"Standing on the shoulders of giants"
This phrase, in the title, is often quoted in the world of academic research.
It is an idiom used to describe how research advancements and technological innovations are built upon the accumulated results of previous research and technological developments by our predecessors.
When writing academic papers, one must research previous studies in the relevant field and what conclusions those studies have reached, and then state what one intends to research and conclude oneself.
In short, it is a teaching that we stand on the foundations built by those who came before us.
I believe the world of clothing is different from academia, but "he" uses this phrase to express his unwavering stance in his own clothing making.
Perhaps it is akin to a self-admonishment he gained through real-life experiences during the first half of his life.
"He" was born and raised in Osaka.
He recalls his grandfather operating a Shima Seiki manual knitting machine in the garden during his childhood, and he said that eventually going into clothing might have been in his blood.
After graduating from junior high school, this "he" embarked on a journey across America in his mid-teens.
He admired the hip-hop scene and skaters of the time, and made a major decision for someone his age to actually immerse himself in that community and live there.
However, that decision at the time was not made with the intention of pursuing a career in fashion later on.
After nearly a year of wandering in America (he said he was homeless for about a week during that time), "he" returned to Japan and, with the goal of expanding his future possibilities, re-entered high school and began studying for university entrance exams.
He said he didn't dislike studying, but it became interesting as he worked on past exam questions, and as a result of his dedication, he went on to Kyoto University.
According to "him", "Kyoto University's problems are incredibly twisted yet hit at the essence, like CAROL CHRISTIAN POELL in clothing."
I don't understand. (Laughs)
Afterward, "he" aspired to make clothes from the culture he had accumulated within himself and decided to attend a pattern-making school concurrently with university.
Then, after graduating from Kyoto University, he worked in textile development for international haute couture brands.
And after that, "he" launched a brand named after himself and introduced it to the world.
At that very time, by chance, the brand was also introduced to CASANOVA&CO.
At the time, due to timing, we couldn't introduce it to everyone, but I went to the exhibition for the second season and spoke to "him" for the first time.
"His" name is Daisuke Tanabe.
Although a man of few words, Mr. Tanabe spoke quietly but powerfully, conveying that there was an unwavering "foundation" to his words and expressions.
However, at the time of that second season's exhibition, my exhibition schedule was so tight that I only had about 30 minutes, and I couldn't properly look at the clothes or talk, so I left the venue with the question of what that "foundation" was still unanswered.
Six months later, the brand's third season exhibition was held last month.
Again, I spoke with Mr. Tanabe and the brand team and looked at the clothes.
I felt something much more compelling than before.
At that time, I didn't yet know Mr. Tanabe's background or past experiences, but I felt that he was properly incorporating the cultures he had encountered into his clothing design as his own nourishment, and I was convinced that this was the true nature of his "foundation."
He must be a wonderful person who has encountered various cultures and works, appropriately respects them, and then objectively considers what he should do.
That's what I thought just by looking at his clothes.
And just the other day, after hearing about Mr. Tanabe's background and way of thinking as mentioned above, it all made perfect sense.
I believe it has become a habit for Mr. Tanabe to objectively view how the things he encounters connect with society.
That is why Mr. Tanabe's clothes are not composed solely of his own assertions, but also incorporate methods derived from the artisans and technologies he works with, as well as inspirations from works that have influenced him, giving them a strong social relevance.
"Standing on the shoulders of Giants"
This phrase, in Mr. Tanabe's clothing creation, might mean that he imposes upon himself to be appropriately influenced not only by fields closely related to his own creations but also by surrounding industries and cultures.
In that sense, I think Mr. Tanabe is very skilled at "being influenced."
He appropriately takes in, appropriately critiques and interprets, and incorporates it into his own expression.
It is a highly subjective collection by Mr. Tanabe, yet a collection pregnant with objective social relevance.
Of course, basic clothing manufacturing techniques are important, but I believe Mr. Tanabe's unparalleled strong point lies here.
On March 15th and 16th, Mr. Tanabe will be at CASANOVA&CO with two pieces of clothing.
We will properly introduce these two pieces of clothing at a later date, but we will be accepting orders for only three days starting from Friday, the 14th.
This is the super powerful piece series from the 2025 AW season collection, which is the brand's third season, and it completely captivated my heart.
Please take a look.
daisuke tanabe "syvash"
2025.03.14 - 2025.03.16
To be continued...