Recently, we were talking about wallets, but today is "Yamauchi".
It is a series of camouflage that is too powerful and beautiful.
shirt jacket and pants.
Aichi prefecture where Yamauchi is based.
A splendid camouflage made in the Arimatsu region.
The Arimatsu region is said to have supported Japanese kimono since ancient times, and a tie-dyeing technique called the traditional craft "Arimatsu Shibori" still exists today.
The dyeing technique called tie-dyeing in Japan dates back to the Nara period, and it seems that it started from there, but it seems that the Arimatsu region has been supporting it.
Located there, "Kuno Dye Factory" was founded 110 years ago in 1912, the first year of the Taisho era.
This tie-dye dyeing factory created Yamauchi's camouflage this time.
This is truly a craft.
I have never seen camouflage like this before.
Yamauchi salt shrink processing super strong twist cotton Hakomura shirt jacket
material _ COTTON 100% (ZZ ultra-strong twist)
Yamauchi salt shrink processing super strong twist cotton Hakomura cargo pants
material _ COTTON 100% (ZZ ultra-strong twist)
Earlier, I talked about dyeing at Kuno Dye Factory, but before that, I would like to talk about this fabric.
A super strong touch that you wouldn't expect from 100% cotton.
ZZ super strong twist.
yes. The weaver who weaves this fabric is "Kaneta Orimono".
In our store, it is a familiar weaver of the supermarket.
Kaneta is located in Kakegawa City, Shizuoka Prefecture.
It's the same with AUBETT, and there are brands that I can't name because I haven't obtained permission, but most of the clothes I write about in this blog are woven by Kaneta.
Even if you look around the world, you can't help but feel that Kaneta-san is the only company that can weave cotton fabric.
that's the base.
That's why this series can compete even if it's plain.
When I casually touched it, the texture of the fabric made me think twice.
It's 100% cotton, but it doesn't fluff, it's strong, it's strong, it's twisted, it has a very high resilience, and it's extremely smooth to the touch.
And it feels like it's sliding down on your skin.
Super luxury fabric.
It's a fabric that feels like "THE Kaneta Textile", where Kaneta's greatest specialty is expressed.
It's strong, it's comfortable to wear, and I'm sure there will be people who will be impressed with just this base fabric.
Then, the fabric is sent to the Kuno dyeing factory of "Arimatsu Shibori".
This Kuno Dye Factory is said to be a very creative factory.
In Okayama Prefecture, Bizen ware seems to be the same, but in areas with a long history, there are many people who try too hard to protect the tradition and have a conservative way of thinking.
I don't think it's a bad thing at all, but I think it's necessary to change everything.
If you get too attached to things like, "This was the way it used to be," or "The way we used to do it," then truly wonderful traditions and techniques will inevitably be buried in an age of information overload. Because I think
Truly wonderful technology should be properly evaluated and inherited by the world.
So, for that reason, I think it's good for those who have such skills to try things that they haven't done before, instead of just sticking to the feeling of "tradition, tradition". I don't think so
I mean, even if they try something like that and it doesn't turn out to be successful, their skills won't change.
It doesn't change that we have technology that other people in the world can't catch up with.
I think I'm involved with people in the production area and all kinds of people.
Well, let's leave it at that.
This Kuno Dyeing Factory is said to be the first processing factory to apply tie-dyeing techniques to "clothes".
As mentioned above, the technique of tie-dyeing is used for "Japanese clothing".
It seems that the technique was applied to other than Japanese clothes for the first time.
Did you say it was Issey Miyake? Certainly.
A very creative processing plant that tries new things even in a historical dyeing factory.
And that way of thinking is reflected in this Yamauchi series.
Originally, such a dyeing technique called "tie-dyeing" is performed after the clothes are completed, in other words, at the stage of "product processing".
For example, there are tie-dyed T-shirts.
That kind of thing is applied to ready-made T-shirts.
In such a way, "tie-dyeing" is also done as "product processing" if it is normal.
However, I heard that Kuno Dyeing Factory and one other company in Japan are the only companies that apply tie-dyeing to clothes.
And this time Yamauchi's series. Mr. Yamauchi from Yamauchi never applies "post-processing" to his clothes.
That's why I'm doing tie-dyeing with "fabric", which greatly changes the concept of tie-dyeing. I think it is unique to Kuno Dye Factory, who is trying to create a new "tie-dye" that did not exist in the traditional.
However, at the moment, Yamauchi is the only one who uses this "fabric" for tie-dyeing.
This is because compared to processing products, there are two or three more processes, and it takes a lot of time and effort.
So it seems no one is doing it.
Yamauchi shakes off.
That kind of.
But I think that's why clothes of that level are completed.
And this tie-dye series.
As the name of the clothes suggests, we use a technique called "Hakomura Shibori" in tie-dyeing.
There are many types of tie-dyeing. one of them.
Hakomura Shibori is a technique in which the fabric is placed in a not-too-large box-shaped object and discharged.
Originally, clothes are put in a box and processed, but as mentioned above, Yamauchi processes with "fabric".
For those of you who know the background of clothing production, you can imagine that it takes a lot of effort.
About 4m. Cut each piece of fabric, roll it up, and put it in the box.
The fabric this time is a khaki ZZ super-strong twist fabric woven by Kaneta.
Add a discharge agent to it.
The khaki color comes off when the discharging agent is applied.
However, the point here is that all colors come out evenly. That's not what it means.
Hakomura Shibori is a type of uneven dyeing.
By spraying the discharge liquid from above, it is randomly applied, and the places where the discharge liquid is directly sprayed are well washed out, the places where it is not sprayed are faintly, and the places where it is not sprayed at all are not colored at all. No change.
By doing so, it is possible to create uneven discharge printing.
Just, but this time's fabric.
That is not all.
Yes, not only discharge printing, but also coloring on top of it.
After discharging, wash off the black, and then the green.
Discharge printing once, coloring twice.
And so the camouflage pattern was born.
Furthermore, since it is put on and taken off one by one, it is hand-cut one by one after that.
Usually, clothes are made by stacking dozens of fabrics and cutting them all at once by machine.
At the sewing factory where I used to work, the max was used to cut 36 pieces of denim fabric at once with an automatic cutting machine.
But this is hand-cut one by one.
The reason for this is that the fabric is unevenly dyed, so each sheet of 4m fabric has unevenness.
That's why, while confirming which parts can be used and which parts can't be used, you have to place the pattern and cut it.
This is harder than you can imagine.
But with that ball, the world's first camouflage that no one has ever seen before is created.
Camouflage that is different one by one.
All the camouflage I've seen so far has been printed, but this one goes through a completely different process.
As a result, the overwhelming force and depth of the fabric are not visible.
Let me introduce you to the details.
shirt jacket. Raglan sleeves on front shoulders.
The collar is slightly larger.
Box pocket on the chest.
and a waist pocket.
Because it is called a shirt jacket, the width of the endpaper is wide.
A distinctive feature is this collar.
It's a rare design when viewed from the front, but it looks like an open collar, and the base collar is irregularly pierced.
This is it.
Normally, this kind of style doesn't have a collar.
There is no base collar behind the collar.
Moon waist and zigzag stitch.
Collar back is completely jacket specification.
As a result, it can be done with such an open specification, but it also works wonderfully even if you fasten the button all the way to the top.
in this way.
The collar rises three-dimensionally and stands up.
Normally, with open-collar clothes, if you fasten the top button, there will be unnatural wrinkles around it, or the fabric will float.
However, this is a special design that can handle both.
Moreover, everything is asymmetrical at a level that no one notices. Yamauchi's clothes.
I've rarely seen this kind of construction outside of Yamauchi's clothes.
very well done
Rather than wearing an open collar, I think the best style is to simply fasten the first and second buttons and roll up the sleeves.
The size and shape of the collar is a style that you don't see very often these days, but this is very handsome.
It doesn't suit everyone, and I think a certain amount of masculinity is necessary, but if you like clothes with a strong atmosphere, if you can handle it well, I think a world of extreme danger awaits.
I really like that kind of thing, so the moment I tried it on, my brain was blown.
It's not like that with any clothes, but it's clothes that have tremendous power. this.
As you can see, there is no lining.
Directly experience the splendor of Kaneta's fabrics.
Each pocket has a black sack cloth.
Perfect stitching on the back cover.
Stunning straight lines.
The bag cloth of the pocket is sandwiched between the endpapers and fixed.
You don't have to worry about it falling apart.
A back yoke is attached to the back.
As for the shoulder structure, while the front has raglan sleeves, this side has a set-in shape.
And two sleeves.
The color changes depending on the parts, which is unique to this Hakomura.
Of course, no two colors are the same.
This is also something that has a craft side.
The back yoke is split type and split at the center.
And a center box pleat.
It is a specification in which shirt details and jacket details are interwoven.
As mentioned above, the strong moon waist and the stitch work on the back of the collar.
The sleeves have a sword rag opening and cuffs that use the switching of two sleeves.
Of course, there is unevenness in the fabric on both sleeves.
The button is a matte water buffalo horn.
This will be polished as you wear it, giving it a natural sheen.
I think it goes very well with the nuances of the fabric.
The overlap of the sword rags is the usual Yamauchi specification.
It's a deep match.
Well, it's better to roll it up and wear it.
Yamauchi's clothes have a stiff mood when new, but it's best to wear them loosely.
Then, a much higher level of aura is emitted than when it was brand new.
Wear and wash anyway. that's the best.
Well, this shirt jacket comes with washing NG.
However, I think that the latent potential of the clothes will be born more and more if you wash them.
It's already a tremendous aura that can't be hidden.
However, if you wash it, please do so at your own risk.
at your own risk. smile
Here, the washing indication has a hand wash mark.
So, it's already decided to wear it messy.
It's cargo pants, but it's not a bad feeling, it's really Yamauchi.
Cargo pants with tengu, elaborate processing on the back side of the original, Excela zipper, drawcord.
It comes with many things.
The rise is a deep design.
It's cargo pants, so it doesn't feel like slim pants.
There is no front tuck, but there are darts on each side.
When I put them on, I was so impressed that I had never worn cargo pants like this before.
It's because of the quality of fabric and sewing, but it felt incredibly elegant.
Well, I didn't take a picture of me wearing it.
But I think everyone likes it.
The shirt jacket is the same, but the cargo pants are also made with 30th stitching. Very beautiful.
And there are cargo pockets on the left and right.
Because it's cargo pants.
There are many kinds of cargo pants, but Yamauchi's cargo pockets are amazing.
It's hard to tell from the picture, but it's flapped so much that it's like how many pieces of fabric are overlapping.
Well, it's four.
I forgot to take an easy-to-understand picture, but the body of the pants is switched with multiple pieces of fabric.
This construction is unique to Yamauchi.
Two darts on the back.
and flap pockets.
Similarly, this flap is also designed with a large number of fabrics on the back, so that the buttons are not exposed and the shapes of the buttons on the front do not interfere with each other.
I put my hands in it and make it finely.
Cargo pants inevitably require more processes than other pants, but when Mr. Yamauchi of Yamauchi designs cargo pants, it's not overwhelming. smile
I think this is too hard to sew.
The shirt jacket and pants are both sewn by Fashion Izumi from Saitama Prefecture, and they are beautifully sewn. Every detail is sewn with the right sewing specifications for the right place.
The fabric is the same, but no matter how you look at it, you can imagine the length of time spent on this piece of clothing.
That's because the way you feel when you wear clothes that have been tampered with is completely different.
I think that kind of thing is very good.
There is a drawcord at the hem.
If this cord is not tied, it will be dragged to the ground, so it is best to tighten the hem moderately and tie it.
The tip of the cord is a thermo-compression rubber.
A feature of Yamauchi's clothing is that metal parts are not used for anything other than fasteners.
Mr. Yamauchi of Yamauchi thinks that metal parts are overstated, so he uses parts that are as inconspicuous as possible.
Finally the back.
As mentioned above, the processing of the back is so unbelievable that it is a cargo pant.
This is also carefully made to increase the durability of the clothes and extend the life of the clothes.
Thoughtful specifications for the wearer.
There are 7 stitches in this waistband lining alone.
can't believe it. smile
The cargo pants also have no lining, so you can really feel the touch of Kaneta's fabric.
As for pants, if you wear full-length pants even in the summer, it might be a good idea.
The fabric has a tremendous sense of security, but I think you can wear it comfortably without being hot.
Because it is powerful pants, it may be better in the summer.
The camouflage series is filled with the techniques of Kaneta Orimono, Kuno Dye Factory, and Fashion Izumi.
This is a "craft" created by Yamauchi.
I think that the world of this level in the current clothing industry is rare.
If you like it, please take a look.