Today, I would like to introduce "Tukir", the brand's second collection.
Tukir made his debut in the timing of the 21AW season.
Seya.'s undyed yak river coat, Seya.'s undyed golden silk short-sleeved shirt, and so on. shop.
It is the brand of the weaver. Tukir.
Even at the time of your debut, our store handled long shirts made of undyed cashmere wool and indigo-dyed silk threads that were left in the sun for two months to fade naturally.
There are sizes, but if anything, there isn't much distinction between men and women.
And for the first season collection, I made fabrics with the theme of "Japan".
This is my second collection.
The season is spring and summer.
The next theme is "India".
Mr. Takka has been visiting India for many years, aiming to create wonderful fabrics that are rooted in the land, and this is the season when he realized it.
It's a hot country. India.
The fabric unique to India is very good even in the hot and humid climate of Japan.
Indian fabric. "Kadi Cotton".
It is a collection that focuses very much on it.
However, it's not just a khadi, it's a khadi of a transcendent fabric that I've been crazy about every corner of my brain.
I was like, "Hey, I've never seen anything like this before." Not to mention my brain, my heart was shot through, and my heart was grabbed by an eagle, and I couldn't escape anymore.
That kind of level.
Khadi cotton is a fabric peculiar to India, where the highest temperature always exceeds 20 degrees even in a year.
Charkha is a fabric that is "hand-spun" using a spinning wheel and then "hand-woven".
Unlike machine spinning, the yarn has unevenness, but the feel of the yarn due to the bulge is exceptional.
And if you keep wearing it, the aspect of the khadi cotton will be further staged.
In the summer, if it's a top monokadi, it might be more comfortable than wearing short sleeves.
Because it is not exposed to direct sunlight.
Machine-spun and high-speed loom-woven cotton fabrics make up most of this world, but for hot fabrics, this is the strongest.
That's the series.
material _ Khadi cotton 100%
A pullover type long shirt with the name "day dress" that was also in the first season.
The shape of the collar is also quite different.
Tukir is designed by Mr. Seya from Seya.
I also make clothes with the theme of "Home Garment".
That's why the collection also includes long gowns called night gowns.
Isn't it a bit difficult to wear a gown?
As might be expected.
I want you to experience Tukir's crazy fabrics every day, so I only handle shirt-type items that I think can be worn casually.
The day dress is a long shirt with different front and back lengths.
I also wore this undyed cashmere day dress in size type 2 when I debuted in autumn and winter.
Type2 is a size that is okay for most men.
And this with the same fabric.
material _ Khadi cotton 100%
Appeared for the first time this time.
A summer pajama with a slightly shorter length and an open collar. Similar to the day dress mentioned earlier, this pullover type does not have a front opening.
The neck has one button and looks like a skipper shirt.
With a large pocket on the waist.
And these two.
India has Sri Lanka nearby, right?
Famous for tea.
Made in Sri Lanka, it is dyed using tea leaves after being drunk as tea.
It's unique to India.
Dyeing is classified as yarn dyeing because it is dyed at the thread stage.
Dyeing with thread so as not to damage the soft khadi cotton fabric.
Also, please wash and wear it.
It's an assumption.
When I go to an exhibition, I wash this fabric over and over again, and the colors naturally fade.
Khadi's fabric also becomes softer as you wash it, and on top of that, the tea-dyed fabric changes little by little.
Experience the change yourself.
That's the premise.
This tea dye also handles type 1 of size suitable for women only for summer pajama.
material _ Khadi cotton 100%
color _ beetroot dye
And one more thing. here.
A type dyed with a bright red root vegetable that is also included in the superfood called "beetroot".
This is also the same as before, hand-spun Khadi thread dyed to make it bright red.
This is a deep red at first, but it's a natural dye, so I expect it to fade with a lot of power when you wear it, sweat it, wipe it off, and wash it repeatedly.
I think a lot of people avoid red coloring, but the red tone is always a problem.
It's not that the color "red" is hard to wear. As a matter of fact.
Well, that's why I think that if you can see the actual product, you will be able to enter it smoothly. perhaps.
The fabric is soft, fluffy, light, and airy, but the colors are strong.
The depth does not disappear even if the color is washed repeatedly.
At first, it's a rich coloring, but it's best to wear it with the sleeves rolled up roughly.
With shorts or hot pants.
Take a look.
That's it for this Tukir collection lineup.
Will begin the main subject.
This time Tukir.
It bothered me a lot.
When I went to the exhibition, there was a fabric that instantly caught my eye.
Of course, "Cuddy Cotton" grabbed my heart.
Oh, and there was also an ultra-hyper-god, "overcoated" one.
The moment I saw it, "THE END".
When I saw the fabric, it was no good.
No, it's the other way around.
It was the beginning of something really good.
However, when I go on business trips, there are many brands that I carry, so I have a lot of plans.
I don't take it for granted that I have time to eat, and I always run alone when I'm on the move.
Wearing clothes that are a little flashier than those around him, he is a bald man with a beard sticking out of his mask, yelling and running.
On top of that, I listen to things that interest me, so I'm always running out of time.
In such a situation, I saw such a fabric, so it's already hard.
The moment I saw it, the next brand appointment was decided to be very late.
Well, it can't be helped.
We never cancel appointments, and sometimes live interaction with the brand side can be a chance to achieve something you never thought possible.
So when I saw the fabric, I felt a mission descending upon me. "I have to introduce this to everyone."
However, I had a big problem with it. It's a fabric with great power, but no matter how much I looked around it, the shape of the clothes was only very limited. .
It was the gown.
People who like it may like it, but it's quite difficult for me to wear a gown as the clothes I wear.
If it's something other than skirts and bodysuits, but if there's great technique and thought behind it, there's no reason why I wouldn't wear it.
No matter what, I couldn't imagine wearing a gown outside with a long length and a wide shawl collar that would cover the whole body.
That should be it.
Because Tukir is "Home Garment".
As a brand, I was making a gown that symbolizes the collection, but I try to force myself to wear it for going out.
I think the brand did the right thing.
That's why I really wanted to be able to wear that fabric outside in a normal way.
So, it's completed.
kalamkari summer pajama for CASANOVA&CO
material _ Khadi cotton 100%
this. "Bespoke" doesn't mean it's strange.
I think there are too many bespoke products in the world that feel superficial, such as simply changing the color or changing the fabric.
It's like a special order just to sell.
That's why I don't intend to easily make special orders, and I spend a lot of time doing that.
I think collections are great.
It was created by the brand side, spending half a year, a year, or even more time facing each other.
That's the collection.
I don't think it would be a good idea to use that collection and simply change the color or something to make it look "special".
Actually, the collection is "special".
I really think so.
That's why I don't simply place special orders.
However, this time, I desperately needed it.
I envision it in my head, I want customers to see it. I would like to introduce.
Considering that, I really wanted to ask.
When I thought so, I said it when I realized it.
"Can you make this (kalamkari) into a shirt?" smile
Then, Mr. Takka replied, "There are people who say that at other shops as well."
That's why I said, "Then, I don't want to make a special order, so it's fine to work with other shops.
I sincerely and politely told you.
But in the end, it seems that other shops didn't proceed with this. .
So I ended up ordering it separately. smile
By no means do I want to endorse it as an exclusive product of our store. Moreover, in order to show sincerity, I ordered a reasonable amount.
However, the fabric was too difficult and production was almost reduced. .
Just this kalamkari shirt. super level.
I think I was able to create something like that.
The shape is the same as the summer pajama shirt that I introduced earlier.
However, regarding size, there are only two types in the collection, type1 and type2. He promised me that he would make me a shirt, and that I would order a proper number, and then he made me a new size type3.
It's type2, and I'm 167cm tall and weigh 53kg, but with that physique, I feel like I can wear it loosely.
If it's type2, I'm in the latter half of 170cm tall, and I feel like I can wear it loosely.
However, with regard to this, I thought that a large size was also necessary considering the balance between the touch of the fabric and the kalamkari pattern, so I had the pattern made and was able to expand the size of type 3.
In the beginning, we ordered quite a few, so I think we asked the brand to do what was reasonable for them. smile
Well, in the end, I cut back quite a bit. smile
So, this kalamkari.
The base fabric is the same as the "tea dye" above.
Hand-spun cotton yarn is dyed with black tea leaves.
Weave it with a Schonherr loom and then "kalamkari".
This "kalamkari" is said to be the oldest hand-painting technique in India.
It seems that there are various theories, but it is said to be the oldest hand painting technique in India around 3000 BC.
Isn't it dangerous?
I was shown a photo of how this fabric was made, and local Indian women were using tree branches and brushes to hand-paint the actual tee-dyed fabric.
This Indian oldest hand painting technique is called "kalamkari".
It seems that this is to draw the outline of the pattern first using charcoal and tree branches.
Then, draw one color at a time.
After drawing one color, wash the fabric three times, and after drawing one color, wash the fabric three times.
That's what I'm going to repeat.
Charcoal is used for the outline of the first pattern, but after that, all colors are natural dyes.
I think you can feel the power of Indian "crafts".
All the patterns are hand-painted with natural dyes, so they bleed like this.
This is saikyo.
And this pattern.
looks like a flower.
However, if you take a closer look, you will see plants that no one has ever seen before.
pattern of this plant.
This was provided to Tukir by Mr. Seya from Seya.
This motif seems to be in a picture book in a European museum.
It seems that on a certain page in that picture book, there is a drawing of a plant that "no one has ever seen before."
It has not been clarified who painted it and why.
It seems that it is a very old encyclopedia, and only plants that do not exist on the earth are drawn now, but it is said that they may have actually existed when they were drawn.
A very mysterious and enigmatic plant pattern.
Draw such a pattern with India's oldest technique, "kalamkari".
The base is hand-spun and tea-dyed Khadi cotton.
I wanted to introduce this as a shirt to wear in the summer.
Actually, the delivery was a month ago, or even earlier.
I put it aside for a while because it was a major premise to wear this in the summer.
That's why I'm just thinking that it would be good to have them see it now.
Even more, this base khadi cotton, It's amazing.
When you see through it with light, it's a very beautiful fabric organization.
The unevenness of the thread unique to hand-spun and the soft light.
This is a fabric that feels so comfortable that the wind blows through it.
Oh my God, this fabric. It's not normal Khadi cotton. .
100% hand-spun cotton for both warp and weft.
I don't know the type of cotton, but it must be Indian super long cotton.
The texture is plain weave.
If you look closely, you can see that the thickness of the warp threads that run vertically is different from the thickness of the weft threads that run horizontally.
First of all, the warp is a 150-count single yarn because it is called Cuddy count.
The weft yarn is "80 count single yarn" with Cuddy count.
Cuddy seems to be a unique world, and the normal count is said to be "English count", but for Cuddy, there is "Cuddy count".
In Cuddy count, 150th and 80th counts are thin anyway.
Nowadays, khadi thread that thin seems to be rare even in India.
Mr. Takka is a weaver, so it seems that he places great importance on that and tried it out.
Besides, normally, the warp and weft counts of khadi cotton are the same, that is, the thickness is the same.
The good thing about khadi is that there is unevenness in the yarn that is unique to hand-spun yarn. to improve.
However, the thickness of the warp and weft is different. Thanks to this, the fabric is designed so that the more the fabric is "worn and washed", the more the fabric "falls out".
I think this is a pursuit unique to the weaver.
Of course, the fabric does not go bad, and it seems that this is the result of pursuing the highest level of "comfort", such as the best feeling against the skin and the comfort of the wind.
Although it is hand-spun, there is a tight bundle of fibers, and there is a gap between the tightness of the thread and the airflow.
This uniformity is at an ultra-high level.
Even in khadi, I think that the world's top-level yarn and organization are in place.
And it doesn't stop there, it's an extraordinary improvement by washing.
People who wear long-sleeved shirts even in summer cannot escape this comfort.
As mentioned above, the detail is an open collar type pullover.
The sleeves are single sleeves and do not have open cuffs.
Even so, the cuff width is designed to be wide, so it is stress-free to roll it up.
It's like turn-up cuffs, and the cuffs are doubled.
The collar does not have stitches and does not have a base collar.
Also, the interlining is not included in the collar.
That's why you can feel the double khadi around the neck to your heart's content.
Since it has no core and is soft, it is easy to imagine how the collar will float in the wind.
Square patch pocket at waist.
Both sides of the hem have a nice slit.
The inside of the pocket is also treated with consideration.
It's not a cut off fabric, but the fabric edge is properly processed with an overlock.
I'm Cuddy, so I'm thankful for people who are doing this.
The front opening has an inside cover and a handmade shell button.
Back yoke and center box pleats.
And this is the back.
Many of the things that catch my eye with patterns like this are made in a generous way.
But, Tukir is pretty well made.
The fabric is Indian crafts, and the sewing is a dress shirt.
After all, if there is roughness in the details such as stitching, it will become just souvenir clothes.
Anyway, I bought it locally. Like.
I'm trying to keep that from happening.
Sewing everywhere is centered on the fold-down seam with lockstitching.
I have a very fine hand.
It's not the reason why the details are so elaborate, but it's a carefully crafted shirt.
It's okay to have peace of mind there too.
So, this "kalamkari" shirt.
I really wanted to wear it.
Because I don't think I'll be able to meet a shirt with this kind of fabric anymore.
So I already wore it.
Some people who come to the store have already seen me wearing it. smile
I roll up the sleeves to the point, and I don't think about whether or not to fasten the only button on the front neck, and I wear it lazily.
It's not summer yet, but I believe that this will be a strong ally for summer.
About five times already.
I'm washing it.
Try washing it by hand or throwing it in the washing machine.
There was a lot of bulging kadi.
Also, the softness is nothing compared to the new product.
Moreover, it was stronger overall after washing.
New on the left.
The one on the right is wearing it.
Mr. Takka told me that the T-dye gradually fades after washing, and that the hand-painted fabric is slightly stained.
The colors are fading a bit, but you can definitely feel the elements that aren't just fading.
It looks pretty white in the photo.
Things are getting pretty strong.
New on the left. what the right one is wearing.
Of course, the nuances of the overall fabric have changed, but I think the patterns have become a little clearer and stand out.
Well, I guess from here.
My assumption is not now.
I think July-September is the real time.
I think it would be perfect if I wore an OLDE HOMESTEADER sleeveless undershirt underneath.
If you sweat, wipe it with kalamkari, wash it, and wear it after it dries. That's what I wanted.
This kalamkari has a different pattern one by one.
There was some discussion about whether or not to unify all the patterns.
Since the pattern is large, all of them will be painted as a whole, but everything is different one by one.
But they are all very well done.
After inspecting the entire amount, I also closed my eyes and chose it. smile
A tag with a bad thing written on it.
I'm polite to put the name of the store.
This kalamkari is reasonably priced, but considering that the gown that was originally in the collection was ¥165,000, I think it was made at a reasonable price.
If you understand this kind of thing, or if you like it, I think it's a price that you can understand immediately.
Or rather, I believe.
I don't think everyone can wear it because the pattern is strong, but I think the plain type is pretty good for those who don't like patterns.
If you wear a shirt in the summer, I would be happy if you could take a look.