calmlence spring/summer clothes

Today is calmlence.

This is the brand's first collection of clothes for the spring/summer season, and all of the items sold in the first edition, which marks the beginning of the spring/summer season, are sold out.

The 2nd delivery arrived just as the 1st delivery was sold out and more and more calmlence refugees were starting to appear.

It was a while ago that I received the product, but the time has finally come for me to introduce it here.

This time is also amazing.

At this time, I would like to introduce four things to you.




material_LINEN 100%






material _ COTTON 51%,LINEN 49%






material_LINEN 84%,WOOL 11%,HEMP 5%






material_LINEN 84%,WOOL 11%,HEMP 5%



Above 4 things.

Well, just looking at this photo, it looks pretty good.

Even if I don't write about it on my blog, it's enough because the clothes are of such high quality, but if I don't write about anything, there's no point in my existence anymore, so... Let me introduce you just a little bit. lol

First, this.

100% linen black pullover shirt.

This isn't normal at all.

I think you'll see a lot of 100% linen shirts during the spring and summer seasons.

However, this may be the highest quality 100% linen in our store's history.

What do you mean.

The linen thread used is 125th thread.

First of all, this is dangerous.

It's quite boring.

Not limited to 125 count, I think you often see ``XX count'' on shirts, such as ``cotton.''

In particular, when it comes to shirts, I think that emphasis is placed on softness, good texture, and smoothness, so even without seeing the actual product, to a certain extent, it is easy for everyone to imagine that the market is selling off. It may be one of the recognition items provided.

Well, there are many things that cannot be measured with numbers.

Also, I don't think there is anything like 125 count cotton, but this time I used 100% linen instead of cotton.

This is very important. Cotton is made by collecting and processing fine fibers from the fluff of cotton plants, but linen fibers are made from the fibers of plant stems.

If you look at fluff and stems, you'd think that the fineness of the fibers at the starting point would be completely different, wouldn't you say?

So, for example, when it comes to 100% cotton, there are many excellent brands in the Japanese market, so I think you often see 100 count.

However, although the numbers may appear to be the same (strictly speaking, the conversion and notation are different for cotton and linen counts), even if the numbers are the same for cotton and linen, they are worlds apart.

As mentioned earlier, this Calmlence shirt is "number 125".

When it comes to this 125th class, I don't think there will be many opportunities to see them.


Although it has the natural unevenness characteristic of linen raw materials, the thin fibers are "tightly" packed together to create a tight fabric.

In the summer, it not only provides a comfortable breezeway, but also looks great. . .

Not just that.

This is where it gets really dangerous.

Please take a look from here.

Normally, when weaving extremely thin threads like this from 100% linen, we wind the linen with a thread called "water-soluble vinylon" that helps in weaving.

Otherwise, you won't be able to weave the fabric.

Specifically, in order to prevent the linen threads from breaking when using linen with a thread count of 80, water-soluble vinylon is wrapped around the linen for reinforcement and then woven with water. Melt vinylon.

This Calmlence shirt is number 125.

Naturally, I use water-soluble vinylon.

I thought.


I haven't used it.

This Calmlence linen fabric is made without using any water-soluble vinylon, and it is literally made little by little, carefully, and slowly so that the ultra-fine linen threads will not break. The fabric was woven with great passion by a weaver.

There is one reason for that.

We used linen thread of a level 125 count, which is a level that is rarely encountered, and made it into an ``ultra-dense'' fabric.

Mr. Kumagai says that if you use water-soluble vinylon, after the vinylon is melted, there will be "gaps" created by the melted vinylon, so it won't be as "super-dense" as the fabric you made this time.

That's why it's a ``very exquisite fabric'' that has been perfected with spirit and technical ability. Of this time.

can't believe it.

This might be a good idea to have.

We don't have much in stock at our store. lol

Since it is made of fabric like the one mentioned above, I think you can feel it directly on your skin as the very thin threads are packed together at a very tight density.

The linen is extremely thin, smooth, and still has a little bit of firmness, and it feels super dense against your skin.

This delicate touch is nothing more than ``surprising comfort.''

Obviously high quality.

In summer, the best season, we promise to bring benefits to those who bring it with them.

Well, I'm at a level where I can comfortably say that.

However, Mr. Kumagai of calmlence doesn't use that kind of fabric to make it look amazing.

This use of materials is also an element of calmlence's clothing.

Kumagai's ability to create clothes using such materials is impressive.

The back section has beautiful gathers from below the back yoke.


The back view has this fine and delicate gathers.

I think it's really super cool when old guys like us wear it.

The front has flap pockets on both chests.

Well, with Calmlence, it's a given, so I don't go out of my way to say that the stitch work is detailed.

This pocket detail has sharp edges throughout.

Also, the opening part of the front pullover has reinforced stitching with square corners.

On the other hand, the cuffs on the cuffs.

The cufflinks have rounded corners.

Pointed or angular parts and rounded parts.

I think that not all pieces are the same in one outfit, but by having them mixed together, it creates a heightened sense of expression as a single piece of clothing.

The sword bolo is a classic type.

By the way, of course, the collar and cuffs are made of plush core.

So, as you wear and wash it, it will become softer and fuller.

The use of core materials not only affects comfort, but also the appearance, so I think it's quite important.

The hem is round.

The back feels longer than the front.

I think you'll understand when you see it.

Next is this.


These trousers have a very classic look.

In other words, it looks heavy.

There are side adjusters made of brass parts on both sides of the waist, there is no waist band, and the mood of the fabric makes you feel that time has passed by.

Large one-tuck on the front.

The top button is a buffalo button with leather.

The structure inside the waist is also very neat.

Pants full of old mood that can be worn classically.

Immediately behind the scenes.

Although these are pants, linings are not included on either the front or the front.

And this place behind the waist.

When you turn this part over, the interlining will appear.

However, this passage is not ordinary either.

Actually, Calmlence's pants didn't look like this in their debut season.

According to Mr. Kumagai, this interlining material was placed "in one piece" under the Marbelt parts.

However, as a result of Mr. Kumagai's own thinking and testing, he immediately updated the product with the 2nd collection, thinking about further improving the waist fitting and stabilizing the wearability rather than the condition of the single piece.

Instead of using a single layer of interlining, the design has been changed to a more ideal fit and greater comfort for the wearer by folding back and using a double layer of interlining. Tano.

Even though Kumagai has been making clothes for over 30 years, he is always trying to improve his clothes.

Things like this can't be accomplished so easily.

I think humans tend to think in the easy and easy direction, thinking, ``Is this okay?''

I think it's truly amazing that after many years of making clothes, even now, they are able to further refine the clothes they make.

The other day, I was talking with Mr. Kumagai about the "washing standards" for calmlence's clothes.

Basically, most of the calmlence collections are washed with fabric, and after the products are completed, Mr. Kumagai himself washes them in his atelier.

I think this is well known to those who have watched and like calmlence.

However, there are some Calmlence clothes that have a "Hand wash mark" on the quality label and some that have a "Do not wash with water" mark.

When I heard the reason from Mr. Kumagai, it made a lot of sense to me.

In the first place, you all think that there is no way that clothes that have undergone fabric washing and product washing cannot be washed at home, right? I think so.

However, the reason why Calmlence determines whether or not clothes can be washed at home is because Mr. Kumagai has a clear idea of ​​how he wants the clothes to be worn.

For example, most shirts can be washed.

Jackets are basically no good. Pants depend on the item.

The reason is the "seam allowance" in the photo above.

At Chamlence, after Mr. Kumagai washes the products in the atelier, he carefully finishes the seam allowances.

When I wash it at home, the seam allowance on the back of the "split stitch" ends up standing up, as shown in the photo above.

When the seam allowance of split stitches "stands up", it affects the outline of the garment when viewed from the front.

Instead of having a crisp shape, you'll end up with an unclear outline with loose seams.

Therefore, when a jacket in particular is washed, the "back seam allowances" on the sleeves, sides, and shoulders stand out, preventing it from taking on the form appropriate for an adult gentleman.

Even if the seam allowance on the back side is uneven, you can quickly repair it by ironing it.

However, this requires an ironing board specifically designed for jackets and a bit of skill.

It is difficult to do this perfectly at home, so the fabric will not shrink or change in quality even after washing, but in order to maintain its beauty when worn, jackets should not be washed as a general rule. It's labeled as.

So, basically, send your jacket to be cleaned. I recommend wet cleaning.

However, when hiring a dry cleaner, be sure to tell them carefully so that they don't have to use a proper iron press to finish the item.

However, if your Calmlence clothes come back clean and wrinkle-free after being ironed at the dry cleaners, you can dampen them a little at home and dehydrate them a bit to create the natural wrinkles that come with being washed. lol

Mr. Kumagai says that you should wash your shirts at home before wearing them. That's what he said.

Pants depend on the product, so it's better to check the quality label.

The pants I'm introducing this time are washable.

However, after washing, if possible, use an iron rather than a steamer to flatten the split seam allowance shown in the photo.

This will clearly make a difference in the shape of the clothes when worn.

The other day, I was talking about this with Mr. Kumagai, and we ended up creating a collection. Instead, I felt that the people who owned Calmlence's clothes had thought carefully about how they would be seen by others when wearing them.

Including this, I think that all of the clothes from calmlence are clothes that Kumagai-san has put great care into until the very end .

And back to the topic, these pants.

It's amazing.

I was surprised by this.

There is a huge gap between the appearance and the texture of the fabric. lol

The appearance has a profound old mood.

No matter who or where you look, it looks like you're wearing well-tailored, high-quality pants.

However, the touch of the fabric...

"Super light".

It's so light that you can wear it and have a barbecue on the riverbed in the summer.

The fabric is such a strong ally during the hot summer months.

As stated at the beginning, the blend is 51% cotton and 49% linen.

I think the fabric was originally woven with a border and then woven horizontally to create stripes.

The warp threads are made of extremely thin linen in multiple colors for the 80 count pants.

The weft is cotton. I think the cotton is a dark brown or black color, and I use something called compact yarn, which is extremely fluffy.

The cotton weft has a darker tone than the warp linen.

Additionally, the linen and cotton yarns aren't as thin as those used in regular pants, so they look surprisingly light. Also, in addition to the thread being thin, the thread does not have any fluff, so it ``shine'' when it moves.

The look and feel of this fabric is so different that it makes me think, ``That's a lie.'' lol

Well, I can't believe the 125th linen I mentioned earlier, and I'm like, "That's a lie."

It's completely different from the clothes I've seen and known so far, and that's what I think.

Lately, I've been updating my own concept of clothing, so I think that's a really good thing.


Can you convey it somehow? ?

It's blurry, but don't worry about it. lol

The lightness and luster of the fabric is different from what it looks like.

Well, it's okay if people see the real thing and are surprised.



These two.

The fabric for both is "KASURI", which represents calmlence.

This is also amazing.

Super moody clothes.

Mr. Kumagai's techniques to express Kasuri are hidden.

This fabric.

The blend ratio is an original recipe in 1% increments of 84% linen, 11% wool, and 5% hemp.

Kasuri checks appear randomly on the tightly woven fabric.

The fabric looks very beautiful and attracts the eye.

As you can see from the blend ratio, 84% is mostly linen.

As you can see in the coloring, the light beige color is linen.

Although the linen is well-proportioned, in order to give depth to the fabric, thick and thin areas are interwoven within each piece, leaving slight unevenness.

And a black thread.

This is amazing.

The blend is 11% wool and 5% hemp.

This 16% is thread that looks black, and this is where Calmlence's ``kasuri expression technology'' is applied.

As mentioned above, the light beige color of the ground is "single linen yarn".

The remaining 16% of the black thread is wool hemp, but wool and hemp are a "mixed single thread".

In other words, the fibers are mixed together and become the same thread.

Mix wool and hemp fibers to create yarn.

After that, it is dyed black using a dye that only dyes wool.

Then, among the same threads, only the wool becomes black, while the hemp remains an uncolored natural color.

By dyeing only one side of a single thread, called "one-side dyeing," the color becomes more expressive.

Then, instead of just weaving the wool, which is black and the hemp is undyed, into the threads, they are further twisted with the linen used for the ground.

In other words, it is a combination of wool hemp (wool only is black) + linen (ground color) and made into a double thread.

Only the Kasuri checkered part of the fabric is made of "double yarn using three types of fibers."

As a result, the black dyed wool, which is thicker than the ground, is mixed with the natural color of hemp, and in addition, in harmony with the linen, it appears on the surface as a "black with ambiguity", which Mr. Kumagai designed. This is how "calmlence Kasuri fabric" is born.

I think this cannot be done unless you can see the finished shape of the dough, and you have to work backwards from there.

I think they have put a lot of thought into how to make the fabric, not only the materials, but also the threads.

Furthermore, each of the three types of materials has different characteristics and amounts used, so there is a difference in shrinkage between fabric washing and product washing, which creates an even more expressive look and elevates the mood. Yo.

As expected. calmlence.

Stand collar hunting jacket.

The brand has been offering the "completed form of calmlence" since the first season, but this is the first time our store carries it in its second collection.

The collar is designed a little higher.

I think the neck dimensions are perfect, both the margin around the neck and the height of the collar.

But, it's not just a stand-up collar at all.

As you can see in the photo above, the left and right collars have completely different shapes.

I think some people sometimes wear this type of jacket with the collar folded back, but I think it's best to leave the collar of this HUNTING JACKET standing. I.

I think it will bring out the sex appeal of an adult. That's pretty cool.

The shoulder line is slightly dropped.

Regarding the structure of the shoulders, there is no padding, but the sleeves are higher than the body, which means they have a "high sleeve" design.

Thanks to this, it doesn't become just casual wear.

As a result, I think it's a proper jacket for an adult male to wear, and it has a very appropriate look.

A switch between the front and back body that slides towards the back of the body rather than the center of the shoulder.

When viewed from the front, there is no transition line between the front and back pieces, which makes the shoulders look beautiful, and it is a sign of the old days that the clothes were designed with the front and back sections carefully considered. Yo.

That's the very little information I have on used clothing. lol

The details follow the clothes of the good old days and show the quality of the construction.

There are three curved patch pockets on the front.

The backs of both pockets are lined with a separate fabric. Consideration.

The patch pockets are so neatly sewn that even when you look at them up close, you can't tell whether they actually have pockets or not.

The curved lines of the pockets are so beautiful that there are no complaints.

Although it's called HUNTING JACKET, it doesn't really have a hunting feel to it.

Sometimes I see action pleats, belts, and excessive pockets on these kinds of jackets, and I just don't like them.

I'm not very good at things that have an outdoor feel.

For adult men, such outdoor details are unnecessary. Also, don't go for anything that has too much of a work feel.

So, there are very few stand jackets that I think are good, but for me, this season's ones are calmlence and John Alexander Skelton, which I introduced the other day.

That being said, I like elbow patches.

It's practical.

Calmlence has an almost assimilated elbow patch.

There are no openings on the cuffs.

Even when it's on a hanger, it already gives off a beautiful outline of the arm.

This is because when worn, the volume and shape of the sleeves are super cool.

Well, please try it on and see for yourself.

The buttons are buffalo buttons with leather that convey calmlence.

This button is quite expensive.

It's completely different from normal.

This is the buttonhole.

"Double beaded buttonhole".

It's not a hole made with a buttonhole sewing machine.

Is it the same feeling as the pockets on both beads? Buttonholes made with.

A buttonhole sewing machine is a completely different type of hole that takes a lot of time.

It's been a long time since I last saw this, but seeing it for the first time in a while, it looks completely different and it's great.

It's a very casual detail, but I feel that it really improves the quality of the clothing.

In addition to that, there are buttons that stick out.

It has a very secure button and root wrap, giving you a sense of security.


The back side is also really cool.

The endpapers, the pockets, the flower jacquard on the back of the body, the back of the sleeves, the power buttons, the piping... The way the back looks so cool that it doesn't look ugly.

It is made as a jacket suitable for the upcoming season, so the inside of the body is unlined.


Isn't it dangerous?

The coolness behind this is also cool.

What I think is "cool" is, of course, the use of fabrics, colors, and pattern design on the back, but also all the seams.

This is what makes the switching line "alive" after all.


The lines where the fabric on the inside and the fabric switch are ``clear'', ``symmetrical'', and ``even''.

I think this element is quite important, and there are many clothes that have a plunging lining, but when you wear them, you instantly feel negative, and I think you'll stop wearing them soon.

That's why the "back" part of a garment's structure is so important.

The sleeve lining is sewn by hand.

This gives a soft finish.

Calmlence original lining.

By the way, I didn't know this, but this lining is also used for Calmlence jackets, coats, vests, etc., but they actually use multiple types of fabric with different thicknesses depending on the outfit.

If you think it's all the same, you're wrong.

Mr. Kumagai thinks this is what this clothing should look like. It seems that they are using them properly with this in mind.

That's why this HUNTING JACKET uses an original flower jacquard that is a little thinner and has a relatively refreshing feel as we approach the hotter season.

Piping and unlined lining.

If you flip the lining over, you'll see that it's fastened by hand with thread loops.

Also, the original fabric for the lining has been overlocked to the point where it cannot be seen.

No matter where you look, it's really well taken care of.

Deep emotion.

And pants made of the same fabric as the bottom.

These are also pants that represent calmlence.

Like the previous trousers, there is no waist band, this one has 3 tucks and a high back at the back.

The buttons are made of buffalo skin and have a zipper front.

The structure of the marbelt and waist core is the same as the previous trousers.

As you can see, the back body has a cinch back, and there are double pockets on both the left and right sides, and only the left side has a flap that is smaller than the pocket opening.

What makes these pants so unique is their shape.

The front and back look completely different.

The front has 3 tucks on each side, creating a unique volume.

If you look at the photo above, you can kind of see that there seems to be some tucking in the front section.


Back body.


When you compare it to the front, you will notice that it has less volume and is very refreshing.

I've never taken these calmlence pants apart, so I don't know what kind of pattern lines they have, but when you wear them, you can feel the overwhelming difference.

The front is voluminous and the margins of the fabric sway as you move, but the back is very sharp.

You can't tell from the photo, but the high-back fit hugs your waist, creating a clean and streamlined hip line.

What's more, the amount around the thighs of the front section is concentrated all at once from below the knees to the hem, giving it a very shading outline.

For example, these pants also serve as a companion to the aforementioned HUNTING JACKET.

However, I feel that most set-up pants serve as an accessory to a jacket, but Calmlence's tops and bottoms are first-class.

It feels like a combination of power pieces and power pieces. lol

Also, as for the length, it feels like one cushion is gathered at the hem, but this is also a wonderful balance.

These pants make you feel Kumagai-san's awesomeness, and I've never seen anything similar to them before.

I can really feel the incredible originality.

Even in our second season, we already have multiple people who own these pants in different fabrics.

Mr. Kumagai's clothes are completely different.

These pants are also unlined to welcome the upcoming season.

These pants allow you to feel the comfort of the fabric.

Please take a look at calmlence's clothes with great anticipation.

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