As we announced the other day, this is a special project with The CLASIK.
It was a year and a half ago that I started thinking about this.
It's sunny, and it's finally taking shape, and it looks like it's going to be premiering soon.
The CLASIK × CASANOVA&CO "CLASSIC SHIRTS SPECIAL LOT"
As I have told you so far, it is a fabric that uses 170 count two-ply yarn for the warp and 330 count four children for the weft. But this time, the clothes we created together with the brand are shirts.
And the most authentic of the shirts, the one that has existed for a long time, and the straight one.
"A shirt with a white collar".
It's something that everyone knows, and I think it's a genre of clothing that can be found anywhere in any brand.
But this time, absolutely, the quality is second to none.
Unless it's the same thing I've never seen before, I won't meet you again.
I think I was able to create something that I can assert.
The CLASIK × CASANOVA&CO
"CLASSIC SHIRTS SPECIAL LOT"
material_GIZA 45 100%
warp yarn count_170/2
weft yarn count_330/4
The fabric is made in Italy by DAVID & JOHN ANDERSON, who have their roots in England, and we introduced them the other day.
170-count two-ply yarn for the warp. The weft is 330-count quadruple twist.
The left twill of the ultra-fine count.
In the brand's collection, there is a level of 200-count two-ply yarn, and it is also DAVID & JOHN ANDERSON.
We use the latest and highest level of DJA's highest rank series, "GOLDEN JUBILEE".
At this stage, even DJA cannot make anything better than this fabric.
Well, it's a word I'm not usually used to, but it might be easier to convey when I say "the world's most advanced". smile
The realm of "100% cotton".
This is what we arrived at based on the idea of how far we can pursue the possibilities of "fabric made of 100% cotton" that everyone knows.
Amazing fineness and overwhelming texture.
And the ultimate brilliance that makes you doubt your eyes in the "natural range".
Shirts were originally a type of clothing called underwear, and the quality of the fabric itself is something that you can directly feel with your body.
One of the clothes that have existed in Western clothes for hundreds of years and still remain today.
This is the current "MAX" that our shop can do with that "white shirt".
As for the shape, I just adopted the "CLASSIC SHIRT" from The CLASIK collection.
I spent a lot of time thinking about it as a brand, so I could have thought about the form from scratch, but to be honest, I didn't have any complaints about what was in the collection, so I changed the form, and this time it's that. I wasn't aiming for , and I thought I'd stop doing things that were just superficial, so I didn't change the appearance.
There are two sizes, 46 and 48, just like the collection.
It's a balance that's never overdone, but just the feeling, just a little bit, the shoulder line falls.
Unlike Italy's classic dress shirts, the waist shape is not effective.
However, the arm is sharp, and the outline of the falling arm comes out very neatly.
On the front, there are wrinkles on the body and arms that are similar to beautiful AUBETT drapes.
Also, do you have strong rounded shoulders?
It draws a very smooth shoulder outline.
That's the balance.
What does it look like? However, the appearance is so, but there is a specification that has to be like this.
It's not used in the collection, but I really had to do it this time.
First, the interlining.
Collar and cuffs on the shirt.
"Shinji" is inserted in these two places.
Cuffs with truncated corners.
This inside also contains an "interlining" made of a different fabric than the outer material.
There are three main types of shirt cores.
This is pretty important.
・Temporary fusible core
In the first place, "interlining" means that collars and cuffs are formed by combining two pieces of fabric.
It is built in to maintain the shape on the invisible inner side of the two outer materials.
Among the above three types, fusible interlining is the majority of interlining that exists in the world today.
One side of the interlining is glued, and one side of the two outer fabrics is literally "glued" together with a hot press.
It's not bad at all, but when you touch the collar and cuffs, the finish becomes a little stiff, and after repeated washing at home, partial peeling from the outer material occurs, and only a part of it floats. may come out.
Originally, shirts, especially with respect to the collar, are required to return the collar firmly and neatly, so fusible interlining that is easy to fix is often used.
I think this is definitely the case for business shirts, and even if it's not, it's the most stable in terms of production.
Next, temporary fusible interfacing.
I don't think there are many shirts made with temporary fusible interlining as much as fusible interlining.
This has adhesive on one side of the interlining, similar to fusible interlining.
But it is water soluble. At the time of production, it is attached to one side of the outer material with a high temperature press in the same way as the fusible interlining, but after the product is completed, it is washed once to melt the glue and separate it from the outer material.
In other words, after completion, the collar and cuffs are a total of 3 fabrics: 2 outer fabrics + 1 interlining fabric.
With this, the production is stable, the texture is soft when finished, and partial peeling does not occur even after repeated washing.
The shirts in The CLASIK collection are also made up of "temporary interfacing".
Finally, the "plush core".
As you may have already guessed, this time, I have this "plush core" built in.
This "plush interlining" is a specification that sews three independent sheets without sticking two outer layers and one interlining.
As I said earlier, absolutely, this time, it had to be this.
However, there are only a handful of sewing factories that can produce with this technology.
As mentioned above, "adhesive interlining" and "temporary interlining" are produced by attaching the interlining to either one of the two outer fabrics.
In other words, although there are actually three fabrics, one outer fabric and one interlining fabric are attached together, so the production efficiency is the same as for two fabrics.
It is easy to imagine the difference in level of difficulty between sewing two pieces of fabric for a collar, which requires an accurate pitch even in a curved area, and sewing three separate pieces of fabric. I think I will.
Nowadays, not only in Japan, but also in the world, production using "plush cores" is extremely low, and for the shirt factories that produce them, the hurdles are quite high.
Since a year and a half ago when I pitched this shirt to Mr. Tanaka of The CLASIK, the "plush core" was a non-negotiable condition for me.
As we have already announced, we are using 170 pairs and 330 pairs of fabrics for the shirt titled "SPECIAL LOT".
Even though the left twill is woven as much as possible, it is a very difficult fabric to sew normally.
Of course, if it's just sewing, anyone can do it.
However, if you make it easily, you will end up with something that is not worth talking about as a product.
Sew it "plush". If so, the number of shirt factories in Japan can be counted on one hand.
It's a specification that just requires technology.
However, when it is completed, the owner can experience not only the texture of this fabric, but also the unprecedented ultra-soft texture of the collar and cuffs.
If you are reading this blog, you definitely own a shirt.
However, I'm sure there are people who have never owned or even seen a "plush core" shirt.
Furthermore, the reality is that there are many people who do not know.
That's because it's been seldom told.
Clothes are not just about "looks". "Content" is very important.
I believe that people can feel the splendor of "clothing culture" precisely because they can come into contact with and learn about such things.
And the reason why the interlining is important is that although there are shirts made of ultra-fine count in the world, most of them are in the category of "business shirts" and are always firmly fixed with "adhesive interlining". Only shirts.
What we aimed for this time is the splendor of this level of "100% cotton" fabric, and the "depth" of clothes that exist in the world at any time, such as shirts.
Make the most of it.
That's why I made it with a completely different specification from the world's theory.
To give you an easy-to-understand analogy, the brim of a baseball cap contains a hard plastic core, but it feels like replacing the core with the fabric of the body of the cap. It's so soft.
I can't see in front of me. smile
Shirts made with this "plush core" have very soft collars and cuffs.
In addition, this shirt has been "washed".
Therefore, even if it is washed repeatedly in the future, it will not shrink, and there is no worry that the outer material and the interlining material will peel off.
Furthermore, by washing repeatedly, the outer material and the built-in interlining rub against each other, naturally becoming one, and it swells softly.
It's different from the nuance of a "crisp" shirt, but I believe everyone will be impressed unless you like a very stiff shirt.
And one more thing. Specifications that could never be compromised.
This is a picture from the side of the body to the inside of the sleeve.
In general, most modern shirts are sewn from the bodice to the sleeves in one go.
However, for this shirt, I asked for the "sleeves attached" specification, which is the detail of a good old dress shirt.
That's why the seams on the sides of the sleeves and body are misaligned.
The reason is simple.
Because I wanted to "improve comfort" to the limit level that can be realized.
For this shirt, everything is sewn by sewing machine, so I'm not aiming to be a tailor in Naples, Italy, but I still wanted to offer you a shirt that has been made to the limit of what a sewing machine can do.
Normally, the sides of the body and the sleeves are sewn together in a shirt, but if you do that, the sleeves will fall straight down.
Human arms are pointing forward when they are upright.
That's why I wanted to create a sleeve that could naturally snuggle up to it.
Therefore, the sleeves of this shirt are waved forward.
Nowadays, there are two-sleeves, such as shirt sleeves that are naturally swung forward, and design sleeves that are forced to curve like riders, but it is still classical, not overdone, and natural. I wanted to achieve forward-facing sleeves.
Also, as a result, the movement of the arm is also improved compared to the one with one shot.
Clothes that can be operated as much as possible, not just the appearance when standing.
Wear this shirt for any special occasion.
I want everyone to get it as "work clothes", not the way of thinking.
The sleeves are retrofitted and naturally face forward.
A three-dimensional effect that makes it easy to imagine that a human being can fit inside.
And it's a factory that can sew with a "plush core".
Everywhere sewing techniques are also outstanding.
Perfect edge stitching and a fine pitch that looks like a simple line.
The tip of the collar is beautifully sharp, and the back of the collar is perfectly sewn.
This brand new condition gives an impression of "looseness".
It doesn't belong to anyone yet, so you can feel the "blank space of clothes" that fits and snuggles up to the owner from here.
There is a gusset on the side of the hem.
The gusset is also carefully installed.
As I said earlier, I don't want you to think of this as a dress shirt, I want you to think of it as "work clothes", so it has a "front placket" specification that gives it a British, simple, and casual impression.
It's the front where the buttons are lined up.
The more flat the front is with this placket attached to the back, the more dressy it looks.
That's why, since this is too much fabric, the appearance of the front was made together with The CLASIK, so it left a strong impression.
For loose shirts, on the other hand, I think the placket is not visible in order to maintain balance.
COMOLI's Komori shirt has no placket on the front and has a placket on the back.
and breast pocket. This is also necessary as "work clothes" to put cigarettes and pens and pick up garbage on the roadside. Thoroughly complete.
It's just a shirt for daily use.
However, this pocket is also handled with a firm hand.
The inner side part of the pocket.
Normally, in shirts, the part where the outer material inside the pocket is folded back is cut off, but before sewing the pocket, the edges of the fabric are all overlocked, which is a thoughtful specification.
I didn't specify this part, but The CLASIK took care of it properly.
If the inside is cut off, the thread will come loose every time you use it. There is no such annoyance, so you can rest assured.
A button that emerges from the body of the shirt.
It is a shell button with a thickness that does not feel uncomfortable against the fabric.
This is a sewing factory of this level, so of course it is handmade.
There are no center box pleats or side pleats in the back.
Since it is one-washed, there are light wrinkles that I aimed for.
Inevitably, the quality of the fabric is too amazing, so if it's not washed, it's too much of a dress.
Besides, I would like to recommend that those who receive it should wash it before wearing it anyway, so I wanted it to not shrink when washed at home, but to eliminate the overly stiff feeling of a brand new product.
As you can see, I don't think it's that transparent, so don't worry about that.
There are special items such as "plush core" and "attachment of sleeves", but the overall sewing specification is very high level, and it is composed of fine folded down stitches.
I think I was able to complete all the conditions I wanted for a shirt.
This specification with the quality of this fabric.
This may be the last time you buy a shirt in 2022. LOL
It's not over yet. blog.
This shirt was delivered first as an advance order.
I wore it all the time recently.
The photos have not been processed in any way.
A "shining luster" that cannot be hidden even in an image.
When this photo was taken, it had been washed 6 or 7 times.
But wash everything.
The detergent I use is OLDE HOMESTEADER detergent.
Washing this shirt with this detergent is called a complete set.
Recently, I mostly throw it in the washing machine, but I wash it by hand.
It's not because the fabric is delicate, but it "shines" even in water.
There are things that reflect light from transparent water and shine, but wet fabrics are also dangerous.
Experience this if you wash your hands on a daily basis.
That's why I enjoy it so much that I just wash my hands.
Also, I think some people are worried about dirt because it is white, but if you are particularly concerned about dirt on the collar and cuffs, it is safe to pre-wash with soap such as Utamaro before washing.
If you want to keep it white, wash it as soon as possible after wearing it.
That way, dirt can be removed before sweat and sebum oxidize, and you can maintain a clean state.
A little windy Ver.
I wash it many times and wear it without ironing.
Sometimes, just dehydration is done in the washing machine for 3 minutes, or dried as it is.
It has natural wrinkles from washing, and the potential of GIZA 45's ultra-fine thread, which can only be found here, is demonstrated.
It produced a tremendous amount of shadow compared to the new product.
The "plush core" collar and the soft turn are wonderful.
It draws a nice bulging curve.
The cuffs also bulged out more in the middle than when they were brand new.
Each shell button has a different appearance.
Also, for some reason, the brightness of the buttons became stronger, and the overall sense of unity came out.
This is strange.
I think it's a well-balanced button that won't lose to the strength of the fabric as it will still be glossy after washing.
When you can spend time with just one shirt, it is best to have the sleeves rolled up easily.
The "plush core" makes the roll of the cuffs soft.
Well, as I said earlier, I usually want people to use it heavily without hesitation, but I think it can be used in formal occasions if you wear it with an iron.
I think that you can use it properly according to the scene.
I've been telling you the other day, but it's the best at the moment among the authentic "white collared shirts". for our shop.
Anything higher than this, I think, is left only with hands that use the same fabric.
It's rare that we can make clothes like this, but we haven't really touched on "white shirts" in our store, so I hope people will take this seriously.
Well, the price is the price, but if you think about DJA's No. 1 "plush" and "sleeves", the normal price will be around 130,000 yen.
As I wrote in my previous blog, I am in the Arab oil tycoon class. LOL
However, with The CLASIK and our store, we are making a price that we will never be able to repeat with this quality. Not cheap though. smile
We have already received inquiries about sales, but it will be on sale at stores from 11:00 on Sunday, January 2, 2022.