As we announced the other day, we will be holding a nonnotte event starting on Saturday, August 10th.
As in previous years, nonnotte designer Sugihara will be present in the store this time as well, so we hope those who come to the store look forward to it.
And ahead of this coming Saturday the 10th, we'd like to introduce you to nonnotte's "collection" and "special orders" that you will all be able to see.
However, in this lineup, we have about 24 variations, including different colors, but I haven't got all of them yet.
We only have six varieties at the moment.
However, thanks to the efforts of Sugihara-san and everyone at the sewing factory, most of the items are expected to be ready by Saturday the 10th.
Ideally, we would like to introduce the entire lineup by the day itself, but that may not be possible.
But I'm going to try my best too.
So today, I'd like to introduce you to the six types of products that have been delivered to me first.
nonnotte
Draping Pullover Turtle Shirt
Material: 100% cotton
color _ Raisin
size_3,4
First, this.
As you can see, it's a pullover type shirt.
The fabric is a plain weave from Kaneta Orimono.
The material is 100% cotton, Indian extra long staple cotton.
Raisin features a strong texture and coloring created from nonnotte Sugihara's vast repertoire of color recipes.
The neck is designed to be high, and I think it has excellent neck dimensions.
As you can see, there are four buttons on the back.
The neck dimension when worn is so precisely tailored that when putting it on or taking it off you have to undo all four buttons and put your head through it, but when you do put it on it looks excellent.
Compared to the width of the body, I think the sleeves have a relatively sharp impression.
The "Draping" series has a structure that makes full use of Sugihara's techniques, so I think that for those seeing it for the first time, it is difficult to immediately understand how the structure works.
Even though it is a shirt, it does not have the standard body, yoke, and sleeves.
I think it is this type of structure that allows you to really feel nonnotte's Sugihara's draping technique (three-dimensional cutting).
Kaneta Orimono's plain weave fabric, called heavy broadcloth, brings out the shapes designed by nonnotte very clearly.
Also, the structural lines of the clothes are clearly visible and stand out very well.
do you understand??
A "horn" protruding from the right back of the garment.
"Horn".
"Horn".
Although the clothes are ready-made, as long as the size is correct, they will create the outline designed by nonnotte.
"Horns" and "drape".
This is a revolution in which the "clothing fabric" separates from the wearer's body and takes shape in the intended place and space.
This clothing construction is the draping technique that nonnotte's Sugihara has developed over more than 10 years.
This technique is not taught in Western clothing education in Japan.
Even though it is taught in the educational field, the vector is slightly different. Sugihara learned it himself through practical experience in a place called Paris, and then further refined and developed it.
So, if you own it, I think you can experience for yourself that the shapes of the clothes are completely different from other brands.
That is the skill of nonnotte's Sugihara.
We create clothes that are extremely unique and cannot be reproduced by other brands.
So that's why I think there's value in it.
Well, Sugihara is not only extremely good at patterns, but also at design drawings, and she has worked in material development and still does, so she is a professional among material professionals, and on top of that, she apparently really loves sewing clothes.
Such a super professional is rare.
Starting from the back yoke, nonnotte aims for the fabric to drape away from the body.
Nonnotte allows you to experience its sculptural beauty whether you look at it from the front, the back, or the side.
I think it's especially important for women to think about how they look when they wear clothes.
Currently, we don't have many female customers at our store, CASANOVA&CO, but from time to time, I recommend nonnotte clothing to the cool ladies who do come in.
After I've explained everything about nonnotte, I say, "Just try it on and see for yourself," and so far everyone has bought one.
That's what I mean.
Seriously, it looks beautiful. Nonnotte. It's amazing. Designer Sugihara is revolutionizing things.
I myself was deeply impressed by the way the clothes were made, and have since done various things with Sugihara.
I always want everyone to know about this clothing production and designers.
So, everyone, please be aware. Actually, I think it would be better for you to know.
Once you get to know this clothing better, your values really do change.
That's the kind of clothes I wear.
nonnotte
Seamless Collar Oversized Shirt
material_COTTON 72%,WOOL 28%
color _ Original Geometric Taupe Top
size_3,4,5
Next, this.
A single-layer shirt jacket shaped like an open collar.
The collar is not a regular open collar, but has a patterned line structure that is continuous from the base collar to the upper collar, and the front opening is gently curved near the collar, designed to allow the collar to open up nicely.
Seamless one piece collar.
Although it is a single collar, it also functions as a stand collar.
The fabric is original from Mitsuboshi Yarn in Oshu.
The composition is 72% cotton and 28% wool.
This fabric is made from two different materials, and is designed to create a complex look by taking advantage of the difference in shrinkage of each material after wearing and washing.
According to Sugihara, the original organization was created by breaking off the "corners" of the Houndstooth organization in the organizational chart and connecting them together.
He named his original organization "Broken Houndstooth."
It is made using a whopping seven different colored threads, so the actual color is quite complex.
Of course, the "Sugihara form" that makes full use of draping is still alive and well.
Here too, you can see the drape of the back starting from the back yoke.
Those who are enthusiastic about the cufflinks and have been following them since the AUBETT era may recognize the design.
The cuffs fit over the back of the hand and gently flare outwards.
This is the cuff construction we like.
It is designed so that when worn and washed, the garment takes on a more complex appearance with more layers to it.
The form of nonnotte clothes is decided from the very beginning, so they will not lose their shape even after washing.
I think it's best to wash and wear it frequently.
Also, Sugihara says that the fabric doesn't wrinkle at all.
So I think it's appropriate for you to wear it without hesitation. This.
nonnotte
Draping No Collar N Jacket
material_WOOL 75%,CASHMERE 25%
color _ Taupe
size_1
Next is this.
The "N Jacket" features "river stitching."
There are a total of five river stitching series in this nonnotte collection, but our store carries four types.
Among them, this has already been delivered.
"N Jacket".
This is the first time this item has been featured for the brand, but Sugihara says he likes collarless jackets.
However, due to the structure of the clothing, he had only ever seen things that raised doubts about it.
This jacket is a reflection of Sugihara's knowledge, experience, and favorite elements that make up nonnotte.
Apparently, the N Jacket took the longest time to drape of any piece in this collection.
Sugihara's ideal is this.
・Slightly dropped shoulder line
・When you put your hands in your pants pockets, the fabric at the cuffs becomes bulky.
- The hem is slightly shorter at the back and longer at the front
- The arm is the correct size.
・The body part is slightly further back than the theory suggests.
We created a jacket with a structure that meets this requirement.
The structural lines of the river stitching are beautiful, but the sleeves are apparently incredibly high.
A typical collarless jacket has a low sleeve head (the top of the sleeve) about the same as a shirt sleeve, and is generally a very casual design.
However, at nonnotte, we decided not to use shoulder pads, but instead designed the sleeves to be high in order to eliminate the casual feel that is typical of no-collar shirts.
And I'm wearing a size 1.
Regular nonnotte comes in three sizes: 3, 4, and 5.
According to the brand, this is a women's size.
However, it is not a ladies' pattern.
The size intended for men is smaller.
I couldn't imagine a large man wearing this river-stitched jacket, and thought it would probably be more suitable for a small man or woman like me, so it is only available in size 1.
As mentioned above, it is designed that fabric will gather at the cuffs when you put your hands in your pants pockets, so the sleeves are long enough for me.
If you fold up the slits at the cuffs, the sleeve length will be well balanced.
The front fits with an incredibly beautiful curve.
The material itself is wool cashmere beaver.
It is made from a relatively thin melton made of 75% wool and 25% cashmere, with a "brushed finish on both sides."
The double-sided brushed fabric is apparently finished very beautifully using "river stitching."
In addition, river stitching does not require lining or interfacing, and its lightweight finish and soft seams are overwhelmingly soft, which is said to be very suitable for creating the three-dimensional shapes of nonnotte.
These clothes are light, warm, and have a beautiful finish and shape, making them the face of nonnotte for autumn and winter.
I think I'll be able to introduce the remaining three types of river stitching tomorrow or the day after.
The pockets are placed on the inside so as not to disrupt the outer shape.
Most river sewing is done in China, but nonnotte's is done in Nara Prefecture.
According to Sugihara, River Sewing Factory in Nara Prefecture is the best in the country.
The beauty of the finish is outstanding, so I think it's a very good product.
nonnotte
2-Tuck Wide Tapered Trousers
Material: 100% wool
color _ Deep Black
size_3,4,5
Next up, this.
Trousers with two front pleats.
First of all, with all nonnotte pants, it is impossible to tell where the wearer's groin begins.
And just like the tops, the design is such that the lines of the legs are not visible, making the wearer look stylish.
There are still many people who believe that pants are difficult to wear with ready-made clothing, but with nonnotte, as mentioned above, as long as you choose the right designed size, you can create the shape you are aiming for.
I think this is extremely amazing.
The fabric is called "Doskin" and is made by Yamaei Woolen Mills in Oshu.
Doeskin, a time-honored fabric in the field of black formal wear, is a variation of "Deer Skin" and is a very noble fabric.
In particular, Yamaei Woolen Mills is originally a weaver specializing in black formal wear, so the quality is superb.
Until now, nonnotte has used a fabric called back satin gabardine from Yamaei Woolen Mills in its collections, which is a double-woven fabric.
Doeskin is a single-ply satin weave, but due to its structure it apparently uses more thread than back satin gabardine.
As we have previously introduced, Yamaei Woolen Mills uses a loom called a "double-opening, low-speed rapier loom," which allows the thread to be packed deep into the weaving chamber, and is characterized by the fact that this allows the full fullness of the material itself to be brought out.
This "double-opening low-speed rapier loom" is a highly specialized loom unique to Yamaei Woolen Mills.
So it's a very beautiful fabric and the deep black gives it a great mood.
These trousers beautifully display the form designed by nonnotte's Sugihara, but the drape of the fabric itself is also at an extremely high level.
This doeskin is woven using SUPER 110'S yarn and 60-count double-ply yarn.
Normally it would need a little more finishing to give it a warmer feel, but Yamada of Yamaei Woolen Textiles developed a transparent finish specifically for nonnotte.
I think the structure of the pants and the texture of the fabric match very well.
nonnotte
Draping Crotch Box Pleats Trousers
Material: 100% wool
color _ Deep Black
size_3,4,5
Next up, this.
Trousers made from the same doeskin as before.
But this is a new brand.
As mentioned above, the structure is such that you cannot see where the feet are.
this.
A close-up of the front crotch area.
The front has a zipper, but what makes it unique is the tucks in the crotch area that create a "large surface."
This is not a design tack, but a new "Draping series" developed to create the shape of nonnotte.
There are no outside seams, and Yamaei Woolen's Doeskin moves beautifully.
These trousers do not expose any of your leg lines and create a beautiful draped look no matter where you look.
The hem is designed in a way that is rarely seen on other pants, as it does not restrict the movement of the fabric and creates a better drape.
I'm sure some of you may recognize it. Lol
This specification is revolutionary. It's really cool.
I think a revolution in pant hem finishing is happening.
nonnotte
Draping No Collar N Jacket
Material: 100% wool
color _ Deep Black
size_3,4,5
And finally, this.
The "N Jacket" that we introduced earlier features river stitching.
The previous item with river stitching has a high body due to the specifications of the river, but this one has high sleeves.
The river stitch type is lightweight and has a soft shape, while the doeskin type has a strong drape.
Therefore, we set the minimum size for ordering to 3.
For this one, the Doeskin setup is best.
Deep black, glossy fabric, and drape.
I think it goes very well with the setup style.
The river stitched N Jacket mentioned earlier has slits at the cuffs, but the doeskin type is an original specification from nonnotte.
The buttons on the cuffs are not visible from the front, but they are placed in an invisible place.
Additionally, the buttonholes have been altered to feature a framed design on the inside of the cuffs.
When I talk to Sugihara, I get the sense that he's always thinking about the various small details of clothing.
And something meaningful.
I always feel that he is a designer with a vast knowledge of clothing construction.
Fabric that bunches up when you put your hands in your pockets.
This structure also goes very well with the Doeskin fabric, allowing the shadows of the fabric to be brought out to their fullest.
There's a lot of new things.
I've only introduced six so far, but please look forward to them.
I'll introduce it again tomorrow.