Today, Yamauchi.
It's February, and clothes that can be worn comfortably during the spring and summer seasons in Japan are becoming more and more available, and the one I'm introducing today is one of them.
The title of this blog is "transcendent," but the clothes themselves also have the word "transcendence."
Mr. Yamauchi, who has been making clothes for over 20 years, and who sees and thinks about things in extreme detail, calls it "transcendence", so it is "transcendence". lol
Well, the brand refers to the fabric as ``transcendent,'' but I also think that using that ``transcendent fabric'' to make clothes that look like ``Yamauchi'' in extremely fine detail is also ``transcendent.'' "I think so.
this.
Yamauchi
Super high-density linen cross mountain jacket
face material_LINEN 100%
lining material _ COTTON 70%, POLYESTER 30%
color_KINARI
size_2 only
A jacket made entirely of 100% linen, which has the name "extremely high density."
First of all, the "face" of the clothes is completely different from the feel of today's mainstream clothes.
I think it's very dark and has a very unique smell.
As a brand, a while ago, the focus was on clothes with a certain kind of clean and beautiful nuance, but that's fine, and I've always admired Mr. Yamauchi for clothes with this kind of mood. .
Originally, there was a time when I was making clothes in a genre called The Artisan Brand, and to put it simply, I was looking for clothes that had a straight ``artisan'' look. I don't think so, but I think that in addition to Yamauchi's "craftsmanship", it has a rich look that no other brand can match. forever.
Well, rather than adding hand sewing like Yuu Araki, Mr. Yamauchi of Yamauchi makes full use of the sewing machine at the world's top level, and on top of that, he does it to the point where it seems too detailed. He is a person who continues to design clothes with great attention to detail down to the cellular level.
In a sense, it's within the scope of a "product," but there are times when an "outstanding product" has been completed.
And I think so this time too.
Because it's amazing.
As I said earlier, the fabric is 100% linen, which is extremely high density.
This fabric is "plain weave linen".
Plain weave linen is a type of fabric that you often see during the spring and summer seasons, especially in the summer.
Linen has strong fibers, so it is suitable for spinning yarn and weaving fabrics that allow air to pass through easily.
Therefore, in many cases, or rather, in most cases, 100% plain-woven linen fabric is "transparent."
Furthermore, the higher the quality of the linen raw materials, the more we want to take advantage of the quality, softness, and smoothness of the fibers, making the fabric even thinner and more "transparent."
On the other hand, the airflow is good, so it feels good in the summer.
However, the fabric of Yamauchi's "Plain Weave Linen 100" is as amazing as its name suggests.
Apparently, the quality of the linen itself is rated as "first class."
It is plain woven, but it is not see-through. absolutely.
It is a fabric woven with "another dimension of high density."
"Dimensional high density".
There's no way anyone could do something like that.
More, more, more
Maybe...
This fabric is woven by...
Wait, wait,
No way.
We are "Kaneta Orimono".
As expected. Mr. Kaneta.
When it comes to weaving fabrics made from plant fibers, mainly cotton, I don't think there are many weavers that can compete with Mr. Kaneta.
Kaneta Orimono has the technology, and on top of that, they are always pursuing, exploring, and developing on their own.
That's why we use "100% plain weave linen", a fabric that everyone has seen in their lives.
Something no one has ever seen before. Build up.
When you learn about the fabrics made by Kaneta Orimono, your sense of values will seriously change.
I think so.
What's more, Yamauchi's jacket is made of 100% linen, unbleached and undyed.
In other words, it is the color of the fiber itself that ranks it as "first class".
According to Mr. Yamauchi, this is so rare that you can hardly see it.
Therefore, even if it is an ultra-high density fabric, the quality of the original raw materials is still intact, so it doesn't feel like a stiff or crunchy fabric.
The high density is obvious to anyone who looks at it, but there is no negative statement about the fabric that would make you feel uncomfortable when wearing it.
You can really feel the fineness of the texture, so I think everyone can feel that it looks like it could be worn tough and hard.
As mentioned above, the linen of first-class quality is made with a shuttle loom at a different level of density, and then made into clothes using Yamauchi's incredibly detailed craftsmanship.
And, as expected, not only the fabric, but also the entire outfit, is "transcendent."
The design is extremely complex and unprecedented in everyday clothes.
this.
collar.
The density of the fabric is exceptional, so the stitch work designed by Yamauchi stands out to the point where it's not obvious.
A huge number of stitch "dots" continue in succession.
Where you need to sew straight, be sure to sew straight.
Where the curve is to be softly drawn, the curve is perfectly drawn.
The surface has stitching to support the large collar.
And inside the neck.
On the inside, there are a total of 13 stitches to make the collar itself strong.
I can already feel a lot of power from just this part.
Also, oh yeah.
This time, Yamauchi's jacket is considered a big piece, as it is classified as an "outerwear" category, even though it is considered spring or fall clothing by the brand.
Yamauchi's clothes of this type do not have "reverse stitches" at all sewing points.
I still can't believe how much clothes they make.
At the beginning and end of all seams, I pull the sewing thread from the wrong side of the fabric, bring it out to the other side, and tie it by hand.
In order to prevent the stitched areas from fraying, backstitching is used to secure the thread by overlapping the stitches, but sometimes the backstitched areas can overlap and look like clumps.
Mr. Yamauchi absolutely hates that.
Clothes with seams like that never reach the standards of the Yamauchi brand.
That's why this jacket also has no backstitching .
Well, I'm writing normally, but it's really dangerous. lol
However, I have always wanted to deliver carefully made, well-made clothes to those who can hold and wear Yamauchi's clothes. Mr. Yamauchi.
It's a reflection of your feelings and way of thinking.
front.
This jacket has a total of 8 zipped pockets.
Four on the front, one on each left and right sleeve, and one on each side of the lining.
All pockets have zippers, but the zippers are not visible.
All have hidden teeth (mushi = small teeth on the zipper).
sleeve.
When you open it, I think everything has the perfect size for the pocket opening.
The sleeves can't really be seen in the photo, but they have a nice triangular shape when viewed from the side. The real thing.
The sleeves are decorated with highly transparent buffalo horns.
The cuff width is adjustable.
By the way, it may not matter, but the back of the adjustable strap is also made of the same extremely high-density linen as the outer material.
The front has a double structure with a zipper and buffalo horn.
And the front zipper is also hidden.
The fabric used to hide the zipper has also been switched to extremely high-density 100% cotton.
Anyway, the edges of the fabric that hides the zipper are folded into a triangular shape, but this is done in order to neatly fit the edges of the fabric and so that it does not get in the way when the zipper is being raised and lowered. This is the detail.
Not only the top, but also the bottom.
It's really a decent brand.
I've been making clothes like this for a long time.
Even if it is possible to make clothes like this temporarily, not everyone can do it continuously.
That's why I think Yamauchi is an authentic clothing manufacturer.
The structure of this jacket is also different.
As you can see, there is no shoulder line where the body and sleeves switch.
Do you understand? ?
The sleeves are stretched out by pulling the fabric under the armpits towards the front so you can see the sleeves clearly.
The left side of the photo is the front side, and the right side is the back side.
By the way, the fabric looks wavy at the bottom of the sleeves, but this is not due to the seams stretching.
Because the sleeves swing forward, when the sleeves are laid straight as shown in the photo, the fabric at the bottom has a large amount of pattern, so it only looks wavy like this. hey.
A very unusual construction and stitch work that stands out.
The "split top stitches" all over the place are incredibly beautiful.
And the hem of the side of the body.
Body side.
The lower part is the body, and the upper part is the sleeve side.
As shown in the photo, I added a piece of fabric to change it up.
And this continues all the way to the cuffs.
By the way, the sleeves have an amazing 6-piece sleeve structure, which consists of 6 layers of fabric.
tremendous.
If you take a look at this photo again, from the body to the sleeves, you might be able to understand something, but the fact that a single piece of fabric continues from the hem to the cuffs makes it incredibly easy to raise your arms.
Super smooth operation.
It feels amazing to wear.
This jacket has been designed with great consideration to the comfort factor.
And above all else, this.
As mentioned earlier, the transcendentally beautiful and exquisitely detailed stitch work of "split stitch + edge stitch".
Of course, there is no "reverse stitch" at the beginning and end of sewing.
The same goes for the fabric, but the specifications are such that you can feel Yamauchi's highest level of sewing to the maximum.
This stitch work creates an amazing mood for the clothes.
tremendous.
I think the stitching makes you want to follow it with your eyes forever.
And the back.
The back is also Pekikan.
There are also two pockets with hidden zippers on the back.
The lining is changed in the same way as the outer material, with some room left in the same area.
The seamstress is "Koichi Sekiyo".
Narukiyo continues to sew the main pieces of Yamauchi's collection.
Well, when I look at this outfit, I realize that Narukiyo is the one who made the clothes with these specifications.
When I look at the clothes, it's obvious that it's too complicated to sew at a sewing factory that sews regular mass-produced clothes.
Hats off to Mr. Yamauchi, who designed it himself in detail, but also to Mr. Narukiyo, who actually sewed it into a product at this level.
By the way, Mr. Narukiyo seems to be friends with Mr. Abe and Mr. Kobayashi of IRENISA.
This jacket was woven from first-class linen by Kaneta Orimono, designed by Yamauchi, and sewn with great care and time by Narukiyo.
A dream collaboration is now available in Yamauchi's collection.
There is a reason why we only carry the smallest size, 2.
This is a larger design.
I'm 167cm tall and weigh 52kg, and Yamauchi's size 2 is usually the best for me, but this one is big.
My impression is that Yamauchi is somewhere between 3 and 4. It's not loose, but it's substantial.
It depends on the person who will be able to get it and how they want to wear it, but my guess is that it will be someone between 170cm and 176cm tall.
If you are like that, I don't think the sleeve length will be a problem.
Well, I didn't take any photos of myself wearing it.
So, if you like it, please take a look.