I've been waiting for the one that most symbolizes amachi. in this collection.
The "special piece" from amachi.'s 10th collection is finally here.
Collection 010 is a collection for this spring/summer season.
As always, Tenchi Yoshimoto of amachi. approaches "nature," which he has experienced and considered since his childhood, through clothes.
The items featured in this collection,
"Invisible environment"
invisible = invisible
environment = environment
yes.
"Invisible environment"
This is the theme of the collection.
In this world, what you see isn't everything.
Above clouds, in the sea, or under concrete, you can't see it in your daily life.
And in the current collection of amachi.
There are many things in the soil that greatly affect the human world.
Water veins in the soil and roots of plants.
complex systems they have.
An "invisible environment" that exists beyond a single stream of water, even if people on the ground cannot see it.
This collection 010 focuses on that circulation.
In the words of Tenchi Yoshimoto, the designer of amachi.
<Water, soil, plant roots that exist in the soil
Their close relationship influences the environment more than the natural objects we see on the ground.
When you become aware of the fact that vegetation and climate shape things, the way you perceive the landscape you normally see will change completely.
<This is a useful perspective for regenerating specific vegetation and improving the forest environment.>
At the same time, I believe that it will also serve as an opportunity to gain a physical understanding of the complex and gradual systems of nature.
<The process of deepening our understanding of this "invisible environment" from a scientific perspective is
The understanding of nature experienced in childhood in Northern California
For example, the transition between dry and wet seasons
Fishing for rainbow trout every day in the spring, the big river I used to swim in gradually dries up towards the summer.
The green meadow was synonymous with remembering the landscape changing to golden.>
<Such a feeling to the use of colors and materials, to detail work
I tried to expand the mood of the more abstract collection and the spatiality that spreads from the clothes>
And the "special piece" that most symbolizes the collection is this time.
amachi.
Suigen Pants
material_LINEN 100%
color_NATURAL
size_5
this.
"Suigen Pants".
As the name "water source" suggests, rain falls on the earth and circulates in the soil of the forest, rich greenery, clean water, mountain products, marine products, and benefits to humans.
"Circulation".
source of all life.
"Suigen"
And, as will be described later, the “water source” of this time is exactly the “source” that designer Tenchi Yoshimoto experienced in his childhood.
Use it as clothes.
A collection special piece with only 5 pieces at maximum production, defined as "Limited 5 Pieces".
Suigen Pants is a combination of shorts and full-length pants.
Both fabrics are linen.
Both are amachi. originals.
Hand-processed stitchwork by the designer is the origin of the brand.
First, let me talk about the details.
First here.
Natural color linen on top.
This is a warp with two very thick linen threads arranged side by side.
In other words, align.
On the other hand, the weft is a single linen yarn that is thicker than the warp.
A fairly thick herringbone woven from it.
The presence of the warp threads is quite strong due to the alignment, and the fabric has a solid strength like a sandbag.
I think that you can feel the resilience and unreasonable strength.
There is no waist belt on the waist because the presence of the fabric is too strong.
The same linen herringbone is placed on the belt loop.
The power of the fabric is amazing, so folding this fabric is also a skill.
Front top button.
I think it's normal to place a water buffalo horn button here, but amachi. has a thick shell button. It's the back side.
This button seems to be made with a pearly surface and a reverse side, and it looks like something that could not be made on purpose.
What kind of appearance the buttons will look like, and how they look so close to nature, is a perfect match for amachi.'s clothes.
The front is a fastener.
It comes with a long-nosed goblin, and the amachi. button is still alive on the back.
Plain weave white linen stretches from under the power linen.
This is also an amachi. original.
In contrast to the thick herringbone fabric that uses the thick linen thread mentioned above, this is a thin linen plain weave.
As the threads that make up the fabric become thinner, the linen-specific thread unevenness appears here and there.
You don't see many fabrics like this anymore.
A long time ago, when real Irish linen still existed, and when vintage linen fabrics were very popular, it was a nuance of fabric that you sometimes see, but now it's a genre of fabric that you don't see noticeably.
It's a fabric that looks great in the sun during the scorching heat of summer or when the sun is strong.
However, it is difficult to make this kind of fabric unless the specifications of the raw materials are high.
That's why amachi.'s original fabrics.
In the unwashed state, the linen is the type that is crispy, but it changes drastically when washed.
It shrinks a lot, and linen, which was stiff when unwashed, suddenly reveals the fiber characteristics of high-quality raw materials when water is passed through it.
The fabric is already washed before the product is completed, so there is no need to worry about shrinkage anymore, but it is a type that can be expected to make further progress by washing.
I think it's a rare genre these days, but when you wear it and wash it, linen fabric becomes extremely soft and you can directly feel the transformation against your skin.
Both the herringbone fabric and the plain weave linen have a fold-back stitch at the hem, but no side seams.
Herringbone shorts have overlock split stitching on both the inseam and outseam.
If it's anything else, it's going to be pretty messed up.
The edge of the hem fabric is piped.
Because of the thickness of the fabric, the piping is folded instead of folded in three.
I'm doing it right
Well, with a big game like this, there is a lot of weight placed on making it look strong, so there are some that are worried about the durability and back processing being completely useless, but amachi. is very neatly made.
Plain weave linen parts, tri-fold hem.
Here, inside seams and outside seams are sewn together.
I think the fact that the stitches on the side seams of the pants are not exposed is a pretty big key.
If the side seams were exposed, the appearance and the mood of the pants would change completely.
As I will explain later, the seams of the pants themselves are removed as much as possible because Yoshimoto-san's own hand process has taken a lot of care.
There is such a theory of making clothes, and the clothes of amachi.
That's why no one else can create the same thing. absolutely.
This is exactly the original.
Many people try to imitate this kind of thing, but I can't do this.
Impossible.
Because it's a balance that only Tenchi Yoshimoto of amachi. can create.
Well, I wrote it myself, but it's a story in another dimension beyond the combination of details.
By the way, this linen fabric is aiming for a slightly transparent nuance.
It's not see-through, but can you see the contours of your feet? It will look like this.
The wind blows through and I think it feels pretty cool.
backstyle.
The back is also very distinctive.
In the amachi. collection, there is a piece called Elevation Pants that shows elevation using "contour lines".
The specifications that followed it.
The hips are switched in a triangular shape.
In industry terms, the CB (center back) does not have belt loops, but there is a space between the top of the triangle and the waist body that functions as a belt loop.
It also has a back pocket.
Well, I probably wouldn't do it, but if I were to disassemble these pants, I think I would be able to see a pattern of peculiar shapes that I don't normally see in pants. smile
And this.
back side.
These pants are made of plain weave thin linen fabric all over.
Therefore, it feels very comfortable when you wear it.
The back side also has almost no stitches.
Enjoying the texture of linen with your lower body.
Yoshimoto-san of amachi. has hand-processed it himself, so it will be numbered.
It is the number that continues from the brand start.
1208
The processing on the back of the placket is also a structure that I have never seen before.
Because the placket has disappeared into the linen.
Pants with lining for spring and summer. smile
It's not too hot to wear.
No, it's hot no matter what you wear in the middle of summer.
It's hot even if you don't wear it.
The back waist area is also finely crafted.
It is a specification like Marvel, and the placket is also lined.
There is an edge stitch on the upper part of the waist, but it is a specification that is sewn inside with the white linen fabric.
And stitch work by this designer's hand process.
Tenchi Yoshimoto is a young and globally talented designer who was born in Elk Valley, California, USA.
The land is a land that we Japanese cannot imagine.
As mentioned at the beginning, there are dry and rainy seasons, and there is no electricity, gas, or water supply, which is commonplace in Japan.
"Water source" = the source of all life
However, I experienced it in my childhood.
And in the process of creating this special piece, "Suigen Pants", it seems that he went back to his own birth.
This "Suigen Pants" refers to a certain "water source".
California, where he was born.
The mountains where they lived at the time had no infrastructure like Japan, so they had to start by finding a "water source" and building their own water sampling system to secure water.
During the rainy season, it rains continuously.
It gives water to the mountains.
However, when the dry season begins, even the rich rivers dry up in a blink of an eye.
However, it seems that the "water source" that does not dry up even in the dry season was a very sacred and important place for Mr. Yoshimoto and others at that time.
This "Suigen Pants" tells the experience of the designer at that time.
Undyed linen that expresses a dry landscape that has dried up in the dry season.
A line of water that creates the only freshness in the landscape.
"water source"
Moss is the only plant that grows when water springs up from dry land.
A scene where clear water flows and lively moss grows there.
The strong texture of the radio-colored thick linen of the main body of the fabric is the dry earth.
Following the herringbone structure, water springs out from the cracks in the dry land.
And the surrounding moss along with the water (Kokemusu).
The water, moss, and stitchwork are applied in different ways, and each figure is beautifully expressed.
It looks like water running down a dry land.
Pants with overwhelming power no matter who sees it.
The most symbolic of the collection is the stitchwork that Mr. Yoshimoto of amachi.
approach to express it.
As Mr. Yoshimoto himself said, things that have included the brand's handwork to this extent have been something that has continued, but it can be said that it is a return to the origin.
I believe that these pants will take you to the special world of amachi. just by wearing them because of their power.
I didn't take a picture of me wearing it, but the shape is a little voluminous.
The length is just about no cushion or about short. It depends on the person.
The price is expensive, but you can wear these pants anyway, and don't be afraid to wash them when you sweat in the summer.
The linen is loose, and the stitch threads sticking out are tangled, making it even more loose, and maybe I can finally stand on the starting line.
In terms of clothing, tops will become lighter and lighter, so this will complete the style.
If you like it, please take a look.
