We introduced calmlence yesterday.
This is the third collection.
Today I will continue writing about it.
Today, here it is.
Calmness
NOTCHED SACK COAT
material_LINEN 48%,WOOL 48%,POLYESTER 4%
color _ NAVY STRIPE
size_2,3
Calmness
WORKERS GILET
material_LINEN 48%,WOOL 48%,POLYESTER 4%
color _ NAVY STRIPE
size_2,3
Calmness
SINGLE PLEATED WIDE TROUSER
material_LINEN 48%,WOOL 48%,POLYESTER 4%
color _ NAVY STRIPE
size_1,2,3
Here.
Jacket, vest, trousers.
This three-piece suit is the face of the brand and symbolizes its mood.
The fabric used for all of these items is an original created by Kumagai-san of calmlence.
It is a deep fabric that evokes the gentlemanly atmosphere of the old days.
It looks extremely close to black, but the image is of a navy and black base with a slight hint of lighter gray thrown in.
As mentioned above, the composition is 48% linen, 48% wool, and 4% polyester.
Each arrangement is
"Navy linen warp"
"Black wool (worsted) weft"
That's the basis.
Another thing that concerns me about the blend ratio is the presence of polyester.
This is a thread called "Sicklen," which was used to create stripes on old-fashioned suits.
This "Sicklen" has a light grey tone.
The warp thread is then set in the position desired by Kumagai.
However, rather than using Sicklen as the warp thread by itself, we combine it with worsted wool yarn, twisting one strand of Sicklen and one strand of worsted wool together to create a twisted heathered double yarn.
In addition, the wool used is worsted with little pilling, but considering the atmosphere that the stripes would create, the yarn itself was twisted a number of times, and the designers pursued how the stripes would look when twisted with Sicklen .
Therefore, the fabric itself is made up of three warp materials: linen, wool, and polyester.
As mentioned above, the weft thread is made of worsted wool.
And it is woven on a dobby loom.
A loom for weaving patterned fabric.
Similarly, there is a machine called a jacquard loom, but when used with this the patterns produced are closer to digital, clearer, and too fine.
So Kumagai wove the fabric using a slightly obscure but classic dobby loom.
An original fabric that exudes a very gentlemanly and classic atmosphere.
When this is combined with Kumagai's clothing designs, it is certain that something truly amazing will result.
Look again.
The stripes are easy to notice, but the ground also has a slight color contrast and fabric texture, giving it a luxurious feel without being too heavy.
I think it's a fabric with incredible depth.
Now, let me introduce each outfit.
First, this.
Notch lapel jacket.
When you see this fabric made into calmlence clothes, it already has a very good vibe to it.
Calmlence comes with a brass key fastener on the chest, making it suitable for a stand-up collar jacket style.
The stripe pattern has also been carefully placed to match the stand-up collar, with the stripes on the upper left collar connecting perfectly and the lower right collar also having a natural grain.
When worn with a tailored collar, the back lapels are similarly striped.
When worn as a stand collar, the bias stripes appear diagonally.
A brass key snap that is tightly and precisely sewn on by hand.
The front features buffalo leather buttons.
The wildness of this material gives the notch lapel jacket a strong look.
The front is fitted with four buffalo buttons with leather attached, and although the bottom buttonhole has a hole-shaped stitch, it is not intended to be used so there is no cut in it intentionally.
There are similar buttons on the cuffs.
The buttons are sewn on so that they are close together, but not so close that they overlap.
Naturally, the full cuffs make it ideal for wearing with the cuffs rolled up.
The lining of the sleeves is made of rayon cotton twill, which I introduced yesterday.
As you can see, the lining of this sleeve is sewn on by hand.
However, while the edges of the fabric at both ends of the sleeve lining are tightly fixed, other places are sewn with a loose margin.
Looking at it this way, you can see that while the edges of the lining are tightly fixed, the lining gradually bulges out.
This is the amount of extra room to prevent the sleeves from feeling tight when you move your arms.
When you wear it with the sleeves rolled up, the slight puffiness of the extra space on the inside of the sleeve creates a soft look.
The final product wash that Kumagai applies himself adds a sweet touch to the opening of the chest box pocket.
But, because the stitching is good, the boundary between the pocket and the body is clearly visible.
Calmlence creates an unparalleled level of contrast in the construction of the clothes, with soft, relaxed areas and tighter areas.
So when I look at calmlence's clothes, I always think that it's not just the design that they look like, but that the clothes themselves are incredibly cool.
There is no padding in the shoulders, but there is interlining to maintain the shape, and the armhole seam is pressed towards the sleeve, giving the garment a "high sleeve" look.
The jacket is presented in a natural setting.
Looking at the stripes on the back, you can see that the waist is gently shaped at the back.
Center vent specification.
The sleeves are made of two panels with a natural grain, which gives the arm a shape and allows the pattern to be placed within it.
Even so, the seams where the sleeves are seamed are still very visible.
back.
The lining of the body is made of original flower jacquard fabric.
In areas that are not lined, the edges of the fabric are finished with piping.
The construction of the garment is clearly visible on the back, and if you look closely you will see that even though three different types of fabric intersect, the lines where the fabrics change are strong and distinct, making it hard to believe that the garment has been washed.
The contrast with the fabric that has been washed and expanded is incredibly striking.
Calmlence has put a lot of effort into the behind-the-scenes construction as well.
If you have the opportunity to get your hands on one, try turning it over and looking at it.
And next up, this vest.
Although I mentioned at the beginning that it is a three-piece suit, it is well thought out even as a single piece, and the style when worn as a vest is also symbolic of calmlence.
This is the first thing that's different from normal.
The back of the garment is also made from the outer fabric.
Vests are usually designed to be worn inside a jacket, and the top priority for them is to ensure that they slide smoothly inside the jacket, so most vests have a lining on the back.
But calmlence is different.
And when you want to dress in the brand's style, this vest goes perfectly with a shirt and trousers.
This vest is not only designed to use the outer fabric on the back, but also to be used as an outer vest.
First, the front end.
If you look at the edge of the fabric on the front, can you see the stitching on the edge?
From the back as well.
If you look closely, you will see something called AMF stitching.
However, this stitching only goes on the front side, which is visible when the jacket is worn over the top.
If you look at the transition between the front and back body, can you see that only the front body has stitching on the edge of the fabric?
It fits up to the hem of the front body.
however,,,,
Up to the tip of the thumb on the left hand.
This part is visible when you wear a jacket over the vest.
What I mean is...
The AMF stitching extends up to the tip of the index finger on the left hand.
From that point onwards, stitching cannot be done on the front side.
Can you see how the edge of the fabric looks different at that point?
The edges of the fabric are tightly held in place where the stitching will be done.
On the other hand, in the areas where the stitching is not visible on the outside, Kumagai has washed them to give them a puffy look.
This is very important.
Armhole.
From this point, a hint of calmlence's original ivory colored flower jacquard can be seen.
this.
The edges of the fabric bulge, revealing the lining.
Usually, if it is a vest with a stiff look, this area is "lined" by reducing the amount of lining seam allowance by a few millimeters so that it is not visible from the outside.
The golden rule for dress-style vests is that they should be tucked inside a jacket.
But that's not how the Calmlence vest is designed.
The vest is designed to give off the same soft vibe that Kumagai is aiming for, even when worn on top, as with the jacket.
This vest has a gentle fullness in both the outer and lining, as the edges of the fabric are not held down with stitching and the lining is not held down either.
This also applies to the back.
By not holding back the edges of the fabric, the contours of the vest are softened.
Vests tend to be a "rigid" item when it comes to clothing, but calmlence vests are designed with the mood and style of Western clothing in mind.
Do you understand?
Only the front side of the front body is held down with outer fabric facing + AMF stitching,
The back neck is made from the outer fabric.
Elsewhere, the lining is soft and puffy.
Even in a vest, which is a seemingly simple piece of clothing, the sewing specifications are changed to a gradational style in areas that should be finished stiffly.
This perfectly complements the clothing that is an essential part of the calmlence style.
There are many different sewing specifications and construction methods for clothes, but this is the best one that makes full use of them.
After much consideration, I have decided to only offer the jackets and vests in sizes 2 and 3 at this time, but if the size is right for you, please do take a look.
And these trousers.
This is another essential piece of clothing that symbolizes the calmlence style.
No waistband, just belt loops and brass side adjusters.
Classic deep rise and generous waist tuck.
It has a buffalo leather top button and a zipper front closure.
And since this is a calmlence-level garment, the glimpse of the inside already speaks to the quality of these trousers.
The brass adjusters are attached on both sides, which allows for a considerable range of size adjustments.
It doesn't feel like it's forcibly making your waist smaller, but rather it will give you a smart, tailored fit to your desired waist, no matter how slim you are.
I think this is also due to the good balance of the waist and hip measurements.
The belt loops are not the quickly mass-produced kind, but are carefully cut, ironed, and sewn.
Double welt back pocket.
As I mentioned earlier, I believe the hip measurement is just the right amount, and there's absolutely no wasted space.
It's not super small, but it's relatively compact.
I wore a size 3 at the exhibition, and even when I tightened the adjuster, there was no strange sagging.
However, when size 3 is worn by someone whose appropriate size is, it shows off the buttocks very nicely and is well-balanced.
I think this is amazing.
I think I'll ask Kumagai-san what's going on next time.
The photo was taken from the back, and you can already see a glimpse of the outstanding flowing outline of the dress even when it is hung on a hanger.
Calmlence trousers come in two different versions with three pleats, and several customers who visit our store already own the same style in different collections.
It's not a pants brand, and our store carries a variety of brands, so that's something that doesn't happen very often, and it's the level of perfection that makes these trousers so captivating.
Size 1 looks amazing no matter how slim your waist is, and I always feel that the waist, hips, and thigh measurements are incredibly well designed.
This is something that would be incredibly difficult to do with ready-made clothing, but I can only say that Kumagai's experience and level are truly impressive.
As I've said before, we live in an age where anyone can make clothes.
However, there will definitely be a difference in the quality of the finished clothes.
However, this can be easily disguised or overshadowed when judging by images on Instagram.
However, when you actually wear it, the difference is absolute.
If you are shopping to look at clothes or simply to own them, I think that's a good way to buy clothes, but if the main premise is to "wear" them,
It can never compare to clothes made by a professional.
Among them, Kumagai from calmlence is a professional among professionals.
This is clothing.
That's what I always think.
The back is half lined.
When you fold the belt over, you'll find interlining to provide a more secure fit around the waist.
In the first season, there was only one layer of padding, but after Kumagai repeatedly wore it and continued testing, the amount of padding was increased and it was updated to have a double layer that was folded over.
Therefore, I think you will feel a great sense of reliability when wearing it.
The same goes around the back.
And this.
I wear a size 1.
These trousers have a flowing look, yet still create a crisp outline, giving them a classic and ultra-chic feel.
Trousers with an awesome shape.
If you like this type of trousers, I think these are great.
And then, three pieces.
As I mentioned earlier, the jacket and vest come in sizes 2 and 3, which are too big for me.
I'm wearing a size 2 so you can get a feel for it, but I hope you realize that it will look a billion times cooler on someone else.
I did take a photo, but the pants are size 1 and the jacket and vest are size 2, so it's a bit iffy.
Squint your eyes and just take in the atmosphere. Just the atmosphere.
However, this three-piece combination is the best.
It also broadens your style repertoire.
If the size fits you, please try it on and consider it.
And finally, this one too.
Calmness
SCARF
material _ COTTON 70%, SILK 30%
color _ NAVY PRINT
size_ONE SIZE
Calmness
SCARF
material _ COTTON 70%, SILK 30%
color _ RED PRINT
size_ONE SIZE
Calmness
SCARF
material _ COTTON 70%, SILK 30%
color _ PUPLE PRINT
size_ONE SIZE
Here.
scarf.
The pattern is the same as that of the REGULAR COLLAR SHIRT that we introduced yesterday.
However, the base material of the shirt is silk filament and cupraspan.
This scarf is made of cotton silk, so the pattern and color may vary slightly.
Also, if you are wrapping it around your neck, cotton silk will give you the volume you need.
The size is 65cm x 65cm.
When using, fold it into a triangle, roll it up into a strip, and then wrap it around your neck.
In this scorching heat, wearing a sleeveless top from OLDE HOMESTEADER with a scarf around my neck, I feel a mood of calmness is also necessary.
As we have announced, calmlence's collection 003 will start tomorrow, Saturday, August 3rd.
Our store's lineup includes the items introduced yesterday and in this blog, and will be on sale from tomorrow.
For those of you who are fans and have been waiting patiently, we apologize for the wait, but please come to our store from tomorrow with high expectations.