This spring/summer season, the shirt I've been waiting for has arrived.
AUBETT.
And it is "Kaneta Orimono" who weaves the fabric.
In November, as a P.(P).C, I made 3 types of rust-colored clothes with AUBETT and Kaneta at CASANOVA&CO. .
According to Mr. Ota of Kaneta, it is the "ultimate density plain weave" fabric.
This is dangerous. It's a ridiculously bad fabric.
And the fabric is ultra-hyper matching with "3D cutting" created by Mr. Sugihara of AUBETT.
At our shop, on January 2nd of this year, we made a white shirt with The CLASIK and 330-count four-fold-twisted fabric from Italy, DJA.
A fabric that can match that level.
When I think about it, I can only think of Kaneta-san's fabrics.
In Japan, I think it's Kaneta-san.
That amazing fabric.
this. As mentioned above, the fabric is a plain weave.
The material is 100% cotton.
But it's not just cotton.
There are three types of cotton that I consider to be the strongest grades in the world.
・GIZA 45
・Subin Supreme
・Sea Island Cotton
And the raw material this time is Sea Island Cotton.
Its brilliance, smoothness and durability.
This is a masterpiece.
However, this is the raw material, but the important thing is from here.
"No. 35" of Sea Island Cotton.
Normally, the fiber length is long and the raw materials are thin fibers, so in order to take advantage of the characteristics, the theory is to spin 80 counts, 100 counts, or even finer threads.
However, in order to create the clothes that AUBETT is aiming for this time, Mr. Kaneta asked a thread shop to use a thread with a count of 35, which is a thick thread that is not normally distributed today.
Then, using it as a material, we completed the "ultimate density plain weave".
I didn't know this either, but Mr. Ota from Kaneta Orimono told me about it through Mr. Sugihara from AUBETT.
There are three important keywords to decipher this fabric.
First, as mentioned above,
・Thick thread of 35 count sea island cotton.
The second is,
・The word "cover factor".
The third is
・The "density ratio" of warp and weft.
"Cover factor".
This is often interpreted as density in general.
However, in fact, it seems to be a numerical value that indicates "how much space is filled".
Usually, the word "density" is simply the number of threads per inch, and there seems to be a clear difference.
Mr. Ota of Kaneta Orimono gave me an example to make the "cover factor" easier to understand.
In the case of people, if there are 10 very thin people in one room and 10 very big people like sumo wrestlers.
The same density of 10 people per room.
However, according to the concept of "cover factor", it can be said that the cover factor is higher when there are 10 large people like a sumo wrestler.
I hope everyone can understand this.
First, by comparing this cover factor value with the experience that Kaneta Orimono has cultivated so far, it seems that they will calculate the firmness, hardness, softness, and limit density of the fabric to some extent.
Next, the "density ratio" of warp and weft.
Mr. Ota is aiming to pursue the delicate appearance of plain weave fabrics to the limit, to the level where the "shape of the thread" cannot be seen.
On top of that, among various factors, if we increase the low density ratio of the warp and weft as much as possible, when it is woven into a plain weave fabric, the "delicate eyes" that Mr. Ota is aiming for. It looks like it's going to be a fabric that looks like it.
To give an easy-to-understand analogy, for example, when there are 100 warp threads and 50 weft threads, the density ratio is 2 in the warp and 1 in the weft, and the density of the weft is lower.
In this case, increasing the density of the weft thread makes the fabric more delicate.
Considering this, if the above figures are 100 warps and 100 wefts, the grain of the plain weave fabric will come closer to what Mr. Ota is aiming for.
However, the higher the "cover factor" and the closer the "density ratio" of warp and weft to 1:1, the more difficult it is to weave the fabric.
The fabric of AUBETT this time is
Using "thick sea island cotton" as raw material,
Assuming a "marginal cover factor",
In order to bring the vertical/horizontal ratio as close as possible to 1:1,
"Ultimate density plain weave" fabric with wefts driven to the limit.
This is an ultra-shocking, ultra-hyper-quality silomono.
Read the above sentence carefully and look at this fabric.
this delicacy.
The image of a thick count is completely changed.
The dazzling brilliance of Sea Island cotton and the delicate eyes of the fabric.
Even though it is a thick count of 35th, it is completely unbelievable that it is "the texture of the fabric that is too delicate and beautiful".
Furthermore, Mr. Sugihara of AUBETT assumed that this fabric would be completed, and he was also a maniac with threads.
The thread that was originally spun at count 35 was called compact thread, and it was a beautiful thread with almost no fluff.
However, Mr. Sugihara is not satisfied with just that.
"Gas-baked" is a compact yarn that already has little fluff.
By doing so, the surface of the 35-count yarn, which had almost no fluff, was finished to the ultimate fluff-free yarn.
Kaneta challenges it to the limit.
The hurdles are very high, and a fabric that can only be completed by Kaneta Orimono in Japan and the world is born into this world.
And look at this. microscope.
The 35th Sea Island cotton (single yarn) is crowded in the gitchin gitchin.
But the eyes of the thread are super, super, super beautiful.
There is no fuzz, and the grain of the fabric is balanced to an infinitely high level.
This is really bad.
Furthermore, expand.
The raw materials are of such high quality that the fibers can no longer hide their brilliance.
So, after all, the density is not sharp. I can watch it for the rest of my life.
I might get angry if I compare, but I really wanted to do this.
This season, we are proud of our "two white shirts" microscope.
The latest work of Italian DJA's best series, "GOLDEN JUBILEE".
Using GIZA 45 as raw material, 170-count warp two-ply yarn and 330-count weft yarn four-fold twisted twill. and,
Of this time.
Same magnification.
We are the only clothing store in the world that can put two of these together.
I believe that smile
And with a microscope. smile
Guys, you should take a screenshot of this.
Because the top of the top in this world may never be seen again. smile
I think Kaneta is the only one who can compete with DAVID & JOHN ANDERSON's GOLDEN JUBILEE, which is said to be the best in the world.
King's DJA exists, but Kaneta-san is doing more and more creative things. I think that kind of thing can move people's hearts and move them.
This fabric moved my heart tremendously.
This is dangerous if you see the actual thing.
Surely everyone will be impressed.
that kind of fabric.
And this is the shirt that AUBETT created using it.
There are two types.
One for men, one for women.
AUBETT
CLEAR HEAVY BROAD OVERSHIRT
material _ SEAISLAND COTTON 100%
color _ MILK WHITE
size_3,4,5
AUBETT (WOMENS)
CLEAR HEAVY BROAD STAND COLLAR SHIRT
material _ SEAISLAND COTTON 100%
color _ MILK WHITE
size_1
These two.
Han is a regular color.
Women's is a type of stand-up collar.
yes. It's already so beautiful.
The regular color is the left placket.
The women's stand collar has a right placket with a winged wing.
The AUBETT original fabric woven by Kaneta can make the most of AUBETT's Sugihara's "three-dimensional cutting" technology.
The strongest combination.
Even though it's just hung on a hanger, from the side view, the triangular shape of the arm has already been completed.
Lay flat.
AUBETT's clothes have a wonderful "three-dimensional" look.
This is the technique that Mr. Sugihara has cultivated, but I think it is impossible to experience this in ready-made clothes in Japan except for AUBETT.
If you lay it flat, its scales will ooze out.
The width of the body seems to be taken in proportion, but it is not a loose size at all.
This amount of width "disappears" when worn.
Then, the sleeves "grow" from the inside of the body.
Regardless of age or fashion, this can be worn over time.
It leads to that.
This is because, although it is ready-made clothes, it will always be close to the owner's body and show a beautiful style.
Mr. Sugihara of AUBETT creates clothes that can be worn beautifully, enveloping the owner in three dimensions regardless of the times and trends.
No matter what kind of clothes you buy, you will wear them frequently for a while.
However, if you wear it to some extent, or if the season or taste changes, I think there are many things that you will not wear so much.
However, with AUBETT clothes, even if you don't wear them for 3, 5, or 10 years, you can find them at random times and try them on in front of the mirror.
Then it suits me.
It's an easy word, but it makes me look cool.
Such clothes make me want to wear them again, and I wear them again and again.
AUBETT clothes are clothes that you can keep wearing.
For that purpose, "stereoscopic cutting".
Kaneta, on the other hand, is making fabrics that will last 100 years.
Therefore, when AUBETT and Kaneta-san are combined, it becomes clothes that can be spent together for a long time in the truest sense.
I think
This is a power that no clothes can have, and I think there is a reason to have it.
And yet, the ultra-impressive quality of this fabric.
I think this shirt does just that.
Let me tell you a little bit about the details.
There is no stitching on the collar.
The placket is also a back placket specification.
The base collar has very well-proportioned stitches.
The buttons are hand-made from white pearl oysters.
It's pretty solid and sturdy.
Processing of the hem of the bodice.
This is not a tri-fold specification, but a narrow facing specification.
back.
Beautiful looking fabric.
Sewing is also very high level.
Fold down seams are applied throughout.
This is the back of the back placket.
The fusible interlining is not attached to the back of the placket.
Since the fabric is the fabric, there is no core, and the fabric is complete.
Fold down seam on the back.
The seams stand out a lot because the density of the fabric is amazing.
The sleeves are two-piece sleeve specifications.
When laid flat, the arm looks wide, but when viewed from the front, it looks like a very sleek arm.
Sugihara is also aiming for this.
However, when viewed from the side, it looks like a three-dimensional and powerful arm.
And, as I mentioned earlier, when you wear it, the sleeves "grow" from the body. All the parts look like "unified shirt" instead of "parts".
This is common to all AUBETT clothes.
And this fabric is just too beautiful.
"Delicate brilliance" that can be felt anywhere, whether in natural light or indoors.
Unusually fine texture, yet the strongest and best touch to the skin.
Please surprise everyone with this. I wore it as soon as it arrived.
Well, it arrived recently, so I couldn't wait to put it on and wash it right away.
That's it.
A washing machine would have been fine, but I wanted to see how the fabric got wet in the water first.
Because you can feel the potential of the fabric in water, which is different from when it is dry.
So I wash my hands. just one more time.
I'm still wearing it, so I'll wash it when I get home today.
In the water, I could visibly feel what Kaneta called "ultimate density."
When it gets wet, the thread absorbs moisture and swells, so water cannot pass through.
Water ran over the fabric. smile.
Furthermore, Sea Island cotton, which was gas-fired with compact yarn as raw material, shone in the water.
When washed, the whole thing swells and as you can see, fine wrinkles run through it.
And the texture became noticeably softer.
I think you may like or dislike the wrinkles, but I think the quality of the ingredients stands out better with wrinkles from washing and bleaching.
I think anyone who sees it will instantly know that it is a high-quality fabric.
The world that only this shirt has is spreading far beyond the level of 100% cotton shirts.
But still from now on.
After using it from here, and after repeated washings, the true power of Kaneta's fabric will be demonstrated.
After all, by washing, the potential of the raw material itself will be revealed.
When that happens, you can feel overwhelming quality by combining it with this density.
Please look forward to it.
Like this, it looks good to make it crumpled.
You can't do this with any shirt, but with a shirt of this level, it's allowed.
Even in brand new condition, the shirt is of excellent quality, but if you have it in your hand, please keep a long-term relationship with it.
Using thick yarn, Kaneta can now create an incredible "cover factor" and "vertical/horizontal ratio", and "3D cutting" realized by AUBETT.
That is the combination of this shirt.
Even at our store, we don't think this class of shirt is something we can handle frequently, so if you like it, please take a look.