The fabric woven by Mr. Keori Kuzuri, who was notified. Super quality kid mohair fiber raised at Australia's stud farm, "Ferreira Ranch". It is spun into a 64-count two-ply yarn that is unique in the world at Suedwolle Group Italia SpA (formerly Safil), Italy, a leading company in the spinning world that excels in spinning mohair. Kuzuri Keori is the only company in Japan that can purchase and weave these threads.
However, this time we asked Kuzuri Keori to use Ferreira mohair, a type of fabric that had never been woven before. Even so, I didn't rule out my hopes, and Mr. Kuzutani of Kuzuri Keori accepted it.
And how to shape it into "clothes". Mr. Yamauchi of "Yamauchi" and I talked about it over and over again and again and again, and Mr. Yamauchi also took a lot of time.
And the people who actually sewed it and sewed it were the four seamstresses. These clothes are made by bringing together the skills of people who are proud of the world and Japan, and who are extremely high level.
In the first place, the Ferreira mohair fabric this time is not a ready-made one at Kuzuri Keori. Making fabric requires such "lots", but there is a limit to the number of meters of fabric that can be made into clothes per store.
That's why I talked to Mr. Kuzutani, he gave me a lot of advice, and I had him weave the fabric with a production meter of "80m". I made "three types of clothes" with Mr. Yamauchi, hoping that the fabric would be used to the best of its ability and that the people who would use it would continue to use it for a long time. 80m of "Ferreira Mohair" fabric that has never been seen in the world. 3 types of clothes, each in 3 sizes. Jackets, coats and pants. I will introduce it.
Yamauchi × CASANOVA&CO × Kuzuri Keori Industry
Ferreira Mohair Jacket
Mixing rate _ Ferreira Mohair 100%
Fabric structure _ double diagonal weave
First, this. Jacket.
This jacket was designed from scratch by Mr. Yamauchi to make the most of the Ferreira mohair fabric. In order to achieve this level of fabric this time, we have made it into shape with the absolute condition that all three types of clothes will be used as a wardrobe for the person who received them. Since it exists as a jacket, I assume that it will be used not only for daily use, but also for "sunny occasions" such as weddings and official occasions.
And I asked Mr. Yamauchi to design the "what I wanted" for a tailored collar style jacket. I just want to say that it was extremely difficult. Mr. Yamauchi. The biggest hurdle is the "rappel". I wanted it to be a lapel with specifications that I would never give up on. That is what it means to "become a stand collar". And that "it can also be a beautiful tailored color".
There is no such tailored color jacket in the world. Because the two are completely opposite.
According to Mr. Yamauchi, this jacket had to match the diametrically opposed details. What do you mean. First of all, "to become a stand-up collar" means that the neck dimension of the margin around the neck when the collar is raised and the height of the collar itself are important when wearing it. Even if it is a stand-up collar, if the collar is too high, it will hit the chin and make the neck feel cramped. However, if you design the "usual collar size" of clothes with a stand-up collar as it is, the lapel will be too small and look poor when the collar is folded back and made into a tailored collar.
In a tailored jacket, the area around the collar is the "face" of the dress, isn't it? In the first place, since it is such a fabric, it is also assumed that you will wear it in a proper scene. For example, wearing a "frivolous jacket" in a place where it is necessary to wear a jacket becomes unforgivable as you get older.
Therefore, if you put too much emphasis on just wearing it with a stand-up collar, when you wear it as a tailored jacket, the collar will be too small and you will end up with something that is not suitable for such occasions. On the other hand, however, if the design emphasizes wearing with a tailored collar, three problems will arise when wearing a stand-up collar.
・When the collar is upright, it is too high and touches the chin. ・The margin around the neck is small and it becomes cramped. "Float" comes out These three problems come out. However, this time, we have matched the two opposite elements in a "unique position" to create a natural and best-balanced collar design. It's not me Mr. Yamauchi.
But I was really worried about it. Mr. Yamauchi.
This jacket was designed from scratch, so let's start with the pattern. The pattern is also drawn by Mr. Yamauchi himself using a "guide pattern" without using a computer system. And after that, the toile group. However, in the course of assembling the toile, there was always something wrong with the collar. Therefore, it was necessary to make multiple fine adjustments over and over again. It seems that this was too difficult, and the jacket is still in production. smile
The sales will start on the 17th (Sat), but the sales will arrive at our store on the 15th or 16th, which is the last minute. Until the very last minute, he was designing it for me to create the "ideal lapel". However, the lapel design, which requires the opposite elements, is wonderfully realized.
When the stand collar is used, the left and right collars fit neatly together, and the neck circumference is perfectly balanced.
Appropriate width lapel for tailored collars with reversed lapels. Normally, if you try to design a lapel that can be used as a stand, the collar will be small, making it difficult to wear in formal occasions.
"Yamauchi dimension" solved it. In order to achieve both, the "gorge line" between the upper and lower collars is set slightly lower. However, if the gorge line is too low, the jacket will look like the old mood of the past.
After that, designing the amount of fabric for the facing of the front and back of the body. Here too, he adjusted the amount of each dough very finely. Be stunned by this collar. Seriously, it's completely different. I don't think I've ever met an ultra lapel jacket like this.
Ferreira mohair is the same as the outer material because the quality is overwhelmingly higher than felt, instead of placing the felt on the lapel of the upper collar. And in addition, the zigzag of the mountain sashimi stitch is included. However, the texture of the fabric is too strong to be seen. smile
The amount of fabric on the upper collar is also different from the usual design. By designing this kind of finely, finely, both a tailored collar and a stand collar are compatible. For this jacket, neither the collar is important, and both are important.
And it's a little detail, but the buttonhole. This is also a design that I discussed with Mr. Yamauchi. In the first place, a buttonhole has a "front and back", but when the button is fastened, the side that exposes the button is the front of the buttonhole. This jacket has 4 buttons on the front as shown in the photo.
I don't think I'll ever keep the bottom button for the rest of my life.
・Fasten the top two buttons when wearing a stand-up collar.
・When wearing a tailored collar, fasten only the third button from the top.
This is the design. However, with this jacket, it can handle pretty well no matter how you fasten it. This is amazing. So you are free. freedom.
However, for the time being, we needed to decide where to take the aim, so we set it as above. that time. In designing the buttonholes, we placed particular importance on wearing them when the lapels with tailored collars were turned back. The reason is that when wearing a tailored collar, you can think of a dress scene.
That's why, as I said earlier, the design of the upper two buttons is the opposite of the usual buttonholes for clothes. When the lapel is turned back, that is, when the button is not fastened and the buttonhole is not used, the "front of the buttonhole" is exposed.
By doing so, I thought that I could approach the dress scene more. It's a pretty detailed story. Also, when the stand collar is used, the buttons are fastened, so the buttonholes are hidden behind the buttons and cannot be seen. That's why I designed it that way.
By the way, Yamauchi's buttonhole is basically a "post knife". First, sew in the shape of the hole, then insert a scalpel and open the hole. That is the "later female". The reason is that they are stronger. I have always preferred females. So look again.
A beautiful buttonhole that is tightly packed with this overlock.
back lapel. As mentioned above, there are beautiful zigzag stitches. This improves the independence of the collar.
When the lapel is folded back, the back lapel is smaller just by feeling, just by feeling. But I don't think so.
And the jacket has an important "shoulder". This should have been "sleeve height" absolutely. This is the point where the body and the sleeves switch, which one is "higher".
The more casual the jacket is, the higher the body is. The better the jacket, the higher the sleeves. I think suits are always designed with high sleeves.
Lately, I've become more and more discouraged from wearing high-bodice jackets like coveralls, so I definitely have to wear high-sleeves in this area. However, instead of putting in shoulder pads to create a typical shoulder, the seam allowance between the sleeves and the body is ``flipped in the direction of the sleeves'' and the ``sleeves are high'', but the shoulders on the body side also have Yamauchi's unique shoulder structure is rare in men's clothing, with a "imitation" specification in which the same fabric of Ferreira and mohair is put into the shoulders so that it can be seen firmly and sufficiently.
In addition, the same Ferreira mohair as the outer material is used on the sleeve side along the armholes, making it a very elaborate structure. That's why the shoulder design is not too stiff and doesn't look light at all. I think this design is also the best balance of the shoulder.
oh yeah. The cuffs are three buttons, and of course, the main face. For this jacket, I'm 167cm tall, 52kg, and I have short hands, but I designed the sleeves to be long for this type of jacket. That's because I wanted to wear it with the cuffs folded.
Whether it's a stand-up collar or a tailored collar, I wanted to turn the cuffs up regardless. There may be some likes and dislikes about this, but if you can sympathize with it, I think it would be good if you could wear it. And I had my own experience that quite a lot of people felt that the sleeves were short, so I reflected that. As a salesperson, this is what I feel when I stand at the store.
So I hope that this sleeve length will appeal to many people. smile
Well, not only the sleeve length, but also the length and width are not normal Yamauchi measurements. In the brand's collection, the sizes are expanded as "2, 3, 4", but the clothes I made this time are written as "S, M, L".
This is because the three types of clothes this time are not the usual size of Yamauchi's collection, but are designed with the size of the people I meet at the store on a daily basis and the customers I know. Of course, I am also pursuing the balance of my ideal clothes, but I would like to eliminate elements such as sleeve length and inseam as much as possible, such as sleeve length and inseam. For this reason, even with the development of 3 sizes, we have made it a "super irregular size pitch".
I would like you to see the size as much as possible without the prejudice of the size in the brand collection, so I made the size notation like that. In particular, S size is for petite and thin people, and L size is for tall people. Especially pants. I hope this sizing is correct. smile
All the buttons are handmade by genuine water buffalo. The fabric this time is "Ferreira Mohair". Kuzuri Keori is a weaver who does not post-process the fabric more than necessary, so the fabric has a tremendous luster, but that is the natural brilliance of the Ferreira mohair and basket weave. is.
This "high quality that cannot be hidden" is reflected in the gloss, so Mr. Yamauchi wanted to use "matte" buttons as much as possible, so he used genuine water buffalo buttons without gloss. increase. The front is 18mm only at the top.
The bottom three are 20mm water buffalo buttons. And the important sewing specifications.
As you can see from this photo, all the edges of the body are double stitched with "edge stitch + 4mm" as shown in the photo.
Initially, the toile made by Mr. Yamauchi had only 5mm stitches from the edge of the fabric. However, when I saw that toile, I felt that the usual mood of Yamauchi's fabric with its edges firmly standing was nowhere to be seen.
That's why I asked him to keep the 5mm stitch from the edge of the fabric as it is, and to add the edge stitch as close as possible from the edge of the fabric. In the first place, the Ferreira mohair this time is a fabric that has amazing resilience, so it seems that it was difficult to sew like before, even if it was "Yamauchi's sewing".
Mohair slips and rebounds tremendously, and in addition to that, ironing doesn't work at all, and ironing takes much longer than normal wool. Therefore, it seems that the people who sewed the fabric this time spent a lot of time and sewed it finely and finely while stretching their nerves. Since it was a fabric that could not be sewn according to that theory, Mr. Yamauchi did not include the "edge stitch", which is important to the brand.
However, when I saw that toile, I felt that even more "Yamauchi Sewing" should be added. So, I immediately asked Mr. Yamauchi to add the edge stitch. As a result, it is a double stitch specification of "edge + 4mm". Well, if you don't double stitch, you can't suppress the bulge of the Ferreira fabric, which is too repulsive.
By the way, except for the double stitching, it is also called a jacket, so I try not to expose the stitching as much as possible. And back.
There are two types of lining. Body lining is 54% wool and 46% cupra. The sleeve lining is 100% cupra. Both back breast pockets have flaps. And there are only two front buttons on the bottom, with a water buffalo power button.
The sewing on the back is super Yamauchi. It's wonderful. Because it's so beautiful.
The lining that changes exactly from the inside. Even on the back, the edge stitching on the flap is perfectly sewn, and the stitch pitch is even and fine.
The change from the back body to the sleeves is also very beautiful.
The front body is lined, but the back is unlined, or rather "half lining". I think that the amount of fabric is more than unlined. The reason for this is that there is a lining all the way to the back, and we thought that a fully lined jacket would be too heavy in terms of weight.
In addition, half the back is covered with lining, and the lining is removed from the waist area, so the lack of lining in this area has little to do with heat retention in winter, so the half lining is used. .
As a result, the length of the jacket this time is set to be a little longer than the regular jacket, so the Ferreira mohair drape can be seen from the back. However, in the end, the lining had to be partially attached to the half lining, and the lining had to be neatly finished, so the sewing specifications were the most time-consuming. .
Very nice backing. It is Yamauchi's original design that neither the vent nor the method of making it has ever existed. You said you thought through this too. However, it was difficult for me and I didn't understand much. smile
However, looking at the sewing specifications, it was a very elaborate vent design. When it goes on sale, I'm thinking of putting it up in the store so that you can see the various things related to this outfit, so maybe you'll be able to understand it if you see it. And then this.
Yamauchi × CASANOVA&CO × Kuzuri Keori Industry
Ferreira Mohair Trousers
Mixing rate _ Ferreira Mohair 100%
Fabric structure _ Double diagonal weave Size _ S, M, L
this. this pants. Just like the jacket I mentioned earlier, I had Mr. Yamauchi of Yamauchi design these pants from scratch, following the pattern guide.
This is also a form that does not exist in the collection. With these pants, we aimed to make the most of 500% of the drape of the 100% Ferreira mohair fabric. So it looks simple from the outside. There are no outside seams, and the side pockets have a pocket structure that uses waist-shaped darts. And it's a pair of pants with a wide silhouette, which is rare for Yamauchi's brand. However, the construction of the inner structure is Yamauchi's specification.
First of all, the structure of the front opening is characteristic. Considering that it will be under the jacket, this is a structure in which the left collar overlaps with the pants when the lapel is upright. This is a characteristic detail proposed by Mr. Yamauchi.
It has a waist structure that is equipped with a carrying bag and tengu. The front is an excella zipper as usual, but this zipper is designed not to reach the top, but to a very comfortable position. The buttons are genuine water buffalo without gloss as before.
No waist band. These pants have a relatively large amount of width, but the tucks and darts are designed to fit around the waist. Also, regarding the super irregular size pitch that I mentioned earlier, I wear S size and have a waist of 73cm. 80 cm for medium size. It is a mysterious design of 86 cm in L size.
This 13 cm waist width is a number that is absolutely impossible in the usual 3 sizes. However, I wanted to eliminate the loose waist phenomenon that is often seen in thin and petite people, and I wanted to set it so that even people in the latter half of 180cm could wear it comfortably with a waist of this size. Did.
Furthermore, the design of the length is completely different between S and L. There is a height difference of 20cm between people in their 160cm and 180cm heights. Therefore, a pitch of 1.5 cm or 2 cm cannot be used. With that in mind, I increased the length from M to L. I'll post the full numbers later.
Curved waist line. As mentioned above, there are no outside seams. When it comes to the fabric up to this point, the overlap of the fabric is very stiff at the seam allowance, so if there is a hard seam, it will be difficult to drape. Since there is no seam allowance on the outside, you can enjoy the drape of Ferreira mohair from the side.
The back is a button pocket with double bead specifications.
And here's what I want you to see. As I mentioned earlier, this fabric has a weight of 581g, so it is thick. That's why it's easy to create thick seam allowances, and it's a fabric that requires a lot of skill to sew beautifully. However, the overlapping parts of the fabric at the waist seams are also carefully sewn so that they are as flat as possible.
If someone with skill doesn't sew it, it will quickly become a mess. Even with cotton chino pants, there are quite a lot of pants that have a lot of overlapping fabrics that collapse here. There are quite a few cases that have been overlooked. But these pants have none of that. Although it looks simple, it is full of detailed techniques.
The belt loop is also Yamauchi specification super polite belt loop. It is a loop that is carefully and carefully sewn without using a belt loop sewing machine that can be made quickly, or even using a tool called a trumpet attached to the sewing machine for belt loops. The installation is amazing.
The upper part of the belt loop is folded in three, and the lower part is overlocked on the edge of the fabric. oh yeah. As I remembered from "overlock", the edges of the fabric of all parts of the clothes this time are "overlock" processed. Of course, everything on the back that you can't see once the clothes are complete. Dangerous. amazing. How much effort are you taking? It's a story, but anyway, anyway, finely and carefully sewing. It is designed in pursuit of the "sewing level" of the Yamauchi brand.
By doing so, it will definitely lead to the clothes lasting longer, and the appearance of the finished product will change greatly. That is how Yamauchi makes clothes.
So, I tried to take a picture of the back of the belt loop, but it didn't show up at all. Lol so look at the real thing. Because it shows that even one belt loop is very polite.
Single specification. Actually, in the original plan, I was going to make it a double. However, a problem occurred. Ferreira Mohair was too repulsive to double. smile
I've never heard of such fabric. The reason is simple. At first, even if you can iron it down and double it, the hem will eventually explode due to multiple layers of fabric. Lol Space-level repulsive force. So I changed to single. But I don't think it's bad at all.
And back. These pants are not lined.
The reason is that we want you to feel the texture of Ferreira mohair on your bare skin. And I don't want to get in the way of the drape at all. I think you can understand by now, but there is no tingling at all. It's no longer in that dimension. When I come here. Experience the very comfortable texture of the fibers and the unique world of this double weave fabric. Because it makes me laugh. It's like a "goza", but it's super superb. smile
As a characteristic detail on the back of the pants, this large waist facing. this,,,
Do you understand? ?
It comes with a "return of return". In other words, the lining is lined. This is also Mr. Yamauchi's unique design.
By doing this, the sense of security around the waist when wearing pants is greatly improved. In addition to that, it is also a part that is subject to load, so the durability is also improved. However, it is a part that takes a lot of work, and in that case there will be a lot of overlap of the fabric. It is made possible by high-dimensional sewing technology.
The end paper of this width is marked with "end paper of the end paper".
This is a photo of the back "back of the back". Surprising sewing specifications that you have never seen before. A technique to handle the facing inside by folding the corner inside so that the edge of the fabric does not come out. I often come up with such specifications.
This is all written in the sewing specifications written by Mr. Yamauchi. It's the most detailed sewing specification in the world. All of them will be displayed in the store at the time of release.
And this is the back of the fabric. If you have these pants in your hand, please enjoy the direct contact of this fabric with your skin. Because it feels so good. And finally,,
Yamauchi × CASANOVA&CO × Kuzuri Keori Industry
Ferreira Mohair Coat
Mixing rate _ Ferreira Mohair 100%
Fabric structure _ double diagonal weave
this coat. If you know the Yamauchi brand, you may have seen it, but this is a coat that has existed in the brand's collection. We also sold coats in the same style as the custom-made "Yak Wool" by Keori Kuzuri, which was made in Yamauchi in the past.
This coat, like the jacket and trousers, has a pattern drawn by Mr. Yamauchi's own hand, and it fits perfectly with Kazuri Keori's worsted fabric, so I made this coat again this time.
However, the size is slightly different from the previous ones, and in the previous coat shape, S is equivalent to 3 sizes, M is equivalent to 4 sizes, and L is equivalent to 5 sizes. yes. This coat never existed in size 5. In other words, for size 5, Mr. Yamauchi once again made a new pattern. The amount of this coat, the resilience of the Ferreira mohair, the drape... "God's realm".
It's a special coat that looks like the fabric is flowing down.
Whether you open the front or put the collar up, you'll be super handsome.
Yamazashi zigzag stitching on the back of the collar. The sewing specifications of this coat were originally particularly complicated, but this is followed by the Ferreira Mohair as it is, and the top stitches and fine sewing that makes you doubt your eyes are generously poured into the outerwear.
Like the jacket and trousers, the cuffs and front are also equipped with genuine water buffalo buttons without gloss. The coat is fitted with large buttons according to the amount.
There is a lot of overlap of the fabric, and the difficult pockets are beautifully sewn. The coat is sewn by Mr. Koichi Nariyoshi, who does everything from cutting to sewing by himself. Mr. Narikiyo is also a friend of Mr. Abe and Mr. Kobayashi of IRENISA.
For each of the three types of clothes this time, four seamstresses sewed each piece from start to finish, but I can't name one of them on this blog. However, at a later date, I would like to introduce you to the seamstress.
A belt is attached to the back. Mr. Yamauchi doesn't like metal parts other than zippers, so the belt doesn't have a buckle. Therefore, when using the belt, it will be tied tightly.
However, it is okay to hang it as it is, and it is designed so that the belt will not fall off.
A belt is attached to the belt. A belt that tightens the body of the coat and a fixing belt that prevents the belt from falling off.
And this is the belt loop attached to the main body. This is abnormal. A loop that can be attached by folding a single long loop evenly and intricately. It masterfully handles this highly resilient fabric to form superhuman belt loops. Mr. Narikiyo's level is unbelievable. The large loop is designed to pass through the belt body, and the inner loop is designed to pass through the belt for fixing the belt.
tremendous detail. You can see that the work is very meticulous.
The back has a switch at the center of the back.
And large pleats on the hem. It seems that it took a lot of work for Mr. Narikiyo to say this.
Reinforcement from the sewing of the upper back center to the end of the pleats. Of course, the sewing specifications on the front, but the sewing specifications on the back also change greatly. There is a lot of technique here as well. I think sewing at this level is an area that only people with a limited level can reach.
And back. The specification behind this is already good.
The back is a half back specification.
big return. what's going on
Here, too, there is a return of return. And on the surface.
And the chest pocket on the back of this double bead. Button loop. All Ferreira Mohair. Huh, this fabric can't be sewn normally. The details, especially, are beyond my imagination.
It takes a lot of time to be able to sew it at this level, but I can really feel how much you have been involved in sewing this dress.
back hem. It works well here too. By taking the large facing on the outer material, the profound feeling when worn is increased anyway. This is unique to the coat.
However, if the hem of the end paper is sewn on, it will be stiff. Therefore, the hem is not sewn. However, if the hem is not fastened, gravity will cause the end paper to fall down. It also loses its shape and loses the beauty of its form. In order to resolve it
The hem is attached with thread loops. Moreover, the facing is stopped at a higher position than the outer material. so that it cannot be seen from the table. This design is also very thoughtful. Not everyone can do such fine details.
Amazing collar back specifications. The moon waist parts that support the collar are so neatly fitted that it's disgusting.
Yabayaba super dangerous.
The way the back pleats fit is amazing.
The half lining is also sewn at this pitch.
The half-lined wool cupra lining has overlocked ends of the fabric at the seams, and is attached to the outer fabric with thread loops.
Reinforcement cores are also attached to the pocket openings. The lining, interlining, and stretch-preventing tape are all used in an unusually detailed manner in the making of ordinary clothes. I would like you to see this time whether there is.
It is all written in the "sewing specifications" designed by Mr. Yamauchi. Even in Japan, there are very few engineers who can create a design that is too detailed, but the seamstresses who realize it with super-level quality. Fabric, design and sewing. I would appreciate it if you could experience it for the customers who can see it in any aspect. I think that the clothes that you can really get overwhelmed are made.
This kind of thing just doesn't happen often or easily anymore. That's why the people who were involved in the making of this clothing are able to face each other and give shape to it. I thought clothes didn't last forever, and they can't. Until now, I thought that, but I think that I was able to create clothes that have an infinitely high possibility.
Well, whether or not it really happens depends on the owner, and I would like to leave it to you. However, I hope that the person who obtains this item will be able to wear it for the rest of their life. Coming soon. It will be on sale at the store from 12:00 on Saturday, December 17th.
And on the day of the sale, the 17th (Sat), Mr. and Mrs. Yamauchi will be at the store all day. Mr. Yamauchi does not usually appear at the "Yamauchi Gallery Shop" and does not show his face. But I was able to come. If you can come to the store, I would appreciate it if you could look forward to it. I'll introduce you again. Continue. . .