This clothing uses "Suvin Gold Supreme" which we announced the other day.
We worked on the concept with nonnotte's designer Sugihara, and then asked Kaneta Orimono to design, spin, and weave it.
And this time, I had Fashion Izumi sew it for me.
As I mentioned earlier, this time we would like to show you two types of clothing made from Suvin Gold Supreme fabrics.
"Plain weave" and "twill weave".
We had Kaneta Orimono make 100m of each of the two types of fabric.
In other words, a total of 200m of fabric.
When you think about it this way, it may seem like a large total number, but the width of the fabric woven using Kaneta Orimono's old shuttle loom was narrow, and there was another thing that I thought was ``very important.'' When we realized this, the total number of clothes produced decreased dramatically. lol
First of all, there are 4 types of clothes I made this time.
"Plain weave Clear Heavy Broad -Suvin Gold Supreme-"
・Draping Box Pleats Turtle Pullover
・Two Sides of The Same Tapered Trousers
"Twill Drape Twill -Suvin Gold Supreme-"
・Two Sides of The Same Coat
・Two Sides of The Same Wide Trousers
One of these is named "Two Sides of The Same."
There are 3 out of 4 types.
This means "two sides of the same coin."
The word "expresses that two things are related to each other, but have different aspects or sides."
What I aimed for with "Suvin Gold Supreme"...
By doubling it, we wanted to maintain the shape of the clothes, maintain durability, and achieve an excellent feel against the skin when worn.
There is no lining, and it is made of double-layered "Suvin Gold Supreme" fabric.
Since this is such a precious fabric, I didn't want to line it with anything other than this material.
That's why I use a considerable amount of "Suvin Gold Supreme" for each garment.
This is fun, isn't it?
Because it feels comfortable to wear.
After asking Mr. Ota of Kaneta Orimono to make the fabric, I had many, many, many discussions with Mr. Sugihara of nonnotte, and I realized what Mr. Sugihara thought and what I thought. Mr. Sugihara himself gave shape to what we were aiming for using his wonderful draping technique.
These are clothes that are filled with our soul.
However, from the beginning, I didn't want to wear clothes that anyone could wear.
In other words, I wasn't aiming for plain, tasteless, odorless clothes at all.
There are more than enough clothes like this in this world, and we have them in abundance.
So, although it may not be clothes that everyone can wear, we have created clothes that we put a lot of our heart into.
Let me introduce you to that.
Today, first of all,
From "Plain Weave Clear Heavy Broad -Suvin Gold Supreme-" .
nonnotte × Kaneta Orimono × Fashion Izumi × CASANOVA&CO
<Clear Heavy broad -Suvin Gold Supreme->
Draping Box Pleats Turtle Pullover
material _ Suvin Gold Supreme 100%
color _ Natural
size _ SM,ML
This is a plain weave.
Turtleneck pullover shirt.
Actually, this pullover.
The original prototype has been posted on this blog before.
Probably about two years ago.
When I first saw Mr. Sugihara's draping technique, I had previously mentioned it on this blog.
Mr. Sugihara's technique is to apply the fabric to a mannequin that is a detailed reproduction of the human skeleton, and then use pins and scissors to freely create the form of the clothes from scratch.
The pullover from that time became the prototype for this one.
Of course, it has never been released into the world.
Mr. Sugihara and I reconsidered the new clothes while remembering the origin of the idea.
This is the only top in this series.
Normally people would think of something like a shirt, and I think it's essential to make something like that, but I stopped doing that.
What I think is that Mr. Sugihara's shirts with a fully open front that make use of draping have also appeared inline, and that is sufficient.
The draping of Sugihara's clothes is on full display when it comes to pullover shirts.
There are pullover shirts in the brand's collections, and I've always felt that they were on a pretty high level, and I thought the way the fabric draped during movement was incredibly beautiful.
In addition, I had an image in my head that if I used Suvin Gold Supreme's original color and no dyeing, I would be able to create something extremely good, so I put all my effort into making it.
This pullover is full of distinctive features.
First of all, the front doesn't open.
Then, a button is attached to the neck, and the fabric overflows from the collar.
The one button on the neck can be fastened or unfastened.
The large box pleats on the front provide plenty of collar space, making it easy to put on and take off.
Fashion Izumi's piping on the edge of the neck fabric stands out with its beautiful edge stitching.
The sharp and dignified stitch work and the shadows cast by the shining yet overlapping fabrics.
I think this balance is very good.
Buttons at the neck, closure at the end of the box pleats, and darts near the collarbone with buttons.
This clothing has box pleats, which are deep pleats on the left and right sides, which would normally be called a pullover, but since there is no opening in the front, the balance of the collar is limited.
Therefore, the degree of freedom in expressing the form of the collar is not very high, but by designing it with box pleats, it is possible to increase the amount of fabric, and even store the fabric to create the form of the garment itself. can.
I don't think I've seen many pullover clothes. The amount of this collar.
In nonnotte's inline collection, items with an opening at the back neck have appeared, but this time, in order to make the most of this transcendental structure, we have created a book pleat and an opening at the neck for putting on and taking off. It was appropriate to eliminate it.
By the way, this pullover only has one button on the front, but Mr. Sugihara from nonnotte was wondering whether to add another button on the neck until the very end.
But, I said no to that.
I want to enjoy the way the collar of a pullover made of Suvin Gold Supreme moves unexpectedly around my neck.
The fabric is very good, the stitching is very good, and the shape is created by Mr. Sugihara's draping.
Of course, the best thing for those who have received it is to throw it in the washing machine and have them wear it for the first time, but as they use it, the collar of their neck starts to crumple due to gravity. I think the most beautiful thing is when you fall without being able to resist.
Therefore, the correct answer when it comes to the collar treatment is "don't worry about anything."
Please use it like that.
The other thing is the horizontal darts above the buttons.
This has great meaning.
When wearing a pullover, there is usually a lot of fabric left over from the neck to the chest. I had nowhere to go.
That's not a bad feature of pullover clothing, but I wanted it to fit properly, so Mr. Sugihara added darts in that area.
When I did that, the fabric that normally tends to be left over was neatly stored away.
But those darts also disappeared midway through.
Then, I used the dart holding stitch to insert a loop to fasten the neck button.
It's a detail that I put a lot of thought into.
This is what happens when you open the sleeves.
Do you understand.
An "L-shaped" superstructure is created from the front section to the armpits.
There is no switching on the side of the body, and it has a surprising form.
This creates a spectacular view when worn.
This part is the most complicated sewing part of this pullover.
The fabric is dense and there are many seams that overlap.
Many parts of this pullover were designed using "bag stitching" specifications, but the order in which the underarms were sewn was also important, and it was too complicated, so we had to change the specifications when sewing. I was worried that I would have to do it, but as expected of Fashion Izumi.
It was sewn perfectly according to the original design.
Also, it's not just the underarms, the structure of the sleeves is amazing as well.
Normally, sleeves have a name like "〇〇sleeve", right?
The one that Mr. Sugihara created this time has a diagonal switch, a switch at the elbow, and at first glance it's hard to understand what's going on with the shoulders and sleeves.
Because it has such a structure, the cuffs are set to open on the inside, so please experience the unique specifications of this pullover.
The hem uses fashion Izumi's specialty, ``three-wrap'' shirt sewing, and the cuffs are piped with the same material to match the neck edge.
Can you feel it? ?
The triangular form of this stunning arm.
And I'm sure it has a structure that no one in this world has ever seen before.
The shadow of the fabric when you raise your hand.
That looks dangerous, right?
The real thing is not that bad. Because it's 200 times more amazing.
It feels like it will take on a beautiful shape when worn.
And the back.
As mentioned earlier, you can clearly see the box pleats on the back.
The sewing specifications are basically bag stitching.
I think Fashion Izumi's exquisite stitching really stands out in the plain weave fabric of Suvin Gold Supreme.
Because of the high-density fabric, once it's sewn, it's impossible to re-sew it, and after all, it's constructed using Sugihara's draping techniques.
There are almost no straight spots, and most of the time I sew contradictory curves.
However, the workmanship is clear and shows that each piece was carefully sewn.
Especially, this part of the underarm area where multiple bag stitches overlap is quite difficult.
At a typical sewing factory, we will always receive requests for specification changes.
They sew it with a high quality, so I'm looking forward to seeing it in real life.
The next item to be introduced is the "Suvin Gold Supreme Double Specification".
This is one of the three types named "Two Sides of the Same".
nonnotte × Kaneta Orimono × Fashion Izumi × CASANOVA&CO
<Clear Heavy broad -Suvin Gold Supreme->
Two Sides of The Same Tapered Trousers
material _ Suvin Gold Supreme 100%
color _ Natural
The pullover I mentioned earlier comes in 2 sizes, but the trousers come in 3 sizes.
In order to create a sculpted shape, the waist elastic is made of elastic.The smallest size, S, has a natural waist of 75cm, while the L size has a natural waist of 86cm, and the maximum is 102cm, which is over 1m, so it also has belt loops. Yes, and as for the waist, I think most people can wear it.
My waist is around 60cm, but it has belt loops so I can wear it with a belt.
Well, I'll post more details about the size pitch at a later date.
Regarding these pants, Mr. Sugihara further developed and created them based on the illustration that I drew.
I wanted to combine the mood of the fabric with a unique rounded outline.
If you imagine it simply, it's rounded somewhere between jodhpurs and ski pants.
Mr. Sugihara's form clearly comes out.
As mentioned above, the waist is made of elastic.
By the way, the photo was taken indoors with natural light, but due to the rapidly changing winter season, the color is different from the pullover shown earlier.
These trousers are closer to the real thing than the pullover, so please keep that in mind.
The front has a top button and zipper closure.
By the way, all the buttons are white buffalo buttons.
But buffalo "bone".
In other words, buffalo bones.
The most common horn is called buffalo horn, but this horn is the same color as the bone.
It is "half-baked".
Even the vendor who provided the buttons said it was his first time grilling buffalo bones.
The mood of the buttons was also important, so this time I used half-baked water buffalo bones for all of my clothes.
The zipper is Excella.
And do you understand?
Switching and stitching extending from below the belt loops.
The stitch is "split edge stitch".
I drew this part based on my pattern from the beginning because I wanted to show the sewing technique of Mr. Mizude of Fashion Izumi on the front.
By having a front seam on these pants, I wanted to prevent the knees from coming loose when bending and straightening, and I also wanted to bring out the crisp seams to the front.
Well, I don't have to worry about the knees falling out at all since they are double-layered.
Take a close look at this sewing specification, which divides the seam allowance on the left and right sides of the seam and then holds it down evenly.
These pants also have a great feature from the back.
Square patch pocket on left side only.
Diagonal darts from the waist band to the left and right.
Then, the darts switch to tucks, and even the left patch pocket is tucked, a design that no one has ever seen before.
First of all, I had decided on the square patch pocket on the left side only two years ago.
This hasn't changed even after thinking about it for two years.
At the same time, I wanted to convert the darts on the back of regular pants into tucks.
This has been on my mind for two years. lol
Mr. Sugihara used draping to create not only details but also a meaningful structure.
In the end, I didn't want to give meaning to the details I thought up afterwards...
Mr. Sugihara created darts and tucks by modifying the details that were difficult to achieve due to the structure of the pants, but with ideal meaning that could overcome that barrier.
What do you mean.
As I said earlier, the pants have darts that go from the waist to the buttocks to fit the waist and create a roundness to give volume to the buttocks.
That's why darts are needed in the back, and Mr. Sugihara says that usually they are ``short darts'' that go from the waist to where the butt pockets are.
However, it seems that it is impossible to create a rounded buttocks with just such "short distance darts".
However, in men's clothing, especially pants, there are still strong remnants of the classic past, so many brands try to design pants "within a fixed theory."
Therefore, this time, by switching to a tuck in the middle of the place where only the dart would go, and making it a diagonal "C" shape,
Furthermore, by making it long enough to go beyond the pockets, we succeeded in creating the ideal roundness of the buttocks.
Mr. Sugihara has been doing this since his days at AUBETT.
"Make the drape away from the body."
This technique was used at the butt of the pants, and the detail was beautifully revealed.
The fabric overlaps all the way to the very end of the pocket.
This is a very detailed specification. lol
The right back body also has diagonal darts and tucks.
Even so, the seams are neatly placed at a very fine pitch no matter where you look.
I think the seams follow this architectural structure, which is what makes the pants stand out.
And the hem.
This is the front side.
As mentioned earlier, the front section is stitched from top to bottom.
Have you managed to find some strange details yet? ?
Tuck at the back hem.
As some of you who visit our store may have already mentioned, I love darts.
But I like it even more when it has tucks in places that normally wouldn't. lol
Therefore, for these pants, we designed a tuck at the back hem, and to prevent the tuck, the hem was treated with a facing, and five stitches were added from the top of the facing.
I want people to see the level of sewing that Fashion Izumi has done so that there is a reason for it, and I think it's cool that there are multiple stitches in the same place. lol
However, the tuck at the back hem also has a meaning.
This tuck also doesn't go in a straight line upwards.
There is a diagonal angle.
This "tuck angle" was created by Mr. Sugihara of nonnotte, during the draping design stage, looking for a connecting point with the "darts + tuck" around the waist and placing the tuck exactly at that angle. .
By doing so, it will have an amazing shape whether you look at it from the front or the back.
Wouldn't it be too unnatural if it had a sharp taper from the big, rounded area to the hem, like jodhpur pants?
The drape didn't have a natural volume and was separated from the body, and it perfectly formed the form I requested.
As expected. Mr. Sugihara.
And the back.
As I said earlier, as the name "Two Sides of The Same Tapered Trousers" suggests, both the front and back are "Suvin Gold Supreme double layered".
For these pants, by layering two layers of high-density Suvin Gold Supreme, the fabric on the back perfectly complements the shape.
I think you can feel the weight of the real thing, and it's not just the prosthetics, it gives the impression that it's quite tough to wear.
Also, since it's double-layered, I don't think it'll be see-through even if you wear fancy pants (underwear).
The lining side also tucks properly.
The back of the hem has tuck and facing stitching.
The Clear Heavy Broad plain weave series is, as Mr. Ota of Kaneta Orimono says,
I think you will be able to feel the quality of the raw materials and the quality of the weave, using the same material as "Suvin Gold Supreme."
I think anyone can understand the truth of these words when they see the feel and luster of the real thing.
I think we have created the perfect clothes for the "undyed Suvin Gold Supreme" look.
Another "twill weave".
"Drape Twill -Suvin Gold Supreme-"
I'll introduce more about it later.
Sales will start in stores from Saturday, December 9th.
We will let you know more details about this as well.