Let me introduce AUBETT today.
First of all, there are four types of long-sleeved shirts (one of which is ladies), long-sleeved cut-and-sew, and pants.
All of them are good clothes filled with the thoughts of AUBETT.
AUBETT
DOUBLE CLOTH TYPE WRITER OVERSIZE SHIRT
material_COTTON 100%
color_IVORY
size_S,M
First of all, this shirt.
As the name suggests, it's an oversized shirt, but it really shows the balance that AUBETT is aiming for.
When you wear it, there are areas with margins, but the parts that fit fit perfectly, and the margins create a wonderful "drape".
And the fact that the front view and the side view look completely different is also a big, big feature, and that is the unexperienced zone that AUBETT aims to create.
The collar is a regular color with edge stitching, and it is simple with no placket.
All buttons are white water buffalo buttons.
The sleeves have two sleeves, and the arms are designed to swing forward, which is rare for shirts.
The sword boro has a square opening and stops, and there are two buttons along with the cufflinks.
The shoulder line where the body and arms join is designed to drop slightly.
However, even in the hanging state, it has a very three-dimensional shape.
Usually soft fabrics tend to sag when hung on a hanger, but this does not happen at all.
That should be it.
Super special fabric.
AUBETT weaver's bespoke fabric.
The weaving shop is "Kaneta Orimono" at Kakegawa Station, which is the nearest to Shizuoka Prefecture.
A certain area in Shizuoka Prefecture is a major production area of Japanese cotton textiles.
The area is commonly known as "Enshu", but Mr. Kaneta is located a little further out than in the middle of it.
In Japanese cotton fabrics, we are the No. 1 weaver in terms of weaving "strongly twisted yarn" at "high density".
And this is the fabric that AUBETT made a special order for Kaneta.
It's dangerous.
Say it clearly.
Yesterday, I introduced Yamauchi's ultra-high-density plain weave wool, and today I'm going to talk about cotton.
Experience the extreme world of high-strength, ultra-high density.
This fabric has a very fine texture and soft reflection when you see it in the picture.
The name of the fabric is TYPEWRITER, but the organization is
"twill"
You can't see it at all, and you can barely see the fabric with the naked eye, but it's a twill weave.
Ordinarily, when twill weaves are used, diagonal lines appear in the weave of the weave, either upwards to the right or upwards to the left, but this fabric does not have that.
that is,
Because it's a "latitudinal dual organization".
"Yokoniju".
That is why this fabric is named Double Cloth.
Mr. Ota of Kaneta Orimono once told me about the double weft weave, but it is a phantom weave in which only the weft threads are double woven.
I thought there was such a thing, but this is a special edition that can only be made by Kaneta Orimono.
In general, the structure of the fabric called double weave is that the warp and weft are doubled and woven, and the warp or weft also serves as a binding thread at regular intervals to connect the two fabrics. is constructed as a single sheet.
However, this fabric has an amazing structure in which only the "weft" is doubled.
Moreover, with "strongly twisted yarn".
This hard-twisted yarn is a very important keyword, but it seems that the hurdles for weaving with "hard-twisted yarn" in any organization, not just double weaving, are extremely high.
The reason is that by twisting it hard, the thread becomes twisted and twisted.
That's why even in Japan, there are only a handful of weavers who can weave using hard-twisted yarn.
Among them, Kaneta Orimono is the most specialized weaver in Japan for hard-twisted cotton, and uses that technology to create fabrics that no one else can.
Moreover, choose a partner (brand). this in a good way.
So this time it's a microscope.
This is an expanded organization of the fabric that this AUBETT made a special order for Kaneta.
I've never seen anything like this before.
In the first place, twill weave is characterized by the fact that the warp threads appear strongly on the surface, and the diagonal lines of the twill are clearly visible.
However, the purpose of this fabric is to
"Erase the twill weave".
That's why the latitudinal double.
The fabric is woven by setting the warp threads on the loom and driving the weft threads into the weft threads. and.
That's why the number of threads used is more than ordinary fabrics.
Even Kaneta-san doesn't seem to be able to do this all the time.
But why did AUBETT create this "latitudinal dual organization"?
There is a clear reason for this. In the first place, there is the Mihara organization in the organization of textiles.
・Plain weave
·twill
・Satin weave (satin weave)
Most shirts are made of plain weave fabric, but twill weave fabric is thicker than plain weave fabric, and can be made to stand on its own.
That's why AUBETT made this fabric to make the pattern of this shirt stand out.
AUBETT's clothes are very distinctive in drawing a splendid outline.
I adopted this fabric to perfectly direct it and make it happen.
However, if the twill weave fabric is simply stiff, it will be too straight, and the diagonal lines of the twill weave will be too excessive.
That's why I left the functional benefits of the twill weave and erased only the appearance.
This "latitudinal double" structure makes the fabric look as flat and clear as possible.
Look.
Dangerous. Moreover, since it is ultra-high density, there are no gaps between the threads.
This is what a normal 100 cotton twill shirt looks like at the same magnification.
The number of intersecting stitches of the warp and weft is also completely different, and you can see that there is a gap.
Expand further.
It's a secret how many times it is, but even though it's cotton, there's very little fluffing even when you zoom in, and despite the fact that it's a very dangerous structure that you can't tell the reason for, the strong twisted yarn is very well-balanced. Beautiful look.
A typical cotton twill shirt with fluff and uneven threads.
By the way, the level of this cotton twill shirt is 20,000 yen or less, and it's a shirt fabric class of 10,000 yen.
Well, what effect does this fabric have on AUBETT shirts?
A petite physique with a height of 167 cm and an S size.
If you look at the photo above, you can see that the bodice rises with the wrinkles from the shoulders and falls flat, and the arms also have diagonal wrinkles.
These two wrinkles are the "drapes" that AUBETT seeks.
Wrinkles from this sodeyama.
and
Wrinkles that enter the body from the shoulder.
These two drapes create a sharp look when viewed from the front.
When viewed from the side, it has a unique amount of appearance.
It is impossible to create a big difference between the front and side views without a self-supporting fabric.
It has a clear impression, and although you might not think so at first glance, it is a fabric with a very strong personality.
and,
AUBETT (women)
DOUBLE CLOTH TYPE WRITER STAND COLLAR SHIRT
material_COTTON 100%
color_IVORY
size_F
this.
The brand's first women's model that uses the same fabric as the previous shirt.
A neat stand collar for women on the upper right.
Fly placket.
The length is long and it's not particularly oversized, but the three-dimensional shape makes it look smart when viewed from the front.
Please recommend it to your wives and girlfriends who read this blog.
Because she's so cute
AUBETT
OPEN-END JERSEY L/S
material _ COTTON 100% (GIZA 87)
color_WHITE
size_S,M,L
AUBETT
OPEN-END JERSEY L/S
material _ COTTON 100% (GIZA 87)
color_NAVY
size_S,M,L
A jersey made from GIZA 87, the 87th variety of GIZA COTTON, which is everyone's favorite extra long cotton.
And this is a bespoke jersey knitted by "air-spun" by Mr. Ono, who is related to Ms. Sugihara of AUBETT.
Regarding air spinning, this blog is going to be too long, and I have written about it on the AUBETT T-shirt blog before, so if you are interested, go back.
There are three main types of spinning,
・Ring spinning
・Air spinning
・MVS Spinning
There is
Among them, ring spinning is by far the mainstream.
However, this air spun fabric has a richer texture and is comfortable against the skin without being too flat.
As for MVS, I think that everyone will be able to see good things in the most suitable spring and summer, so please wait for a long time.
The surface of the fabric looks so neat and compact that you wouldn't expect it to be air-spun (open-end yarn).
This is navy.
It looks almost black.
This long-sleeved cut-and-sew is not just a long T-shirt.
I'm wearing a size S.
I think it has two big creases on the arms and body as well, though not as much as the shirt from earlier.
The shoulder line is designed to fall, which is rare for cut-and-sews, and the rounded shoulders are designed to be very strong.
If you raise your arm, you will be able to see the features of this cut and sew very well.
yes.
It tapers towards the hem.
There is a margin from the chest up, but the bottom from the chest is shaved off.
As a result, the hem of the body does not float, and the fit of the pants is very good.
And now look at the sleeves. sleeve. arm.
The armholes are large and the side view has a unique amount of volume, but it tapers off towards the cuffs.
I can't see the cuffs.
This cut-and-sew is a cut-and-sew, but Mr. Sugihara of AUBETT said that the pattern was not designed with the logic of making a cut-and-sew, but with the point of making pullover clothes.
That's how I feel. this.
So, because the fabric happens to be cotton sheeting, it can be worn as a long T-shirt, but the theory of making it is different, so even if you wear it normally, it won't be normal.
In addition, the raw materials are of high quality, the thread is not average, and the stitches are tightly packed, making it very durable and reliable.
Perfect for those who don't wear shirts everyday.
lastly,
AUBETT
BACK-SATIN GABARDINE WIDE 2TUCK PANTS
material _ WOOL 73%, COTTON 27%
color_BROWN BLACK
size_S,M,L
Pants with 2 tucks on the front.
There is no waist belt, and the body is folded as it is as a tuck.
The inner thigh has a triangular gusset.
The hem is single and has trouser specifications.
And this fabric is AUBETT's original double weave fabric woven by Yamaei Keori in Aichi Prefecture.
Unlike the double weft of the previous shirt, this one has double weave for both warp and weft.
Fabric designed to expose twill wool gabardine on the front and satin cotton on the back.
Although it is a double weave, the two fabrics are original fabrics with different materials and structures.
A photo of the back of the hem.
The upper half is cotton with a satin weave.
The lower half is a tight wool with a twill weave.
For this wool, I use a worsted and tightly combed.
In both satin weave and twill weave, the warp yarns fly over the weft yarns and float.
And the touch when it hits the skin is also different.
The satin weave is softer on the skin, and it feels like cotton with a little swelling, so it feels soft on your feet.
At first, it gives the impression that the wool interferes a little, but the more you use it, the more potential it seems that you will become familiar with it.
Also, the amount of thread used is quite large, so it is quite heavy and I think it will be quite reliable in the cold season.
It's a classic-looking fabric, but it goes very well with these pants.
I'm petite, 30, and wearing a size S.
It's the same with the color that is woven with brown and black coloring, but it seems that the motif of these pants is an old Italian trouser.
As a result, the glamorousness has not disappeared, but it has an old feeling.
But with the addition of the AUBETT essence, the result is a pair of pants you've never seen before.
That is the coexistence of the three-dimensional effect of different genres on the front and sides.
this.
The sides are very curvy and the volume is felt compared to the front.
I think this is a part of AUBETT's peculiar duality, just like a shirt.
An outline that curves downward along the roundness of the lower body.
In modern times, there are many pants with a straight and straight leg, but it has a great three-dimensional shape.
Even though it's away from your skin, you can literally "feel it on your skin" without looking in the mirror.
This is it. Three-dimensional curve of the hips.
I think that European pants have the durability that can be handed down from generation to generation and the mood that has already passed since it was new.
If you're interested in trying it on, I think you'll understand.
It's hard to say out loud that you're welcome to come, but when you enter the store, we ask you to take your temperature and disinfect your fingers, and we also have a circulator so that the air can circulate, so you can come. We are open to remove the anxiety elements of the person.
I think that the clothes I introduced today are a lineup where you can fully feel what AUBETT is aiming for.
Please take a look if you are able to come.
