I touched on it briefly before, but Yamauchi finally got together around this time.
Not all. Let me introduce two types of shirts and pants today.
Arimatsu salt shrink processed linen shirt
face material _ cotton 50%, linen 50%
lining material _ cotton 50%, cupro 50%
It's the most Yamauchi style of clothing, and I don't think anyone else can make the same.
The outer material has unique wrinkles and is fully lined.
Moreover, the piping on the back of the sleeves of the two sleeves.
It's an atelier in Nagoya.
Using the traditional craft dyeing technique of the Arimatsu area in Nagoya, or rather, it is a shirt that has been subjected to a salt-shrinking process that applies it.
Specifically, it is a salt-shrinking process by manual dip dyeing.
If you like clothes and do a lot of research, you may sometimes see nylon or cotton fabrics that have undergone a salt-shrinking process.
Salt shrinking strengthens the surface of the fabric and makes it firm and stiff to the touch. Common.
Therefore, it would be nice if you could think of it as just a salty condensed liquid on the surface.
Yamauchi's shirt is a big differentiator than the others.
Yamauchi salt shrinkage has clear advantages over spray salt shrinkage.
Because it is dip dyeing, it works directly on the inside of the fabric, the thread, and the fiber itself.
As a result, even if you continue to wear it for many years, it will not come off, and the texture of the fabric with shadows will last forever.
Also, the difference in shrinkage and coloring.
The fabric shrinks greatly due to the salt-shrinking process for each garment.
Considering the original amount of fabric, 2.5 of a typical shirt is used for the outer material alone.
Just the surface.
This shirt is fully lined, so if you consider the lining as well, simply thinking about it, the Arimatsu salt-shrunk linen shirt uses about 3.5 times the fabric of a normal shirt.
Well, it's not that it's amazing because it uses so much fabric, but it's just one process to complete this shirt.
However, since it shrinks well, the depth of the fabric and the owner-only wrinkles that are added by continuing to wear and washing repeatedly are also carved.
Also, it still has the characteristics of the salt-shrinking process, but the coloring I mentioned earlier.
In general, there are not many vegetable fibers such as cotton and linen with deep colors.
Animal fibers such as wool, animal hair, and silk always produce deeper colors.
The reason for this is the problem of the main ingredients of the raw materials. Animal fibers, like human beings, are composed of protein amino acids, so they tend to have deep colors.
So, it is difficult to give such depth of color to vegetable fibers such as cotton fabrics and linen, and it seems that Mr. Yamauchi and Mr. Yamauchi, who continue to pursue the quality of fabrics, have been struggling for many years.
However, the scenery changed after applying this salt-shrinking process.
By applying the salt shrinkage, it seems that the color has a lot more depth than before.
From there, Mr. Yamauchi continues to seek to create shades that can only be produced by salt-shrinking.
So this season, we have a unique color, gray khaki, which is rarely seen in other plant fibers.
All the buttons are handmade with 3mm genuine black pearl oysters.
Well, I've been writing about sewing for years and years in previous blogs and this blog, so I won't leave it out, but please rest assured this time as well.
Shirts beyond shirts.
Superb Yamauchi quality alive and well.
Compressed wool knit shirt
material_nomulesing wool SP140s 100%
color _ beige, black
This is the first appearance of the season.
This is also very well done.
Also, unlike the Arimatsu salt-shrinking linen shirt mentioned earlier, it is a product that overturns the concept of a shirt from a different direction.
As the name suggests, this is a knit.
In other words, knitted fabric.
There are two types of fabric.
・Textiles that are fabrics.
・A knitted fabric.
Woven or knitted These two types of fabrics exist, and generally T-shirts, cut-and-sews, sweaters, boxer shorts, socks, etc. are knitted (knitted).
On the other hand, shirts, pants, coats, trunks, etc. are textiles (fabrics).
So, while the Arimatsu salt-shrunk linen shirt mentioned earlier is a woven fabric, this is a knitted fabric.
So, after knitting, while checking the condition of the fabric, the fulling is repeated step by step.
Then, after fulling and cutting, Yamauchi's specialty is sewn with a unique fabric.
In terms of this fabric, unless you are a maniac about fabrics, you will not know that it is a knit.
I can't see the knitted fabric because the stitches are too tight.
However, the length is a little longer and the width of the body is more roomy, so it creates an amazing drape that cannot be produced with fabric.
This is unique to knitwear.
In terms of the thickness of the fabric, it is thick due to its characteristics.
It's unlined, but it's a shirt that works well even without a lining.
I think it will only be worn during the fall/winter season, but I think it will be worn as much as possible during the period when it can be worn.
It is especially suitable for those who often travel by car or who spend most of their time indoors.
It has a little room and is designed to look like a half coat like coveralls, so I think it's enough for winter if you wear a high-gauge sweater inside. (inside the room)
This is available in 2 colors.
The buttons also have different colors to match the atmosphere of the clothes.
The material is a horn button with a thick and heavy feeling.
However, Mr. Yamauchi doesn't want the buttons to be too strong, so he uses buttons that look familiar with his clothes.
Also, in terms of fiber, it is no mulesing wool.
In terms of the raw material fiber, it is thin and long, but when it is made into thread, it is made into a thick thread.
Normally, when it comes to this level of raw materials, the fabric is a little softer, but I think you can feel the thickness of this product.
Well, it's also compressed.
It feels moist against the skin and has a stretch that fits the body naturally, which is unique to knitted fabric.
Also, as I said earlier, the large, soft drape unique to knitted fabric is amazing.
Considering the appearance and feeling of wearing it, including such things, I think you can feel the gift of knitting SUPER 140'S.
Back of hem.
Back of cuff.
As for sewing, as I mentioned earlier, it is made with fabric.
Yamauchi's clothes are sewn with comfortable thread.
With that thick thread, double stitches are made with a fine pitch that looks like dots.
In addition, the split stitch is double stitched by ironing and beating the edge of the fabric.
Super cool. I'm going.
The double-stitched parts of this shirt are usually treated with overlocks if they are general clothes.
Compared to overlocking, which instantly finishes processing the edge of the fabric, it is a troublesome and difficult process, but the comfort and appearance are completely different.
Yamauchi pursues such a level of sewing as a brand, but the finish of the sewing also varies greatly depending on the type of clothes.
This knit shirt uses a lot of double stitching, and the smooth and beautiful luster of the fabric and strong stitching cross over.
On the other hand, the salt-shrunk linen shirt I mentioned earlier has a strong feel of the original fabric, so the stitches are almost invisible from the front.
Enjoy each type of combination of fabric and sewing.
No mulesing wool easy pants
material _ nomulesing wool SUPER120S
This is SUPER120's of no mulesing wool.
I think it's because the pants are more stressful than the tops.
Also, these pants are flannel fabric.
This is also made of wool with a cashmere touch, but I think anyone who sees it will think it's a high-quality pair of pants because of its luster and smoothness.
So, easy pants.
We don't carry many easy pants at our store, and we don't really have anything that appeals to us, but this is something else.
When you put them on, you don't think they're easy pants, but above all, the way the waistband is inserted is a national treasure.
Well, there may not be many people who tuck in easy pants, but with this one, you can tuck in your shirt.
The hem is a festival and the stitches are not exposed.
These pants are designed without outside seams.
It's such a beautiful fabric.
Because there are no side seams, you can see the drape from the side.
Usually, there is a seam between the front body and the back body.
So, in spite of that, the outline that tapers in a curve toward the hem with a single piece specification.
The back is single ball.
These pants have a half lining, or rather, a lining that extends up to the shin.
Originally, there is no need for a lining, and you can feel the texture directly against the skin without lining.
However, most of the normal lined pants have the lining up to below the knee, but Yamauchi extends it further down and uses a large amount of lining.
This is Mr. Yamauchi's consideration, but in order to support the lower body that moves more actively than the upper body, the lining is set to a length that does not interfere with the skin even when moving and does not get caught.
Compassionate pants with the wearer in mind.
Even though they are easy pants, you don't feel the slightest bit of laziness, so I think you can use them in a variety of ways.
Also, in Yamauchi, we have super-large 3-way military coats in stores, but I will introduce them later.
And here's the good news.
This time, it is very good that we have posted two types of shirts and pants at almost the same time on our online store, although until now we have only sold over-the-counter products.
Therefore, please take this opportunity to place your order. smile