I am happy to see that there are more people reading this blog than I thought. The other day, in the trench coat blog, I dared to use the word number 2, but everyone recognized whether it was good or bad, but it does not mean "second".
It is in the construction of the coat I have seen so far.
And the words I put aside for this dress that I will introduce today.
No. 1 among the coats I have encountered so far.
It's not about design or taste, so please keep that in mind.
However, I think there are all kinds of clothes in the world, but I have never seen a coat that is so "crafted".
A coat that was generously poured into making clothes for the "Yamauchi" brand. 3way military coat.
The trench coat that I talked about the other day is also 3way.
One + one is one. This is also the same.
By the way, the 3way trench coat was sold out.
Today's 3way military coat. I have introduced various clothes on this blog so far, but it is extremely difficult to cover all the details on this blog. Impossible. If I try to write them all, I won't be able to go home, so I'll stop writing them all.
This is a complete state with two docked.
It's a coat that makes you bite your lips when you wear it, so I bite it.
Due to the lighting in the photo, the color looks subtle, but the actual khaki is almost black.
Disassembly. This is a so-called liner.
Wearing alone would be suitable for autumn and winter.
As for the fabric, this coat uses the same liner and outerwear.
Original fabric representing Yamauchi. High density double weave cotton.
The unique unevenness that spreads over the entire surface, the fold-like wrinkles that appear everywhere, and the dry texture are very distinctive.
It's a very deep fabric.
Just by looking at this fabric, I think you can get a sense of how much work goes into it.
A fabric that looks rough when you look at it like this.
And it is sewn like a high-quality, well-tailored dress shirt to assemble it.
I can't believe my eyes. It's a dot. point. Stitch. Even though it's an outerwear.
This is the lining of this liner.
86% cotton, 14% yak wool boa.
From the tip of the hood to the hem.
It is not placed on the sleeve lining to prevent slippage, and instead the sleeve lining is equipped with a thin padding.
This boa is pile from Imabari.
It's a unique blend of 86 and 14, but this gives you a lot of warmth.
And the boa is dyed with Shodoshima olives. A touch full of splendid hue and gentleness is alive and well.
The inner pockets with double bead specifications are placed on the left and right.
The finish of the buttonhole is also fine and amazing.
The hood has a complicated and three-dimensional shape that makes you wonder how many pieces it is made of.
Of course, the sleeves are three-dimensional two-piece sleeves. and,
Ribs are placed on the cuffs. This rib is an astonishing part called "Yamauchi rib".
The grooves of the ribs are stitched one by one.
Normally, it's common to change the cuffs with wool or acrylic ribs, but Mr. Yamauchi doesn't like that.
The outer material is 100% cotton, but it is not allowed to have ribs made of different materials.
So, put the fabric that matches the outer fabric on the ribs, and stitch each groove.
An endlessly daunting task.
However, it has great benefits for those who wear it.
First, it feels much better on the skin.
And I wonder if you can say that the ribs are standing.
It's very durable, and it doesn't fit in the frame of just one part of clothes.
The liner already has a tremendous atmosphere.
"Yamauchi" designer, Mr. Yamauchi.
It's been a long time coming.
Mr. Yamauchi sews items that require particularly fine hands in his collection.
Outerwear that symbolizes the season is often sewn.
This is commonly known as outerwear.
Outerwear is best worn alone in spring and autumn.
If you combine the liner and outerwear, it is suitable for midwinter.
It looks military because it has the name Military Coat.
As I mentioned earlier, the same fabric is used for the outer and liner. High-density double weave cotton that symbolizes Yamauchi. Four pockets with flaps on the front.
Just this flap pocket.
It's completely different from normal. beyond the realm of imagination.
Normally, flap pockets are made of two pieces of fabric, and the button holes are often punched open. Or hit the dot button (snap button).
However, this is made with a total of 4 pieces of fabric so that the buttons are not exposed on the front.
The sewing of the flap pocket is also a level that doubts the eyes.
This stitching pitch extends to the parts that cannot be seen unless turned over.
A myriad of dots running along the edges of the fabric, frighteningly.
What's more, if you hold the actual material in your hand, you'll understand that it's hard because of its high density.
For the wearer, it is fun to use ultra-heavy to make it softer, but when sewing, it is extremely difficult to sew.
It's a divine skill to finish it at this level to the point where you can't see it.
Although it is an outer, the structure is like this.
The Excela zipper and this water buffalo button are parallel to the front.
The button is large, and the shiny water buffalo is hand-made and stands out from the fabric.
This outer,,, The inside is also amazing.
This is the inside of the right body.
The black round thing that looks small is the water buffalo power button that supports the water buffalo button mentioned earlier. I'm no longer an idiot.
The vertical buttonhole next to it is a hole for attaching the liner.
In the first place, the liner had a button-open front.
It is used when the button is directly docked with the outer.
In general, clothes that have both a liner and an outerwear like this tend to have a lot of zippers and buttons that are used only for docking.
However, I don't think you'll find many other outerwear with this structure that makes sense whether you wear it as a single piece or as a combination of two pieces.
In the first place, I wonder if the pattern design to make both of them work has surpassed humans. Mr. Yamauchi.
This is the inside of the left body.
From the right, the slash buttonhole, the Excela fastener (reverse opening), and the mysterious part.
Buttonholes and zippers for opening and closing outerwear. the one to the left of it. . This is for attaching the liner.
This is what happens when you turn over.
This button is attached to the buttonhole of the liner for docking.
Of course, this water buffalo is handmade.
Furthermore, the vertical buttonhole located on the left.
This is to store the button for attaching the liner when removing the liner and wearing the outerwear alone. Deep emotion. I didn't think there was such a caring specification.
Keep it like this.
This complexity is already very difficult to understand.
That's why I'm explaining.
There is still
The drawcord on the hood is thermo-compressed instead of being processed with metal tips.
In order to eliminate the sense of incompatibility with clothes, it is said that it was made as unassuming as possible.
cuff. It's a natural two-piece sleeve, and anyway, it's a cuff with a lot of information.
A straight line.
It is finished with a well-balanced sharp angle.
When you turn it over, you will find a polite and polite frame tailoring in such a place.
The black fabric on the back is the lining.
A thin fabric is applied with full lining specifications.
Wrinkles that appear to be broken in some places on uneven, dry fabric.
This is the same for the silk shirts that were first sold in 2020, but it seems that they will be processed into a tube using a special dyeing method. The wrinkles carved by it.
And the unevenness that appears on the surface of this fabric is due to double weaving.
The texture of the surface is different from the texture of its back.
When it comes into contact with high temperatures, the shrinkage ratio is different, and the unevenness appears on the surface of the fabric due to the difference. I think it's a very deep fabric that doesn't feel superficially frivolous.
Just by looking at this, I can't help but imagine the excellence that will come after wearing it for a long time.
The potential of this fabric beyond that.
There is a lot of room for growth from here.
depth of fabric
And an unusually complicated structure.
In general, the court is constructed in a fairly structural manner, and the total number of parts is said to be about 30 to 40 parts. However, this 3way military coat has 97 parts.
The number of parts is immeasurable, and each one is finished at this level. I feel that Mr. Yamauchi, the designer, is the most skillful man involved in sewing in Japan, and even Mr. Yamauchi said that it took four days just to sew this coat.
This coat is shaped by it.
Of course, the price is also equivalent. It will be delivered in January, so I don't know if it will sell or not. Or rather, I put it aside for now. As a person who handles clothes and as a shop, I feel that this coat should be handled, and I would be very happy if someone likes it.
However, the size expansion is only 3 pieces.
It's a very limited development, and I'm very aware of this period.
By the way, it arrived later than expected. However, if you have looked at the photos so far, I think you can feel that you can enjoy various places with this one coat.
I don't think it's just a frame of "clothes", and I would appreciate it if you could know that clothes to this extent exist.
This coat touched my heart, and I'd be happy if even just one person could show up in the same way.
Or rather, it's a start after you get this, and I think it would be nice if you could keep up with it in your long life with clothes. I haven't been able to fully introduce it in this blog yet, and I think there are many things that you can understand by actually looking at the real thing.
If you like extra things, take a look.