Graphpaper event held from the other day.
It will be held until Saturday and Sunday this weekend, so please take a look.
Also, the bespoke plain weave wool shirt jacket has run out of stock, and we have finally sold out all the items that are currently in the store, so please take a look at that as well.
Today, Araki Yuu, who has introduced items for this autumn/winter season several times on her blog, will be the final chapter this time.
This fall and winter season is complete.
This time as well, it is made with the crackle Araki Yuu quality.
4B Jerkin Jacket, NEW TYPE jacket, and pajama pants.
If I write everything, it will take longer than usual and there is a high possibility that no one will see it, so today I am wearing a 4B jerkin jacket.
Yuu Araki
4B jerkin jacket
color _ DARK CURLY HAIR
face material _ WOOL 87%, NYLON 13%
lining material_COTTON 100%
sleeve lining material _CUPRO 100%
button _ BLACK BRASS
size_0,1,2
*Sizes 1 and 2 are sold out.
4B jerkin jacket.
This jacket is a must in our store.
It's not a big sizing, but it's very three-dimensional, and if the size matches, the fit is outstanding.
The parts that make up the clothes are made with a lot of curved lines.
Slightly outward cutaway front with stand collar, tightly curved box pocket on chest and patch pockets on waist.
It looks like it's aged, and the jacket is properly worn, but it doesn't have a stiff mood, and it's perfect for adult Han.
Stand collar that opens softly.
The waist has a sharp shape due to the switching of the body, and the arms are curved with two sleeves.
The length of the front body is slightly longer.
The seam line of the front body and the back body that flows from the side neck to the back.
The cuffs are split stitched to create a flat shoulder.
The shoulders and sleeves don't look like coveralls with a high bodice and a casual impression, but they also don't look like a dress with high shoulders.
I think that flat shoulders and sleeves are the best balance for this kind of thing.
I think it's a part that you don't pay much attention to, but the impression is completely different depending on how it is here.
This is an important point.
The stitches are not exposed at the seams of the parts that make up the clothes, such as the body and arm seams, but the edges of the fabric, such as the edges of the body, the hem, and patch pockets, are exposed.
This is a jacket that is designed with the right stitches in mind.
If the sewing thread sticks out all over the place, it will end up sticking to the coveralls.
I think this is a very important part of clothing.
I think the 4B jerkin jacket is one of the faces of the brand.
This jacket has been made by Araki Yuu since the early days of the brand, and we continue to carry it because we want our customers to see it, and I think the precision has improved dramatically.
It's not just about the look, it's also about how comfortable it is to wear.
This is amazing.
This is because the attitude of Araki Yuu towards making clothes is directly reflected in the product, so if you look at the finished product, you can clearly see what he is thinking and at what level he is facing the making of clothes.
By looking at every detail, you can feel that this is the quality of Araki Yuu's clothes.
That's why I always write here because I want to introduce it.
Well, I think you can judge the appearance of the design somewhat from the photos, and as for the fitting, if you try it on, you will be surprised at how comfortable it is, so that's enough, but this 4B jerkin jacket, I'm here. What I want you to see is the back.
Cotton fabric dyed lining on the back of the body.
The sleeves are lined with a cupra lining that has good sleeves.
Araki Yuu's technique is packed there.
First of all.
Body back.
The lining has the property that it touches the body more directly than the outer material, so the theory is to give it more room to move around than the outer material.
Therefore, when you look at the lined outerwear you have, you will find that there is a margin on the lining.
But sometimes I see things that are just rough.
However, this bodice back of Araki Yuu.
A straight line runs through the center.
This is how it goes.
The lining is folded in and hand-made.
When stationary, the lining fits neatly without stress, and the lining tucks open according to the movement to follow the movement of the upper body.
It is evenly spaced.
It's a newer detail for the brand, but it's designed to fit in when you're stationary and create great comfort around your back when you're in motion.
This enters from the top to the center vent.
Even more surprising is that I often wear the 4B jerkin jacket, and the more I wear it, the more comfortable it becomes compared to when it was brand new.
We often hear people say that clothes “fit into your body”, but I think that these days, only a few people have such clothes.
But this has the power to let everyone experience the good old “clothes become one with the body”.
In particular, this 4B jerkin jacket is clothes that fit the body, so it may be even more so.
I think there is value in choosing clothes that can be used in that way.
All of Araki Yuu's clothes have a serial number indicating what clothes the designer made for the brand.
but,
You can tell when you see it, but what I want to convey is not the serial number.
this.
Nankin Tamabuchi.
It's a pocket with double bead specifications, but the attention is on both ends of the bead.
It is one of the Western clothing techniques of craftsmanship that has disappeared now, but it is processed by folding the piping-like fabric edge of the welt inside.
There are almost no brands in the world that have such invisible parts applied to each garment by the designer himself.
This part has nothing to do with coordination, and it is not directly related to comfort, but you can instantly recognize how carefully it is made.
Nowadays, the details of beading are also automated, and it seems that there are literally mechanical sewing machines that can be made with just one button.
In such an era, Araki Yuu was making a beaded pocket that was not up to this level until two years ago, but this specification was realized while working to improve the technology.
Such Nanjing Beads are arranged one by one on the left and right chest.
I always leave the fabric for the lining of the sleeves up to you, but this time they arranged this 100% cupra lining.
Frame tailoring with neat corners and hand buttonholes that do not use a buttonhole sewing machine.
Also, although you can barely see it, the tematsuri to hold the lining on the sleeves is still there.
The back is also a center hook vent.
Frame tailoring and Tematsuri.
The front is also a hand hole.
I feel very safe.
And the lining is provided not only on the back of the body but also on the back of the pocket.
Lining peeking slightly from the side of the pocket.
This is what it looks like inside.
The edges of the fabric are not visible from the inside of the pocket by properly stitching the outer material and the lining together.
It's common, isn't it?
The edge of the fabric is exposed inside the pocket, and while wearing and using the pocket, the edge of the fabric is unraveled and the thread is scattered inside the pocket.
This is a very thoughtful specification that you don't have to worry about.
By the way, both ends of the pocket opening, which is prone to load, are also reinforced by hand.
so,
This fabric this time.
It's dangerous.
This 4B jerkin jacket had a clear theme for me.
In order to realize that, we asked for production with this fabric.
<Theme>
“Very light and very warm, like being wrapped in a blanket”
Clear.
This is a very soft and puffy fabric made from looped bouclé threads of wool.
Around the same time last year, I had a brown alpaca herringbone jerkin jacket made for me and sold it in stores.
It's so light and warm.
If you're down, you get that benefit, but it's good that you're not.
That's why I asked them to make it before, but I wanted three people to experience it this year.
yes.
It's only available in sizes 0, 1, and 2, but this fabric is amazing.
Wear it and be surprised.
Momentai even if you raise the hurdle.
The mix ratio of the fabric is 87% wool and 13% nylon.
The swelling of the boucle, which contains as little air as possible to keep warm.
But that's not all.
This 4B jerkin jacket doesn't even have a sample and is only available at our store, but there was one thing I was really looking forward to.
that is,
“What will it look like when finished?”
The reason is that this is not the side that the brand originally uses.
yes.
It is an order using the back of the fabric.
Originally, the surface is a gray base, and the wool loops appear on the whole, giving it a warm look.
I thought it would be fine, but I wanted another shot.
Then I turned the fabric inside out. Unexpectedly. at the time of the exhibition.
Then, it came down.
Hormones were sprayed all at once in my brain, electricity ran through my body, and my eyes shone brightly.
came.
“Bright”
"This is it".
The front is a well-proportioned looped fabric.
However, the back has a very random, uneven, uneven black base color and a mysterious luster.
and depth.
Order and decide on the spot.
That's why I was really looking forward to seeing what it would look like when it was completed as a single piece of clothing.
The finished product is super dangerous.
Scored 500 million points out of 100.
It has a tight black tone, but it also looks like it has the essence of old Chanel tweed.
In addition, many wool loops that should have been on the outside are sandwiched between the lining and trap a tremendous amount of air inside.
No ~ I think I had a nice flash.
The fancy mood that tends to occur negatively with such loop fabrics is completely eliminated by Araki Yuu, and I think it's a unique balance.
Warmer than anything else.
It looks like a completely different fabric depending on where you look, so it has a deep expression.
I would be happy if the three people who like this kind of thing wear a lot.
I will introduce the jacket and pajama pants later.