The other day, I introduced Yamauchi's shirt with a lining that was processed with salt shrinkage, and this time it's a single layer version.
The shape is also different.
The shirt I introduced before is currently only in stock in size 5, which is the largest size, but this is the first shirt made by the brand using kasuri threads.
"Kasuri" is a very tasteful Japanese fabric that is used in Japanese clothes. Normal.
Mr. Yamauchi of Yamauchi made it with Fukuda Orimono of Enshu (a cotton textile production area in Shizuoka Prefecture). Japanese fabric.
This is great fabric. If you like it, I think you like it.
This is the shirt that uses it.
Yamauchi salt-condensed cotton kasuri grid, semi-long shirt (with feather collar)
color _ KASURI RED
this. As the name suggests, this long shirt is relatively rare in Yamauchi.
As you can see from the photo, the fabric has a sharp collar and a kasuri check on the entire surface.
Also, the hem is round in the front and square in the back.
At the back there is no back yoke that shirts usually have.
Hem taken from the front.
Round front. Square back.
I said it before.
And then this fabric.
All of them are 100% cotton, but the white fabric on the ground has a fine count that is never used in kasuri fabrics, and it does not fluff up. A fairly clear fabric that burns off even the slightest amount of fluff.
The thin, fluff-free, ultra-transparent thread is hammered into the fabric.
That's why it's a so-called high-density fabric, and I think you'll feel that it's quite tough the moment you touch it, but the thread itself is thin, so it's not a stiff fabric.
Then, using that as a base, I put in multiple types of red and black kasuri threads of different thicknesses.
So, at first glance, it is a check of how it looks like a digital print.
Because it's vivid and the nuances of the pattern are like a picture.
Well, it's actually a woven fabric, so it doesn't feel flat like it did digitally.
I think it's quite powerful.
It's that kind of fabric.
I really wanted to use a microscope, but I can't do it today because of my computer, so if you have a hand, rub your face on the fabric and see.
And this shirt.
The fabric is very high quality, but there are some details that I would like to introduce to everyone, so I will tell you about it today.
Because what Mr. Yamauchi of Yamauchi is doing really shows.
It's so detailed.
First, the collar.
Yamauchi's clothes are all asymmetrical.
This collar looks the same, but the right one is actually 1mm larger than the left one.
The reason is when all buttons are fastened.
When you button it up, the left side is up (front) and the right side is down (back).
In that case, visually, the front looks slightly larger and the back looks smaller.
Moreover, when you fasten all the front buttons, you have to think about how to wear it properly to some extent.
At that time, even though you are wearing it properly, if the size of the left and right collars looks misaligned, it will be ruined.
That's why, even though it's small, I change the size by 1mm so that the collar looks exactly the same size on the left and right.
Of course, the difference is 1mm, so even when the buttons are open and the collars are separated from each other, the size of the collars will not be visible.
And not just the collar, but also around it.
First button and second button.
Shirts have a characteristic float between the 1st and 2nd buttons, or a wrinkle-like slack.
The weight of the collar and base collar will crush the fabric.
In any case, it is unavoidable structurally that shirts have slack in this area.
However, Yamauchi's shirt is designed to eliminate the slackness of the fabric.
There are designs aimed at that in multiple places.
The hole of the first button that enters the base collar.
I think you can see the difference if you look at it compared to the shirt you have, but the angle of this buttonhole is not normal.
The theory is that the buttonhole at this point should be drilled parallel to the angle of the base collar.
However, Yamauchi's shirt is open at different angles on purpose.
By doing so, when the first button is fastened, the button does not move up and down in the hole, which prevents the fabric from sagging.
Such a thing.
Normally, the theory is that the hole for the first button is upwards to the right when viewed straight on.
In addition, the pattern of this base collar is also large and asymmetrical on the left and right, and when disassembled, it seems that the left side of the base collar is lifted.
Furthermore, this first button and second button.
Buttonholes to go along with it.
"Right front body" with buttons. The opening of the hole, "left front body".
The first and second distances are also different on the left and right.
The difference is 2mm.
Buttonhole opening, left front body.
The first and second buttonholes are 2mm shorter than the first and second buttonholes on the right front body.
This is to reduce the floating of the fabric on the left body.
However, even when worn with the buttons open, the difference is not unnatural.
Next is this hem.
"Front alignment" at the hem.
It is the hem part of this front fitting.
See pictures for clarity.
The left front hem protrudes slightly.
yes. The left front hem is 2mm longer than the right front hem.
This is because when the left and right sides overlap, if the dimensions are the same, there are cases where the right front body, which should not be seen overlapping, can be seen from below.
Despite the strict rule that men's clothing should be worn in the front left, it's awkward to see the hem in the front right.
Han clothes should be well made.
The appearance of Mr. Yamauchi's way of thinking.
The collar is 1mm larger on the right side, and the buttonholes are narrower by 2mm on the left side.
And the angle of the buttonhole that can be opened there on the left collar with a raised shape.
In addition, the hem is 2mm longer on the left side.
13 years as a brand? I wonder if it was. Mr. Yamauchi's career in making clothes is much longer.
As a brand, we've been making clothes for that long, but we're always trying to improve in small numbers.
Mr. Yamauchi from Yamauchi.
In today's domestic clothing market, there are a lot of young brands, so there are many things that can't be pursued to that extent, or rather, there are many things that can't be pursued, but Mr. Yamauchi thinks that I'm on a completely different level.
Well, it's a completely different story, but for clothing brands, the time of "five years" is one of the bottlenecks.
This is because, in a world where consumption is intense, it is said that if you keep it for 5 years, the clothing brand will be good, or you can see the future after 5 years.
Among them, it seems that some of the brands that suddenly hear their names and suddenly become popular are aiming to operate the brand for "only five years".
In such a fashion market, it becomes difficult to accumulate experience and skills.
Well, at first glance, there are even brands that "appear to be obsessed".
There are actually many aspects. back to the topic,
"Yamauchi" can sometimes be perceived as making clothes that are "too stiff", but the main premise is "to wear and use".
Wear it, wash it, dry it and put it back on.
If you keep doing this over and over again, the clothes themselves will gradually wrinkle, the fabric will soften a little, and changes will inevitably occur.
That's why Mr. Yamauchi of Yamauchi makes the product very carefully.
We make clothes that reflect the techniques that have been honed and polished, and we want those who have them to wear them a lot.
That kind of durability is something I intentionally make when I make clothes like this.
It's 1mm, 2mm, left and right asymmetrical, and if you don't say that, no one will notice, but that's Yamauchi's quality.
Also, even if you change the dimension by about 1mm at the pattern design stage, if someone without the skill sews it, the difference of 1mm will disappear in an instant and it will not exist.
That is why it is necessary to have a skilled seamstress sew it.
It's not an artisan brand by any means, but I think it's meticulously crafted and focused on making clothes.
Mr. Yamauchi from Yamauchi.
Well, I like wearing Yamauchi's clothes like that, using them, washing them, and messing them up.
I wonder if worn-out Yamauchi clothes will shine the most after the hardness of the new ones has been removed.
As the length is long, there are slits on the sides.
The back of this slit part.
look. the fabric is gone.
The tri-folding of the hem is integrated into the side seams of the body.
I think there are various slit treatments, but I think this one is pretty good.
The three folds on the back of the hem are also beautifully sewn.
Angled cuffs with sword rags.
And the processing of this sword rag back.
It's neatly folded into a triangle, and the edge of the fabric is exposed, but this is super good.
There are many ways to get the back of the sword rags, but Yamauchi's shirt is incredibly clean.
Also, in other Yamauchi shirts, there are many sword rags that use the switching of two sleeves, so this is a rare specification even among Yamauchi.
And this shirt.
It has a shoulder shape called "Z sleeve" that Mr. Yamauchi of Yamauchi devised.
When looking at Yamauchi's clothes from the front, dropped shoulders are not acceptable, so the shoulder line on the front should be just shoulders.
However, the shoulder line on the back of the body is slightly off because of the comfortable size balance.
That's why I called it a "Z sleeve" by connecting the arm switching and the seams on each shoulder line.
Here is a picture of the back of the Z sleeve.
The rounded shoulders are made up of several layers of fabric, but they are stitched together with extremely fine stitching without difficulty.
Sewing everywhere is folded down sewing, but anyway fine needle movement.
In the last few years, I think that sewing at this level is gradually disappearing from the clothing market, which has pursued fine pitches for production reasons.
A few years ago, there were clothes from various brands with very fine needle movements, but I think there are fewer brands that can continue to do that. when you look at the clothes
At least in our shop, Yamauchi is number one among the brands we carry, just looking at the fineness of the needle movement.
By the way, the 2nd place is probably Araki Yuu. It's not factory made, it's sewn by myself.
It's been a few years since the corona situation, but it's not easy to make clothes.
So, what Mr. Yamauchi does is to tie down on-site techniques, and I think he has a very strong element of "fashion, but not fashion".
And the sewing this time, as usual, is Fashion Izumi from Saitama Prefecture.
After all, Fashion Izumi's sewing technique is wonderful.
Technology, of course, but that's not all.
With this kind of needle movement, the sewing machine won't advance at all, but I'm doing it properly.
A sewing factory that has that kind of feeling.
It's detailed and not easy to make, so it takes time and trouble to make it, but because everyone is making it with responsibility and confidence, I think there are various benefits for those who wear it.
It may be difficult in the middle of summer, but please think about it from a long-term perspective.