Nobuyuki Matsui "CASE" shirt

Dear online site users,

nice to meet you.

My name is Naka from CASANOVA&CO.

Thank you very much for always using our website.

In my reading material, I hope to be able to unravel the reasons why the clothes are so great and cool by looking at photos of them being worn.

However, the main focus will be on photos of the items being worn,

You can also check the size.

You can also use it as a reference for styling.

You can use it however you like.

Anyway, I hope this helps some of you.

Now, let's get straight to the point.

This time, let me introduce two types of shirts from Nobuyuki Matsui: the Italian collar shirt and the Henley neck shirt.

Unlike patterned shirts or colorful clothes, this shirt's appeal lies in the beauty that emanates from the way the clothing is constructed.

This is a piece that will solve the problem of those who want something simple, but not simple at the same time.

Nobuyuki Matsui

Framed italian collar shirts

color_WHITE

size_2,3

This is the last shirt from Nobuyuki Matsui for spring/summer.

The theme for the 24SS season is "CASE."

In Japanese it's called "frame".

Physical boundaries, social boundaries, mental boundaries, etc.

People live within many frameworks.

Amidst all this, designer Matsui Nobuyuki's eye was caught by an architectural framework.

Of the many architectural elements available, the one that was chosen was the "shoji" screen, a type of screen commonly seen in traditional Japanese houses.

Now that you mention it, it really is a shoji screen.

This is a typical choice for Nobuyuki Matsui, who has valued traditional Japanese clothing manufacturing since the brand's inception.

This shirt has a shoji screen motif.

The way the lattice patterns are arranged in an orderly fashion is quite a sight.

But the more I look,

How do you make this shirt?

Aren't you curious?

When I first saw this shirt, I thought it was made up of a piece of fabric in the shape of a short-sleeved shirt with a square piece of fabric stuck on top of it.

But this was different.

It had an amazing structure.

Let's take a look behind the scenes.

! ! ! ? ! ? ? ? ! ! ? ? ? ? ? ! ?

!?!? Can you understand?!?!

This is made by patchworking square pieces of fabric onto a frame shaped like a shirt.

Yes, it's patchwork.

that's why,,,

It's not pasted on...!!!

It's sewn properly!!!

There is a seam allowance on both pieces of fabric, and every edge is neatly sewn together.

There are roughly 50 frames per shirt, which adds up to a total of about 200 sides (!), and all of them are sewn together...

I used to work in planning and production management at an apparel company, so when I saw this structure, it vividly reminded me of the days of fierce battles with the factories (we weren't fighting, we were working together to face the same challenges)... Tears...

This thorough approach to expressing the season's theme is something that only Matsui, who majored in psychology in London, could do.

Don't dismiss the thoughts and feelings that arise within you.

The clothes really convey that the designer is taking the theme seriously.

This is a brand where things like "it's time-consuming" aren't something that will be understood.

Moreover, I don't think this structure is just for aesthetic reasons because the theme is "frame."

The design is such that it provides benefits when worn.

Let's take another look at the photos of the outfit.

Something like...

Even though it's a loose fit with dropped shoulders, it still gives a very sharp impression, doesn't it?

Loose yet sharp.

At first glance, seemingly contradictory elements coexist.

The secret lies in the fabric that forms the beige frame.

This fabric is 100% silk,

Unlike regular silk, it is not runny.

It's rather a hard texture.

This fabric is woven throughout the body of the shirt, acting as a framework to support the beautiful details that are the product of Matsui's tailoring skills.

So, even though the sizing is loose for Nobuyuki Matsui, the edges of the frame-shaped fabric give it a very sharp look.

Can you see this three-dimensional effect?

When the arms are tucked into the sides, the body is pressed down, creating a stunning three-dimensional effect.

The design allows for what is known as "room for hugging."

Going beyond the metaphor of "edgy"

The back really shows the edges.

The shape is more like a square prism than a cylinder.

That's why it's sharp.

The different lengths of the hem at the front and back also contribute to the beauty of your profile.

The darts on the back of the shoulders and the slightly curved frame-shaped fabric prove that the three-dimensionality of this shirt was not achieved by chance.

Back view.

The result is a series of "squares" with slightly different shapes.

The "visual" effect may also be related to sharpness.

And it's not just the body that's three-dimensional.

The collar is also very three-dimensional.

The collar part is sewn with a stitch called a middle stitch, which means the stitches are not visible.

The invisible stitches give the garment a classy look, and the seam allowance acts as a core, giving the garment a plump, firm look that is very three-dimensional.

Then it is made into a single piece with a placket.

The curves are as beautiful as a good jacket.

The streamlined collar shape is truly big wave.

This is a must-have for fashion lovers and surfers.

If you're a surfer who likes clothes, you'll definitely faint.

The body is edgy and sharp, yet the collar is streamlined and elegant.

Here again, different elements coexist beautifully.

If you look even more closely, you'll notice that there is still more coexistence in this shirt.

First, the front part.

Italian collar shirts once established their reputation as casual wear in resort areas.

For that reason, while it is common for the buttons to be visible on the placket, this jacket has a hidden placket, giving it a dressy impression.

Casual yet dressy.

Coexistence here too.

And even the fabric.

While the fabric has a rough look with its cut edges and wrinkles, the faint sparkle and transparency of the silk also gives it a sense of elegance and sexiness.

In this way, many seemingly contradictory elements coexist and intertwine in this shirt.

Although her appearance is very conventional, her style is not bound by conventions at all.

What's even more amazing is that without any one element being too dominant, each element works in a beneficial way, creating a wonderful harmony.

The reason he is able to control his clothes to this extent is due to Matsui's rare ability to handle everything from patterns to sewing and fabric processing.

The level of completion of the clothes is truly amazing.

This shirt not only looks great, but is also extremely comfortable to wear.

It's very light and cool.

A square piece of fabric that takes up most of the shirt.

This is a fabric that is 53% cotton and 47% silk.

As you can see, it's so thin that it's almost see-through when exposed to sunlight.

This fabric makes up the majority of the shirt, making it a must-have for summer clothing.

・Physical lightness when worn

・Appearance of lightness (this is surprisingly important!)

- Breathability that allows you to feel a cool breeze

It has both of these features.

So the combination of frame-shaped fabric that creates a three-dimensional space and light, airy square fabric creates the perfect equation for comfort.

It is a systematic shirt that has been carefully designed with such details in mind.

It feels more like you're wearing it than actually putting it on.

Plus, it's washable.

It's perfect.

It's cool,

It's also comfortable to wear,

A washable shirt.

It's the perfect outfit to wear in the summer!

However, it would be a bit weird to only talk about the good points, so I'd like to mention some of the things that bother me.

It is designed to be cut off, so some lint will come out.

If you don't mind that, I think you'll really like this shirt.

SHIRTS: Nobuyuki Matsui

Framed italian collar shirts (3)

BOTTOMS: SEAN SUEN

Folded wool trousers (XS)

Above are the items they are wearing.

The size in parentheses is the size worn (I am 176cm and 57kg).

The three-dimensional look is just as impressive when paired with SEAN SUEN's impressive pants.

However, it is not too assertive, and the beauty that comes from the construction of the clothes is what catches the eye.

Nobuyuki Matsui

Framed henry neck shirts

color_WHITE

size_2,3

And this one has a Henley neck type collar.

This one is also casual yet has a sharp finish.

Unlike an Italian collar, it doesn't have a collar, but it is open enough to show a little bit of the collarbone, giving it a unique sexiness.

The inside of the neck area has a facing that surrounds it all the way around, so the neck doesn't look floppy and it maintains a dignified look.

By the way, many of Nobuyuki Matsui's clothes have piping on the seams.

This is a feature that is rarely seen in ordinary short-sleeved shirts, but is almost always seen in custom-made clothing, also known as bespoke.

These are specifications that only Matsui, who honed his tailoring skills in London and still tailors custom clothing, could come up with.

Tailoring techniques that put the wearer first.

In other words, I think the piping is one example of "Matsui's love."

The "love from Matsui" is clearly visible when the item is worn, but it doesn't look tacky at all.

Rather, the contrast between curves and straight lines is beautiful and is elevated to the level of design.

Here again, we can get a glimpse of Matsui's high level of ability.