From the other day, I've been letting you know about this time.
As I told you yesterday, this time I made it with tilt The authentics.
I am happy that there are people who can contact me and people who care about me by putting out the name of the brand.
I've been able to ask those who are concerned about this time, so I'll let you know first.
From Saturday, July 15, 2023.
So please look forward to it.
this blog. smile
I'll let you know again about the sales method.
I went to Mr. Nakatsu and Mr. Keori Yamaei of tilt The authentics, the pattern was made by Mr. Yamazaki, a big pattern maker in the industry who has been working on the design of tilt The authentics since its debut, and the sewing was made by Maya Sewing Factory.
Today, I would like to introduce "Maya Sewing Factory" who did the sewing.
The quality produced by this sewing factory is amazing.
Up until now, I have always thought that the sewing of clothes is very important, and because it changes the level of clothes greatly, I have tried to emphasize that point.
However, even among clothes, sewing is very difficult to understand, and I am fully aware that it is a field that is difficult for customers to understand.
In the first place, even with Yamauchi's Ferreira Mohair series, if there were no seamstresses involved, ordinary people wouldn't be able to sew that fabric, but it's actually taking shape and appearing in front of my eyes. So it's hard to feel even that.
And so is the fabric of this time's "Guanaco Wool x FOX 50G".
However, through the clothes this time, what is "high quality sewing"?
I think that you will be able to feel "What is Maya's level of sewing?"
I am convinced of this.
The quality of the finished clothes is really lacking.
From the moment I saw it, even when I wore it, Maya's sewing quality gave me a "super impression" that made me tremble from the bottom of my heart.
This is exactly what I felt I saw "really high level sewing".
Even as I write this blog, I am having the most moving experience since "Ferreira Mohair".
By all means, everyone, please take a look at the clothes this time with your heart.
Well, it hasn't appeared today yet. smile
First, get to know Maya.
Just like when I went to Yamaei Keori, I met up with Mr. Nakatsu from tilt The authentics and headed to the nearest station in Tokyo's Adachi Ward, where Maya is located.
I forgot which station we met at, but at the end we got on the monorail.
So I met up with Mr. Sugaya of Maya Sewing Factory.
Mr. Sugaya came to pick me up by car.
Up until then, I had exchanged emails with Mr. Sugaya on various occasions, but this was the first time I had met him.
Founded in 1959.
Maya Co., Ltd.
This word is at the entrance.
It's a job where you have to face what's right in front of you, and this kind of "technical job" is a job that requires a lot of patience.
That's why I think these words support sewing people every day.
It's a sewing factory with a long history, so they showed me a lot of things when I came here for the first time.
An old company guide that makes you feel the time.
It is said that even a heavyweight in the Japanese fashion industry, who everyone who likes fashion knows, read this document with great interest when he visited Maya.
Maya is a sewing factory run mainly by the Sugaya family.
The president's father, his wife, and his son, who is scheduled to be at the shop during sales in Okayama, and the skilled seamstresses make clothes every day.
As I wrote in yesterday's blog, Maya-san is one of the top three factories that sew high-end ready-to-wear in Japan.
I mainly sew women's clothes.
Women's sewing standards are much higher than men's.
The reason for this is that there are many delicate fabrics that are thin and transparent for women, and wrinkles that make the seams sticky are unacceptable in the high-end zone.
The factory has been there for many years.
Currently, I also sew tilt the authentics, but most of the clothes I sew seem to be women's.
Or rather, I think Tilt The Authentics was my first men's clothing.
Starting with tilt The authentics, they also sew men's clothing.
In other words, Mr. Nakatsu of tilt The authentics who opened the door is also amazing.
Well, the story of when Maya started Tilt The Authentics was amazing.
I would like to introduce it again.
After that, first of all, I was shown the cutting room on the first floor.
This is the cutting machine.
The sewing factory where I used to work had a cutting machine like this, but the level was different.
So, I asked Tadashi Sugaya, who is his son, to show me the actual cutting process.
A line to cut with a projector was displayed from above.
So, when I listened to the story, I was informed of Maya's amazing things.
Here, the fabric cut the day before was piled up.
This is laying the cut fabric.
Maya manages overwhelming quality.
This is overwhelming in the whole process.
Normally, the fabric is cut by a cutting machine according to the pattern, and then immediately sent to the sewing shop.
Not so with Maya.
First, "rough cutting" is performed at the time of cutting.
It is to take margins and cut from the actually designed pattern.
Then, Mr. Sugaya puts the "roughly cut" fabrics one by one into a machine called a binding machine and "heat-treats" them.
"Rough cutting", "heat treatment", and then leave the fabric to rest overnight.
This is the dough that I left overnight.
Do you understand? ?
The size of the fabric that was originally "roughly cut" is the same size as the brown paper that is laid under the fabric.
But the laid dough is actually smaller than the brown paper.
In other words, by heat-treating and letting it rest overnight, the fabric will "shrink".
Then, after shrinking it, it is cut according to the pattern dimensions, which is "straight cutting".
This is a very rare process in the world.
Even in Japan, this process is carried out only in a few very limited sewing factories that sew high-end ready-to-wear.
The reason why we go through this kind of process just by cutting is that at first, clothes are made according to the dimensions, but depending on the fabric, it may become taut or distorted over time. That's it.
According to the company president, Mr. Satoshi Sugaya, Maya has continued the process of "rough cutting", "heat treatment", "storage", and "correct cutting" for more than 30 years.
I had never heard of such a process.
It seems that this started after sewing imported fabrics became more common.
Some of the imported fabrics emphasize texture, so some of them are prone to deformation such as shrinkage and distortion.
That's why Maya always goes through this process not only at the beginning, but also after the time has passed since the production, so that the clothes do not change negatively.
Mr. Satoshi Sugaya, president of the company, said that Maya places great importance on "making things seriously."
Since it is a sewing factory, it seems that they have continued to do it as a corporate culture of "carefully making" various small things such as stitch eyes, button attachments, buttonholes.
For example, even for the same clothes, if many people sew the same clothes not only inside the company but also outside the company such as outsourcing, there will be "variation" and "differences in products".
And the word "tolerance" is born.
When various people in various places make the same clothes, there is a possibility that some of them will be good, while others will end up with something that looks like a B product.
That's why Maya's manufacturing is done at the sewing site in the company, erasing the idea of "permissible range".
For that reason, Maya's standards are "unified".
I felt that this way of thinking collapsed the concept of the sewing site.
Of course, the concept of outsourcing is not limited to clothes, but is practiced in various industries, and I think it is necessary. I think that the "concentration" of the finished product will naturally decrease.
That's why Maya doesn't use that system.
In addition, in-house sewing is also "thoroughly thorough".
First of all, it seems that he does not use multiple sewing machines, such as two or three, to sew one piece of clothing.
This is because, as before, if you use multiple sewing machines, the stitches will be uneven.
That's why it's all done with "one sewing machine".
Dangerous. It's amazing.
Even though it is a sewing "factory", it is extremely thorough.
Gradually, when I listen to the story, my body tightens up. smile
From beginning to end, Mr. Maya always said that he put his heart into everything he created.
“I think the quality of the finished product is the most important thing, rather than efficiency or speed.”
It's just that there are multiple sewing people on the site.
That's why, every morning, every day, everyone talks, shares details and everything, and everyone works together.
At that time, everyone at the work site shares how to match the needle size and the thread tension of the sewing machine to the fabric to be sewn.
If only one person or even one place does something different, the "balance of clothes" will collapse.
Therefore, it is always thorough.
Well, I've never met a sewing factory like this. It's amazing.
And yet, it's so creative.
A new Kandome sewing machine has been introduced, and the buttonhole sewing machine uses the latest and most advanced Japanese ones.
In addition, buttonholes are made not only by the "needle density" of the stitches of the holes, but also by the width of the stitches of the holes, which is usually impossible to adjust. It seems that they are going.
He researches the state-of-the-art sewing machines that have been introduced and makes full use of them in order to make the most of them.
Of course, this time's clothes, which will soon be unveiled to everyone, are also made with the most advanced buttonhole sewing machines.
Well, not just buttonholes, but everything is completed through "Mr. Maya's thorough process".
Expect as much as you can.
State-of-the-art buttonhole sewing machine.
I'm so pissed off.
This is the sewing site on the second floor.
Everyone with a lot of skill was in charge of each place.
And further "characteristics of Mr. Maya".
This is bad too.
Iron in the photo.
It's called a "surf iron".
This iron is also very rare in the world.
No questions asked, I also saw it for the first time in my life.
This is something you won't see anywhere else.
This iron is also a big, big, big story of Maya's "clothing quality."
This is heartbreaking too.
The major feature of Maya's sewing is...
God quality of "split stitch".
'Cause I don't think I'll ever see you again
Do you understand? this shape.
All irons, whether for home or industrial use, have a flat shape.
However, this iron has a slanted shape both front and back and left and right, and only the center line is straight.
This "surf iron" is said to be applied to the "seam allowance for sewing".
When ironing the seam allowance, "go and back" over the seam allowance.
At that time, this shape plays a major role in making the seam allowance "straight".
If you iron the seam allowance with a regular iron, it will be wavy.
However, with this "Surf Iron", you can keep the seam allowance "straight" and tight without waving.
On top of that, at Maya, there are a great many "ironing processes" for each piece of clothing.
This is called an "intermediate iron".
Normally, the ironing work for sewing clothes is a "finishing iron" that arranges after all the clothes are sewn.
However, Maya says that there are a lot of "intermediate irons" that apply a "surf iron" to that part every time you sew.
That's why the clothes this time are also dangerous.
Seriously, really, really, seriously, ultra-impossible.
The line for changing clothes, this line is "alive".
Moreover, it does not fall apart even after repeated washing.
I've been feeling it for the past two months.
I was incredibly surprised by this.
For the first time in my life, I have come across clothes that have a "switching line" alive.
Be sure to watch this.
I'll post pictures in the future, but the lines of the real clothes are 500 million times more "alive" than the pictures.
And the sewing specifications that make the most of Maya's "surf iron" technology...
"Split seam piping".
For the clothes this time, Mr. Yamazaki, a prominent pattern maker, has used "split piping" to make the most of Maya's sewing techniques.
Mr. Yamazaki, a pattern maker, has been designing patterns for all of Mr. Nakatsu's clothes since tilt The authentics debuted as a brand. It seems not.
This is because, when designing with the specifications of "split piping", most of the sewing factories did not have a beautiful finish that Mr. Yamazaki was satisfied with, and the clothes designed by Mr. Yamazaki have almost different specifications.
However, Mr. Yamazaki was satisfied with Mr. Maya's sewing quality, and this time he used the "split piping" specification a lot.
This is the place where clothes of such quality are born.
And a woman in light blue clothes sewn in the back.
This is the No. 1 seamstress that Maya is proud of.
Mr. Kamiyama showed me a little bit of the process of sewing something.
Mainly because Maya sews women's clothes.
At that time, I was sewing a fabric that seemed really delicate and seemed to have a high hurdle.
Just by looking at it, the fabric is so soft that you can't tell the mix ratio.
He sewed it with a fine hand.
Well, it's Japan's leading sewing factory, Maya's No. 1.
And this time, Kamiyama-san sewed all the clothes by himself.
No.1 took a month to sew our clothes.
This time, for the clothes with tilt the authentics, I wanted to show my ideal clothes, the talent of Mr. Nakatsu of tilt the authentics, and the potential to fly.
That's why it has such a complicated shape, and the pattern maker Mr. Yamazaki, who designed it so well, took my ideas into consideration, and made samples over and over again.
Mr. Kamiyama sewed everything from the sample sewing.
And from here, too, it is very special, but Mr. Kamiyama, the sewer, and Mr. Yamazaki, the pattern maker, have been in direct contact from the stage of sewing the sample to the middle of sewing, There was an unheard-of story about making a leap forward in sewing specifications.
This is also transcendentally special, something that cannot be normal.
Normally, if there is anything unclear about the specifications while the sample is being sewn, the person in charge of sewing will communicate this to the contact person at the factory.
The liaison person contacts the brand.
Then, the brand person contacts the pattern maker.
That is, following the reverse order, the specifications are conveyed to the person in charge of sewing.
This is common.
But that's not the case with Maya.
Ms. Sugaya from Maya also passed over Ms. Nakatsu from tilt The authentics, and Ms. Kamiyama, who sews, consulted and confirmed directly with Ms. Yamazaki, the pattern maker, to complete the work.
Mr. Maya and Mr. Nakatsu of tilt The authentic think very positively about this, and believe that the best thing is the result of direct discussion between the professionals who actually sew and the professionals who design.
It certainly is.
This seems to be the case with Tilt The Authentics from time to time.
That's why Tilt The Authentics clothes are always made with very fine sewing specifications.
However, Maya's president's wife, Megumi, says:
“Mr. Nakatsu from tilt The authentic visits me many times a year and speaks very kindly to the people who are sewing.”
Mr. Nakatsu, on a regular basis, when starting production from a sample, he asks if everything is okay. For example, I talk to the seamstress who actually sews the clothes and speak kindly to them, so the sewing side will get more and more emotional from the samples, and they will feel like "I will do my best to sew Mr. Nakatsu's clothes." That's it.
Not only at sewing sites, but also at clothing production sites, there are actually people who say harsh things to the upstream, and even people who think that it is impossible.
However, Mr. Nakatsu is not at all like that.
That is why I feel a strong connection with Yamaei Keori, Maya, and pattern maker Yamazaki.
In Maya, in particular, his wife, Megumi, said, "Mr. Nakatsu treats you like family."
Ordinarily, there should be almost no such relationship.
However, Tilt The Authentics clothes are only possible when there is a relationship of mutual trust.
It's been a long time since I started working with Mr. Nakatsu, the designer, since his debut as a brand.
And that has been passed down to everyone involved in the creation of Tilt The Authentics clothing, and has achieved tremendous development.
By drawing out Maya's techniques in men's clothing, we have created clothing quality that we have not experienced before.
In particular, the quality of this time is really so.
Clothes sewn by these people.
Please look forward to the sewing level of Maya Sewing Factory.
Continue. . .