From the new year, I think "divine denim"

I wonder if there are many people who have been on the year-end and new year holidays.

Thank you everyone for your hard work over the past year.

Our store will be open until 16:00 on New Year's Eve, December 31st (Sun).

The store will be closed on New Year's Day, January 1st, and will open from 11 a.m. on Tuesday, January 2nd.

Business hours during the year-end and New Year holidays are posted on Instagram, so please check there.

Thank you to everyone who was involved this year and in 2023, to everyone who came to our store, to everyone who shopped, and to everyone who made us think that it doesn't have to be that way.

We hope to continue working on what we need to do in 2024 and share our clothes with you.

This blog is long, but I would like to thank everyone who took the time to read it.

Over the past year, I've been looking back and wondering how many blogs I've written, and I've written a total of 92 blogs.

I don't know if it's a lot or not, but I would like to thank everyone who has taken the time to read this.

And today is my 93rd blog of the year.

I think this will be my last blog of the year, //subjunction.

I always feel that wearing and learning about clothes and things that are really well made can have a very positive effect on my life. I believe this from the bottom of my heart, so today, for the 93rd time, I would like to introduce clothes on this blog.

This item will be on sale in stores from 11am on Tuesday, January 2, 2024.

I started my career in clothing at a jeans shop in Amemura, Osaka.

Next up is a denim sewing factory in Kojima, Okayama.

And CASANOVA&CO.

Personally, my favorite type of clothing is jeans.

So, as much as I love it, I may not be able to handle it as much as I want.

However, I am proud that I know more about denim than the sales staff at any select shop in Japan.

I have prepared what I think is the best of all the things I have seen and encountered in my life.

At the moment, this is definitely the best denim series for me.

I would like to introduce it to everyone.

COTTLE.

COTTLE has an atelier in Kojima, Okayama Prefecture.

As I have written about in the past on my blog, Mr. Watanabe of COTTLE had experience working as a denim OEM at the "head office" of the sewing factory where I worked.

Although our working periods did not overlap, Watanabe-san was a legendary figure within the OEM, and my seniors told me about him over and over again.

I first met Mr. Watanabe in person a few years after starting COTTLE, when I visited his atelier as a buyer for CASANOVA&CO.

And while we were talking, I learned that the Mr. Watanabe I had heard about in the past was "Mr. Watanabe of COTTLE."

Our store has held order events for "Senkoh Suiu" and "LEAF VEIN" for a limited time, but this is the first time. denim.

COTTLE is an absolute piece of clothing created by a person who has developed and produced a huge number of denim products for many brands through OEM.

It is filled with COTTLE's original "thoughts and quality" that have no analogues.

When it comes to denim, most of the items distributed in Japan are mainly Levi's XX, and how faithfully they are reproduced.

How sophisticated is it when compared to the original material? Emphasis is placed on that.

I think that's enough already.

For now, that's enough.

On the other hand, in cases where this is not the case, I feel that there are many cases where unnecessary things are done and a degraded version that is no longer a rare play is created. I.

Under such circumstances, COTTLE's brand philosophy is based on "folk crafts" manufacturing, and "Kojima", a denim production center around the world.

"Mingei" of Kurashiki City. The idea of ​​handicrafts and the center of denim production called "Kojima".

Because of this, we have perfected the ``denim products'' that COTTLE should make.

If there is something called "Kojima denim" that is proud and appreciated around the world,

This is true quality.

I think this is definitely something worth picking up.

This is a denim series that really touched my heart.

By the time I introduced it today, I had been wearing it for about half a year since June of this year.

It was already under heavy use.

That's why I've been wearing jeans when introducing other clothes on this blog, but these are all the jeans I've worn.

Even after wearing it for half a year, I still feel its charm more and more.

That's why I wanted to share with you all what I feel.

First, the denim fabric.

this.

Right twill denim with an original recipe developed by COTTLE over time.

The blend is 91% cotton and 9% linen.

The warp is made of 100% organic cotton.

The weft has a nap that was created by researching the blend of cotton and linen.

Personally, I thought that 100% cotton was the best denim. until now.

However, when I encountered COTTLE denim, that idea completely changed.

This denim fabric is the No.1.

That's what I thought of "COTTLE DENIM".

First, it refers to the indigo-colored "warp" threads.

The other day, we started selling clothing made from cotton fibers called Suvin Gold Supreme, which is classified as ``super long staple'' cotton, which has the longest fibers and is of high quality.

However, such fibers are not necessarily suitable for use in any type of clothing.

In short, denim is made from fibers that are considered unacceptable.

The best choice for clothes depends on what kind of clothing you want to make.

Therefore, super long cotton denim is not suitable.

Rather than extra-long cotton, COTTLE has chosen organic cotton from Turkey.

By using it, it is possible to create the ideal volume and color changes for denim fabric.

By spinning the fiber in the most appropriate way, we aim to create a fiber that is strong enough to be used continuously as a "tool for daily life" and also has the "vertical fall" characteristic of denim, where the color of the warp threads changes. What you have.

On the other hand, the weft.

This is very, very characteristic.

The recipe is an original recipe that gives the texture of hand-spun and hand-woven products, and is also designed to beautify over time as the color fades.

From his experience in developing denim for numerous brands, Watanabe says, ``I knew that linen was the type of material that would fade and create a beautiful texture.''

However, I find that the linen-containing denim that I sometimes see is too hard, stiff, and sometimes even scratchy, and on the other hand, when I try to alleviate that feeling, it becomes flimsy and unsatisfactory. But I think there are a lot of them.

Furthermore, using too much linen in denim fabric has disadvantages such as decreased strength, large skew, shrinkage, and frequent production defects.

In pursuit of the "texture destination" of denim for the "age-beautifying" goal of COTTLE, as well as maintaining comfort and strength when worn, we researched and prototyped a blend ratio that can avoid the above disadvantages as much as possible. It seems that they have arrived at a combination called ``.

Furthermore, there are three major sorting processes for denim...

・Shirt processing

・Sanforized processing (preshrunk processing)

・Skew processing

These three.

First of all, "fluffing" is a process that suppresses the excessive fluffing of the fabric.

Normally, it is applied only to the surface, but it is also applied to the back of the fabric, which touches the skin.

This is the first time I've heard of burning the hair on the back as well.

This is when we think about the idea of ​​mingei, which COTTLE places emphasis on, as a "tool for daily life."

If something truly can be used as a tool for daily life, it must be comfortable to wear.

If you have to put up with wearing clothes, you won't naturally want to wear them.

That's the idea.

If you have to put up with wearing something, or if you feel uncomfortable, it cannot become a "tool."

Therefore, in order to achieve a product that feels smooth against bare skin and does not cause discomfort when worn, the hair-burning process was performed on both the front and back sides while checking the texture over and over again. is.

I was really surprised at how comfortable this denim felt against my skin.

The moment you put it on, the first touch on your skin is completely different.

I don't know of any other denim other than COTTLE that is so comfortable against the skin.

In addition, a chemical-free sanforized process is applied to prevent shrinkage.

It also has a skew finish that prevents it from shifting when worn or washed.

"Handcrafted texture and beauty as it ages"

"Strength and silhouette retention as clothes"

The denim fabric was created with this goal in mind.

So, look again.

this. Even though it's new, I can already feel its beauty.

And, as mentioned earlier, it feels good on the skin for everyday use.

oh yeah.

Also, something important.

The coloring of COTTLE's denim is not something you often see.

I think it's quite distinctive.

Normally, all denim comes in shades that are modeled after Levi's indigo dyeing.

Therefore, when it comes to denim, I think there is a strong sense of theory, and people think of ``that indigo,'' and without any doubt, they think that the color should be something like this.

But COTTLE's is different.

COTTLE makes clothes in Kojima. And this time it's denim.

Kojima has transitioned from producing uniforms to becoming a denim town.

At that time, BIG JOHN was the first jeans made in Japan in the 1960s.

Paying homage to the early domestic denim colors made by BIG JOHN, the coloring is a deep blue with a slight purple tinge.

Nowadays, indigo denim has a very unique color that cannot be found in any other denim.

Make it a COTTLE denim shade.

Furthermore,

Furthermore,

"Selvedge" is the edge of denim fabric.

I'll post photos of the selvedge later, so you can take a look.

"Red-dyed" selvedge.

Red dyeing is a method that has been used in Japan since ancient times.

"It is extracted from the soil and ultimately returns to the soil."

Red iron is a red iron steel whose main component is iron oxide.

It is said to be the world's oldest inorganic pigment, and in Japan it has been used to strengthen and prevent rot in ceramics, lacquerware, roof tiles, exterior walls, and wood.

In Okayama, Red Gara was produced and produced during the Meiji, Taisho, and Showa periods, and you can still see the cityscape decorated with Red Gara.

The red color of Red Gara has long been thought of as a talisman and a color of rebirth.

Red red iron is already in an oxidized state, so it is resistant to deterioration even when exposed to air for a long period of time, and is extremely durable.

It seems that some wall paintings from the Stone Age and around the 7th century still have a red tint, and this is apparently due to the use of red iron.

Turn it into COTTLE DENIM selvedge.

In Kurashiki City, Okayama Prefecture, which is known as the "town of folk crafts," there is a facility called the "Kurashiki Dyeing and Hand-Weaving Research Institute."

Kichinosuke Tonomura, known as the "father of folk crafts," opened his home to the public in 1952 and established it as the Craft Research Institute attached to the Kurashiki Folk Crafts Museum.

This is a school for training craftsmen who produce ``healthy and beautiful fabrics'', where students live in a boarding house for a year, work hard at manufacturing, and learn about the richness and wisdom of life through thread, cloth dyeing, and weaving.

When Watanabe visited the Kurashiki Honzome Hand-Weaving Research Institute, it was said that ``hand-woven tapestries'' made of thread dyed with indigo and red iron were on display.

It has a striped pattern of dark indigo and light indigo, with ears of Red Garla on both ends, and a rhythmically carved pattern of indigo inside.

At the Kurashiki Dyeing and Hand-Weaving Research Institute, this tapestry is said to be the first fabric that is weaved upon entering the laboratory, and has been passed down with great care for over half a century.

The nuances of the finished product are said to vary slightly depending on who makes it, but Mr. Watanabe of COTTLE said that he thought what he saw at first glance was beautiful.

There is irregularity within the regularity, a pattern that symbolically expresses nature, and a harmony of indigo and red red.

This is said to be connected to the selvedge he was thinking about when developing COTTLE's denim.

During the sale from January 2nd, we will display the actual tapestry that Mr. Watanabe saw.

For those who visit our store, please experience the beauty of the tapestry and the reason for the selvedge of COTTLE denim.

Including the above, from the choice of raw materials, the shape and count of the thread, the color of indigo, the density of weaving, and the realization of selvedge.

COTTLE is an original fabric that took three years of prototype research until we were able to create something that we were satisfied with.

As a bridge between the history of handicrafts (folk arts) and industrial products (textile industry).

Such as 11.3oz CTL DENIM.

First of all, I would like to introduce a jacket made with denim.

COTTLE

CTL NEO TYPE 2nd DENIM JACKET

color _ WASHED INDIGO (one wash)

material _ COTTON 91%,LINEN 9%

size _ 0(XS),1(S),2(M),3(L-XL)

this. Denim Jacket.

Although this denim jacket is made based on authentic elements, it is deeply infused with COTTLE's philosophy.

First of all, I think they put a lot of thought into ``beautiful as clothes''.

It has patch pockets with flaps under both breasts, and although it has that "second" look, from a clothing construction perspective, I think it's simply made to imitate an "old-fashioned denim jacket." you know.

First, the collar.

Due to its structure, a denim jacket is not suitable for being worn with the first button fastened.

Originally.

As you can see in the photo of the COTTLE denim jacket above, even when it's on a hanger, if you fasten it all the way to the first button, the end of the collar will bounce off.

This means that when you actually wear it, the collar bounces even faster if it's a normal item.

However, COTTLE's denim jacket is designed to fit the collar perfectly, both on a hanger and when worn.

Here's the reason.

At the back of the neck, there is a ``moon waist'' that acts as a base collar.

A regular denim jacket does not have this "moon waist".

Therefore, the structure has a single straight collar, and the collar is sewn directly to the front and back body, and the collar is turned back, so when the first button is fastened, the collar ends up in an awkward shape. Put it away.

However, with COTTLE, the collar has a two-layer structure, and not only the waist but also the shape of the collar itself has a unique curved design, so the collar, which is the face of the clothes, looks beautiful no matter how you wear it. That's what I'm thinking.

This is to create a modern cool look, even if you wear a denim jacket and tie it up like the greats of the past did.

Mr. Watanabe says that he spent a lot of time on the design and structure of the collar.

Even if you wear it with the collar up, the structure makes it look great.

This is because the clothing is so sharp and precisely made that it's hard to believe that it's a type of clothing that would normally be classified as a casual item.

Even in the sewing areas, the points are sharp, the straight lines are straight, and the areas that should be curved are curved smoothly.

When it comes to denim clothes, the stitching is the color scheme of the fabric, so the seams really stand out.

If it's distorted, it's immediately noticeable; on the other hand, if it's accurate, it's very noticeable.

However, even such difficult stitching points are the highlight of COTTLE, which is sewn in the atelier.

Flap patch pockets attached under both chests unique to 2nd type denim jackets.

Sewing the pocket body with double stitches using a two-needle sewing machine.

If you look at the patch pocket itself, there are three triangular stitches inside the double stitch.

This is an old-fashioned technique that eliminates the difference between the inner circumference and outer circumference of the sewing machine, which uses classic sewing specifications to sew two areas evenly, and to sew neatly.

I'm following that.

The back of the flap pocket is also equipped with the brand's original 8oz light denim.

The front has action pleats unique to denim jackets and a band at the hem.

In this case as well, the sewing thread is not all the same thread, but two colors of sewing thread.

There is a tuck at the hem of the body.

And, although it is similar to a patch pocket, the hem obi has a different "ground grain" and direction of the body and the fabric, and by suppressing the stitching of the body with that obi, it has already been possible to prevent the fabric from becoming ridged. I can feel a glimpse of it.

The same goes for the left hem.

It gives me a strong sense of the possibility of naturally occurring ridged bites in the future.

Contrast between the fabric, sewing areas, colored sewing threads, and buttons.

It's a specification unique to denim clothes, but it feels as if everything stands out more three-dimensionally than other clothes.

It's not just speedy sewing, it's a completeness that gives you a great sense of the careful process.

back.

Most of the stitching on the back side, such as the back yoke, armholes, and rolled stitching on the two sleeves, is unified with brownish-orange stitching.

The sewing thread used in COTTLE is called "UJ Core".

There are other types of core thread, but Mr. Watanabe of COTTLE, who has produced a lot of denim, uses this "UJ Core" as a sewing thread.

When we thought about the durability of denim clothes that can withstand years of use, the fact that the color changes dramatically between when new and after aging, and the brand's ideal appearance, we decided on COTTLE. I think this is the most suitable sewing thread for sewing denim .

"UJ Core" is a sewing thread with a "duplicate structure" that uses polyester as its core, which is strong and has minimal chance of thread breakage, and wrapped with 100% Supima cotton.

There are other types of core yarn, but compared to common and inexpensive core yarns, it has a higher proportion of cotton, making it perfect for COTTLE's idea of ​​``beautifying with age.''

What's more, the thread itself is strong, so it has the sturdiness necessary to construct clothes that can be used as "tools for daily life."

Furthermore, the sewing thread follows the color change of new denim as it is used.

This UJ core also changes color naturally along with the denim fabric.

The "brown orange" sewing thread in the photo above is now bright orange.

The "golden brown" sewing thread, which looks yellowish, changes to a pinkish beige.

In COTTLE's characteristic deep indigo state, the color of the sewing thread is also clearly dark.

As the denim turns a bright, clear blue, the stitching threads also take on a bright contrast.

Although the color of the denim itself changes, there are some items where only the sewing thread remains the same as when it was new, but this is unnatural.

Enjoy the contrast between the sewing thread and the denim.

A "beautiful tool" is one that undergoes natural changes as you continue to use it.

That's why it's "beautiful".

I'm thinking about all of that.

The COTTLE philosophy is applied to all of our clothes.

The hem of the body has a "Red Gara Selvage" adjustment tab.

Equipped with a pocket on the side of the body.

Vintage denim jackets don't have waist pockets like this, but nowadays it's more convenient to have one.

I think that denim jackets made in the olden days were made to serve as industrial and real workwear, so there was no need for pockets when working, but in modern times, pockets are necessary for blousons and jackets. necessary.

If I didn't have it, I think I would even think of it as inconvenient clothing.

Therefore, it is equipped with waist pockets so that it can be worn in today's society.

And on the sides of the body, there is usually one more layer of fabric than in a denim jacket.

I wonder why this is?

I think it's either to add a pocket or to make the arm move smoothly up and down, but I'll ask Mr. Watanabe from COTTLE next time.

Red red selvedge that looks great with the indigo coloring.

It blends well with the sewing thread, but I think it gives off a very rich mood.

The adjustable tab of Bengala Selvage is made of two layers of fabric.

And this Bengalaselvich.

It is a very elaborate fabric hem, but it seems that many steps are required to make it happen.

Initially, when the yarn is procured, it is intended to be put into a loom, so a considerable amount of yarn is wound around a tube called a "cheese."

However, at COTTLE, the selvedge is dyed with red iron.

Because Red Garla dyeing is a natural dye, it is not possible to dye the yarn itself when there are large bundles of cheese threads.

Therefore, the strings must be carefully removed from the ``spool'' of the cheese to avoid getting tangled.

This removed state, which is made into a bundle of threads, is called a "skein", but this cannot be done by brands.

However, unless it is made into a skein, it cannot be dyed with red iron.

There are companies that specialize in this, so it's a professional job.

Furthermore, in modern times, most natural dyeing has been replaced by chemical dyeing, so the number of companies that make ``skeins'' from it has decreased dramatically.

At COTTLE, we ask a company in Nishiwaki City, Hyogo Prefecture to turn the cheese (spools of thread) into skeins (bundles of thread), which are then hand-dyed in Kurashiki City using red-colored red dye.

Afterwards, in Ibara City, Okayama Prefecture, the red iron skeins are transformed from skeins (bundles of thread) back to cheese (spools of thread) and set on looms.

The structure of the loom is also special.

It is woven using a special loom that is equipped with a jacquard device for weaving Bengalaselvich only on the inner part of the shuttle loom.

Of course, Bengala Selvich's COTTLE DENIM is woven very slowly, taking its time and creating a feeling that is as close to hand-woven as possible.

And then there's the button, which has already been shown in photos many times before.

Strictly speaking, it is called a tuck button.

This is, of course, a COTTLE original.

Mr. Watanabe says that he wanted the button to convey Japanese technology and attention to detail at first glance.

You can't see it when it's new, but there are copper-coated zinc alloy tuck buttons inside.

The unique tuck button pattern has a series of 23 circles representing prosperity carved into the 6mm diameter.

Moreover, it is not just circles stuck together, but a very fine finish in which each circle is connected in a chain.

There are many tuck buttons that just have some text on them, but I think this level of detail is the best in the world.

Even tuck buttons like this change beautifully and naturally as you wear them.

And the back.

A cotton lining is pasted on the back, considering the wearability and the balance necessary for clothing.

Red selvedge on the placket.

And since the cuffs are placed in the same way, it may be a good idea to weave the cuffs on the sleeves.

The sides of the body,

sleeve,

Many areas, such as the shoulders and back yoke, have "wrap stitches".

However, only the armholes are sewn with an overlock + chain.

Even though the armholes are naturally rounded, I wondered why COTTLE, who has sufficient sewing skills, did not ``roll-stitch'' these armholes.

When I asked Mr. Watanabe about this, he gave me a straight and understandable answer.

"When wrapping the armholes, up to eight layers of fabric overlap in many places, making it very thick and stiff."

``At LEAF VEIN, we always try to make the seam allowances thin, and we are conscious of flat and beautiful sewing, but I think it's wrong to simply follow the vintage style and wrap the armholes on denim. .”

That's what I was told.

got it. and.

That's right.

In old vintage denim jackets, the armholes are sewn with rolled stitches, but in the past I have only noticed that only brands that claim to faithfully reproduce vintage styles have rolled stitches on the armholes. I thought that there were more and more things that weren't sewing every year.

And when I asked them why, they all gave the same answer.

“Wrap stitching is difficult and you can’t make armholes.”

something like.

Until now, I've only come across denim jackets that don't have the armholes rolled and sewn because of the manufacturer's circumstances.

But that's not the case with COTTLE.

Aiming for ``comfort for the wearer'' and ``sleek appearance when worn,'' we intentionally adopted a sewing specification that makes the armholes the smoothest possible.

I feel that this speaks volumes not only of the COTTLE brand's technical capabilities, but also of the high level of thought that goes into making clothes.

Well, in short, it would be great if people could truly feel that ``first-class clothes are made by top-class people.''

"UNIFORM FOR LIVING" = "Tools for life"

Original tag embroidered with.

Each stamp is stamped by hand in the atelier.

and a handwritten quality indication.

wear.

I'm 167cm tall and weigh 52kg, and I'm wearing size 1.

I can wear a size 0, but at the time I was wearing a DINANT sweater from MOTHER HAND artisan as an inner layer, so the size 0 made me feel sluggish.

I should have made the innerwear thinner, but since I took the photo of myself wearing it just before the store opened, it was the end of the year, and I thought there might be a visitor to the store, so I wore the MOTHER HAND artisan sweater that I was wearing at the time. I wore Suvin Gold Supreme pants as they were and quickly took a photo.

Then, no one came to the store at all, and no one came for a while. lol

Also, the Suvin Gold Supreme pants were more shiny than I expected. lol

I don't have any coordination suggestions, so I'll leave it up to you.

However, I really like this outfit.

I think this denim jacket is authentic, yet effortless and natural, and yet has a very original feel to it.

This COTTLE denim series is simple, but has a lot of thought put into it.

and,,,

COTTLE

CTL STRAIGHT DENIM PANTS

material _ COTTON 91%,LINEN 9%

color _ WASHED INDIGO (one wash)

size _ 0(28inch),1(30inch),2(32inch),3(34inch),4(36inch)

this.

Jeans that I think are the best quality at the moment.

Seriously, everyone, look at this, wear it, and tremble.

I think these are truly wonderful jeans that thoroughly pursue the beauty of use.

As mentioned above, the fabric, the stitch work including the color scheme, and its form.

COTTLE creates transcendental jeans that go beyond the concept of "trend" in fashion.

When I wear it myself, I feel that it has been pursued as a "tool for daily life" that can be used every day, no matter what time of year it is worn.

It is very suitable as the first outfit of the new year.

I'm happy to be able to introduce this to you.

I can already feel the aura of COTTLE jeans even in the photos I took myself.

I hope everyone can feel it even through the screen.

As mentioned above, original denim fabric, stitch work, tuck buttons, red selvedge coin pocket, belt loops.

All of those elements stand out.

It was a time when everyone in the town of Kojima was working together to create "domestic denim."

I think this is the culmination of COTTLE's careful consideration of what it should do in Kojima, which is said to be the ``denim mecca'', while paying respect to what its predecessors had developed and not changing it too much.

In the pocket, denim threads erupt from copper rivets, and a red-dyed selvedge coin pocket.

In theory, the coin pocket uses the fabric horizontally, but in COTTLE, the fabric is used vertically to make use of the original selvedge.

The type of sewing thread is different for each pocket, creating a nice contrast.

The belt loop has fine stitching, but it is designed so that the grip falls slightly from the loop itself.

This is also a golden rule of authentic Kojima quality.

The front has a button fly design.

An original tuck button is placed on the top button, and a donut button is placed on the button fly.

It also features a "V stitch" on the waistband.

Also, it's a small detail, but the upper and lower parts of the waistband are sewn with the same color thread and count, but with different sewing machines.

This is also a lock stitch on the top, which becomes a V stitch, and a chain stitch on the bottom, which is used to sew the body together.

And the front endpaper has a standard overlock process.

Furthermore, the buttonholes are made of dark navy colored thread to match the indigo hue.

Lockstitch, chain, overlock, buttonhole, button/rivet attachment, kandome.

Six different types of special sewing machines are used just for the waist area shown in the photo above.

I think everyone has seen denim pants before, but unlike other clothes, they require a lot of specialized sewing machines to make.

At COTTLE, all of this is completed in the atelier.

Unless you make full use of multiple types of sewing machines, you will not be able to create something that is authentic and has a timeless framework.

However, I think it is precisely because so many things are used that there is a huge difference in quality.

That's why I instantly felt that a lot of thought and effort had been put into this item within the limited framework of jeans.

These denim pants.

All the elements you can see are seriously on a whole other level.

I think everyone will get a feel for this if they put it side by side with jeans lying around and compare it.

The quality is so high that I can say that.

No matter who makes it, they will never be able to reach this level.

Because it's not worth it.

It looks normal, but it's not ultra-cool.

back.

The waistband, belt loops, grips, and pocket openings are sewn with gold-brown stitching.

On the other hand, there is orange stitching around the back yoke, leg openings, and pockets.

If jeans had not been born on the West Coast of the United States, pants with this color scheme, stitching, and specifications would not have been created. I read this in a book before.

If I had been born on the East Coast, in New York, this would not have happened.

Although it is officially unknown who designed the ``5-pocket jeans,'' designers from all over the world have said, ``I'm jealous that I didn't design them.'' , is said to be a "masterpiece" in terms of clothing history.

I was reminded of this again when I saw COTTLE jeans.

And the leather patch is a brown one with a pile of Kudu leather.

Normally, when COTTLE is one-washed, it comes with natural-colored tanned leather, but when I first wore COTTLE jeans, I noticed that the colors of the fabric and stitching were very "folk art-like." I felt the mood.

Thinking about that, I thought brown Kudu would be a better fit for me than the natural colored tanned leather.

That's why we changed the products we sell to the leather patch shown in the photo instead of the usual tanned leather.

Also, in brand development, there are also rigid and processed items, but at our store, all items are one-wash.

The reason for this is that even though Rigid fabrics are pre-shrunk, they always shrink when washed.

Therefore, the length cannot be adjusted accurately.

And with COTTLE, after one wash, we put it in a gas tumbler to dry.

By doing so, you can shrink it even in one wash and match the length perfectly.

Also, the reason why I decided to make it a one-wash product is because, as I said earlier, I wanted you to experience an outstanding feel on your skin the moment you put it on.

I think those who actually wear it will be able to empathize with my thoughts.

Perfect rolled stitch sewing.

here.

One of the most difficult parts of sewing jeans.

Short legs.

There are a lot of overlapping fabrics, and if the pitch is out of order, it will be visible, so it will affect the appearance.

This place is also very nicely done.

COTTLE jeans have universal details, but have a very strong element and mood.

However, I feel that it is not monotonous here either, and is designed with a very good rhythm.

this.

Can you see the thin thread stitching between the front and back sections, and then on the back section? ?

This is called "quinch stitch".

This is one of the factors to consider when determining the age of vintage Levi's, but my impression is that the more a brand imitates Levi's, the thicker the stitching threads will be.

The more original the brand's denim is, the thinner the quince stitches will be. Well, that's just my opinion.

In this way, even if the color of the sewing thread is the same, by changing the thickness of the thread, you can create shadows, and I think that the overall balance creates depth in the jeans themselves.

However, most brands do not use as many different types of sewing thread as COTTLE.

It's simply more time consuming.

However, when it is completed, I think that when you look at the clothes, the things that appeal to your subconscious mind will be completely different.

However, it is not generally done.

At COTTLE, the idea of ​​"folk crafts" is an important essence of the brand.

That's why I'm dedicated to making good products, working diligently and carefully.

COTTLE is the only denim pants I've seen in my life that leave me feeling so moved.

Because it's one wash.

It's not an expression through processing.

I think it's amazing.

Bengalaselvich.

Of course, the hem is finished with a chain.

Also, COTTLE is designed to have a longer length.

Therefore, I naturally had the hem hemmed, but I think most of the people who will be able to get it this time will need to hem it.

As I mentioned earlier, it won't shrink anymore, so I would like to adjust it to the perfect length from what is in the store, but COTTLE will actually hem it for you at the atelier.

If you have made a purchase and need the hem hemmed, you will not be able to take it home on the same day and will have to hand it over at a later date, but Mr. Watanabe of COTTLE has arranged for this to be done for free. I will do it.

So please just give me time.

Such a super safe original hem.

If you live far away, please contact us and we will be able to help you hem your hair with peace of mind.

Due to the chain stitching, you can already see the ripples at the hem and the beautiful color of the red dye.

And look.

this. side view.

The beautiful and sophisticated outline makes it hard to believe that these are 5-pocket jeans.

This changes the concept of jeans.

I used to think that jeans that didn't fade were really unfashionable and uncool, but COTTLE's are different.

The colors are beautiful, and I felt that what this outline depicts was in a different world than I had ever experienced before.

Of course, there are likes and dislikes, and I think it's a no-no for those who only wear wide pants, but I'm sure adult gentlemen will appreciate it very much.

However, size 0 is also a good size for women, so I would be very happy if women could pick it up as well.

back.

The back side is also incredibly beautiful.

It's simple, but everything is in order.

On the back, multiple colors harmonize with each other.

Only the buttonholes are navy.

A stamp will be attached to the bag cloth.

Many of these stamps are pretty lame, though. lol

COTTLE's is cool.

back.

As you can see, the back pocket has hidden rivets.

This rolled stitched face is very beautiful.

You can clearly see that it is sewn neatly and carefully.

The outseam is red-dyed selvedge.

On the other hand, inseam is an authentic jeans sewing "interlock".

White sewing thread is also used here.

It is sewn using the appropriate thread according to the area to be sewn.

Chain stitch starting from the inside of the hem.

I also really like the contrast between the delicate pitch of the locking hands and the strong chain stitch sewing.

And this.

I also wore it in the Suvin Gold Supreme coat with nonnotte the other day.

Well, I wear them all the time.

Along with Araki Yuu's Knickerbockers, it has become my uniform.

this.

My CTL STRAIGHT DENIM PANTS that I have been wearing for about half a year.

Even though I say six months, it's not just two or three days a week.

At most 7 days a week, at least 5 days a week.

However, I wear them from mid-morning to almost midnight.

That's why I wear them so much. lol

I've washed it 6 times so far. In the washing machine.

As mentioned above, new products are one-wash, so I waited quite a while for the first time I washed them myself, and for the second time I washed the denim.

First of all, it is important to develop a habit.

After the first wash at home, I don't care about anything else.

Wash when you want. And wear it. that's all.

In fact, I wanted to wear it because of the quality.

I started wearing them before summer, so it was a bit hot at times, but I hope everyone will be able to see them in the new year.

There are two main reasons for selling at this time.

The first is that these jeans have such an amazing feel to them, so I wanted to make them at a suitable time for the turning point of the new year.

Second, I wanted to make it a season where you don't sweat as much as possible so that you can postpone doing your own laundry at home.

There are two reasons for this.

So, if you can get your hands on one, wear it once in a while until summer. Use.

From here, please take a look at some photos of my personal belongings.

The copper coating on the original tuck button is also showing.

Not only the denim fabric and sewing thread, but even the buttons change.

This is what COTTLE thinks of as ``beautifying with age.''

I've been following jeans for a long time, so I've worn a variety of jeans, from rigid and one-wash to deadstock vintage, replicas, and designer, but COTTLE's are definitely my favorite.

The key points when choosing the size are very different from other pants.

Unless you really want to wear a larger size, listen to me.

If you can close the top tuck button when you try it on, that's the best size.

Even just the last minute is OK.

That's the best way to wear jeans.

Because it will definitely grow.

I wouldn't go as far as to say that it's as bitchy as Resolute, but we recommend that you choose the true size as much as possible.

If you do that, before you know it, it will be gently adhering to your lower body.

And before you know it, I think you'll be able to fully appreciate COTTLE's "beautification over time."

this.

New worn photo.

I'm 167cm tall, weigh 52kg and wear size 0.

Can you feel it? ?

This beautiful outline.

A flowing form that exists in a completely different position from today's loose silhouettes.

Too beautiful.

Raw materials, fabrics, sewing, accessories, outlines.

All of that feels like an incredible level to me.

Denim is a genre that I love so much, and this quality can truly be called "God denim".

Unlike jeans that are excessive and stiff, they have a quiet appearance and are of good quality that you will want to use in your daily life.

CTL DENIM achieves this balance that cannot be found anywhere else.

Starting in the new year, I would like to introduce to you the COTTLE denim series, which has moved my heart greatly.

At the time of sale, we will have the tools used to make the denim series, the production process, and COTTLE's philosophy available for you to experience.

Regarding the price,

CTL NEO TYPE 2nd DENIM JACKET is ¥57,000- (¥62,700-).

CTL STRAIGHT DENIM PANTS is ¥43,000- (¥47,300-).

We will be selling it in-store starting from our first sale from 11am on January 2nd.

We also plan to post it on our online store the next day, the 3rd, around 6pm.

Size specifications will be listed on the product page when posted online, so please take a look there.

We look forward to seeing you all from 11am on January 2nd.

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