This time's clothes have been introduced little by little by tracing back to Kawakami.
Considering using "guanaco", which is a very rare fiber, as a base, I asked Yamaei Keori's "double-ended low-speed rapier loom" to weave the fabric. A unique design that captures the essence of Mr. Nakatsu from the authentics.
Then, over the course of a month, Ms. Maya sewed the clothes very carefully.
I had a vague image of what the finished product would look like this time around, but after many discussions with Mr. Nakatsu from tilt The authentic, and the exchange of ideas, it became more and more clear.
The key word in my conception is "darts".
In the genre of men's clothing, it is a specification that is only used in almost limited areas such as the hips and waist of pants.
"Darts" is a specification for women's clothing.
In addition to creating a three-dimensional effect that conforms to the human body brought about by darts, I am also able to create a line that disappears in the middle of the structure of the clothes and how the overlapping width of the fabric on the back of the darts changes. I'm very attracted to clothes that are neatly processed.
It's not like tucks, which appear clearly on the surface, but the quiet movements and detailed designs that seem to unfold beneath the surface of the fabric make me feel beautiful just by thinking about it.
This time, while repeating discussions with Mr. Nakatsu of tilt The authentic, Mr. Nakatsu drew a picture, and in response to that, I also drew a picture and conceived the structure of the clothes we were aiming for.
And in the completed form, which was clearly completed, "a spectacular design" was incorporated.
Darts are not just something you put in.
Except for the middle waist position slightly above the buttocks, all parts of the body have to be curved. not.
That's why Mr. Yamazaki, a pattern maker, worked hard day and night to create a complex design, from the basic design of the clothes, to the length of the darts, the exact position, and the distribution of the amount of darts as they unfolded. gave me
This is by no means just a perfection of appearance, but even in the super-specialized professional field, "pattern making" was performed at a tremendously high level.
Very impressed with this too.
There are some things that are very disturbing.
The fabric, pattern, sewing, and all the processes, Mr. Nakatsu of tilt The authentics has made full use of what he has accumulated so far, and it was born clothes.
Two jackets and two trousers.
Please see the spectacular super polite specifications for both.
That's it.
tilt The authentics × CASANOVA&CO
tilt The Coverall Jacket
material _ GUANACO 38%, GREEN COTTON 36%, WOOL 26%
color _ NATURAL COLOR
face_GUANACO
size_1,2,3
tilt The authentics × CASANOVA&CO
tilt The Coverall Jacket
material _ GUANACO 38%, GREEN COTTON 36%, WOOL 26%
color _ NATURAL COLOR
face _ GREEN COTTON (FOX 50G)
size_1,2,3
First, this.
It's called "tilt The Coverall Jacket".
There are nuances similar to the coverall style, such as the shape of the collar and the patch pockets on the waist, but I wanted to create something that stands out from the "framework of coveralls."
Originally, the word "tilt" means "to tilt", as in the brand name "tilt The authentics".
It started with the idea of ``something authentic, not straight, but slightly slanted''.
And even in brands, coveralls have been created as a kind of "face".
In addition to this one, we added an element of the brand name and created it together as a "culmination of coveralls" among Tilt The Authentics.
So it's packed with a lot of essence.
As I announced a little before, this time, I use the same "front and back" of the same fabric that is not "different colors".
However, I think that by combining the same fabric, and all the materials are "non-dyed", with the structure of the fabric, we were able to create something that looks completely different.
A stainless steel collar with a low front collar and a high back collar due to the moon waist parts.
This is the "latine tissue" side with "guanaco wool" on the outside.
back.
In order to make the most of the quality of the fabric and stitching, this jacket looks simple, but is packed with incredible things.
The fabric is dense and thick, but the tip of the collar is sharpened so as not to be rounded, and the edge stitching on the collar is sharp.
The back collar is also a splendid top stitch.
The shoulders are raglan sleeves.
The raglan switching line has no stitches on the front.
However, there is a very clear switching line.
This is the beauty of "split stitching" by Tamamono of Maya's intermediate iron.
And this jacket.
Can you see not only the raglan line of the raglan sleeve, but also the shoulder switching line that looks like a set-in sleeve?
Not only is there a beautiful raglan line, but there is also a "line" at the shoulder switching position, which is originally used as a "set-in sleeve".
Even from behind.
behind this.
Do you understand?
A "set-in sleeve-like" line that disappears in the middle.
This is "Darts".
This specification is a crazy specification that Mr. Nakatsu of tilt The authentics and Mr. Yamazaki of pattern maker have been warming up for a long time.
"Shoulder darts" that Mr. Yamazaki has researched for many years and has always researched the best balance.
I have never come across such "shoulder darts" clothes before.
Besides,,,
This "shoulder dart".
The sleeves are high, and inside the darts, there is a specification that is extremely difficult to sew.
Look.
Do you understand?
Comparing the body side and the sleeve side with the position of the "shoulder darts" as the boundary, the "sleeve side is higher".
Simply put, the more casual the clothes, the higher the body side.
Conversely, the closer the garment is to a dress, the higher the sleeves will be.
If you imagine a suit, you'll understand, but suit jackets have high sleeves.
The specification with high sleeves is closer to the dress.
For example, all general coveralls should be "bodice high".
This time, the pattern maker Mr. Yamazaki designed it with "high sleeves" because it looks like a coverall.
And, furthermore, the above-mentioned shoulder darts "Ise included".
"Ise-komi" is a specification that shrinks the fabric to create a roundness and three-dimensional effect.
Normally, the armholes of the set-in sleeves are lined with fabric on the sleeve side to allow movement of the arms and shoulders.
And usually, a dart is a straight line.
Therefore, this is a dart that is originally made in a straight line.
"Curve it, and then add a curve to make it a more three-dimensional shape."
It has a transcendental pattern and sewing technique that you have never seen before.
Very distinctive "shoulder darts" packed with extreme detail, with short distances and rounded shoulders.
This sewing specification is the skill of Mr. Kamiyama, the No. 1 seamstress of Mr. Maya. .
At this point, I don't think such coveralls should exist in the world.
And while it is called a raglan sleeve, there is a change in the center line of the shoulder.
At this point, stitches are added to both edges of the split stitch.
Additionally, the raglan lines on the front and back of the shoulder are not uniform and the raglan lines start at different positions.
For the pattern making of the shoulders, Mr. Yamazaki gave me a detailed design to the point where there was no sharpness.
Ms. Kamiyama's beautiful split stitching work.
The stitching around the collar is also perfect.
The stitchwork on the moon waist that goes into the back collar is also amazing.
and a pocket.
Two darts are placed in each of the waist pockets attached to the front.
This is because I wanted to put out a little gore by using darts.
Furthermore, the pockets look like square patch pockets, but they are not straight to show the gusset.
I think this pocket is a part that will be used a lot in real life, so I'm aiming for a practical pocket function rather than a normal patch pocket.
There are no stitches at the pocket opening, only the sashes on both sides.
Left, right, and bottom have continuous stitching.
The darts are not stitched to hold down the darts either, so the shading depends on the presence or absence of the stitches.
I aim to bring out the depth of clothing details by "multiple types of lines" in one piece of clothing.
The inside of the pocket is lined with 100% cotton fabric.
It's completely different without this kind of consideration.
Well, it goes without saying that the pocket cloth is beautifully sewn, but I don't think the pocket will weaken even when the pocket itself is used a lot.
Please use the pocket with great confidence.
button.
This button is not original, but I think it is quite rare.
Buffalo button with leather.
It's a button that looks like it's just hollowed out from the horn of a water buffalo in a round shape.
Among the buttons, they are much more expensive than normal ones, and I don't think they are used much in Japanese brands, but I like this button, so this time all the buttons are this " I chose "buffalo button with leather".
It's a good button with different surface lines and different textures.
However, the installation of this button is amazing.
If you look at it from the side, you'll notice that the buttons are very raised.
Moreover, I think that you can feel the real thing that each one is attached very firmly.
Maya took the time to attach the buttons one by one.
Then, the buttonhole is opened using the most advanced buttonhole sewing machine.
Stitch density, overlock width.
There are many loose buttonhole clothes, but this level is a masterpiece.
Feel the cutting edge of the world every time you put the button on and take it off.
Water buffalo button with leather, state-of-the-art buttonhole with pocket darts and edge stitch.
This beautiful landscape.
Two leather buffalo buttons on the cuffs, too.
Kandome.
This kandome fits in the front cover and pocket opening.
This kandome has a very high thread density, which is completely different from normal kandome.
This is the sleeve.
It's a sleeve that swings forward, but it also has darts on the inside of the elbow.
And the processing of the fabric edge of the front facing.
Very fine overlock.
According to the instructions of pattern maker Mr. Yamazaki and Mr. Nakatsu of tilt The authentics, we had them sew with a higher thread density than usual.
There are many casual coveralls with gas gas overlocks, but that's not what I'm aiming for.
That's why, even though it's a hidden part behind the back, Ms. Maya has meticulously worked on it.
So, back.
See more of Maya's immeasurable level here.
Mr. Yamazaki, a pattern maker with a long career, was surprised by the quality of Maya's "split stitch" piping.
It is the on-parade.
Ultra "split piping".
Accurate piping that adds to the color contrast of guanaco wool and FOX 50G.
This level is no ordinary.
You can instantly feel Maya's sewing standards.
"Split piping" with uniform width.
And even the back side is not distorted, straight, and finely sewn.
The aura of clothes from the back is a transcendent level.
Made in Japan or made in Japan is good. The era of saying, the era of judging there is already over.
It's not like, "Where is it made?"
The important thing is "who is making it".
That's why I decided to make this outfit with Mr. Nakatsu from tilt The authentic.
This is the quality of "made by marya".
It's funny. A super-constructive shoulder area that is so dangerous that I think.
Ms. Maya's stitching, which made the pattern maker Mr. Yamazaki's elaborate shoulder design into reality.
The "shoulder darts" have "squat", so the fabric is not only picked up at the darts, but also cut into the fabric tightly.
That part is treated with a fine overlock so that the edge does not come out.
If you think about it normally, normal clothes can't be overlocked in such places, so as the darts go to the end, the width of the darts fabric becomes narrower and narrower, but until the limit where the lock enters Are you attacking me?
The stitching shines in the switching between the two sleeves and the "split piping" on the front and back.
The curve is tight and the bottom of the armhole is finished perfectly.
and,,,
tilt The authentics × CASANOVA&CO
20 Darts 3D Trouser
material _ GUANACO 38%, GREEN COTTON 36%, WOOL 26%
color _ NATURAL COLOR
face_ GUANACO
size_1,2,3
tilt The authentics × CASANOVA&CO
20 Darts 3D Trouser
material _ GUANACO 38%, GREEN COTTON 36%, WOOL 26%
color _ NATURAL COLOR
face _ GREEN COTTON (FOX 50G)
size_1,2,3
this.
As the name suggests, this trouser is made of 20 darts.
The lower body moves more than the upper body and repeats thickening and thinning from the buttocks to the ankles.
It is a trouser designed with 10 darts on the left and right sides to combine sharpness and three-dimensionality.
This is a realization of the ideal of darts that can be inserted in plenty by drawing many pictures of how to insert darts, where to insert them, the number of darts, and the length.
This is the pattern maker Mr. Yamazaki's many years of techniques.
With such a large number of darts, there are too many parts, and pattern makers who are inexperienced or inexperienced will find it difficult to maintain consistency.
However, with Mr. Yamazaki's experience and pattern technique, I was able to shape the extremely complicated amount of darts with "all meaningful development and dispersion".
Trousers are green cotton (FOX 50G) photos.
This side will be an organization called "Tussah".
The guanaco side shown in the previous jacket is made of spun wool, so the seams look natural when viewed from the front. Because it comes out, the seam will come out even more.
The front opening has a buffalo button with leather attached to the top like the previous jacket, and the Excela zipper closure.
Of course, the buttonhole is also made with the most advanced buttonhole.
As some of you may have noticed from the first photo, there are two darts on each side of the waist front.
However, both have different angles.
Darts that fall straight down and darts that extend diagonally.
Yaba together. I really like it.
The pocket is set to a pocket that uses the switching between the front and back.
The pocket openings are only lined on the left and right sides, but even though there are no stitches, the pockets really stand out.
I feel that this is a ball of iron work before and after sewing.
back.
The back is a wide single bead specification.
As you can see, the buffalo button with leather is attached only on the left side.
Below that, darts running in the horizontal direction.
I wanted to add this dart to open up the roundness of my buttocks, so I didn't have the option of patch pockets for trousers.
While I was painting, I thought that this would be the best, but when it was finished, I felt that it was the best.
Well, since there are a lot of darts on the front, this is also something that Mr. Nakatsu of tilt The authentics and Mr. Yamazaki of pattern maker took great pains to do.
and hem.
This is the front side.
Two darts running from the hem to the knee and darts extending from the left and right of the knee.
The trousers this time have a sharp outline, but I wanted to create a volume with a wide width, so I wanted to make it fit well at the hem and create a three-dimensional shape at the knee.
That's why I wanted to put out the volume on my knees, and I wanted to find the best balance for the fit of the hem width.
Because I think it's especially important to go down from the knee of the pants.
Well, it's all important.
It doesn't look flashy, and of course it has meaning, but I wanted details.
So this spec.
And this.
The hem of the body after this.
This is a specification that combines both the darts element and the merit of switching.
When I was thinking about the completed form of this trouser, I thought that this part of the back body should have darts that gradually extend from the outside of the hem to the inside.
When I draw a picture of it and show it to Mr. Nakatsu and Mr. Yamazaki, if that's the case, by combining not only darts but also darts and switching, I can build a more meaningful detail. I was asked to think that I can do it.
By creating a structure that extends from the outside of the hem to the calf and through the inside of the thigh, the structure is such that the desired outline continues to appear not only when new but also when worn.
"I've never seen such switching pants."
I believe in what everyone says.
This is the specification that I have warmed up to now. smile
Well, I was able to make that idea a big, big, positive leap.
look. How to switch beautifully in this curvilinear way.
Isn't it an ultra-modern detail?
When you wear it, you will want to show your inner thighs to people.
And this trouser made up of a total of 20 darts.
This is the side view.
bending.
Sharp when viewed from the front, bending of the knee when viewed from the side.
I wanted to draw this form.
I don't have any complaints about how it looks below the knee from the side.
Unparalleled, beautiful lines of darts and transitions.
This creates a nice shadow.
But it's not just about what you see.
Fine lock specifications on the back of the belt loop, still alive.
And the back is also a masterpiece.
A total of 20 darts are beautifully and carefully processed.
The specifications around the shoulders of the jacket I mentioned earlier also look terrifying, but I think you can feel the awesomeness of the pants.
A very beautiful fit of the knee and hem darts.
The beauty behind the darts makes you wonder if the front side is enough.
Darts are difficult to understand, but the point is that you have to be very careful when handling the tip of the dart.
It is often said that it is a dent called "dimple".
The overlap of the tip of the dart must be sewn at a point where it is as close to zero as possible.
Beautiful darts will never be born if the technique is not high.
That's one suit, and there are 20 of them.
They sew very carefully.
Switching specifications on the back.
piping here.
But aren't you just taking care of it?
This is where you can really feel Maya's skill with the trousers.
From "one-sided piping", continue as it is "split piping".
Sewing specifications change at one seam on the back side.
The skill to finish it beautifully so far.
Exactly, this is a "god's trick".
"Shaped shoulder darts" on the jacket and "change from one-sided piping to split piping" on the trousers.
It takes a lot of patience and is difficult to sew all of this at this level.
Mr. Yamazaki, a pattern maker, had a very difficult order to make with such a complicated specification. I said, but you've done it perfectly.
It's a part that can't be seen from the outside, but it's because I was born after overcoming such a high hurdle. Of this time.
Please look forward to it.
No matter how you look at it, both jackets and trousers have been completed with the utmost attention to detail.
The fabric, the pattern, and the sewing are the result of Japan's best "craftsmanship" in each field.
If you are interested, I would be happy if you could turn over the real thing and see every corner of the back side.
And I'll let you know more about it later, but I'm going to talk a little bit about sales.
As we announced the other day, we will start selling at CASANOVA&CO from Saturday, July 15th.
In that case, Mr. Nakatsu from tilt The authentics will be at the store all day long.
In addition, Mr. Yamada from Sanei Keori and Mr. Tadashi Sugaya from Maya Sewing will be at the store, although they will not be available for the entire three-day weekend.
Furthermore, this time, until now, we have only had the opportunity to see the actual product at the CASANOVA&CO storefront.
I myself live far away, and I always communicate with them. Some people believe in what I tell them and buy without seeing the actual product.
So this time, I decided to go out.
I will take it to Tokyo for three days from July 22nd (Sat) to 24th (Mon).
The location is Kitasando.
At that time, I would like to tell Mr. Nakatsu of tilt The authentics and everyone, and I would like to create an opportunity for you to actually see this work.
Also, since we are planning to sell it in Tokyo, it is undecided whether it will be posted on the online store at this time.
If there is someone who would be very grateful to receive a strong request, please contact us.
And I will be on a business trip to Tokyo tomorrow. smile
I'll let you know more about this outfit at a later date.
Continue. . .