It had already started at the store just a little while ago, but I couldn't talk about it because I was doing an event for Peter Oraum shoes.
this coat.
2nd dress as shown in the photo above.
A coat that will be the 1th place.
Yamauchi.
Yamauchi
3way trench coat
outer material _ cotton 65%, linen 35%
liner material _ nomulesing wool SP120'S 100%
color _ black × black
size_2,3
price_￥230,000-(without tax)
An outer trench coat made of cotton and linen, which has an unusually high bounce, and an inner trench coat made of ultra-high-quality wool.
By combining these two pieces, it is a coat that gives off a superb quality that can never be erased no matter how worn out the clothes are.
As you can imagine, if you wear each separately, the outer trench coat will be spring.
Inner trench coat for fall. In winter by docking.
That's what it means.
Well, I'll introduce it because the level is unbelievable.
As you can see from the photo, the inner coat, no mulesing wool, is exposed on the collar and cuffs when combined.
This is complete.
Front fitting is double.
The beauty of the shoulder line when worn and the outline of the arms that fall down.
It's not bad at all, and it has a shape that gives you a sense of strength peculiar to men in its delicacy.
I think that everyone who likes this kind of clothes will like it.
The two types of fabrics intersect with each other, so even though it's the same black coloring, it looks completely different.
Outerwear with firmness, lightness and luster of cotton and linen.
Softness and beautiful drape, liner that shines from the depths of wool fibers.
This is an overwhelmingly high position in terms of clothing, fiber level, and material level.
And both of them are sewn with Yamauchi's transcendent quality.
I think it's the 30th stitch.
This feeling.
It is sewn with thick thread.
Mr. Yamauchi likes to sew with this thickness of 30, so the stitchwork looks more prominent.
In terms of outerwear, No. 30 is not particularly different, but it is the number of needle movements and precision.
That tells the Yamauchi quality.
Due to the characteristics of outerwear, the thickness of the fabric is also visible, and it will inevitably become structural, so more techniques are required.
Even if you try to sew normally.
However, to put it simply, it's a high degree of perfection that doesn't make you feel like you're sewing an outerwear.
It's a shirt. shirt.
For example.
This is the back side.
Since it is in a docked state, what you can see in this photo is the finish on the back side of the wool liner.
Using super 120 raw no mulesing wool fiber, it is woven with a slightly thicker thread.
In other words, the raw material is thin.
The raw material fibers are very thin, but nowadays there are clothes with 140, 160, and 180 that only pursue that number, but I chose 120 for this because of its aptitude.
Just because it's thin doesn't mean it's good.
It is a raw material that was derived when we considered the time when it was completed as a dress as one goal, and calculated backwards what the ideal look would be like at that goal.
Well, it's a pretty thin fiber.
Then it is spun into a thick thread.
As a result, a lot of thin, long, supple, and glossy fibers are used in one thread, and it does not become too thick, but because it is made of thick thread, it does not feel heavy and feels comfortable. However, you can feel the beautiful drape and the high quality of the fabric to the maximum.
If you make thin threads from thin raw materials and weave the fabric, the fabric will be thin as it is, so in order to create a certain thickness, this coat is spun into thick threads.
If you use a thick fiber as the raw material, it will no longer be a different product.
Like tweed in England.
By the way, the lining on the back is unlined, and the area of the lining is as small as possible, so you can experience this fabric even more than the full lining.
However, it doesn't give the usual impression of "I'm wearing wool." This is because it has a very solid construction.
Of course, the built-in items such as the interlining that are originally necessary for clothes, but even with this kind of fabric, it is not a simple setting at all.
Well, if you look at the picture, I think you can guess what it is.
It is a structure that fastens with a button when two layers are stacked.
The tab on the right is a tab attached to the outer, but it has a function to fasten the button inside the liner when combined.
Also, it's pretty hard to see in the picture, but do you see it?
There are also buttons on the back of the cuffs.
This is 3 sleeves each on the left and right.
Looking back, cuffs, and the back of the neck.
All set to fasten with genuine water buffalo buttons.
This is the neck button.
The back of the collar has stitchwork that also functions to maintain its shape.
Liner after removal.
It's 100% wool, but it's completely different from the typical wool coat.
cashmere touch.
While maintaining the durability of wool fibers, the design, weaving, and finishing methods have been raised to the same quality as a 100% cashmere coat.
Well, I explained a little bit earlier, so I think you can imagine what it's like with just this liner.
Appearance, texture, heat retention, all are transcendence superhuman level.
This fine and careful sewing that joins it.
Yamauchi is probably the only one with this quality of fabric and sewing level for a coat.
Of course, the important durability is also provided as a result.
Genuine buffalo button for docking attached to the back of the liner.
please look.
This upright button.
It's hand-attached and wrapped around the neck, and it's firmly attached, so the button stands out so much that it makes me laugh.
I've never seen a button pop up like this.
The button is floating, but it doesn't wobble at all.
This allows smooth attachment to the outer.
Three-dimensional sleeves with two sleeves and a terrible drape that appears on the back.
The cuffs here are set to be folded.
Also, two belts are included with each fabric.
I wonder if it's okay to use them in conjunction with each other.
Well, the belt alone has amazing specifications, so please let me know if you like it.
Even though it is a liner, it also has a stitch on the back of the upper collar and a stitch on the moon waist.
It's too small to see in the photo, though.
Well, if you put them side by side like this, I think you can understand the high quality of this 3way trench coat at once.
The left is a no-mulesing wool liner trench coat.
Outer trench coat of cotton linen on the right.
However, this outerwear and liner are almost as good as the construction, but due to the characteristics of the fabric, the cotton linen outerwear is better.
This is a half back specification.
There are two pockets on both sides of the cover, a zipper type and a button type.
And the tab used to combine the liner on the right side of the photo can be fastened with a button so that when the liner is removed, it will not be cluttered.
Yamauchi-san hates meaningless details and imperfections, so he is consistent and thorough, and pays close attention to detail.
So of course it's reflected in the price, but I think that these kinds of clothes should be properly evaluated in this day and age.
Ultra beautiful return.
The stitches stand out even more because of the firmness and luster of the fabric.
The amazing stitching is visible in a large number of dots.
Back center vent closure. and co-fabric belt.
This is the pocket opening.
This is dangerous.
Double stitching on the stressed areas of the pocket.
Perfectly accurate. I'm numb.
oh yeah. In the first place, Yamauchi's clothes are almost non-existent.
It's the backstitch.
This is to prevent unraveling at the beginning and end of sewing.
The reason is that if you backstitch the sewing thread, only a part of it will harden, and the appearance will look different from Mr. Yamauchi's ideal.
However, I think there are none other than Yamauchi.
Because I have to backstitch normally.
This is what makes Yamauchi so beautiful.
So, I haven't talked much about the fabric of this outer trench coat, but it's crazy. This too.
I'm sure there are people who love this sort of thing.
Japan's limit, ultra-strong twisted yarn.
Earlier, I was talking about various fabrics such as firmness and luster, but this is a fabric that has been created with an endless amount of work without any surface treatment.
First, despite being made of cotton and linen, there is almost no fluff.
This is done carefully and patiently at the stage of yarn, and the fluff of the yarn is burnt off.
In general, after weaving, the surface of the fabric is specially processed to reduce fluff, but this involves carefully removing fluff at an earlier stage.
That's why the beauty of each thread is different.
But that's not what I want to say.
Super strong twist.
This is important.
very very important.
This is probably the most important thing to remember today.
There are usually 3 stages to the thread.
・Sweet twist (Amayori), weak twist (Jakunen)
・Normal twist
・Kyonen There are these three types.
・Soft twist
I wonder if sweet twist is used for knit sweaters.
There's a lot of fuzz, isn't there a sweater? That's because the twisting of the thread is weak.
But it makes it fluffier and full of air.
・Normal twist
It's normal.
・Strong twist
I think that the strong twist is sometimes seen when advocating the quality of the fabric.
Strong twist gives the fabric a smooth surface.
Easy to understand, Wool.
Wool is used in everything from sweaters to suits. Simply put, even with the same raw material, you can make two completely different things depending on whether the yarn is twisted loosely or strongly.
Sweetly twisted into a sweater.
Tightly twisted for a suit.
Like.
Well, putting this information aside, it is usually said that a hard twist is about 1200 twists.
It is a considerable number because it is twisted 1200 times.
You can't twist it 1200 times when squeezing a rag.
However, this is the state we arrived at.
It seems that it is a limit number in Japan.
It can not be twisted more strongly than this.
Ultra-strong twisted yarn.
2000 times twisted yarn.
Oh, it's dangerous.
This is dangerous.
It's amazing.
I don't think it's a pin, so please take a look at the real thing.
Because the fabric surface is so beautiful that it is impossible.
But if you are reading this blog, please do.
The world of ultra-strong twist with a microscope.
yes. It's already twisted so much that it's like a wire.
Also, the raw material is too good, and the stronger the twist, the more lustrous it is, so the microscope light is reflected.
So just feel it.
But it's not true that I've been twisted so far.
great fabric.
Strength, smooth beauty, firmness, familiarity with the body.
A fabric that makes you look forward to wearing it and feels a tremendous potential.
This is a specialty world that only the owner can experience.
It's good to wear with the attached belt tied up, and since it's only this coat, it's enough just to put it on.
Price is price, but if you like it, you'll understand.
No way.
I think that the coat has a special existence even among clothes.
A coat with plenty of Yamauchi's clothes making.
Take a look.