Today, we had two of our staff members, Noguchi and Takemoto, do an Instagram live for the first time in a while, and we would like to thank everyone who was able to watch it.
It ended up being a little long, but I hope you enjoyed it.
Today, I would like to introduce you to The CLASIK.
It's been a while since I've written about The CLASIK here, but this time I think the brand is making the most elaborate specs of all these days.
It's a double jacket.
DOUBLE BREASTED BLAZER
face material _ WOOL 100%
lining material_CUPRO 100%
color _ FOX TWEED GLEN CHECK
this. Was it spring/summer 2020?
No, 19 years?
I also met Mr. Tanaka of The CLASIK for the first time at his debut collection exhibition, and at that time he was wearing only outerwear.
The collection consisted of only 10 types of outerwear. Even though it's spring and summer.
However, all of them were at a high level.
Nowadays, we have a complete collection lineup, but in the first season I felt the foundation of the brand.
To put it simply, what Mr. Tanaka of The CLASIK was trying to express was conveyed very clearly.
So, with this jacket, my thoughts at that time came back to me more vividly.
That kind of jacket.
Peak lapel with pointed collar.
And a patch pocket.
This is a very rare combination for a jacket with a double front.
Normally, jackets with a double-breasted peak lapel collar have a very good shape at the waist, and pockets with flaps on both sides or on one side are classic.
But that's not what The CLASIK is about this time.
Mr. Tanaka of The CLASIK is very knowledgeable about the details of traditional European, especially British, clothing, but he doesn't feel like he's simply reproducing old clothing.
That too, at a fairly high level.
That's what I really feel about this DOUBLE BREASTED BLAZER.
This jacket, The CLASIK, is not a tailor, so it's not a vector, but it's very well thought out.
I believe that the important part of a jacket is the "internals" that hold the key to it.
Of course, the outer material, pattern work, and stitching are also important, but keeping in mind the future will also affect the comfort of the garment.
"Built-in materials" = "interlining" It would be good if you could think of interlining as something that is always hidden inside all clothes.
There are things that are included even in T-shirts, and they are necessary to maintain the shape and performance of clothes.
First, it doesn't have shoulder pads.
Instead, a "hair core" is placed inside the part that rests on the shoulders.
A hair core is a woven fabric made from wool or animal hair that is used as an "interlining".
Therefore, when you wear it, it doesn't emphasize your shoulders and gives you a familiar look, but it also maintains its shape.
The structure of your shoulders is also important.
This is also an element of ``sleeve attaching'', and is the ``seam allowance'' that connects the body and sleeves. This seam allowance will be hidden inside.
That is, the seam allowance on the bodice is on the bodice.
Sleeve seam allowance should be in the direction of the sleeve. Each one is "split" evenly.
Nowadays, there are many jackets that are called jackets but have a high body area, like coveralls, but that gives the impression of being light.
However, the old-fashioned "high sleeves" are sometimes too stiff.
This time, The CLASIK jacket is intended to be an everyday jacket, as trousers are not produced in the first place.
It's not for formal use.
So, the fact that the shoulder sleeves are ``split stitched'' gives a very good impression.
This jacket also has a built-in "hair core" in the front and all necessary areas.
If you use "adhesive interlining", which is convenient for production, instead of using a wool interlining, the outer material and interlining will remain glued together.
That's true, but it increases production efficiency, but a "hair core" is a state in which the outer material and the interlining (hair core) are separated and independent.
Therefore, as the garment is worn continuously, the fabric gradually rubs against each other and becomes a perfect fit for the wearer's body.
And it becomes even softer.
This is what it means to be "familiar".
It's paradise now.
A used item is softer and more comfortable than a new item.
It fits better and you can't take it off anymore.
It's a jacket with great future potential.
There are no buttons, holes, or openings on the cuffs.
The reason is that if you make this the main face, it will look like it was made by a tailor.
This is Tanaka's way of achieving balance.
Classic wool fabric is pasted on the upper collar of the lapel.
And the outer material.
This is tweed from British FOX BROTHERS.
If you look closely, you can see that multiple yarn-dyed wool yarns are used, including navy, gray, khaki, and black.
That glen check.
The outer material is FOX BROTHERS tweed, so it has an old British feel to it, so it's a sturdy fabric.
Therefore, you may need to keep wearing it for about 3 years, including using the hair core, to get the "stiffness" out of it.
Well, that kind of thing is also a necessary process for making a proper jacket.
In the words of an old great man, ``When wearing a tweed jacket, stuff the pockets with stones and hang them to dry under the eaves.
So, when it's worn out after being exposed to the elements for many years, it's time to start wearing it. "
I've seen you say that before.
So, first of all, it is important to wear it and use it.
If you do that, little by little, it will become your own.
So, by the time I realized it, it was integrated.
It's a good idea to go along with such slow clothes.
The back has side vents.
The back is unlined. It's not a total backlash. This is proof of the effort put into sewing.
Below the CLASIK name is the FOX TWEED name.
The buffalo power button is also placed on the back of the button on the front cover.
When I turn over this endpaper...
A hair core appears. Can I use a sewing machine to sew on the hair core?
If this is hand sewn, the price will skyrocket.
Still, installing an interlining with a solid margin will have great benefits in the future.
The patch pockets on the waist pockets are round in shape.
Since this is a jacket of this type, there are no pocket stitching in order to avoid casual wear.
There is a separate fabric inside the pocket.
The edges of the pocket fabric are also properly overlocked.
As mentioned earlier, there are no sleeve openings, but this width of the cuffs.
About as far as your finger indicates.
It looks like there is a hair core in this part as well.
Mr. Tanaka from The CLASIK said that this will create a soft bulge in the cuffs and maintain shape.
The lining of the sleeves is cupro.
It's tweed, after all.
The fabric itself is quite thick.
Genuine buffalo buttons.
The thickness remains strong.
The sense of security that comes with manual handling is still intact.
It is very visible on the inside that the time taken to create each garment is the processing of the pocket bag cloth, thread loops, wool core, etc.
When you hold it like this, you can clearly see that even though it's just the core of the hair, it's well-retained.
That's right, the hair core is not included on the back side.
In the case of hair core tailoring, it is mainly used around the shoulders in the back of the body, and it is designed to maintain its shape while avoiding a too stiff look.
I feel like I'm wearing this.
I'm 174cm tall and I forget the weight, but I'm wearing a slender Takemoto.
Although it's double-breasted, since it doesn't have a strong shape, the extra width of the body is very effective.
You know, a boxy outline.
As for clothing, it retains a good old-fashioned feel while still having a stylish design and is designed to go well with casual pants.
Even in terms of appearance, I think it has a very good balance.
Nowadays, there are many different kinds of jackets, but please take a look at this one as well.
I'm sure you'll be able to feel something unique to this The CLASIK jacket.