, and there are not many people in Japan who can sew rolled seams.
Also, when it is completed, the seam allowance has a unique wrinkle.
Many brands don't like that, but what COMOLI is aiming for is that rustic look.
The goal is to make sure that the person who picks up this item wears it, and that over the years, it has changed so much that it feels like vintage clothing.
COMOLI clothes are made with that in mind, so at first it feels very strange.
After wearing it over and over again, over time, it's clothes that finally come together.
COMOLI clothes.
That's why this shirt also reflects that way of thinking.
This is the place.
And most importantly, the fabric.
You can feel the fluff of cashmere from the beginning.
Well, this is another Ultra weird, but this shirt has been washed, in other words, one-washed.
Normal people don't do that.
Here is a photo magnified with a microscope.
As mentioned above, the warp is Japanese paper.
You can see that this Japanese paper has two threads in parallel.
In other words, it is a single thread alignment.
And the fluff is all cashmere fiber.
As far as I can see with a microscope, the cashmere yarn is probably a single yarn. This too.
But looking at the thread, it's not a cashmere thread that is tightly twisted.
Therefore, I think that you can feel the softness when you wear it.
Mr. Komori from COMOLI said that this cashmere uses Italian yarn.
By the way, the next 22SS season will have the same series using British cashmere.
Italy in autumn and winter.
England in spring and summer.
Italian cashmere is softer and warmer.
When it comes to cashmere made in England for spring and summer, it is much more dry and dry than this.
The Italian cashmere introduced this time is superior in terms of skin feel, heat retention, and comfort, but I feel that the spring and summer British cashmere is more effective in controlling humidity.
Well, I haven't ordered spring/summer. smile
Furthermore, expand.
In addition to the high-quality cashmere made in Italy, this fabric is effectively made with Japanese paper for the warp threads.
This is a big point as to why I purchased this cashmere washi shirt.
A simple 100 cashmere shirt wouldn't have that kind of touch.
The cashmere made in England for the next spring/summer season has a humidity control effect, but this time, this washi paper has a sufficient function, so cashmere's heat retention, skin contact, air conditioning effect, and washi's durability. I thought that the hybrid type with the function of eliminating stuffiness inside the clothes was wonderful.
We believe that you can experience the power of cashmere fiber, the potential of Japanese paper, and the goodness of natural fibers better than those made in England. this.
Well, since it's one-washed, it's recommended that you wash it by hand when handling it at home, but if you wash it and use it, it will expand further and I think it will fit the wearer's body more.
This season is perfect for inner wear.
Also, well, I think it's very comfortable to use as an outerwear when you're spending time indoors.
COMOLI
wool silk work shirt
material _ WOOL 70%, SILK 30%
color_PINK
size_1,2
And next is this.
The pink checkered shirt is quite unique.
It's a combination of patterns and colors that captivated me the moment I saw it, but it's a fine line. In a good way.
A COMOLI original that is completely different from other check patterns in the world.
Armpit, back.
Bodice side and back.
As with the cashmere washi shirt mentioned earlier, the long stitches are sewn with "rolled seams".
Rolling stitches are originally used for sewing jeans and other workwear, but unlike other sewing machines, they do not require bobbins.
I think most of the people don't remember how to use a sewing machine since they learned home economics class when they were in elementary school. You can pull the thread straight from the bundle, but the bobbin thread must be rewound from the bundle onto a small bobbin and set at the feed dog of the needle.
The basic structure is the same for household sewing machines and industrial sewing machines.
For this reason, traditional workwear, which had to be mass-produced in large numbers, was a waste of work to rewind the bobbin when the bobbin thread on the sewing machine ran out.
Therefore, a chainstitch sewing machine that can perform "rolling stitches" came in handy.
In this sewing machine, the bobbin thread can be used by pulling it from the thread bundle as well as the upper thread.
In addition, as I wrote a little earlier, when joining parts together, the seam allowance is caught in each other, so it is an excellent product that saves a lot of time in processing the edge of the fabric at the same time.
That's why there were a lot of workwear that used it a lot at the time.
In particular, if it is a sewing machine with a name, the American union special winding sewing machine is the best.
Even now, I think that Union Special sewing machines are very useful in Okayama and Fukuyama denim production areas.
But, of course, those sewing machines are no longer being made, and they are very old machines.
The other day, when I went to Kaneta Orimono for a P.(P).C with AUBETT, I posted a picture of an old shuttle loom covered with a lot of cotton, and the old Union Special sewing machine is the same. In addition, even if the finished product cannot be used, even the parts are no longer being made, so broken sewing machines are stored in order to extract usable parts.
In addition to that, the winding stitches, which used to be useful as a rational production method, are now considered to be one of the difficult sewing specifications.
Normally, when you sew the fabric with a sewing machine, you should put your hands straight and feed the fabric as it is. You have to feed it to the needle of the sewing machine.
This is quite difficult, and even if you just sew straight, you can't do it with short sleeves.
In addition, it is easy to go crazy with curved armholes and areas where a lot of fabric overlaps.
So today, there is a need for a physical sewing machine, and the technique is also essential, so I feel that the number of clothes with rolled seams is decreasing year by year.
Well, maybe this COMOLI shirt is not a Union Special sewing machine.
Even so, I think that it is COMOLI's unique way of thinking that realizes the air feeling peculiar to winding stitches with such high-quality fabric.
And this fabric.
When viewed from a distance, the check looks like a blurred gradation, but it is also created by the placement of each thread.
This is also a "mixed weave" of two types of material, just like the shirt I mentioned earlier.
this.
You can see that there are threads of different colors.
Each thread is dyed in multiple colors, and arranged to create the finished shape you envisioned.
The important point is that it has a gradation rather than a monotonous checkered structure.
The warp is silk. Single thread, I think.
And as long as you look at the silk with a microscope, it's called silk spinning. I think that.
Silk has stages,
・Raw silk
・Silk thread
・Silk spinning
・Silk spun yarn
That is the main difference.
What I like most about that stage is silk spinning. It depends.
When considering the smoothness, softness, texture, durability, appearance, and balance of silk, I think this is the best balance.
It's not tight, but it's a warp that has been arranged with a certain density.
On the other hand, the weft is wool SZ two-ply yarn. Of course, it is not hard-twisted to bring out the soft nuances of clothes.
Compared with silk spun in warp, the density of wool in weft is higher.
Also, it is a fabric that has fluff, but the wool thread itself does not have much fluff.
Because the surface of the fabric is scratched, the surface is intentionally fuzzy.
However, since there is little fuzz on the back side, it feels smooth against the skin.
That's why it's a shirt with a strong sense of warmth, and it would be nice if you could think of it as a fabric that can be used even in spring rather than only in autumn and winter.
If you zoom in further, you can see neon colors in a small world.
After all, I think you can see that the surface of the thread is smoother with silk.
Also, when looking at the fibers that make up the thread, it's a wool fiber that's as thin as silk.
So you don't have to worry about skin discomfort.
Regarding the design details of the clothes, I think you can understand it if you see it, so I will omit it, but both the cashmere Japanese paper shirt and the wool silk shirt are very well made when considering the balance of the fabric, sewing specifications, and the margins of the shape. , I think it would be difficult for this to be established as clothes outside of COMOLI.
It may be good for those who like biased clothes, not just the COMOLI brand.
The brand is aiming for clothes that will still exist as used clothes 50 years from now.
It's not a superficial way of making clothes, it's because it's clothes that reflect the mindset of Mr. Komori, who has been making clothes for decades.
Well, around March, Mr. Kaneko from Bay Cruise said that Mr. Komori had been making clothes that were very unusual for a long time. It doesn't seem to change much.
That's why it's getting a lot of praise in Japan right now, but I often talk with Mr. Komori at exhibitions, but I can't help but feel that he hasn't gone to the world to "sell" at all.
I don't know about the time before Mr. Kaneko said that, but as I said earlier, I can really feel that he's still making things he likes.
Nowadays, there are a lot of brands in the world, and I often see the word "I made what I want to wear" in the brand concept, but there are many similar clothes in a row, You can see that at first sight.
It's like you can't feel beyond the clothes.
I wonder if I should say "stop clothes".
However, from the appearance of the clothes that Mr. Komori of COMOLI makes, I can feel the depth beyond that.
That's the part that reflects the personality of Mr. Komori and the COMOLI team, and the clothes that are created by that.
Well, that's why we can make clothes with less strike zones.
I think it's a good thing because you can feel the depth of clothes like that.
COMOLI, take a look.
