The first time I told AUBETT about this was about a year and a half ago.
Since then, we've been thinking about and talking about a lot more, and the time has come to show it to everyone.
I would like to touch on things that I have hesitated to refrain from on this blog so far, and write my own theory about how shallow the current "clothing culture" is, which I have always felt, and the state of the clothing industry. , By posting this blog called //subjunction, I wanted to break through the barriers, both for myself and for the clothing market.
Through this special project, we will explore the downstream role of a "retailer," the midstream role of a "brand manufacturer," and the "upstream" field of proper "technology" and "passion."
I hope that this will be an opportunity for everyone to think about it.
And, as I have written many times before, the fabrics for the three types of clothes I made this time can only be woven by Kaneta Orimono, even if you look around the world.
Both the fabric and the clothes are made from scratch with AUBETT in a way that maximizes both.
As a buyer, I see quite a few brands' collections each year, but I've never seen clothes like this one before.
To be honest, I wanted to create something that doesn't have similarities, but it's not like a process of elimination. I made clothes with a heart.
Therefore, it is also a color called RED RUST.
If you just want to sell, you have options like gray, navy, and black, but this time it wasn't like that.
For those who will pick it up, I think it will be the first experience for everyone.
The feel, the comfort, the look.
It's up to you whether you like it or not, so I can't do anything about it, but I think I've created "original clothes with personality" that will surely surprise you.
Also, this time, I would like you to see various things at the store, so Mr. Sugihara from AUBETT made the actual toile, the yarn beaker sample that went through the process of making the fabric, and the Kaneta fabric. I'm thinking of making the piece-dyed version of the fabric that Mr.
Please take a look at the process of making "clothes" with solid technology at the store.
Today, let me explain a little more about the three types of clothes.
Private (Public) Collection
AUBETT JACKET
material _ COTTON 46%, WOOL 38%, MOHAIR 16%
color_RED RUST
size _ 3,4,5 ※Sold out
It would be nice if you could see yesterday's explanation of the details of the clothes.
This is 167 cm tall, weighs 52 kg, is short and wears a size 3.
I touched on it a little yesterday, but the sleeve length is set slightly longer, giving the body a space that would be impossible with a cut-away front.
This is because I assumed that even people with a small physique like me would wear size 3, roll up the sleeves, and wear it with margins.
However, I think that even people in the latter half of 170cm can wear this size. How to choose is up to each person, but if you think about wearing just the right size, I don't think this is a problem for people in the latter half of 170cm.
I think I'll post it later, but I wash and wear this AUBETT JACKET and FOURTEEN DARTS TAPERED TROUSERS together, so if you like washing, I don't think it's the above.
For those who expect to "wear loosely" by washing, I think it will be a reasonable size selection.
However, "wearing loosely" doesn't work with any jacket, and since this is an AUBETT JACKET, I also recommend this method.
In other words, the ZZ strong-twisted twill triple weave fabric, which Mr. Sugihara of AUBETT also talked about, is a fabric that is quite bulging and pointy.
That's why it's a cut-away front jacket, not oversized, but "inflated" where you're aiming.
And the ZZ strong-twisted twill triple weave gives the body a three-dimensional effect, as if the "hair core" is put in the front body and "stabbed".
When I think about that, I think it's OK to "wear it loosely" because it's a well-made jacket.
That's what I was thinking about, so if I followed the original theory of the minimum size, I designed it so that it would look a little bigger at first glance.
When you wear it, you'll notice that it's a cut-away front with a slightly longer length.
I have this style.
Mr. Sugihara, the designer himself, has a foundation in European clothing making, so the essence of the shape itself has a lot of Western origins, but perhaps because of the characteristics of this fabric, it has a unique oriental atmosphere when worn with top and bottom. I also feel
The front is 4 water buffalo ita reactive dyed buttons, but if you want to fasten the buttons, I recommend only fastening the 2 in the middle.
It's hard to tell when it's brand new, but if you keep wearing it, the soft turn of the tailored collar and the amazing curve of the cut-away front will come out.
I talked a little bit about it yesterday, but when viewed from the side, the width of the sleeves near the shoulders looks wide.
And vertical wrinkles on the body and sleeves.
This is the place where AUBETT's Sugihara's clothing creation is generously poured.
I will touch on it in tomorrow's blog.
I shot it in natural light, but the fabric always changes color depending on whether it's in the sun, in the shade, indoors, whether it's straight or wrinkled.
The warp yarn is ZZ two-ply hard-twisted cotton, the weft yarn is wool and mohair plain twist single yarn, plus triple weave. However, because it is a fabric that humankind has not yet experienced, the color changes tremendously.
This is also a surprise.
Whether it moves or stops, I think that the beautiful expression of the fabric and the form of the clothes come out from any angle.
and,
Private (Public) Collection
FOURTEEN DARTS TAPERED TROUSERS
material _ COTTON 46%, WOOL 38%, MOHAIR 16%
color_RED RUST
size _ 3,4,5 ※Sold out
A trouser made up of a total of 14 darts.
There are 8 darts in the waist, and when they are opened by wading, a space is created around the thighs as shown in the photo.
It is also a pair of pants that can be tightly squeezed by the long darts on the hem.
In the photo, I am 167cm tall, weigh 52kg and wear size 3.
Size 3 is made with a waist size of 70cm, as I touched on yesterday, so I think it's a perfect opportunity for those who are petite and have a narrow waist.
The fabric is also thick, and the seams on both the inside and outside are made to stand out slightly by overlapping the fabric.
Thanks to the benefits of darts, I think the strong tapered effect is working within a reasonable range.
And since the darts that extend to the calf have edge stitching, we were able to create a design icon that also has functionality.
Not only can you adjust the volume with the darts, but you can also use the AUBETT pattern to pull out your buttocks.
I will touch on this tomorrow.
I wear a size 3 in the photo and myself, but this is a size 4 in the photo.
In the past, I've worn two AUBETT pants one size up, so this time I went down a size, but with size 4, you can experience the AUBETT pants even more. increase.
Of course, the volume around the thighs is slightly increased, but even so, when viewed from the front, the tapered outline is beautifully visible.
This is the side view.
When viewed from the side, it changes from the sloping front line to a trouser with overwhelming roundness and unique volume.
This outline is unique to AUBETT trousers, and I had never seen this way of making trousers before I met AUBETT. I decided to handle AUBETT.
It is a trouser that the root of the brand is reflected wonderfully.
However, size 3 fits perfectly for me, but when I wear pants with a large waist, the excess fabric sometimes feels bulky.
You don't have to worry about AUBETT pants at all.
Put the belt through first.
Then fold between the two darts.
In this way, fold the outer side of the two darts toward the center of the pants.
And fasten it with a belt.
The resilience of the fabric this time is strong at first, so at first it will swell a little even when folded, but only at the beginning.
If you get used to it and wear it, it will fit properly.
Such a thing.
Try this method of wearing.
A spectacular view that can only be found at AUBETT is waiting for you there.
And this.
AUBETT JACKET and FOURTEEN DARTS TAPERED TROUSERS that I wear myself.
As I said earlier, both are size 3.
As for the AUBETT JACKET, I've actually been wearing it for about a month.
And I'm washing
One hand wash and one machine wash just in case.
I was worried about shrinkage in the horizontal direction because the weft is wool mohair, but the horizontal shrinkage is a little smaller numerically because there is a large amount of it, but it is barely noticeable.
If anything, there was a little shrinkage in the vertical direction.
But this is what I was aiming for.
From the kibata stage where the fabric is still woven, we had them undergo two processes, preshrunk and flexible, assuming that the customer would wash it.
That's why it didn't shrink like a crack, and it shrunk just as I had envisioned it to some extent.
By washing, the warp yarns, which were strongly twisted two-ply, were untwisted, causing a slight shrinkage, but more than that, the fabric had more depth.
Of course, even after washing, I wear it without ironing, but after washing, the wool and mohair wefts bloom and swell.
The warp cotton has a rather matte texture, but the weft is mohair.
The light of the weft threads emerges from the depths of the dull warp threads.
this. Exactly, "red rust".
I wanted to make this.
It's partly because I got the AUBETT JACKET first, but for the past month I've only worn the AUBETT JACKET, so the day I took this photo, the day before that, the day before that, and the time before that, FOURTEEN DARTS. I wore only TAPERED TROUSERS.
I also wash it.
This is a one-time hand wash only.
Since it is worn as a set-up, the number and conditions of washing should be the same for both the top and bottom, and I would like to recommend it to our customers, but this time I didn't have time to wash it. smile
It took about 15 minutes in total, including one wash with warm water, three rinses, and three minutes of dehydration.
I don't really feel the shrinkage of the waist, and the length is about the ankle, so I think it's a better fit for me.
In the photo, it's completely above the ankle.
The redness is strong because the sun hits it, but the wrinkles from washing and bleaching are also engraved, and it seems that the fabric has clearly shown its strength.
There is no doubt that it will shrink, so just in case, I put a notation not to wash it, but for those who like the texture and vector of this kind of fabric, washing it is OK as an option.
lastly,
Private (Public) Collection
INVERTED PLEATS OVER COAT
material _ COTTON 46%, WOOL 38%, MOHAIR 16%
color_RED RUST
size _ 3,4,5 ※Sold out
here.
I wear a size 3.
I think that the length and volume of the dress is the privilege of the coat.
And the inverted pleats that open wide from the hem to near the collar, which are equipped with this coat.
This item also uses draping, and wrinkles on the body and arms similar to AUBETT JACKET.
The coat is half-lined, so I think you can fully experience the fluctuation of the fabric that comes from the amount.
"Drapes" that AUBETT thinks of as "drapes" unique to coats.
INVERTED PLEATS OVER COAT where you can feel both.
Kandome is included at the end of the pleats.
I think you can feel the shadows and depth of this fabric in the photo.
Although the color is RED RUST, I think that it has a high concentration because it is swung to a classical shape, and above all, I think that you can really experience this fabric because there is a considerable amount of original fabric used.
Rather than midwinter, depending on the innerwear, it is a coat that can be worn during the spring, autumn and winter.
And the size dimensions of all three types are listed below, so please refer to them.
<Size 3 (after washing once)>
Shoulder Width: 46cm (45.5cm)
Width: 58cm (57.5cm)
Length: 78cm (75.5cm)
Sleeve length: 63cm (60.5cm)
Bottom width: 56cm (55.5cm)
<Size 4>
Shoulder width: 48cm
Width: 61cm
Length: 79.5cm
Sleeve length: 64cm
Hem width: 59cm
<Size 5>
Shoulder width: 50cm
Width: 64cm
Length: 81cm
Sleeve length: 65cm
Hem width: 62cm
<Size 3 (after washing once)>
Waist: 70cm (70cm)
Rise: 33cm (32.5cm)
Inseam: 68.5cm (65.5cm)
Watari Width: 34.5cm (34cm)
Bottom width: 18cm (18cm)
Total length: 97cm (93cm)
<Size 4>
Waist: 83cm
Rise: 33.5cm
Inseam: 72cm
Watari width: 36.5cm
Hem width: 19cm
Total length: 99cm
<Size 5>
Waist: 89cm
Rise: 34cm
Inseam: 73.5cm
Watari width: 38cm
Hem width: 20cm
Total length: 100.5cm
<Size 3>
Shoulder width: 50cm
Width: 64cm
Length: 108cm
Sleeve length: 63cm
Hem width: 80.5cm
<Size 4>
Shoulder width: 52cm
Width: 67cm
Length: 110cm
Sleeve length: 64cm
Hem width: 82.5cm
<Size 5>
Shoulder width: 54cm
Width: 70cm
Length: 112cm
Sleeve length: 65cm
Hem width: 84.5cm
Please refer to the above.
Continue. . .