Paris, January 2023.
I had been talking about the ARCHIVIO JMRibot that I introduced the other day, so I made an appointment and went to the showroom to see it.
However, this was not the case with this brand.
The clothes are all sewn by a female designer herself in a London atelier.
When I asked the person in question about the origin of the brand name seventyfive, "75," he said that the name of the brand could have been anything. lol
What should I do? When I was thinking that, I heard that there was an atelier in London at number 75, so I decided to call it 75 and decided to name it seventyfive. lol
The name gives me a pop image, but I think the products they make are pretty heavy.
I myself had never heard of this brand before, and even if I searched for it on the internet, the name would probably disappear, but I remember very vividly the moment I saw the clothes.
It was the day of my departure from Okayama to Paris.
Flights always have odd times, so I have to leave in the middle of the night.
So I wake up as usual to sleep on the plane, go to the store as usual, and work until the last minute.
At that time, I received an email from a brand I didn't know.
It was just before I left and I was in business trip mode, so I skimmed over everything related to that.
Well, I wasn't expecting much.
However, when I looked at the content, something about it appealed to me.
So we exchanged a few emails.
There was a time difference, and while I was doing that, I moved from Okayama to Haneda Airport.
So, including transfers, the flight took over 20 hours.
So, while my head was still in a daze, I arrived in Paris.
When you arrive, turn on Wi-Fi.
Shortly after I left Japan, I received an email from seventyfive.
As I was looking at it, it appeared that the showroom had just opened, and I had more time than I expected when I arrived at the hotel.
This looks like it could work. and.
So, I sent an email saying, ``I'm leaving now.''
“Please come,” was the reply.
At the Paris Men's Collection exhibition, there are countless clothing brands from all over the world, so you can see an incredible amount of brand collections in Japan.
But amidst all this, there are only a handful of brands that shine.
I think it's a world where there aren't that many "hits" unless you go to see a brand whose name you're familiar with to some extent.
That's why I went to seventyfive, and although it was good, I didn't have high expectations.
But when I went there, I was surprised.
I was like, "Oh, what is this?"
The pitch of the stitching is something you don't see even in Japan these days, making you wonder if it really is an overseas brand.
However, just by looking at the sides of the clothes on the racks, I noticed that they had faces that you wouldn't find in Japan.
“Hey, this is it... Maybe I got a hit on the first try on this business trip...”
I thought. As I listen to various stories, I become very interested.
The roots of the designer are reflected beautifully, and I can feel the originality.
On top of that, I was surprised at the quality of the clothes.
The front looks amazing, but what about the back?
If you're sorry to meet me for the first time, please turn all your clothes inside out. I asked.
The reason behind this is that it is impossible to deceive.
Even when I look at the back, I'm like, ``Here, here, this is...''
Incredible back processing and stunning sewing specifications.
It's not an easy-going specification at all. I felt like I was in great hands.
But I just arrived in Paris after a long flight.
There's a time difference, and you might be extremely tired.
Does this level of detail really exist overseas?
I thought to myself, ``I've always trusted my eyes, but now I'm feeling sleepy and I might be wrong about this feeling.'' I'm so rude to the other person.
So I told them, ``I'm going to stay here and have a lot of appointments, so I might come back on the last day.In that case, I'll contact you again in advance.''
So I was busy with other appointments. Even after one day, two days, or three days have passed, clothes from the brand "seventyfive" keep running through my mind.
Even when I went to a major joint exhibition and looked at the clothes from new brands, they looked very dull thanks to seventyfive.
``Let's try this again.''
When I first saw it, I was tired, but now I've returned to my normal sense of seeing, and I'm sure I'll be able to make an accurate judgment. So I contacted him again.
And then, once again, I came face-to-face with seventyfive's clothes.
I'm so grateful for that.
It was amazing after all.
As I said earlier, originality is built on the quality of clothing that is made with great attention to detail.
And her hard work is reflected in her clothes.
The fact that I take my clothes very seriously is reflected in my clothes.
We would like to introduce this at our store. So, I decided to make a decision on the spot and discuss the details after I returned to Japan.
However, it took a long time from here. lol
When I told the brand what order I wanted, they said, ``I don't think they'll tell you that much. We don't have enough fabric at all.''
No, I'm just expanding the size. It was a similar order.
There was a coat that I liked the most.
fabric _ Leichtfried Loden 540
material _ Mulesing-Free Merino Wool 80%,Alpaca 20%
This was a brand sample of Italian dead stock 600g wool 100 melton.
If I wanted a coat using it, the brand only had enough fabric in stock for two coats.
Even though it comes in 3 sizes, that's impossible. Moreover, if you order your own coat, only one item will be available in the store.
Even though I went overseas, I don't want to order something like that from a guy.
So, from there, an incredibly long interaction with the brand began.
It took two months after we met in Paris to complete the order. lol
We were already in touch like email friends.
However, I think that's what made the coat so special.
Although his strike zone may be narrow because he has a distinctive look. lol
The designer is Janny. But this is probably a common name. By the way, she's a woman.
Both the brand and I said Janny, Janny.
Janny was British, maybe of Chinese descent. perhaps.
I don't think it was St. Martin's, but I majored in fashion at a university in the UK, and from there I went on to do something, and now I make clothes in my own atelier.
The design sources for our clothes are many old Chinese items from 100, 200, or more years ago.
This includes clothes, musical instruments, and ceramics.
In any case, I want to delve into the culture of China, which is my roots and has a long history, and imagine it in my head and build it.
The name "Pipa Coat" comes from the old Chinese musical instrument "pipa."
I created it based on the shape of the instrument and the clothes worn by pipa players. That's what he said.
Stand-up collar, distinctive breastplate, and a slightly larger number of buttons. Very distinctive.
I wear a SILVANA MANETTI scarf around my neck in the winter, and the stand-up collar is just right, and I've always wanted a winter coat with a stand-up collar.
Also, the front part of the breastplate is double-layered, so it looks warm in winter.
I don't want to fasten all the buttons anyway, so I don't care how many buttons there are.
Just by wearing it, the strange buttons make it look like it's no ordinary coat, and that alone is enough.
The button is a water buffalo, and Janny painted it himself.
So, as I mentioned earlier, there was a sample of the Pipa Coat in dead stock Melton, Italy.
However, the size range I wanted didn't come true.
So from this point on, I took some time to choose the fabric.
At first, Janny suggested fabrics from a Japanese weaving shop and various other items.
However, for me, Japanese fabrics are often used by Japanese brands, and I liked the fabrics that I had never worn before.
What's more, even though it's heavy, which is typical of overseas brands, it's not warm at all. That kind of coat is no good.
Not even that. Not like this. Using a translation app, we communicated our wishes in detail, and we continued to communicate, and the designer, Janny, traveled all over Europe.
Then, one month passed and when the second month came around, Janny informed me that he had found the fabric that I wanted and asked me to send some fabric samples to Japan. Ta.
Among them, there was a fabric that made me think, ``This is exactly it.''
The weight, the tightness, the multi-layered colors that are not superficial, the shine of the fabric itself, and the soft and supple yet core texture and warmth.
I selected it and had it made.
The blend is 80% wool and 20% alpaca.
I didn't know about this, but it was quite a prestigious fabric.
But after looking into it, I wonder if it's for tailors? A website for custom tailors will appear.
When I opened the lid, it was from Leichtfried, an Austrian company specializing in loden wool.
It is a Roden wool company that has been around for a long time, dating back to 1884, and it seems that only Roden cloth is still made in the Tyrol region, where it originated.
Loden wool often appears as a classic item in men's wardrobes, like a coat that they want to own someday, but I never expected to take this opportunity to introduce a coat made of loden wool. I didn't think it would happen.
That's because it has the image of being a fabric with a long history.
For some reason, my memories are from my early 20s, and I didn't start wearing loden wool coats until I was in my 40s or 50s. It has such a classic impression that it has imprints on it, and it has a special image among winter coats.
In the first place, Roden wool is a traditional material from the Tyrol mountainous region of Austria and southern Germany, and hunting coats made from it have a history as ``Roden coats.''
Not only is it cold-resistant, but it is also made of strong cotton wool, making it resistant to rain and highly water-repellent, which is why it was used as a hunting coat.
Therefore, when hunting, the dark green color known as ``Loden Green'', which can be camouflaged with the forest to make it less conspicuous, is the standard place for the Loden coat.
I thought the fabric seventyfive suggested this time was really nice both visually and to the touch, and since I don't hunt, the color isn't loden green.
Furthermore, I chose a series called "Classic 540 Loden", which is representative of Reichtfried, because of the quality of the fabric.
This is a loden cross that often uses bristles, but the wool used is soft merino wool that has not been mulesed to select the quality, and is a high-quality line that is blended with alpaca animal hair.
This is a very high grade fabric among Reichtfried's, and the production method is that after shrinking, it is usually machine raised, but this series is the only one that is delicately brushed using "thistle seeds". It's like something.
Well, it seems that even historic weaving shops value this fabric very much.
So, in the end, I ended up using Roden cloth, which is quite reliable, as the outer material.
The fabric is from the "Classic 540 Loden" series, and as the name suggests, the basis weight of the fabric is 540g.
The fabric is heavy enough to give you peace of mind in the winter.
Can you recognize that fabric?
Stitch work at a level higher than that of a dress shirt.
It is equipped with a sewing specification that sews with extremely fine "dots".
When I saw the finished product, I was really impressed.
The sleeves of the coat are dolman sleeves.
Although it is a dolman, there is no sagging in the armpits.
It's a thick fabric, but I think it's well thought out.
Painted buttons are also included on the cuffs.
There are straps on the cuffs.
The back of the strap is also made of outer material.
They're doing a good job of things like this. I was so impressed.
But, it wasn't just the outer material that I requested.
look at this.
Full patchwork lining.
All 100% cotton fabrics are patchworked by Janny.
Not just the body, but also the lining of the sleeves.
This was part of the brand's collection lineup, and there were 100% cotton patchwork clothes.
The patchwork was sewn with amazing stitchwork.
So, this is my first time handling it, and I wanted everyone to experience the greatness of seventyfive that impressed me, and I think the cotton patchwork lining will keep you warm in the winter. LOL
Please do that to the lining of this coat. I asked.
Then, they did all the work on the lining.
I'm so impressed, so grateful.
please look. this.
Also the back of the breastplate.
The border of the back endpaper (outer material) is also perfect.
Also the lining of the sleeves.
The pitch of the seams doesn't go out of order, and everything is done well.
This is a brand that puts so much effort into each piece.
Moreover, it is not factory produced.
Everything is sewn by myself in my atelier in England.
I think each coat has a very rich feel to it.
I'm also looking forward to wearing this coat this winter.
She is 167cm tall, weighs 50kg, and is the smallest size 1.
I think size 1 is fine for people up to about 170cm.
Since it is a coat, there is some space left so that you can wear your innerwear properly.
The length is nice and long, but in Japan most coats are above the knee, so I liked the length below the knee.
Well, some people may be turned off by that. .
Fully tightened Ver.
Although the loden wool has a solid density, it still has a special luster.
I think the fact that the clothes are long and has a lot of volume really shows off their strengths.
I like the color, and when combined with the stand collar, it sometimes looks like a military uniform.
It's not that I particularly like the military.
The outer material has a basis weight of 540g, and the back is also a patchwork of 100% cotton, but it doesn't feel as heavy as I expected.
I feel very safe in the middle of winter.
Although it has a bold appearance, it is a coat where you can feel the great care and delicacy that is typical of a female designer, who sewed it all by herself to such a high level of skill.
The outer fabric is made of loden wool, which is so time-honored that it can be passed down from generation to generation, while the inner fabric has a design that gives a sense of power to anyone who looks at it.
I think we've created a coat that doesn't have many similarities in the world.
And, you know, this coat can be set up. lol
6-Pocket Tapered Trousers
fabric _ Leichtfried Loden 540
material _ Mulesing-Free Merino Wool 80%,Alpaca 20%
These pants have a total of 6 pockets.
The fabric is Reichtfried's high-quality Roden cloth, which is the same as the previous coat.
I really like pants made of coat fabric, so I had them made with that fabric as well.
"Roden cross pants".
As the name suggests, the shape is 6 pockets.
There are two pockets on the left and right fronts, and on the back, there are smart pockets with no seams on the front that utilize switching, making these pants a total of six pockets.
There is no front opening, but the pants have a large waist and are tied with linen cord.
The waist is designed as a continuation of the body, and since most of the seams of the pants are not visible from the front, the pocket details stand out.
You can see the switch at the butt, but the left and right body of these pants are each made up of four large parts.
This gives it a great shape.
It looks surprisingly ordinary within 2 seconds of wearing it, but after 3 seconds, I think you'll notice that it's completely different.
Based on the inseam, the front and back have more parts than regular pants.
I think you can feel this meaning when you wear it.
And the back.
These pants are also fully lined.
It's a gray-based fabric, but it's made of 80% cotton and 20% wool, and it's soft and warm, making it very comfortable.
There is absolutely no tingling sensation. If I had to compare this lining, it would feel like a high-quality cotton flannel.
I believe that this lining, which is placed behind the loden wool fabric, provides exceptional warmth and a tremendous sense of security that will keep your knees in place and keep its shape.
These are pants that allow you to graduate from patches in the middle of winter.
In winter, the colder the better. I don't think there is anyone out there like this, so I'm sure more and more people will rely on these pants.
However, the lining of the Pipa Coat I mentioned earlier was actually this gray checked fabric in the collection sample.
As mentioned earlier, it boasts a comfortable touch and heat retention ability.
But, if it's a coat, the lining may be visible when worn.
The touch of this lining is really nice. It has a nice touch, but I felt it looked too casual as a lining for a coat.
That's why I had it made from the 100% cotton patchwork I mentioned earlier.
Well, with pants, you won't be able to see the checkered fabric unless you take them off, and they offer a different level of comfort than synthetic linings.
For the pants, we placed more importance on the texture and function when worn than on the appearance of the fabric, so we had them produced in a gray checkered cotton wool fabric as per the sample.
The wide hem has been treated so that the lining is not visible from the hem when worn.
In addition, the lining was installed with enough room to prevent the lining from being stretched during operation.
The stitch work on the back of the hem is also perfect.
This is a brand that excels in its careful attention to detail.
As with the previous coat, the size is the smallest, size 1.
Seventyfive is all size 1 for me.
I wear it by folding the large waist in the center of the front, but rather than letting it fall straight to the hem, it is tapered so it is not bulky.
Many of these types of pants are wide-leg pants that extend all the way to the hem.
But this is completely different.
Look, this form.
It's not very normal.
These pants are tied at the waist with a cord, but they have a high back because the waist has a strong curve.
I don't think you can tell much from the photo.
And the butt is compact.
In addition, it's lined, so your butt won't sag, and it's a super secure fit.
I was surprised at the difference, as I think most of these pants tend to make your buttocks get bigger and the fabric collapses under the weight of gravity.
I think the fabric has a strong mood, and even in the middle of winter, I think it will hold up well to your favorite outerwear.
Well, I don't know what kind of outerwear you have.
Loden wool setup.
The coat perfectly reflects my wishes, and the pants are made of a different material than the sample, so these tops and bottoms are exclusive to the world. lol
A super safe set for winter.
material _ Organic Cotton 100%
color _ Printed Olive
And next, this.
Like the previous coat, this vest has the name "Pipa" on it.
This is not a breastplate, but it looks like the front is deeply intertwined.
As for the pattern, it has a rather ``what the heck'' feel to it.
This is made of British corduroy with a pigment print, and the design is said to be an old Chinese amulet pattern.
If you ask me, all of the patterns have motifs that seem to have meaning.
I don't usually handle printed items that much, and I don't usually like them, but this is different.
The base fabric is dense, well-textured corduroy, and the fabric has a strong luster, and I was drawn to the unique mood of the "pigment print" pattern that runs through the brand's axis.
This is so unique. In a pretty good way.
A unique edge line that combines gentle curves and crisp straight lines.
All fabric edges are piped with linen herringbone tape.
Even the sharp corners are treated with crisp piping to create a picture frame.
The all-over pattern has an impact and catches the eye at once, and the extremely detailed clothing design and specifications that make it a reality.
I feel that by combining these two elements, clothing with a simple pattern has an aura that is difficult to convey. This is amazing.
The side of the neck has an angular shape, and he said, ``This was inspired by the outline of old Chinese ceramics.''
"I see," I replied.
It is lined.
It's cotton flannel.
And I liked this fabric too...
material _ Organic Cotton 100%
color _ Printed Olive
This can also be set up.
Pants said to have been worn by Chinese merchants.
The front has a nut button, but the button is exposed.
Belt loops are included, but these pants also have a continuous body and no waist belt.
The left and right pockets are quite unusual specifications.
Normally, when trying to arrange pockets rationally, it is common to use "switching pockets" that utilize switching between the front and back sections.
However, if you do that, the pockets may be placed too close to the side, making it difficult to get your hands into them.
At seventyfive, in order to prevent the wearer from experiencing such problems, we have created a "slit pocket" design that creates a pocket by cutting a notch in the front body.
By adopting this specification, the number of processes increases significantly, so it is something that can be avoided at all costs in Japanese production sites.
But this brand isn't like that.
It's not about production efficiency.
If you put that emphasis on things like that, you won't think about sewing everything yourself.
However, I think those who wear seventyfive clothes will be able to really experience the benefits.
Do you understand?
Patch pocket shape.
It's not a straight shape.
At our store, Araki Yuu's pants often have this patch pocket shape.
A pocket with an old-fashioned curve.
Even in our store, Araki Yuu is the only other company with this patch pocket shape, so perhaps it's a pocket shape unique to designers who sew their own clothes. lol
By the way, even with corduroy, the hands are very precise.
I'm impressed. Really.
A strap made of the same fabric is included at the hem.
Straight if you don't want to tighten the strap.
When you use the strap to tighten it, it feels really good. I definitely prefer that one.
And the back.
This is also fully lined.
Everything is made behind the scenes.
If it's completely lined, you can think of it as hiding the invisible process on the back, but I also saw seventyfive's unlined clothes at a showroom in Paris.
Then, this brand doesn't hide its behind-the-scenes processing at all.
Janny also said that the specifications were carefully thought out, right down to the back side.
You can feel safe about everything.
I actually saw those things and ordered this lineup, so since it's fall and winter, everything should be lined. I asked. That makes it tougher.
Since this is a brand that makes clothes like this, it would be best if they could be used to the fullest.
At this level, if you treat it that way, the clothes will respond accordingly.
Is the stitch work on the waist facing also part of Yamauchi's clothing? The level I think.
The back outseam treatment is also piped.
You're doing it right.
The size is 1.
The pants are also short in length.
However, since it is an overseas brand, it does not mean that it is short, but the length is designed with that style in mind.
Well, I have my habits. lol
However, I think it's really good for people who aren't into this genre.
This all-over pattern set-up has a clear sense of luxury when worn, perhaps because the base fabric is of a high quality or because the stitching is amazing.
It feels like the hem adjustment has been tightened.
Hey? It's not bad, right?
This is because we only have a few patterned clothes in our store.
I'm the kind of person who doesn't often get satisfied with the quality of patterned clothes.
Well, from the looks of it, it's a brand with a lot of originality, but I think those who like it will like the clothes.
The quality will definitely surprise everyone.
Our store has a lineup of 4 types, and I think they all create rich clothing.
If you are interested, please take a look.